44m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The original classic has become polished over the years. It is still worth doing but be prepared for a slippery time. Start from a narrow grassy ledge above and left of the large tree growing left of the toe of the buttress.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the glossy flake-crack then step right onto a short, steep, shattered wall above (some suspect holds). Step out right and belay left of a large pinnacle.
2) 4b, 26m. Climb to the top of the pinnacle, then slide up the shiny crack to a possible stance. Climb the pleasant ramp, in a superb situation, to finish up the grassy groove. Belay on the ledge on the right or find a well-hidden iron spike in the grass. © Rockfax

FA. D.Johnson, D.Mellor 1960

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, World Graded List, Peak Rock/10/White Life.

Dave Pen 25/Sep AltLd

Brilliant route, polish and loose rock not as bad as expected. good protection!

GermanAlex 20/Sep Lead O/S

Meh. 9/10 for adventure (inc dead bird), 3/10 for climbing. Lead both pitches.

with Gareth
Wayne S 29/Aug AltLd


with Dale
D Berry 29/Aug AltLd

The Gorgon is slain. No problems today (led P2) and a most enjoyable route. Though perhaps over effected by the polish on P1 and birds (living or otherwise) through- out for the full 3rd star.

with Wayne S
Palmer 16/Aug Lead

as one pitch

cdpuk 16/Aug AltLd O/S

P1. Glassy, but straightforward. Maybe 3* decades ago, not so much now.

with Peter Neden
sopaz 16/Aug 2nd
with Palmer
James Lowe 08/Aug AltLd O/S
with Fran
franhammond92 08/Aug AltLd

Pitch 2

Ewan Russell 02/Aug AltLd rpt

1st pitch. The memories!

with Keeves, Halla
Hidden 02/Aug -
Wayne S 25/Jul -
with Dale
D Berry 25/Jul AltLd dnf

Led P1. Abbed off after a shower came at the wrong time, to make the prospect of damp polish not at all appealing.

with Wayne S
robgixer 25/Jul 2nd
Vanessa Simmons 22/Jul 2nd
with Mike I
Piers Harley 18/Jul -
with Jeremy Windsor
jon_gill1 17/Jul Lead O/S

A lovely climb,only marred by a dead bird in the first pitch which was starting to smell quite bad!

mky77 17/Jul 2nd
Hidden 02/Jul AltLd O/S
davewsargent ?/Jul Lead
with pete bush, andy neath
Jackwd 25/Jun AltLd rpt

1st Pitch, watch out for the dead bird in the crack 5m up!

charley 25/Jun AltLd O/S

led P2

with JackD
gavinpeach 12/Jun AltLd rpt
with Hellen
kushan.vyas ?/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
gavinpeach 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Max Pendleton
FlavioL1989 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Easy climbing with great exposure. Some loose bits and much bird poo on p2 makes the route engage most senses.

with A Stranger
DaveHall246 03/Aug/14 AltLd rpt
with Kevin Mulligan
john max 03/Aug/14 Lead
with Debora Nada
Aline 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Led both pitches and thought it was a rather easy going VS. Lovely and whenever it's polished there are alternative holds available. Good gear and the top is just a scramble.

with Peak Climbing Club Sheffield
LakesWinter 09/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Phil B
philboy 09/Jul/14 AltLd
with matt g
Hidden 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/14 Lead
jmills94 12/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

still good despite the polish - moves right on first pitch are enjoyable. me p1, 2*

with colin
Jules Lane 11/Jun/14 Lead O/S

OK.Not worth 2 stars. Crux is first couple of moves.

with Mynydd Paul Justin
Hidden 11/Jun/14 2nd
deacondeacon 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Led pitch one

the power 08/Jun/14 AltLd O/S


with deacon
keith leonard 03/Jun/14 2nd
georgenvk 18/May/14 Lead O/S
BoulderyDave 17/May/14 Lead O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
cymjt ??/2014 -
BenedictIEP 26/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P2. Not too polished, Nice moves in a fine position.

