Rockfax Description
Left of the through-cave, tackle the twin cracks and the bulge to access the interesting groove above. Although highly polished, it remains popular. Exit either side of the final roof. © Rockfax

FA. John Loy, Harry Gillott, Brian Stokes, Ted Howard 1960

MYox 11/Oct Lead O/S

Fun, easy, polished.

with Claudia, Krzysztof
Clama 11/Oct 2nd O/S
with Krzysztof, MYox
Robin Nichols 27/Sep Lead O/S
with Roger
john lynch 13/Sep Lead
with Bethan D, rosie
Deezel65 21/Jul Lead O/S

Really nice route and the polish doesn't really detract

cragtyke 21/Jul 2nd
with Ross
Hidden 11/Jul 2nd
planetmarshall 11/Jul Lead O/S
with Clive Betteridge
georgenvk 26/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with shouter
Hidden 26/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hardcore Pat 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Dr Julie, Chris Vanderz
john lynch 14/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Ant King
aking12 14/Mar/14 2nd O/S
sting 30/Jul/13 TR
with Mike Sender, Mike Traxion
Mowglee 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Sasha, Tom Nichols
JHiley 09/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Thought some holds were loose, especially just below the bulge and avoiding these made this a bit of an ordeal. They were polished though as well as wobbley...

with Fran
Joey C 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/13 2nd
franhammond92 09/Jun/13 2nd
Jake Young 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Nick
Nick1812P 05/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Jake
Hidden 28/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 23/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/12 Lead O/S
andybirtwistle 22/May/12 Lead

Squeaky polished at the bottom but very good and worth 2*s

with Keith Lonsdale
Graeme Hammond 13/May/12 Lead O/S

Seemed more like a VS till just over the roof then found upper groove was more tricky with technical bridging.

Jim Slater 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Polished holds lower down, but positive enough to still make a good climb.

with Rosa
victim of mathematics 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S


with J-Ro
John Lewis 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with James Rowe
caradoc 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S

those shiny holds certainly make you think, the most memorable moves on a good pitch

with john b
ColinD 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S

So slippery in first 15', let it add to the experience.

marcoleptic 06/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Tommo
Luke Dawson ?/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/10 Lead
jon bradley 15/May/10 2nd dog

Evilly polished. Great line, but loses a star because of the teflon holds

with Huw Howells
katyvose1 ??/2010 -
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
nickcanute ??/2010 -
Ketu 25/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Nigel
tiga271 16/Aug/09 2nd
with mark20
mark20 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
jonka ?/Aug/09 Lead
with mark
mark sadler ?/Aug/09 2nd
Gustav 05/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with Owen
Cake 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S


with Jon
bigphil 24/May/09 Lead O/S
with Toby
Adam1973 26/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Big Ian
Tom Anthistle 26/Apr/09 2nd
Sankey 27/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Luke
thebigfriendlymoose 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Stephen
jimbonfire 02/Jun/08 Lead O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
dan66 24/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
with Rory Guy
spacey 11/Aug/07 2nd
nige pacer 10/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Martin Haworth ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Andy
Hidden 08/Jul/05 TR
Hidden 09/Jun/05 2nd rpt
Sam and will 05/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Anthony Bennett + Ben Bennett + Amanda Bennett
Phill Mitch ??/2005 Lead O/S
with john d
Howard J 13/Jul/04 2nd
with Richard Bonheyo
Brown ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Phil West 31/May/03 Lead β
with Chris Tan
Hidden 26/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Andy Edgar ??/2000 -
Phil West 25/Sep/99 Lead dnf

Gave up at the roof.

with David Atherton
Hidden 24/Jul/99 2nd O/S
sdht ??/1999 -
cem 10/May/98 Lead O/S

Graded VS 4c when I did it

craig h 04/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with Rick W and Janet Hannah
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ?/Jun/96 2nd
with Richard Bower
colin milton 19/Jul/95 Lead
with eric milton
Hidden 28/Mar/93 2nd O/S
Backinthegame ?/Aug/92 Lead rpt
Chris the Tall ?/May/92 Lead rpt

Had seconded it in 85

with Dave Gurney
Roget ??/1992 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/May/91 2nd
leathers 26/Apr/91 Lead
with Ed Hyatt
Rog Wilko ?/Apr/91 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
Backinthegame ?/Apr/90 Lead

polished even then! But thought VS fair at the time....

with Andrew Hall
Nick Rundall ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/89 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/88 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/88 2nd O/S
malc 22/Jun/88 Lead O/S
with Billy Whiz
John Marsland 11/Jun/88 2nd
with Darrell Small
steve prior ?/May/88 Lead
with Dave T
Hidden 07/Jul/85 2nd
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1985 -
Tim Bateman 04/Nov/84 2nd
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
Hidden 29/Oct/83 Lead
Mark Kemball 09/Sep/83 Solo
Pete Pozman ?/Jul/83 2nd O/S
with Jeremy
Hidden 12/Jun/83 2nd
Hidden 05/Jun/83 AltLd O/S
mark-abz 15/Sep/82 2nd
with Andy W
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead O/S
with Rich Lewis
charlesmfrench 18/Oct/81 Lead O/S
babymoac 12/Apr/81 -
Hidden 07/Mar/81 Lead
Chris Ellis 06/Jul/80 2nd
with Nige Shaw
tapley 27/Apr/80 Lead
with Chris Seymour, Alison Tapley
Andy Say 13/May/79 Lead O/S
Nevil ??/1978 Lead
Mark Kemball 26/Feb/77 Lead
with Ian Grace
Hidden 30/Jan/77 Lead
rogerskews ??/1977 Lead
with Various
Derek Ryden ??/1976 AltLd O/S
with Glynne Andrew
Nigel Bond 26/Oct/75 Lead
with John Derbyshire
Dave Westby ??/1972 Lead O/S
with Phil Caley
mikej 28/Mar/71 2nd
with John Bickerdyke
uphillnow ??/1970 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mapperley samurai, vix
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 24
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set