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Medusa** VS 4b

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Via Vita >>
[Mr Fox doing his first trad of the year on Medusa  , 3 kb]44m, 2 pitches. The original classic has become polished over the years. It is still worth doing but be prepared for a slippery time. Start from a narrow grassy ledge above and left of the large tree growing left of the toe of the buttress. 1) 4b, 18m. Climb the glossy flake-crack then step right onto a short, steep, shattered wall above (some suspect holds). Step out right and belay left of a large pinnacle. 2) 4b, 26m. Climb to the top of the pinnacle, then slide up the shiny crack to a possible stance. Climb the pleasant ramp, in a superb situation, to finish up the grassy groove. Belay on the ledge on the right or find a well-hidden iron spike in the grass. © ROCKFAX
FA. D.Johnson, D.Mellor 1960

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Peak Rock/10/White Life.

Photo: Mr Fox doing his first trad of the year on Medusa © jamesgodwin64
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 280 logbooks, and on 15 wishlists.

LakesWinter - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/14 with Phil B

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jun/14

still good despite the polish - moves right on first pitch are enjoyable. me p1, 2*
jmills94 - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/14 with colin

OK.Not worth 2 stars. Crux is first couple of moves.
Julian Lane - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/14 with Mynydd Paul Justin

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jun/14

Led pitch one
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/14

P2
the power - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/14 with deacon

keith leonard - 2nd - 03/Jun/14

georgenvk - Lead O/S - 18/May/14 with martina

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/May/14

mike mo - 2014

muppett - Lead - 2014

Lead P2. Not too polished, Nice moves in a fine position.
BenedictIEP - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Vicky Jennings

Lead first pitch... Would be worth three stars if it wasnt for all the bird poo
vix - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Ben

Unfortunately, this is no longer a high-quality route. There are 1-star routes at Wildcat (Matlock) that are better than Medusa. In its current state it is dirty, vegetated, extremely polished, and very smelly (thanks to lots of raven sh** and 1 dead bird). Still has some good bits, though.
djones66 - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Stve mc D

3 stars no way. Reasonable route though.
Hardonicus - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Tom Woods

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/13

Second Pitch, worth doing.
sting - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with kwaidy

kwaidy - AltLd - 13/Jul/13 with sting

Tamati - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13

JRigby - 2nd - 13/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 13/Jul/13

Duncan 88 - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/13

Led both pitches
slacky - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/13 with Ben

Has this become even more polished in the year since I last did it?
JHiley - 2nd rpt - 18/Jun/13 with Zuzana

dr_botnik - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Jack D

Good route, especially for the vain as they can check themselves out in all the polished holds!
Jackwd - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Rob Smith

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/13

Hoyes - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/13 with Dave W, Liz W

Wayne S - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Rob

Lead pitch 2. First pitch is better than it looks.
James Oakes - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Bill Lawrence

robblowen - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Wayne

Bill Lawrence - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with oaksi2

P2
sopaz - AltLd - 25/May/13 with Mackie

didnt feel like a classic, small section on pitch 2 was really nice, lower pitch was poor...
Lunar25 - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/13 with Phil Marsh

john lynch - AltLd O/S - 18/Feb/13 with Lewis Andrew

dr_botnik - 2013 with Paul

In 2 pitches. P2 is easier but better. Lots of fossils.
JHiley - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/12 with Carla

Jake Young - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/12 with Nick

P2
Nick1812P - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/12 with Jake

CRiddiford - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/12 with Jem

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/12

CarlaJG - 2nd - Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Aug/12

DannyK - Lead rpt - 11/Aug/12 with Katie

Julesthe1st - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Mike

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jul/12

nick ferro - 28/Jul/12

Dan P1, Me P2. First pitch is a little bit tougher, but the whole seemed straightforward for the grade. Not a three star route (only my third Peak lime trad route, so maybe this is in an indication that my expectations are too high).
treg - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/12 with Dan Osbaldeston

p1
DanOsb - 26/Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 22/Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd - 30/May/12

Claimed the onsight as virtually no recollection of it from previous ascent. Led both pitches. First few metres were the toughest.
Becky E - Lead O/S - 13/May/12 with Rosa Vilaseca