vix 26/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch... Would be worth three stars if it wasnt for all the bird poo

with Ben
djones66 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Unfortunately, this is no longer a high-quality route. There are 1-star routes at Wildcat (Matlock) that are better than Medusa. In its current state it is dirty, vegetated, extremely polished, and very smelly (thanks to lots of raven sh** and 1 dead bird). Still has some good bits, though.

with Stve mc D
Hardonicus 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S

3 stars no way. Reasonable route though.

with Tom Woods
Hidden 14/Jul/13 2nd O/S
sting 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Second Pitch, worth doing.

with kwaidy
Hidden 13/Jul/13 AltLd
Tamati 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
JRigby 13/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 13/Jul/13 Lead dog
Duncan 88 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S
JHiley 18/Jun/13 2nd rpt

Has this become even more polished in the year since I last did it?

with Zuzana
dr_botnik 18/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Jack D
Jackwd 18/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Good route, especially for the vain as they can check themselves out in all the polished holds!

Hidden 14/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hoyes 11/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Dave W, Liz W
Wayne S 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Rob
James Oakes 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2. First pitch is better than it looks.

robblowen 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Wayne
Bill Lawrence 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with oaksi2
sopaz 25/May/13 AltLd


with Mackie
Lunar25 04/Mar/13 Lead O/S

didnt feel like a classic, small section on pitch 2 was really nice, lower pitch was poor...

with Phil Marsh
john lynch 18/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Lewis Andrew
dr_botnik ??/2013 -
with Paul
JHiley 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S

In 2 pitches. P2 is easier but better. Lots of fossils.

with Carla
Jake Young 05/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with Nick
Nick1812P 05/Sep/12 AltLd O/S


with Jake
CRiddiford 05/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with Jem
Hidden 05/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
CarlaJG ?/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 18/Aug/12 AltLd
DannyK 11/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Katie
Julesthe1st 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 28/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Lead
nick ferro 28/Jul/12 -
treg 26/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Dan P1, Me P2. First pitch is a little bit tougher, but the whole seemed straightforward for the grade. Not a three star route (only my third Peak lime trad route, so maybe this is in an indication that my expectations are too high).

with Dan Osbaldeston
DanOsb 26/Jul/12 -


Hidden 22/Jul/12 AltLd rpt
Hidden 30/May/12 AltLd
Becky E 13/May/12 Lead O/S

Claimed the onsight as virtually no recollection of it from previous ascent. Led both pitches. First few metres were the toughest.

with Rosa Vilaseca
augustus trout 13/May/12 2nd
with Jo Sayers, Mark Furniss
stoo2k 29/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Mar/12 -
cragtyke 11/Mar/12 AltLd

led p1

with Ross
Deezel65 11/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

First Trad route on Limestone, so found it pretty hairy but very glad the 2nd pitch is quite steady

Fragmod 04/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
admackie ??/2012 -
neilh ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
tsjx 30/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

I led pitch 1, Dave P led pitch 2.

Falko 23/Oct/11 AltLd rpt

First led this climb in the 1970s. Jeremy Clarkson would have declared it as a 'damp track' today. We climbed it cleanly and efficiently but without much joy. Both of us preferred Mealystopheles - which we enjoyed after lunch.

with Al W.
Hidden 15/Sep/11 2nd
Joe Costello 04/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Cool stuff. Led 2nd pitch. Failed to find the iron spike (tip - its not in the grass!) so had to use a tree. Done in the rain and polish made absolutely no difference, try climbing at Stoney!

with Matt
mattwyles1 04/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch, slightly damp but dried out quick and didn't really make any difference. Great route, massive holds all the way.

with Joe
daveyji ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Linda Williamson
Hidden 22/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Andrew Lodge 22/Aug/11 AltLd

Great climb in a superb situation

with Steve
victim of mathematics 14/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Protected it entirely with hexes. Great.

with J-Ro
staceyjg 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S

John led both pitches

Will Hunt 14/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Nice fossil on the chockstone at the belay.

