Rockfax Description
16m. A classic jamming crack. Gain the fissure awkwardly and follow it to its end. Finish up the exposed arete on the right - Flaky Wall Finish - or (more in keeping but less exciting) the thin crack on the left. © Rockfax

FA. Bob Downes early 1950s 1952

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Roaches HVS Challenge.

Mark Grist 17/Oct Lead O/S
steely 13/Oct Lead O/S
owain-1978 13/Oct 2nd
Hidden 28/Sep 2nd rpt
mark4344 28/Sep Lead
with Michel
bryce.dorin 24/Sep 2nd O/S
with Niels
Hidden 24/Sep Lead O/S
Dan Geh 05/Sep Lead O/S

Superb, bomber jams all the way

tgeh 05/Sep 2nd O/S
with dan geh
Andy Peak 1 02/Sep Lead

Chased by the Rain, left hand finish, very very good climbing

with J Doors
Hidden 23/Aug Lead O/S
Nigel Bond 11/Aug Lead
with Bern Hardman
R0bbie 09/Aug 2nd
with Taba
Hidden 31/Jul 2nd
Hidden 21/Jun 2nd O/S
mapperley samurai 09/Jun Lead O/S

Quality crack.

with Lewis Holmes
DanChad 03/Jun Lead O/S

Pleased with how well I led this. No flailing at all.

Le Chevalier Mal Fet 03/Jun 2nd

Probably 5b if you can't jam.

Climbster 25/May 2nd β
with Vick, Ian
rob 528 ?/Apr Lead O/S
KeenClimber 14/Mar Lead dog

Cold! Couldn't feel my fingers!

with Jim
Mowglee 06/Dec/14 Lead O/S
with Sam Doyle
greenclimb 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Oct/14 2nd
Rafal Malczyk 28/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Ian Pegg
SGD 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Hard! Vs? glad to see hvs on here but I thought it was 5b. Awkward to gain the crack and hard to leave it. Great gear and very strenuous.

Hidden 18/Jul/14 Lead dnf
rurp 08/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Nice jammin Flaky wall finish delightful and balancy

with bill farmer
Hidden 05/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Lukem6 11/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Kev
Jim Slater 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Flakey Wall Finish.

friendzone1234 ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
gavinpeach 21/May/14 2nd O/S

Really nice climbing. Bomber jams and great gear.

with Andy Finney
danJBA 19/May/14 Lead O/S
with Dan Brockwell
pipof747 05/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd
cem 03/May/14 Lead rpt
CrispsSmiths 03/May/14 2nd
with cem
jimxxx ??/2014 -
rob 528 ??/2014 Lead O/S
Andrew Abraham 10/Nov/13 2nd
Hidden 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S
disturbed_one51 20/Oct/13 2nd

With flakey wall finish

with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 20/Oct/13 Lead

Really fun, plus did the arete finish, scary.

rich_hw 14/Sep/13 Lead rpt
with James
Hidden 14/Sep/13 Lead
Curly Rich 07/Sep/13 2nd dog
with GMC Stuart
Ky 11/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Wales
PeteWilson 10/Jul/13 2nd

I have never before been thrashed so hard by a VS! found this brutally hard

with Dave
Andrew Abraham ?/Jul/13 Lead

Another hard work VS, apparently I'm sill not that proficient at jamming!

with Ceara
augustus trout 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Hard for the tall ... good that!

with Stevie G
psborland 19/May/13 2nd
Rob Jarratt 05/May/13 TR

Failed to lead

with Andy Crawley
sgl0jd 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
mark4344 19/Apr/13 2nd
with Matt Payne
cheeky 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Calder 06/Apr/13 2nd
with Mark
Hidden ??/2013 -
Guy Wilson ??/2013 -
with Gavin Moy
RamblingRyan 14/Oct/12 Lead dnf
with Danny, Col
dannyboy83 11/Oct/12 Solo O/S
Chriswallis2 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Anna
Hidden 22/Sep/12 2nd
cem 22/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead
toasted 01/Sep/12 2nd
with Andy Graham
Different Steve 21/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Jason
jasonpm 21/Jul/12 Lead dog
with Steve IMC
simeclimb68 12/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Phil Layton 12/Jul/12 Lead dnf

