Rockfax Description
10m. The centre of the face has a polished and perplexing start. It is pleasant above though the gear does not inspire. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Twelve fine routes in the lower grades at the Roaches, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS.

bsparky 14/May Lead O/S
with Claire Franklin, Caroline Barker, Daniel Peters
jakenichol 08/May Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr Lead O/S
Steve Clegg 22/Mar Lead O/S
with Clare
Robin Nichols 14/Feb Solo O/S
with Roger
rockman 15/Sep/15 Lead O/S
timcedwards 15/Sep/15 2nd
Fiskavaig 12/Jul/15 Lead

Nice climb, would be nicer if you could get gear in to protect first few moves.

with Bill
Hidden 21/Jun/15 2nd O/S
superturbo 30/May/15 Solo
Hidden 18/Apr/15 2nd
rob 528 ??/2015 Solo O/S
s1362083 30/Nov/14 Lead
Andy Hudson 18/Oct/14 TR
with Adrian Carter
Hidden ?/Oct/14 -
Finn Curry 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Tim Akast
Stephen Halliday 27/Sep/14 Lead
with John Wilshaw
Hidden 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
John Holden 13/Sep/14 2nd
with Chris Lovewell, Helen Costelloe
SGD 24/Aug/14 Solo
Dale ?/Aug/14 Solo
dpiddock 22/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Ceara 01/Jun/14 Lead
with Andrew
Andrew Abraham 01/Jun/14 2nd
with Ceara
JonBlundell 21/May/14 2nd dog
with Pat Buntam
Jayster329 21/May/14 Lead O/S

fairly straight forward climb but hardly anywhere for gear placement making it a bit scarier.

Jayster329 21/May/14 2nd O/S

feels so much easier seconding up after, much more comfortable.

iskra2000 05/May/14 Lead
with Clare Downie
simeclimb68 04/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/14 2nd
stevo smith 04/May/14 Lead O/S
with Chris Britton
markK6 03/May/14 Lead O/S

I almost claimed a Solo ascent on this one having placed my only gear about 1.5 metres from the ground. Perhaps I should have hunted further afield for runner placements. Start not so polished for a Limestone climber

with Simon
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd O/S
SHONAJONES 03/May/14 Lead O/S

Not much gear - but good gear

Hidden 03/May/14 2nd O/S
dale.reynolds 13/Apr/14 TR O/S
with Birmingham County Scouts Mountaineering Unit
karlb 12/Apr/14 2nd
Smeghead 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Karl bamford
Matt_C9716 12/Mar/14 Lead O/S
chikadi 15/Dec/13 Lead O/S

windy, damp ascent but nice hvd (in guidebook)

philhilo 26/Oct/13 Solo O/S

In approach shoes, in the wet, in a gale....maybe not so wise.

Hidden 05/Oct/13 Solo O/S
benny_m 05/Oct/13 2nd rpt
with Su
Hidden 05/Oct/13 Lead
Hidden 05/Oct/13 Lead rpt
bullybones 28/Sep/13 Sent
Hidden 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 14/Aug/13 Lead

Easy but not a lot of gear. Not sure why this is recommended in the BMC guide as a suitable beginners lead as it's pretty much a solo until just before the top (the gear scarred flake on the right at half height is loose, so don't rely on it, peeps)

DanChad 14/Aug/13 2nd O/S
kermit_uk 29/Jun/13 2nd O/S
RM199 16/Jun/13 Solo O/S
csh.1000 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Solo O/S
MikeDowsett 09/Jun/13 Lead
with Colin Harper, Robin Stiffin
Laramadness 19/May/13 Solo O/S
kez1 07/May/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead
Hidden 01/May/13 Lead O/S
Paul Hy 13/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with Dave S, Umer, Dave W
catt 13/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Fairly pish and basically a solo.