Hidden - 2nd - 13/May/12

stoo2k - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/12

Hidden - 24/Mar/12

led p1
cragtyke - AltLd - 11/Mar/12 with Ross

First Trad route on Limestone, so found it pretty hairy but very glad the 2nd pitch is quite steady
Deezel65 - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/12

Fragmod - AltLd O/S - 04/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12

Hidden - 2012

admackie - 2012

neilh - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

I led pitch 1, Dave P led pitch 2.
tsjx - AltLd O/S - 30/Oct/11

First led this climb in the 1970s. Jeremy Clarkson would have declared it as a 'damp track' today. We climbed it cleanly and efficiently but without much joy. Both of us preferred Mealystopheles - which we enjoyed after lunch.
Falko - AltLd rpt - 23/Oct/11 with Al W.

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Sep/11

Cool stuff. Led 2nd pitch. Failed to find the iron spike (tip - its not in the grass!) so had to use a tree. Done in the rain and polish made absolutely no difference, try climbing at Stoney!
Joe Costello - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/11 with Matt

Led first pitch, slightly damp but dried out quick and didn't really make any difference. Great route, massive holds all the way.
mattwyles1 - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/11 with Joe

daveyji - Lead O/S - Sep/11 with Linda Williamson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/11

Great climb in a superb situation
Andrew Lodge - AltLd - 22/Aug/11 with Steve

Led P2. Protected it entirely with hexes. Great.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/11 with J-Ro

John led both pitches
staceyjg - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/11 with John Lewis

Led P1. Nice fossil on the chockstone at the belay.
Will Hunt - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/11

Led Both Pitches
John Lewis - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Stacy

minaturechris - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Barra

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11

jamesgodwin64 - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Chiris Fox

Very Polished...! Top climb though..Defo 3 stars..!
Mike Hegarty - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/11 with Phil Craven

Polished to buggery but awesome 1st multi-pitch
philip1984 - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/11 with Mike Hegarty

polish only a problem on a couple of moves, felt solid
caradoc - AltLd - 03/Jul/11 with john b

Did in three pitches. Sam had no problems really, but I forgot my harness.... doh!
Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 18/Jun/11 with Sam James

Sam James - 2nd - 18/Jun/11 with Alan James - UKC

P1: Rachel, P2: Chi
Chi Cheng - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Rachel Stater

lead pitch 1
Rachel Slater - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Chi Huo Cheng

Helen untied frome the rope on the belay had to absail to rescue!
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 02/Jun/11 with H washbrook

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/May/11

Hidden - Lead - 21/May/11

biobuild - 2nd O/S - 18/May/11

madasten - 2nd - 02/May/11 with Miquel

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Apr/11

LukeP LCC - Lead rpt - 22/Apr/11 with rachael wragg, paul sexton

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/11 with Mel, Andy Shep

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/11

Straight up to Via Vita belay and finished up 'The Sinister Sinish. In one pitch.
metal arms - Lead - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/11

RiverRoam - 2nd β - 03/Apr/11 with Martin Wing

jacob first pitch,me second
buxtoncoffeelover - AltLd - 28/Mar/11

eazyclimbing - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/11 with hoppo

Led pitch one. Excellent route! Shame about the polish on the start of the first pitch. Luckily the second pitch made up for it.
BeccaSnowden - AltLd O/S - 12/Mar/11 with Andy

Mal Grey - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Lovely big shiny holds. Got to love your own reflection...
NB Pixel - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Richard Haszko

Dizz - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Simon P

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10

joese7en - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/10

GrantB - 15/Aug/10 with El Bailos

Luke lead first 18m pitch with me finishing off the route leading the second pitch 24m. This was my first ever multipitch climbing experience.
shkinitrep - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/10 with luke preston

led pitch 1 this time, felt harder than pitch 2. jamies first multipitch. managed to get it done between rain.
LukeP LCC - AltLd rpt - 04/Aug/10 with shkinitrep

led second pitch, good route on good rock bit polished!
LukeP LCC - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/10 with paul sexton, steve kirman

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jul/10

Haszko - AltLd - 03/Jul/10 with James Salter

1st pitch into Via Vita belay. V.pleasant.
Alex Thompson - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Ben Hull

