Staffordshire > Roaches Skyline >
 
Lighthouse* VD

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Ralph's Mantelshelves >>
[Lighthouse, Roaches, 2 kb]10m. The centre of the face has a polished and perplexing start. It is pleasant above though the gear does not inspire. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Twelve fine routes in the lower grades at the Roaches, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS.

Photo: Lighthouse, Roaches © caradoc
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 270 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

John Holden - 2nd - 13/Sep/14 with Chris Lovewell, Helen Costelloe

SGD - Solo - 24/Aug/14 with Vicky Holmes

Dale - Solo - Aug/14

dpiddock - Solo O/S - 22/Jun/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/14

Ceara - Lead - 01/Jun/14 with Andrew

JonBlundell - 2nd dog - 21/May/14 with Pat Buntam

fairly straight forward climb but hardly anywhere for gear placement making it a bit scarier.
Jayster329 - Lead O/S - 21/May/14 with Dan Heyse

feels so much easier seconding up after, much more comfortable.
Jayster329 - 2nd O/S - 21/May/14 with Dan Heyse

iskra2000 - Lead - 05/May/14 with Clare Downie

simeclimb68 - Lead O/S - 04/May/14 with Pwdr (Paul)

Hidden - 2nd - 04/May/14

stevo smith - Lead O/S - 04/May/14 with Chris Britton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/May/14

Not much gear - but good gear
SHONAJONES - Lead O/S - 03/May/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/May/14

Hidden - TR O/S - 13/Apr/14

karlb - 2nd - 12/Apr/14 with Darren jones

Matt_C9716 - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/14

windy, damp ascent but nice hvd (in guidebook)
chikadi - Lead O/S - 15/Dec/13

In approach shoes, in the wet, in a gale....maybe not so wise.
philhilo - Solo O/S - 26/Oct/13

Hidden - Solo O/S - 05/Oct/13

benny_m - 2nd rpt - 05/Oct/13 with Su

Hidden - Lead - 05/Oct/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 05/Oct/13

bullybones - Sent - 28/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/13

Easy but not a lot of gear. Not sure why this is recommended in the BMC guide as a suitable beginners lead as it's pretty much a solo until just before the top (the gear scarred flake on the right at half height is loose, so don't rely on it, peeps)
Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Lead - 14/Aug/13 with Dan Chadfield

DanChad - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/13 with Chris Murray

kermit_uk - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/13 with Michelle

Hidden - Solo O/S - 16/Jun/13

csh.1000 - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Mike

Jones_d - Solo O/S - 09/Jun/13

MikeDowsett - Lead - 09/Jun/13 with Colin Harper, Robin Stiffin

Laramadness - Solo O/S - 19/May/13

kez1 - Solo O/S - 07/May/13

Hidden - Lead - 06/May/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/13

Paul Hy - Lead rpt - 13/Apr/13 with Dave S, Umer, Dave W

Fairly pish and basically a solo.
catt - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/13 with Amy

mrs catt - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/13 with Iain

mevanssmith - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/13

Paul Hy - Lead rpt - 06/Apr/13 with Umer

PeteWilson - Solo O/S - 27/Feb/13

Hidden - Solo O/S - 17/Feb/13

Hidden - Solo O/S - 10/Nov/12

Stone Muppet - Solo - 20/Oct/12

riff156 - Solo O/S - 14/Oct/12

lukebowman551 - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Craig Shelley, Duncan Bourne

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12

carl_123 - Solo O/S - 07/Sep/12

self belay practice
augustus trout - 14/Aug/12

davemcummings - Lead - 05/Aug/12 with Caroline Barker

LiniebarClimb - 2nd - 05/Aug/12 with davemcummings

Nice warm up.
markblair - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/12 with Alison Dixon

rockmaverick - Lead - Jul/12 with Ala 'the Cat' Piatkowska

Ala the 'cat' Piatkowska - Lead dnf - Jul/12 with Stuart

Ala the 'cat' Piatkowska - 2nd - Jul/12 with Stuart

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12

Hidden - Solo O/S - 20/May/12

Rhythm24 - Solo O/S - 20/May/12

gingerwolf - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/12

Very polished start could be off putting to a Vdiff climber (not kidding when it says perplexing), but much nicer above where less feet have clearly climbed and worth continuing to!
lizzyb - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/12 with Matt Chinner