with Amy
mrs catt 13/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Iain
mevanssmith 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Paul Hy 06/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with Umer
PeteWilson 27/Feb/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 17/Feb/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Nov/12 Solo O/S
Stone Muppet 20/Oct/12 Solo
riff156 14/Oct/12 Solo O/S
lukebowman551 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Craig Shelley, Duncan Bourne
Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
carl_123 07/Sep/12 Solo O/S
augustus trout 14/Aug/12 -

self belay practice

davemcummings 05/Aug/12 Lead
LiniebarClimb 05/Aug/12 2nd
markblair 25/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Nice warm up.

with Alison Dixon
rockmaverick ?/Jul/12 Lead
with Ala 'the Cat' Piatkowska
Ala the 'cat' Piatkowska ?/Jul/12 Lead dnf
with Stuart
Ala the 'cat' Piatkowska ?/Jul/12 2nd
with Stuart
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/12 Solo O/S
Rhythm24 20/May/12 Solo O/S
gingerwolf 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S
lizzyb 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Very polished start could be off putting to a Vdiff climber (not kidding when it says perplexing), but much nicer above where less feet have clearly climbed and worth continuing to!

becoming-stranger 17/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Beth Mc
beth_may 17/Mar/12 2nd
mtempest 11/Mar/12 Solo
PAJames ??/2012 -
Jonny M 04/Dec/11 Lead O/S
jaimer 04/Dec/11 2nd
mark20 06/Nov/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Nov/11 Solo
Derek Furze 28/Oct/11 Solo
tebs 26/Oct/11 Solo O/S
sgl 26/Oct/11 Solo O/S
ImogenJones 16/Oct/11 -
lewismansell 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S
scotty h 28/Sep/11 2nd rpt

in trainers

with Lewis Mansell
Double Knee Bar 18/Sep/11 Lead O/S
valentinesbabe 04/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Tithe Technique 04/Sep/11 Lead O/S
katyc 21/Aug/11 2nd
eeonz 20/Aug/11 2nd
tompilgrem 19/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Nick/D
Boran 16/Aug/11 2nd
kirsty52 14/Aug/11 TR

fell off the start but did it. Was cold hands and rock so not nice as there are no really good holds below 2 metres and I'm a bit short! (my excuse)

with christine, Steve, Mike
Hidden 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Paul Hy 24/Jul/11 Lead rpt

No gear until near the top.

with Ian
mes32 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
swoollock 09/Jul/11 2nd
cragant 09/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 02/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead
Graeme Hammond 26/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Becky E
Becky E 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Bold but pleasant.

hazeysunshine 23/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with GT
terri mc 04/Jun/11 Lead β
with Nicola Pledger, Andy Shardlow
Paul Hy 21/May/11 2nd O/S
with Tony
OMSKB 17/May/11 Lead
with Richard Winfield
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Sam Simpson 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
alias dave 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Sam.EB
Killianmurphy 02/Apr/11 Solo O/S
antonymcphillips ?/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Kingsjester 14/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Didnt place any gear until 3/4 of the way up as there wasnt really any.

Paul C F 14/Nov/10 2nd


with GILL
matthomas79 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
benny_m 10/Oct/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Oct/10 2nd rpt
Mark Salter 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
DanT 07/Aug/10 Solo rpt
Hidden 02/Aug/10 2nd
Alex Winter 23/Jul/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/10 2nd O/S
eonuk 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Another climb with no useful gear till right near top. Easy climbing though.

with Wayne
staceyjg 12/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Very little protection on this for a VD

with Emma, Katie, Chris Gardner
kiwi boy 12/Jun/10 2nd O/S

No gear until the 1 metre from top

with keith pascoe, Richard Fox
Jim Malo 31/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
fatbuoybazza 31/May/10 2nd O/S
tomboyle 03/May/10 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead
Stuart William 18/Apr/10 Solo rpt
drcorbasisgod 18/Apr/10 Solo O/S
scotty h 18/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with Ceara Mallaghan
minirollsrule 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S

my first lead, placed 3 bits of gear, one of which was bad

John Foster 15/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Isobel
cooper leek 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S

great vd. deserves its star.