Put a cam right in the way of where I needed to hand jam. Should have left it where I first put it in (just above the jam I was hanging from)rather than reaching up.

with simon
Phil Layton 12/Jul/12 2nd β

Much easier seconding.

with simon
WillDoyle 29/May/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 27/May/12 2nd
Hidden 27/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/12 2nd
Hidden 20/May/12 Lead
Alex@home 02/May/12 2nd O/S

would be good value at VS. not much easier than rubberneck i thought. really good though

with The Doctor
woody8 05/Apr/12 2nd
andrew sandercock 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Steady as 'owt, pretty soft or maybe just well suited. Utterly brilliant either way.

with robert sandercock
Matt Harle 01/Apr/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Mar/12 -
Mike Parks 25/Mar/12 TR dog
with Paul
Alex Winter 10/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Pete Graham 05/Mar/12 Lead
with Howard Lawledge
Jim Malo 03/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Dave W, Barry
fatbuoybazza 03/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with jim, daveyw
Hidden 25/Feb/12 2nd
Hidden 19/Feb/12 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2012 -
Big Lee 13/Nov/11 2nd dog

Back to jamming school...

LJKing 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S
AlexRenshaw 06/Nov/11 2nd
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
David Kay 13/Sep/11 Lead β

Already clipped into Rachel's gear just below the main crack, wussed out on the exposed arete (it was blowing a hoolie!) and opted for the solid finger crack.

with Mynydd C.C.
Dave Rumney 04/Sep/11 -
with Tanya Milner
Stoney Boy 07/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Nick Conway
Hidden 25/Jul/11 Lead O/S
bigdrew 13/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Rich R
Graeme Hammond 18/Jun/11 Lead rpt

standard finish this time

Marvino 12/Jun/11 Lead

Flaky wall finish. Brilliant route. A battle with the crack, though the crux was easier than it looked, then a lovely delicate, exposed finish.

with Martin
pord 11/Jun/11 2nd β
with Gary Cooper, Justin
Hidden 11/Jun/11 2nd
clive-greenwood 21/May/11 Lead O/S
with Dave Clarke
Dave Mahon ?/May/11 Lead

Rob had some fun on this one! I think a bled quite a bit after the jamming...

with Rob Munday
Ed Booth 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with matt pardy, Alec Thomas
Hidden 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Amy Kilpin 23/Apr/11 2nd
tatz45 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Wes Inskip
Dizz 17/Apr/11 2nd
with max
minirollsrule 03/Apr/11 2nd dog

started to lead but backed off at crux, was the first lead of the day and a bit out of my reach head games wise, technically i did it. had a bit of a rest on the rope

with matt reynolds
Killianmurphy 02/Apr/11 2nd β

tried to lead, couldnt commit to crux

Rob Davies ?/Mar/11 Lead

Looks as if it ought to be straightforward, but isn'r

with Phil Ashton
hilty 30/Jan/11 Lead O/S
PAJames ??/2011 -
buxtoncoffeelover ?/Dec/10 2nd
Graeme Hammond 21/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Flaky Wall Finish, very cold but excellent climbing

tri-nitro-toulumne 21/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Rich Guest
Hidden 21/Sep/10 2nd rpt
Alex Winter 08/Sep/10 2nd O/S
tigertim 08/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Alistair Corbett 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with ben peake
Dave Mahon ?/Jun/10 Lead

Hard going! 'only' 4c, but feels much harder if your jamming isn't up to scratch.

bigbobbyking 09/May/10 Lead dnf

hard as nails! Both me and Chris failed to lead!

with Chris Allan
chrisallan 09/May/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
GrantB 03/Apr/10 2nd
with James
jkarran 03/Apr/10 Lead

Good. Easier once the jugs out left were pointed out!

with Grant
mattyork2 03/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Rowansb 21/Mar/10 2nd O/S
CharlieMack 11/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Boy 04/Mar/10 -
with Si Wilson
rikbattye ?/Mar/10 2nd
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 27/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 23/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden 09/May/09 2nd
donkster 15/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with dennis
keith leonard ??/2009 -
AndyM-LVB 28/Jun/08 Lead dnf