Hidden 14/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
John Lewis 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Led Both Pitches

with Stacy
minaturechris 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Barra
Hidden 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
jamesgodwin64 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Chiris Fox
Hidden 23/Jul/11 AltLd
Mike Hegarty 17/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Very Polished...! Top climb though..Defo 3 stars..!

with Phil Craven
philip1984 15/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Polished to buggery but awesome 1st multi-pitch

with Mike Hegarty
caradoc 03/Jul/11 AltLd

polish only a problem on a couple of moves, felt solid

with john b
Alan James - UKC and UKH 18/Jun/11 Lead

Did in three pitches. Sam had no problems really, but I forgot my harness.... doh!

Sam James-Louwerse 18/Jun/11 2nd
Chi Cheng 05/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

P1: Rachel, P2: Chi

Rachel Slater 05/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 1

Andy Peak 1 02/Jun/11 Lead

Helen untied frome the rope on the belay had to absail to rescue!

with H washbrook
Hidden 24/May/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/May/11 Lead
biobuild 18/May/11 2nd O/S
madasten 02/May/11 2nd
with Miquel
Hidden 25/Apr/11 AltLd
Hidden 22/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 22/Apr/11 Lead rpt
marcoleptic 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Mel, Andy Shep
Hidden 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S
metal arms 09/Apr/11 Lead

Straight up to Via Vita belay and finished up 'The Sinister Sinish. In one pitch.

Hidden 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S
RiverRoam 03/Apr/11 2nd β
buxtoncoffeelover 28/Mar/11 AltLd

jacob first pitch,me second

eazyclimbing 22/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with hoppo
BeccaSnowden 12/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Led pitch one. Excellent route! Shame about the polish on the start of the first pitch. Luckily the second pitch made up for it.

with Andy
Mal Grey ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
NB Pixel 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Lovely big shiny holds. Got to love your own reflection...

with Richard Haszko
Dizz 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Simon P
Hidden 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
joese7en 01/Sep/10 2nd O/S
GrantB 15/Aug/10 -
shkinitrep 04/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Luke lead first 18m pitch with me finishing off the route leading the second pitch 24m. This was my first ever multipitch climbing experience.

Hidden 04/Aug/10 AltLd rpt
Hidden 31/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/10 AltLd
Haszko 03/Jul/10 AltLd
with James Salter
Alex Thompson 03/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

1st pitch into Via Vita belay. V.pleasant.

with Ben Hull
Hidden ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Steve J P 20/Jun/10 AltLd

BW - 1st pitch SP - 2nd pitch

with BW
Bernie Wylde 20/Jun/10 AltLd

1st pitch: bw 2nd pitch: sp

with sp
five 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with TW
Graeme Hammond 16/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Fantastic!!!! one of the best peak lime routes i've done. The polished is no where near as bad as the guide implies and never affects the climbing. Spent ages not finding the mentioned spike in the guide at the top and end up belaying on solid rock on the last ledge, so either it was hidden in the grass or has been removed as it is unnecessary. Led the Hex-tastic brilliant second pitch :) THREE STARS!!!!!

tigertim 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with James Noble
Brannock 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with Annette
Hidden 31/May/10 2nd
Hidden 24/May/10 Lead O/S
Trobbo 20/May/10 AltLd
with tony hulme, martin bennett
Hidden 15/May/10 AltLd O/S
jon bradley 15/May/10 AltLd rpt
with Huw Howells
hellboundblr 15/May/10 AltLd

Me P1, Danny P2.

with Danny Smudge
Bron 09/May/10 2nd O/S
with Jez, Tom Stahl
bigphil 18/Apr/10 AltLd
with Mark and Mike
DannyK 19/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Nice but very polished.

with Christos
chrislgk 19/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Danny
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd O/S
MartinWilliams87 ??/2010 Lead O/S

I led the first pitch, then got rained off

rich_hw ??/2010 AltLd O/S
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
nickcanute ??/2010 -
MikeDowsett ??/2010 Lead
with Kris Scheinkonig
spqr 27/Sep/09 2nd
with Roger
Katie Marshall 20/Sep/09 AltLd
Hidden 20/Sep/09 AltLd
climbingxcat 19/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

very polished, I did 2nd pitch

with Brian
Happy Wanderer 19/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Ken led 1st pitch, I led 2nd pitch

with Ken T
jimbonfire 07/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Different Steve 31/Aug/09 2nd rpt