with dawn
Alex Thompson 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Pleasant little climb after the trick start.

with Danish Kathryn, Danish Anne, Liz, Mayeul
CharlieMack 11/Mar/10 Solo O/S
Rob Davies 07/Mar/10 Solo
Stuart William 07/Feb/10 Lead O/S

Sod all gear placements, didn't trust most of what i did place

scotty h 07/Feb/10 2nd β
Rich Kay ??/2010 2nd
Hidden 23/Oct/09 Solo O/S
Dux 23/Oct/09 Solo
lukebowman551 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Jeff Escosio
Ian Archer 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Alan Hardie
Rick Ashton 06/Sep/09 Lead
with Richard McElligot
RichardMc 06/Sep/09 2nd
with Richard Ashton
Russell Lovett 23/Aug/09 Solo O/S
with alan taylor
AlastairB 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Nice little problem start. Pro is a bit thin for the grade - small cams are very useful.

fordie77 22/Aug/09 2nd
JamesBurton 08/Aug/09 Lead
Darrell Read 08/Aug/09 2nd
Stevie_R 07/Aug/09 Lead

First lead after five year break from climbing

with dan brown
RCrockford 02/Aug/09 2nd
with Charlie
SGD 02/Aug/09 Lead
Mike_Hayes 02/Aug/09 Solo
Tanya Savage 05/Jul/09 Lead

gibbering start with dodgy gear, pretty much over in the first 5 metres.

Neil Pacey 05/Jul/09 2nd O/S
bavarianGaz 13/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Andy and Dan
A Downing 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Gaz
Hidden 30/May/09 2nd
Hidden ?/May/09 Lead
Hidden 10/Apr/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/09 Solo O/S
Dan 85 29/Mar/09 Solo O/S
with Mark
Hidden 29/Mar/09 Solo O/S
Martyn ??/2009 TR
Hidden 30/Dec/08 2nd O/S
benny_m 30/Dec/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Dec/08 Lead O/S
donkster 28/Dec/08 2nd rpt
with DaveNW
ASchwirtz 18/Oct/08 2nd O/S
sarah87 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Chris Jones
asmith37 12/Oct/08 TR
Hidden 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/08 Lead
tanssop 30/Jul/08 Lead β
with Wayne
Yanis Nayu 30/Jul/08 Lead dnf

Lack of gear and sandbag grade caused a humiliating down-climb!

with Phil Lucas
Yanis Nayu 30/Jul/08 2nd β
with Phil Lucas
Hidden 29/Jul/08 Lead
Rob Messenger 26/Jul/08 2nd

Was touch and go and was no use belaying as the lead couldnt find anywhere to place gear. was more or less spotting to make sure i could step to the side if he fell off ha-ha

with Rob Stordy
dashitboarder 15/Jun/08 Solo
with Dad
john lynch 13/May/08 Solo
with rich armour, mike lynch
DanT 10/May/08 Solo rpt
Hidden 08/May/08 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/May/08 Solo O/S
fizzychewitt 26/Apr/08 Lead
with Kat
michael burrows 26/Apr/08 Lead
PaulGreenhead 19/Apr/08 Solo
with Kirsty
Kirsty 19/Apr/08 2nd
goi.ashmore 09/Mar/08 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/08 2nd O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
stordys ??/2008 -
naughtybadboy 07/Oct/07 Lead
rachelwheatcroft 30/Sep/07 Lead
with Jamie
TGreen 04/Sep/07 Solo O/S
donkster ?/Sep/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S
bobpilgrem 05/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Bob/Nic
John-Luke Casey 28/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Josh Jones
ungracefulathlete 17/Apr/07 Lead dnf

No protection at all. had to retreat sadly. could have soloed in the end.