Got half way up, but not used to jamming so couldn't see how to do the upper section!

with Brendan Ferguson
richardhopton 10/Jun/08 Lead dog
with Matt Thombs
The Bad Cough 07/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Lee Bonner
Hidden 31/May/08 Lead O/S
mark4344 30/May/08 2nd
with michel schonewille
Si dH 07/May/08 2nd O/S

Good jamming. Bit awkward ot get going i nthe crack - probably 5a? Neil avoided the to phalf of the crack on lead due to not liking the jams - he did the left hand variant.

with Neil Furniss
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 TR
Ian Parnell 24/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with Jon Winter
cem 06/Oct/07 2nd
with David T, Rob Truckle
Jus 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S
dan gibson 12/Aug/07 Lead rpt
galpinos 01/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with John
eduardo ??/2007 Lead O/S

Approx 2007? Good climb, quite physical

with Sylvain
Bob Peters ??/2007 Lead dog

Jamming initiation in the worst possible style, as you might expect from an avowed culm slab climber

with Dad
Hidden 12/Nov/06 Lead
dan gibson 17/Sep/06 Lead rpt
with helen gibson
Stig 07/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
ArnaudG 24/Aug/06 2nd
with Goi
Steve Pardoe 24/Aug/06 2nd

Excellent, crack is hard at 4c

with Arnaud Garcon, Goi Ashmore
goi.ashmore 18/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Arnaud Garcon, Steve Pardoe
feilx 29/Jul/06 Solo O/S
dan gibson 02/Jun/06 Solo O/S
John Lisle ??/2006 -
MazElden ??/2006 -
chrishedgehog 27/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with Mark Gill
John Southworth ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Vicky Munn
just one more 04/Aug/05 2nd
with chris nunn
M_W_Court 02/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Smelly Fox 02/May/05 Lead O/S
with Rob Clifton
Jon Read ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Debs
Gus ??/2005 Lead
aulda 04/Sep/04 Lead O/S
with Dave R
donkster ?/Aug/04 2nd O/S
with dennis
ASchwirtz 18/Jul/04 TR O/S
with Shona D'arcy
Coel Hellier ??/2004 Lead
lithos 18/Oct/03 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/03 Lead O/S
kato'sdad ?/May/03 2nd
RobSimmo ?/May/03 Lead O/S
Chesh ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Daz
Hidden ??/2003 Solo O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/02 Lead
Hidden 07/Jul/02 Lead
Brian Rodgers 11/May/02 Lead O/S
with Phil Simister
bullybones ??/2002 -
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Martin Flint
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 26/Apr/98 Lead
with Richard Bower
Hidden 03/May/97 Lead O/S
craig h 15/Mar/97 Lead O/S
with Paul Braithwaite
Hidden ??/1997 Lead dog
D Tempest 06/Jul/96 2nd
with Rick
EddieA 06/May/96 2nd
with Mark
Hidden 20/Jul/95 2nd
IanGilbertJones 13/Mar/95 Solo
Hidden 05/Jul/92 2nd
Hidden 16/May/92 2nd β
Roget 14/May/92 Solo rpt
nai ??/1992 Lead
dodders 30/Aug/91 -
with Dick Hargreaves
Andy Say 20/Aug/91 Solo
Gordon Stainforth 24/Mar/91 2nd
with Brad Jackson
Andy Fielding ??/1991 2nd
with Mark Lardner
sadams 31/Aug/90 2nd
with Mark Bonham
tapley 24/Sep/89 Lead
with Ian Avis
babymoac 01/Sep/89 Lead
with Chris B, Kev B Sid et al.
Dave Musgrove 07/May/89 Lead O/S
with Paul Dawson, Kim Greenald
Hidden 26/May/87 2nd O/S
charlesmfrench 13/Apr/84 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/79 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
GStone, hthom, mapperley samurai, leoch01, gavinpeach, Hixmclix, Hidden, Hidden, Steve Waters, Mynydd, PeteWilson, Emma-Louise Anderson, Hidden, Hidden, skittles, Hidden
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 58
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 52
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set