300m, 9 pitches.
A more satisfying variation on Voie des Trous. A few nuts/cams and slings can be useful. The upper 6a+ crux is easily avoided.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| will_lake | 30 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: loads of loose rock | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: loads of loose rock |
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| Richardlake | 29 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Echo what others say - moving quickly on this is hard as you often have to quest up randomly to see where the next bolt is. This is definitely a helmet route - loose rock on the scramble approach to the route, throughout the route itself and on the scramble off. Be very careful if any groups are above you at any time. Also, a couple of belays are not double bolted - at least two are a bolt and a thread. Some issues with the route in the guide book... - Pitch 3 goes up the left edge of the hole, not up the middle of it as the guide suggests. - Couldn't find the belay at the end of pitch 4 so belayed on the obvious chains on the big ledge on the left (end of pitch four of the normal route) - Couldn't find the belay between pitches 6 and 7 so had to run them together, quite a lot of tricky climbing in there Do not under-estimate the section of "scrambling" when the bolts end. It goes on forever, the rock is very poor and a slip at points would be fatal. We roped up and did some big pitches to keep it as safe as possible. The walk off is an absolute monster - a never ending scree slope all the way down to the lake. The whole thing took over 12 hours from the car park and back on an incredibly hot day! | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Echo what others say - moving quickly on this is hard as you often have to quest up randomly to see where the next bolt is. This is definitely a helmet route - loose rock on the scramble approach to the route, throughout the route itself and on the scramble off. Be very careful if any groups are above you at any time. Also, a couple of belays are not double bolted - at least two are a bolt and a thread. Some issues with the route in the guide book... - Pitch 3 goes up the left edge of the hole, not up the middle of it as the guide suggests. - Couldn't find the belay at the end of pitch 4 so belayed on the obvious chains on the big ledge on the left (end of pitch four of the normal route) - Couldn't find the belay between pitches 6 and 7 so had to run them together, quite a lot of tricky climbing in there Do not under-estimate the section of "scrambling" when the bolts end. It goes on forever, the rock is very poor and a slip at points would be fatal. We roped up and did some big pitches to keep it as safe as possible. The walk off is an absolute monster - a never ending scree slope all the way down to the lake. The whole thing took over 12 hours from the car park and back on an incredibly hot day! |
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