A good lead!

with Clare
Kirill 22/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

led 1st pitch, polished, vegetated and loose.

cem 22/Aug/09 AltLd rpt
Hidden 02/Aug/09 2nd
daveinedale 13/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/08 Lead O/S
bridget143 17/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Brown 1st pitch, I led 2nd.

with Brown
dashitboarder 03/Aug/08 2nd
with Dad
Hidden 03/Aug/08 Lead
Hidden 02/Jul/08 Lead O/S
gazfellows ?/Jun/08 AltLd
with shaun d
Alfredo ?/May/08 AltLd

led 1st pitch. Scared big raptor off nest. Reported unfortunate event to bmc.

with Ben H
b.hayley ?/May/08 AltLd O/S
Jim Slater 26/Jan/08 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch

Hidden 26/Jan/08 AltLd O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
dan66 24/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
with Rory Guy
Different Steve 15/Sep/07 2nd rpt
with Nick Willis & John Buchan
Whealiebob 04/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch. We were disappointed by this route, perhaps we've been spoilt by Wildcat!

with Terry
Milne 04/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

led bottom pitch. certainly the poorest 3 star route i ever climbed, loose holds everywhere, too polished, just not good. try a wildcat 1 star, its 20 times the quality.

with Dave
jonny_098 29/Aug/07 2nd β

Matt led 1st. I led 2nd. Very polished, loose limestone.

with Matt Bazire
Neil Adams 10/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with Andre & Adrian
nige pacer 10/Jun/07 AltLd
IanJackson 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Luke Hunt
Hidden 22/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
kingholmesy ??/2007 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch (4b), seconded 2nd pitch (4b)

with SJD
Ewan Russell 02/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Jim Fraser
Hidden ?/Nov/06 2nd
Hidden 06/May/06 AltLd O/S
DerwentDiluted 06/May/06 Lead
with Nicola Pettit
Hidden 01/May/06 AltLd
Whitt ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
Chris the Tall 31/Jul/05 AltLd

Both pitches 4b - I led first

Hidden 08/Jul/05 Lead
Hidden 26/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Stig 10/May/05 AltLd O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Ramon Marin 05/May/05 Lead O/S
with Ben Gilbert
Dave Mason ?/May/05 Lead O/S
with Andrew Roach
Ramon Marin 20/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Ben Gilbert
Hidden ?/Apr/05 -
Mike Lee 13/Jul/04 Lead

Medusa 18mts VS 4b 3star Ravensdale (I led first pitch)

with Neil
jamie ward 08/Jun/04 AltLd
with John Howes
MaccMark 05/Jun/04 AltLd
with Val Young
Sam and will 15/May/04 AltLd O/S

led pitch 1

with Anthony Bennett
rob.grafton 29/Sep/03 AltLd
with Bruce
robin heath 02/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with Carl Riley
Brown ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Different Steve ?/Jul/03 AltLd O/S

Led P1

Hidden ?/Apr/03 AltLd O/S
Phill Mitch ??/2003 Lead O/S
with john d
Mike Lee 25/Jul/02 Lead

Medusa 46mts VS 4b 4b Ravensdale (I led 2nd pitch)

with Neil
Pero 15/Jul/02 AltLd
Urgles ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Efua
kato'sdad 27/Jun/01 AltLd
RobSimmo 27/Jun/01 AltLd
Hidden 11/Sep/00 Lead
Hidden 27/Jul/00 AltLd
Andy Edgar ??/2000 -
Phil West 25/Sep/99 Lead O/S

I led both pitches.

with David Atherton
Brian Rodgers ?/Sep/99 Lead O/S
with Helen Rea
sdht ??/1999 -
Hidden ??/1999 AltLd
Rich Malcolm 02/Aug/98 AltLd O/S