becoming-stranger - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/12 with Beth Mc

beth_may - 2nd - 17/Mar/12 with Will Pope

Hidden - Solo - 11/Mar/12

PAJames - 2012

Jonny M - Lead O/S - 04/Dec/11 with Jaime Reed

jaimer - 2nd - 04/Dec/11 with Jon Moulding

mark20 - Solo O/S - 06/Nov/11

Hidden - Solo - 06/Nov/11

Derek Furze - Solo - 28/Oct/11

Hidden - Solo O/S - 26/Oct/11

sgl - Solo O/S - 26/Oct/11

ImogenJones - 16/Oct/11 with David Parkinson

lewismansell - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/11

in trainers
scotty h - 2nd rpt - 28/Sep/11 with Lewis Mansell

Double Knee Bar - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/11

valentinesbabe - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/11 with Kevin Tithe

Tithe Technique - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/11 with Angela Paul

eeonz - 2nd - 20/Aug/11

tompilgrem - 2nd O/S - 19/Aug/11 with Nick/D

Boran - 2nd - 16/Aug/11

fell off the start but did it. Was cold hands and rock so not nice as there are no really good holds below 2 metres and I'm a bit short! (my excuse)
kirsty52 - TR - 14/Aug/11 with christine, Steve, Mike

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/11

No gear until near the top.
Paul Hy - Lead rpt - 24/Jul/11 with Ian

mes32 - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11

swoollock - 2nd - 09/Jul/11

cragant - Lead - 09/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jul/11

Graeme Hammond - 2nd O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Becky E

Bold but pleasant.
Becky E - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Graeme Hammond

hazeysunshine - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/11 with GT

terri mc - Lead β - 04/Jun/11 with Nicola Pledger, Andy Shardlow

Paul Hy - 2nd O/S - 21/May/11 with Tony

OMSKB - Lead - 17/May/11 with Richard Winfield

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11

Sam Simpson - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Christian Turford

alias dave - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Sam.EB

Killianmurphy - Solo O/S - 02/Apr/11

antonymcphillips - 2nd - Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/11

Didnt place any gear until 3/4 of the way up as there wasnt really any.
Kingsjester - Lead O/S - 14/Nov/10 with Paul Feltham

Paul C F - 2nd - 14/Nov/10 with Adele Greenway

MANAGED TO GET A SMALL CAM IN AT THE FIRST LEDGE BUT THEN NOTHING TILL THE TOP
CHASETRAILBUILDA - Lead - 31/Oct/10 with GILL

matthomas79 - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/10

benny_m - Lead rpt - 10/Oct/10 with Ali Brown

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 10/Oct/10

Mark Salter - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/10 with Gareth Lewis

DanT - Solo rpt - 07/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Aug/10

Alex Winter - Solo O/S - 23/Jul/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/10

Another climb with no useful gear till right near top. Easy climbing though.
eonuk - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/10 with Wayne

Very little protection on this for a VD
staceyjg - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Emma, Katie, Chris Gardner

No gear until the 1 metre from top
kiwi boy - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with keith pascoe, Richard Fox

Jim Malo - 2nd O/S - 31/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/10

fatbuoybazza - 2nd O/S - 31/May/10 with liv_the_div

tomboyle - Solo O/S - 03/May/10

Hidden - Lead - May/10

Stuart William - Solo rpt - 18/Apr/10

drcorbasisgod - Solo O/S - 18/Apr/10

scotty h - Lead rpt - 18/Apr/10 with Ceara Mallaghan

my first lead, placed 3 bits of gear, one of which was bad
minirollsrule - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10

John Foster - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/10 with Isobel

great vd. deserves its star.
cooper leek - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/10 with dawn

Pleasant little climb after the trick start.
Alex Thompson - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/10 with Danish Kathryn, Danish Anne, Liz, Mayeul