with Ben
Mike W 13/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Charles 13/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Mike WhiteHurst
The Mountain Goat 11/Mar/07 Solo O/S
Alfredo ?/Mar/07 Lead
with Jen
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
LP ??/2007 -
adam carless 17/Sep/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/06 Lead
Hidden 15/Sep/06 2nd
eonuk 26/Aug/06 Solo
Stuart S 05/Aug/06 Solo O/S

Went to do Safety Net, but too hot and sweaty again...

gibbo38 25/Jun/06 Lead
with brian
Hidden 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/06 Lead
DanT 17/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Flick Towns
Owen W-G 01/Jun/06 Solo O/S
david the bear 20/May/06 2nd
with Matt S
howlingbaboon ?/May/06 Lead O/S
with Ruthy
mmalbon ??/2006 Lead

May as well have solo'd it, the gear just got in the way and I got no real protection from it.

with Mick, Simon and James
John Eley ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
ArnaudG ?/Jul/05 Solo
Si dH 22/May/05 Lead O/S
with James
Rachael Barlow 01/May/05 2nd
with Pete Robins
Stig 24/Apr/05 2nd O/S
with Jonathan + Louise Teale
Rampikino 06/Apr/05 Lead
with Bob Brown
Neil Henson ??/2005 Lead O/S

Easy climbing but very little protection and it felt like I was about to get blown off by the wind.

Carl Smethurst 04/Sep/04 Solo O/S
jimshrimp 15/May/04 Lead O/S
mol ?/Apr/04 Solo
Jim Brooke ?/Apr/04 Solo O/S
r0b 28/Mar/04 Solo O/S
nige pacer 01/Nov/03 Solo O/S
Chris Ellis 27/Sep/03 Lead
with Nige Shaw
Hidden 03/Aug/03 Solo
Hidden 20/Jul/03 2nd O/S
DerwentDiluted 04/Jun/03 Solo
Hidden 20/Apr/03 Solo
Hidden 05/Apr/03 Solo
mark s ??/2003 Solo
Hidden ??/2003 Solo
Neil Curtis 21/Sep/02 2nd
with James Tyson
Gus 28/Jun/02 Lead
Sankey 29/Mar/02 2nd
with Andy E
Hammy 27/Mar/02 Solo
Gustav ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Adam bro
Stevie_R 22/Aug/01 2nd O/S
with rod
kato'sdad 08/Aug/00 Solo
RobSimmo 08/Aug/00 Solo
Hidden ?/May/00 Solo
alan moore ??/2000 -
chris sm 14/Jul/99 Solo
craig h 08/Oct/98 Solo O/S
with Jamie Lillieman
FrankW 29/Aug/98 Solo O/S
with Joe
Hidden 15/Aug/98 Solo
FrankW ?/Aug/98 Solo
EddieA 23/May/98 Solo O/S
charlesmfrench 24/May/97 Solo O/S
with Ann Fooks, Dave Fooks
craig h 15/Feb/97 Solo O/S
Adrian Daniels 18/Jun/95 2nd
with Dave Nicholson
nai ??/1995 Solo
smudge ??/1993 Solo O/S
Andy Say 20/Aug/91 Solo
andrew300169 ??/1990 -
Iain Thow 17/May/89 Solo
Roget ??/1989 Solo O/S
with jim
tapley 18/Sep/87 Solo
bullybones ??/1987 -
Martin Bennett 14/Jun/85 Solo
Mark Kemball 13/Mar/84 Solo
Hidden ?/Aug/83 Lead
Nigel Bond 09/Jan/83 Solo
babymoac 29/May/78 -
rogerskews ??/1974 Solo
mikej 25/Apr/71 Lead
with E
Rog Wilko ?/Mar/71 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
mikej 24/Jun/70 Solo
with Nick Taylor, Rosemary Lewis, Pete Williams, Malcolm Eldridge
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Lukejoshmueller, AlexCib, Hidden, reckless_rat, Hidden, hapymike, Kamikaze Badger
High HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 39
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set