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/10

BW - 1st pitch SP - 2nd pitch
Steve J P - AltLd - 20/Jun/10 with BW

1st pitch: bw 2nd pitch: sp
Bernie Wylde - AltLd - 20/Jun/10 with sp

five - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10 with TW

Fantastic!!!! one of the best peak lime routes i've done. The polished is no where near as bad as the guide implies and never affects the climbing. Spent ages not finding the mentioned spike in the guide at the top and end up belaying on solid rock on the last ledge, so either it was hidden in the grass or has been removed as it is unnecessary. Led the Hex-tastic brilliant second pitch :) THREE STARS!!!!!
Graeme Hammond - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/10 with Richard Williams

tigertim - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with James Noble

Brannock - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Annette

Hidden - 2nd - 31/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/10

Trobbo - AltLd - 20/May/10 with tony hulme, martin bennett

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/May/10

jon bradley - AltLd rpt - 15/May/10 with Huw Howells

Me P1, Danny P2.
hellboundblr - AltLd - 15/May/10 with Danny Smudge

Bron - 2nd O/S - 09/May/10 with Jez, Tom Stahl

bigphil - AltLd - 18/Apr/10 with Mark and Mike

Nice but very polished.
DannyK - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/10 with Christos

chrislgk - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/10 with Danny

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2010

I led the first pitch, then got rained off
MartinWilliams87 - Lead O/S - 2010

rich_hw - AltLd O/S - 2010

Ken Taylor - 2010

nickcanute - 2010

spqr - 2nd - 27/Sep/09 with Roger

Katie Marshall - AltLd - 20/Sep/09 with Pete Mac

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Sep/09

very polished, I did 2nd pitch
climbingxcat - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/09 with Brian

Ken led 1st pitch, I led 2nd pitch
Happy Wanderer - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/09 with Ken T

jimbonfire - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/09

A good lead!
Different Steve - 2nd rpt - 31/Aug/09 with Clare

led 1st pitch, polished, vegetated and loose.
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/09 with Charles Moreton

cem - AltLd rpt - 22/Aug/09 with Kirill Spiridonov

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Aug/09

daveinedale - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/08

As one pitch
dpmUK - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/08 with Seth

Brown 1st pitch, I led 2nd.
bridget143 - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/08 with Brown

dashitboarder - 2nd - 03/Aug/08 with Dad

Hidden - Lead - 03/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/08

gazfellows - AltLd - Jun/08 with shaun d

led 1st pitch. Scared big raptor off nest. Reported unfortunate event to bmc.
Alfredo - AltLd - May/08 with Ben H

b.hayley - AltLd O/S - May/08

Led first pitch
Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/08 with Alan

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/08

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

dan66 - AltLd O/S - 24/Oct/07 with Rory Guy

Different Steve - 2nd rpt - 15/Sep/07 with Nick Willis & John Buchan

Led 2nd pitch. We were disappointed by this route, perhaps we've been spoilt by Wildcat!
Whealiebob - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/07 with Terry

led bottom pitch. certainly the poorest 3 star route i ever climbed, loose holds everywhere, too polished, just not good. try a wildcat 1 star, its 20 times the quality.
Milne - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/07 with Dave

Matt led 1st. I led 2nd. Very polished, loose limestone.
jonny_098 - 2nd β - 29/Aug/07 with Matt Bazire

Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/07 with Andre & Adrian

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Jun/07

IanJackson - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/07 with Luke Hunt

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/07

Led 1st pitch (4b), seconded 2nd pitch (4b)
kingholmesy - AltLd O/S - 2007 with SJD

Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/06 with Jim Fraser

Hidden - 2nd - Nov/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/May/06

DerwentDiluted - Lead - 06/May/06 with Nicola Pettit

Hidden - AltLd - 01/May/06

Whitt - AltLd O/S - Aug/05 with Craig Woods

Both pitches 4b - I led first
Chris the Tall - AltLd - 31/Jul/05 with Simon Shaw

JohnHutch - Lead - 08/Jul/05 with L

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/05

Stig - AltLd O/S - 10/May/05 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Ramon Marin - Lead O/S - 05/May/05 with Ben Gilbert

Dave Mason - Lead O/S - May/05 with Andrew Roach

Ramon Marin - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/05 with Ben Gilbert