CharlieMack - Solo O/S - 11/Mar/10 with Rik Battye

Sod all gear placements, didn't trust most of what i did place
Stuart William - Lead O/S - 07/Feb/10

scotty h - 2nd β - 07/Feb/10 with Stu Ivory

Templeton Adams - 2nd - 2010 with Darren H

Hidden - Solo O/S - 23/Oct/09

Dux - Solo - 23/Oct/09 with Andy Smith

lukebowman551 - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Jeff Escosio

Ian Archer - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Alan Hardie

Rick Ashton - Lead - 06/Sep/09 with Richard McElligot

RichardMc - 2nd - 06/Sep/09 with Richard Ashton

Russell Lovett - Solo O/S - 23/Aug/09 with alan taylor

Nice little problem start. Pro is a bit thin for the grade - small cams are very useful.
AlastairB - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09 with Sarah Ford

fordie77 - 2nd - 22/Aug/09 with A Brookes

JamesBurton - Lead - 08/Aug/09 with Darrell Read

Darrell Read - 2nd - 08/Aug/09 with James Burton

First lead after five year break from climbing
Stevie_R - Lead - 07/Aug/09 with dan brown

RCrockford - 2nd - 02/Aug/09 with Charlie

SGD - Lead - 02/Aug/09 with Vicky Holmes

wolverine - Solo - 02/Aug/09

gibbering start with dodgy gear, pretty much over in the first 5 metres.
Tanya Savage - Lead - 05/Jul/09 with Neil Pacey

Neil Pacey - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/09 with Tanya Savage

bavarianGaz - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Andy and Dan

A Downing - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Gaz

Hidden - 2nd - 30/May/09

Hidden - Lead - May/09

Hidden - Solo O/S - 10/Apr/09

Hidden - Solo O/S - 01/Apr/09

Dan 85 - Solo O/S - 29/Mar/09 with Mark

Hidden - Solo O/S - 29/Mar/09

Martyn - TR - 2009

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Dec/08

benny_m - Lead O/S - 30/Dec/08 with Ali Brown

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Dec/08

donkster - 2nd rpt - 28/Dec/08 with DaveNW

ASchwirtz - 2nd O/S - 18/Oct/08 with Claire Duffield

sarah87 - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/08 with Chris Jones

asmith37 - TR - 12/Oct/08 with Dave Rose

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead - 06/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead β - 30/Jul/08

Lack of gear and sandbag grade caused a humiliating down-climb!
Malcolm Tucker's Sweary Aunt - Lead dnf - 30/Jul/08 with Phil Lucas

Malcolm Tucker's Sweary Aunt - 2nd β - 30/Jul/08 with Phil Lucas

Hidden - Lead - 29/Jul/08

Was touch and go and was no use belaying as the lead couldnt find anywhere to place gear. was more or less spotting to make sure i could step to the side if he fell off ha-ha
Rob Messenger - 2nd - 26/Jul/08 with Rob Stordy

dashitboarder - Solo - 15/Jun/08 with Dad

john lynch - Solo - 13/May/08 with rich armour, mike lynch

DanT - Solo rpt - 10/May/08 with Ian Silvester

Hidden - Solo O/S - 08/May/08

Hidden - Solo O/S - May/08

fizzychewitt - Lead - 26/Apr/08 with Kat

michael burrows - Lead - 26/Apr/08 with liz hewitt

PaulGreenhead - Solo - 19/Apr/08 with Kirsty

Kirsty - 2nd - 19/Apr/08 with PaulGreenhead

goi.ashmore - Solo O/S - 09/Mar/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Mar/08

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

stordys - 2008

naughtybadboy - Lead - 07/Oct/07

rachelwheatcroft - Lead - 30/Sep/07 with Jamie

TGreen - Solo O/S - 04/Sep/07

donkster - Solo O/S - Sep/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/07

bobpilgrem - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/07 with Bob/Nic

John-Luke Casey - 2nd O/S - 28/Apr/07 with Josh Jones

No protection at all. had to retreat sadly. could have soloed in the end.
ungracefulathlete - Lead dnf - 17/Apr/07 with Ben

Mike W - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/07

Charles - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/07 with Mike WhiteHurst