Me pitch 1, Rich pitch 2

with Rich Hewitt
Hidden 07/Jul/98 Lead O/S
cem 10/May/98 AltLd O/S

Led p2

Hidden 17/Jan/98 AltLd O/S
Ian Archer 20/Sep/97 2nd O/S

Very Polished

with Tony Morris
stokienomad 05/Jun/97 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/97 Lead
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 24/Apr/97 AltLd

Done this climb at least 5 times over the years. Fantastic.

with Richard Bower
Hidden 13/Apr/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/96 AltLd O/S
tlr 26/Jul/96 Lead
with Kim
barney@helmshore 09/Jun/96 2nd
with simon
Adrian Daniels 22/Oct/95 Lead
with Bill Marsh
colin milton 19/Jul/95 AltLd
with eric milton
brady 29/May/95 Lead
with John Cameron
Hidden ??/1995 -
IanGilbertJones 27/Mar/94 Lead
Hidden 07/Jul/93 Lead
Hidden 28/Mar/93 AltLd O/S
Iain Thow 12/Mar/93 Lead

Superb top pitch

with Christine King
Guy ??/1993 -
SimonN 01/Jun/92 AltLd
jacque ?/May/92 2nd

and again alt leads with Micheal 1999

with Roger Martin
Hidden 21/Apr/92 AltLd
jamiev ??/1992 AltLd O/S

date a guess

with john Roberts
Roget ??/1992 Solo O/S
samt 17/Jul/90 Lead
with Dad
Nick Rundall ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 AltLd
AndrewP ??/1990 AltLd
leathers 15/Jul/89 Lead O/S
with Jane ?
Rog Wilko ?/Sep/88 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
John Marsland 11/Jun/88 2nd
with Darrell Small
dodders 26/Sep/87 2nd
with Dick Hargreaves
simon parish ??/1987 2nd
Hidden ??/1987 Lead
Hidden ??/1987 Lead
Simon2005 ?/Aug/85 Lead O/S

Kev led first pitch

with KevinL
Hidden 25/Jul/85 AltLd
babymoac 23/Jun/85 Lead
with MTW
steve prior ?/Jun/85 Lead
with Paul L
malc 07/Mar/85 Lead
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1985 -
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Hidden 26/Jun/84 AltLd
shark 07/May/84 Lead O/S
with Simon Matthews
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
Pete Pozman 02/Jul/83 2nd O/S
with Jeremy
John Marsland 12/Sep/82 Lead
with George Rae and Alan
charlesmfrench 12/Sep/82 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/82 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/82 AltLd
mark-abz 08/May/82 AltLd
with Walter P
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead O/S
with Rich Lewis
Nic Robinson 25/Jun/81 Solo O/S
tapley 16/May/81 Lead


with Alison Tapley
beaumap ?/Apr/81 Lead
with Martin Davis
MikeDowsett ??/1981 Lead
with Jon Sharpe
Mike C 04/Oct/80 AltLd
andy tetsill ?/Oct/80 AltLd
with Whitehall Course
Chris Terrey 05/Jul/80 AltLd
with Pete Hevezi
Bruce Kerr 04/Apr/80 Lead
with Dave Page
johnkeith ??/1980 2nd
with Alex Agnew
Nevil ??/1979 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/78 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 03/Sep/78 Lead
with Bridget Haigh, Patrick Meeds
tapley 17/Aug/77 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Mark Kemball 26/Feb/77 2nd
with Sarah Bridge
Hidden 30/Jan/77 Lead
Rob Davies 21/Nov/76 Lead
with Steve Troop (CUMC)
Hidden 08/Aug/76 2nd
GeoffG 12/Jun/76 Lead
Nigel Bond 26/Oct/75 Lead
with John Derbyshire
rogerskews ??/1975 AltLd
with Various
Andy Say ??/1975 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1974 Lead
Hidden 16/Aug/73 Lead
greenbuoy 27/Feb/72 AltLd
with Bob Lister
Dave Musgrove 18/Jul/71 AltLd
with Bob Knapton
mikej 28/Mar/71 Lead
with John Bickerdyke, E
lump'o'lead ??/1971 -
jcw 17/May/70 AltLd
with Mike Westmacott
bob@daysmill ??/1970 AltLd O/S
uphillnow ??/1970 -
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