Crabbie's Crack*** HVS 5a
[Crabbies Crack, 2 kb]16m. A classic jamming crack. Gain the fissure awkwardly and follow it to its end. Finish up the exposed arete on the right - Flaky Wall Finish - or (more in keeping but less exciting) the thin crack on the left. © ROCKFAX
FA. Bob Downes early 1950s 1952

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List.

Photo: Crabbies Crack © caradoc

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 175 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

Rafal Malczyk - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/14 with Ian Pegg

Hard! Vs? glad to see hvs on here but I thought it was 5b. Awkward to gain the crack and hard to leave it. Great gear and very strenuous.
SGD - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/14 with Vicky Holmes

Hidden - Lead dnf - 18/Jul/14

Nice jammin Flaky wall finish delightful and balancy
rurp - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/14 with bill farmer

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/14

Lukem6 - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/14 with Kev

Flakey Wall Finish.
Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14 with Williams

Really nice climbing. Bomber jams and great gear.
gavinpeach - 2nd O/S - 21/May/14 with Andy Finney

danJBA - Lead O/S - 19/May/14 with Dan Brockwell

pipof747 - Lead O/S - 05/May/14

Hidden - 2nd - 03/May/14

cem - Lead rpt - 03/May/14 with Chris Smith

IanGilbertJones - 2014

Andrew Abraham - 2nd - 10/Nov/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/13

With flakey wall finish
disturbed_one51 - 2nd - 20/Oct/13 with Wee man

Really fun, plus did the arete finish, scary.
Jonathan Hall - Lead - 20/Oct/13 with Mark Williams

rich_hw - Lead rpt - 14/Sep/13 with James

Hidden - Lead - 14/Sep/13

Hidden - 2nd dog - 07/Sep/13

Ky - 2nd O/S - 11/Jul/13 with Wales

I have never before been thrashed so hard by a VS! found this brutally hard
PeteWilson - 2nd - 10/Jul/13 with Dave

Another hard work VS, apparently I'm sill not that proficient at jamming!
Andrew Abraham - Lead - Jul/13 with Ceara

Hard for the tall ... good that!
augustus trout - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/13 with Stevie G

psborland - 2nd - 19/May/13 with Max Lowry

Failed to lead
Rob Jarratt - TR - 05/May/13 with Andy Crawley

sgl0jd - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/13

mark4344 - 2nd - 19/Apr/13 with Matt Payne

cheeky - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/13 with Mark Philipson

Calder - 2nd - 06/Apr/13 with Mark

Max Lowry - 2013

Guy Wilson - 2013 with Gavin Moy

RamblingRyan - Lead dnf - 14/Oct/12 with Danny, Col

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - 11/Oct/12

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Anna

Ant Man Bee - 2nd - 22/Sep/12 with Charles Moreton

cem - Lead rpt - 22/Sep/12 with Paul Bolton

Hidden - Lead - 01/Sep/12

toasted - 2nd - 01/Sep/12 with Andy Graham

Different Steve - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Jason

jasonpm - Lead dog - 21/Jul/12 with Steve IMC

simeclimb68 - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/12 with Phil Layton

Put a cam right in the way of where I needed to hand jam. Should have left it where I first put it in (just above the jam I was hanging from)rather than reaching up.
Phil Layton - Lead dnf - 12/Jul/12 with simon

Much easier seconding.
Phil Layton - 2nd β - 12/Jul/12 with simon

WillDoyle - Lead dnf - 29/May/12

Hidden - 2nd - 27/May/12

TommityP - Lead O/S - 27/May/12

Hidden - 2nd - 20/May/12

Hidden - Lead - 20/May/12

would be good value at VS. not much easier than rubberneck i thought. really good though
Alex@home - 2nd O/S - 02/May/12 with The Doctor

woody8 - 2nd - 05/Apr/12

Steady as 'owt, pretty soft or maybe just well suited. Utterly brilliant either way.
andrew sandercock - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with robert sandercock

Matt Harle - Lead rpt - 01/Apr/12

Hidden - 26/Mar/12

Mike Parks - TR dog - 25/Mar/12 with Paul

Alex Winter - Lead rpt - 10/Mar/12 with J. Iles-Smith

Pete Graham - Lead - 05/Mar/12 with Howard Lawledge

Jim Malo - 2nd O/S - 03/Mar/12 with Dave W, Barry

fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/12 with jim, daveyw

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Feb/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 19/Feb/12

Hidden - 2012

Back to jamming school...
Big Lee - 2nd dog - 13/Nov/11 with Laurence King

LJKing - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Lee Harrison

AlexRenshaw - 2nd - 06/Nov/11 with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw

Already clipped into Rachel's gear just below the main crack, wussed out on the exposed arete (it was blowing a hoolie!) and opted for the solid finger crack.
David Kay - Lead β - 13/Sep/11 with Mynydd C.C.

Dave Rumney - 04/Sep/11 with Tanya Milner

Stoney Boy - 2nd O/S - 07/Aug/11 with Nick Conway

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/11

bigdrew - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/11 with Rich R

standard finish this time
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 18/Jun/11 with Richard Williams

Flaky wall finish. Brilliant route. A battle with the crack, though the crux was easier than it looked, then a lovely delicate, exposed finish.
Marvino - Lead - 12/Jun/11 with Martin

pord - 2nd β - 11/Jun/11 with Gary Cooper, Justin

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jun/11

clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - 21/May/11 with Dave Clarke

Rob had some fun on this one! I think a bled quite a bit after the jamming...
Dave Mahon - Lead - May/11 with Rob Munday

Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/11 with matt pardy, Alec Thomas