The Mountain Goat - Solo O/S - 11/Mar/07

Alfredo - Lead - Mar/07 with Jen

Hidden - Lead - 2007

LP - 2007

adam carless - Solo O/S - 17/Sep/06

Hidden - Lead - 15/Sep/06

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Sep/06

eonuk - Solo - 26/Aug/06

Went to do Safety Net, but too hot and sweaty again...
Stuart S - Solo O/S - 05/Aug/06 with Amanda Lyons

gibbo38 - Lead - 25/Jun/06 with brian

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/06

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jun/06

DanT - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/06 with Flick Towns

Owen W-G - Solo O/S - 01/Jun/06

david the bear - 2nd - 20/May/06 with Matt S

howlingbaboon - Lead O/S - May/06 with Ruthy

May as well have solo'd it, the gear just got in the way and I got no real protection from it.
mmalbon - Lead - 2006 with Mick, Simon and James

John Eley - Lead O/S - Aug/05

ArnaudG - Solo - Jul/05

Si dH - Lead O/S - 22/May/05 with James

Rachael Barlow - 2nd - 01/May/05 with Pete Robins

Stig - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/05 with Jonathan + Louise Teale

Rampikino - Lead - 06/Apr/05 with Bob Brown

Easy climbing but very little protection and it felt like I was about to get blown off by the wind.
Neil Henson - Lead O/S - 2005

Carl Smethurst - Solo O/S - 04/Sep/04

mol - Solo - Apr/04

Jim Brooke - Solo O/S - Apr/04

r0b - Solo O/S - 28/Mar/04

nige pacer - Solo O/S - 01/Nov/03

Chris Ellis - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/03 with Nige Shaw

Hidden - Solo - 03/Aug/03

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/03

DerwentDiluted - Solo - 04/Jun/03

Hidden - Solo - 05/Apr/03

mark s - Solo - 2003

Hidden - Solo - 2003

Neil Curtis - 2nd - 21/Sep/02 with James Tyson

Sankey - 2nd - 29/Mar/02 with Andy E

Hammy - Solo - 27/Mar/02

Gustav - Lead O/S - 2002 with Adam bro

Stevie_R - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/01 with rod

kato'sdad - Solo - 08/Aug/00 with Rob Simpson

RobSimmo - Solo - 08/Aug/00 with Jon Berry

Hidden - Solo - May/00

alan moore - 2000

chris sm - Solo - 14/Jul/99

craig h - Solo O/S - 08/Oct/98 with Jamie Lillieman

FrankW - Solo O/S - 29/Aug/98 with Joe

Hidden - Solo - 15/Aug/98

FrankW - Solo - Aug/98

EddieA - Solo O/S - 23/May/98

charlesmfrench - Solo O/S - 24/May/97 with Ann Fooks, Dave Fooks

craig h - Solo O/S - 15/Feb/97

Adrian Daniels - 2nd - 18/Jun/95 with Dave Nicholson

Hidden - Solo - 1995

smudge - Solo O/S - 1993

Andy Say - Solo - 20/Aug/91

andrew300169 - 1990

Iain Thow - Solo - 17/May/89

Roget - Solo O/S - 1989 with jim

tapley - Solo - 18/Sep/87

bullybones - 1987

Mark Kemball - Solo - 13/Mar/84

JohnHutch - Lead - Aug/83

Nigel Bond - Solo - 09/Jan/83

babymoac - 29/May/78

rogerskews - Solo - 1974

mikej - Lead - 25/Apr/71 with E

Rog Wilko - Lead - Mar/71 with Debbie Wilkinson

mikej - Solo - 24/Jun/70 with Nick Taylor, Rosemary Lewis, Pete Williams, Malcolm Eldridge

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, reckless_rat, Hidden, hapymike, Kamikaze Badger

Voting
Total votes cast 76
hard HVD0 of 40
HVD2 of 40
easy HVD14 of 40
hard VD12 of 40
VD10 of 40
easy VD2 of 40
hard HD0 of 40
HD0 of 40
easy HD0 of 40
3 Stars0 of 36
2 Stars9 of 36
1 Star25 of 36
0 Stars2 of 36
Bag of .....0 of 36
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Style of ascent

Soloed85 of 270 (31.5%)
Lead105 of 270 (38.9%)
Followed66 of 270 (24.4%)
Toproped4 of 270 (1.5%)
Bouldered1 of 270 (0.4%)
Unknown9 of 270 (3.3%)

'Climbed'112 of 270 (41.5%)
clean O/S137 of 270 (50.7%)
clean β4 of 270 (1.5%)
clean rpt13 of 270 (4.8%)
dogged1 of 270 (0.4%)
dnf3 of 270 (1.1%)