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/11

Amy Kilpin - 2nd - 23/Apr/11

tatz45 - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/11 with Wes Inskip

Dizz - 2nd - 17/Apr/11 with max

started to lead but backed off at crux, was the first lead of the day and a bit out of my reach head games wise, technically i did it. had a bit of a rest on the rope
minirollsrule - 2nd dog - 03/Apr/11 with matt reynolds

tried to lead, couldnt commit to crux
Killianmurphy - 2nd β - 02/Apr/11

hilty - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/11

PAJames - 2011

buxtoncoffeelover - 2nd - Dec/10

Flaky Wall Finish, very cold but excellent climbing
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 21/Nov/10 with Richard Williams

tri-nitro-toulumne - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/10 with Rich Guest

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 21/Sep/10

Alex Winter - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/10 with T. Selvage

tigertim - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/10 with Alex Winter

Alistair Corbett - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/10 with ben peake

Hard going! 'only' 4c, but feels much harder if your jamming isn't up to scratch.
Dave Mahon - Lead - Jun/10 with Matt Jackson

hard as nails! Both me and Chris failed to lead!
bigbobbyking - Lead dnf - 09/May/10 with Chris Allan

chrisallan - Lead dnf - 09/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/10

GrantB - 2nd - 03/Apr/10 with James

Good. Easier once the jugs out left were pointed out!
jkarran - Lead - 03/Apr/10 with Grant

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/10 with Alan Royle

Rowansb - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/10

CharlieMack - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/10 with Rik Battye

Boy - 04/Mar/10 with Si Wilson

rikbattye - 2nd - Mar/10 with Charlie Mackie

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead - 23/Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd - 09/May/09

donkster - Lead rpt - 15/Apr/09 with dennis

keith leonard - 2009

Got half way up, but not used to jamming so couldn't see how to do the upper section!
AndyM-LVB - Lead dnf - 28/Jun/08 with Brendan Ferguson

richardhopton - Lead dog - 10/Jun/08 with Matt Thombs

The Bad Cough - 2nd O/S - 07/Jun/08 with Lee Bonner

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/08

mark4344 - 2nd - 30/May/08 with michel schonewille

Good jamming. Bit awkward ot get going i nthe crack - probably 5a? Neil avoided the to phalf of the crack on lead due to not liking the jams - he did the left hand variant.
Si dH - 2nd O/S - 07/May/08 with Neil Furniss

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - TR - 2008

Ian Parnell - 2nd O/S - 24/Oct/07 with Jon Winter

cem - 2nd - 06/Oct/07 with David T, Rob Truckle

Jus - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/07

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 12/Aug/07

galpinos - 2nd O/S - 01/Apr/07 with John

Approx 2007? Good climb, quite physical
eduardo - Lead O/S - 2007 with Sylvain

Hidden - Lead - 12/Nov/06

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 17/Sep/06 with helen gibson

Stig - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/06 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

ArnaudG - 2nd - 24/Aug/06 with Goi

Excellent, crack is hard at 4c
Steve Pardoe - 2nd - 24/Aug/06 with Arnaud Garcon, Goi Ashmore

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/06 with Arnaud Garcon, Steve Pardoe

feilx - Solo O/S - 29/Jul/06

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 02/Jun/06

John Lisle - 2006

Hidden - 2006

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/05 with Mark Gill

John Southworth - Lead O/S - Sep/05 with Vicky Munn

M_W_Court - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/05

Smelly Fox - Lead O/S - 02/May/05 with Rob Clifton

Jon Read - Lead O/S - 2005 with Debs

aulda - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/04 with Dave R

donkster - 2nd O/S - Aug/04 with dennis

ASchwirtz - TR O/S - 18/Jul/04 with Shona D'arcy

Coel Hellier - Lead - 2004

lithos - Lead - 18/Oct/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/03

kato'sdad - 2nd - May/03 with Rob Simpson

RobSimmo - Lead O/S - May/03 with Jon Berry

Chesh - Lead O/S - 2003 with Daz

mark s - Solo O/S - 2003

Hidden - Lead - 15/Aug/02

Hidden - Lead - 07/Jul/02

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 11/May/02 with Phil Simister

bullybones - 2002

Le Chevalier Mal Fet - Lead - 26/Apr/98 with Richard Bower

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/97

craig h - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/97 with Paul Braithwaite

Hidden - Lead dog - 1997

EddieA - 2nd - 06/May/96 with Mark

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jul/95

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jul/92

Hidden - 2nd β - 16/May/92

Roget - Solo rpt - 14/May/92

Hidden - Lead - 1992

dodders - 30/Aug/91 with Dick Hargreaves

Andy Say - Solo - 20/Aug/91

Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 24/Mar/91 with Brad Jackson

Andy Fielding - 2nd - 1991 with Mark Lardner

sadams - 2nd - 31/Aug/90 with Mark Bonham

tapley - Lead - 24/Sep/89 with Ian Avis

babymoac - Lead - 01/Sep/89 with Chris B, Kev B Sid et al.

Dave Musgrove - Lead O/S - 07/May/89 with Paul Dawson, Kim Greenald

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/May/87

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/84

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/79

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mapperley samurai, gavinpeach, Hixmclix, Steve Waters, Mynydd, PeteWilson, Emma-Louise Anderson, skittles

Voting
Total votes cast 112
hard E10 of 51
E10 of 51
easy E10 of 51
hard HVS11 of 51
HVS29 of 51
easy HVS5 of 51
hard VS5 of 51
VS1 of 51
easy VS0 of 51
hard 5b0 of 16
5b1 of 16
easy 5b0 of 16
hard 5a1 of 16
5a10 of 16
easy 5a1 of 16
hard 4c3 of 16
4c0 of 16
easy 4c0 of 16
3 Stars41 of 45
2 Stars4 of 45
1 Star0 of 45
0 Stars0 of 45
Bag of .....0 of 45
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Style of ascent

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dnf