Hidden - Apr/05

Medusa 18mts VS 4b 3star Ravensdale (I led first pitch)
Mike Lee - Lead - 13/Jul/04 with Neil

jamie ward - AltLd - 08/Jun/04 with John Howes

MaccMark - AltLd - 05/Jun/04 with Val Young

led pitch 1
Sam and will - AltLd O/S - 15/May/04 with Anthony Bennett

rob.grafton - AltLd - 29/Sep/03 with Bruce

robin heath - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/03 with Carl Riley

Brown - Lead O/S - Jul/03

Led P1
Different Steve - AltLd O/S - Jul/03 with Martin Hore

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Apr/03

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 2003 with john d

Medusa 46mts VS 4b 4b Ravensdale (I led 2nd pitch)
Mike Lee - Lead - 25/Jul/02 with Neil

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Jul/02 with Efua

kato'sdad - AltLd - 27/Jun/01 with Rob Simpson

RobSimmo - AltLd - 27/Jun/01 with Jon Berry

Hidden - Lead - 11/Sep/00

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jul/00

EagerAndy - 2000

I led both pitches.
Phil West - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/99 with David Atherton

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - Sep/99 with Helen Rea

sdht - 1999

Hidden - AltLd - 1999

Me pitch 1, Rich pitch 2
Rich Malcolm - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/98 with Rich Hewitt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/98

Led p2
cem - AltLd O/S - 10/May/98 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Jan/98

Very Polished
Ian Archer - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/97 with Tony Morris

stokienomad - Lead - 05/Jun/97

ChrisJD - Lead - Jun/97 with ChrisC

Done this climb at least 5 times over the years. Fantastic.
Le Chevalier Mal Fet - AltLd - 24/Apr/97 with Richard Bower

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/96

tlr - Lead - 26/Jul/96 with Kim

barney@helmshore - 2nd - 09/Jun/96 with simon

Adrian Daniels - Lead - 22/Oct/95 with Bill Marsh

colin milton - AltLd - 19/Jul/95 with eric milton

brady - Lead - 29/May/95 with John Cameron

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - Lead - 07/Jul/93

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/93

Superb top pitch
Iain Thow - Lead - 12/Mar/93 with Christine King

Guy - 1993

SimonN - AltLd - 01/Jun/92

and again alt leads with Micheal 1999
jacque - 2nd - May/92 with Roger Martin

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Apr/92

date a guess
jamiev - AltLd O/S - 1992 with john Roberts

Roget - Solo O/S - 1992

Nick Rundall - Lead O/S - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 1990

AndrewP - AltLd - 1990

leathers - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/89 with Jane ?

Rog Wilko - Lead - Sep/88 with Debbie Wilkinson

John Marsland - 2nd - 11/Jun/88 with Darrell Small

dodders - 2nd - 26/Sep/87 with Dick Hargreaves

simon parish - 2nd - 1987 with Andrew Taylor

Kev led first pitch
Simon2005 - Lead O/S - Aug/85 with KevinL

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jul/85

babymoac - Lead - 23/Jun/85 with MTW

malc - Lead - 07/Mar/85

Steve Lenartowicz - 1985

andy gittins - 1985

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jun/84

shark - Lead O/S - 07/May/84 with Simon Matthews

Ian Clare - 1984

Pete Pozman - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/83 with Jeremy

John Marsland - Lead - 12/Sep/82 with George Rae and Alan

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/82

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/82

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Sep/82

mark-abz - AltLd - 08/May/82 with Walter P

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1982 with Rich Lewis

Nic Robinson - Solo O/S - 25/Jun/81

beaumap - Lead - Apr/81 with Martin Davis

Mike C - AltLd - 04/Oct/80 with Brian Wilderspin

andy tetsill - AltLd - Oct/80 with Whitehall Course

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 04/Apr/80 with Dave Page

johnkeith - 2nd - 1980 with Alex Agnew

Hidden - Lead - 1979

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/78

Chris Ellis - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/78 with Bridget Haigh, Patrick Meeds

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 26/Feb/77 with Sarah Bridge

Hidden - Lead - 30/Jan/77

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Aug/76

GeoffG - Lead - 12/Jun/76

Nigel Bond - Lead - 26/Oct/75 with John Derbyshire

rogerskews - AltLd - 1975 with Various

Andy Say - Lead O/S - 1975

Hidden - Lead - 1974

Hidden - Lead - 16/Aug/73

greenbuoy - AltLd - 27/Feb/72 with Bob Lister

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 18/Jul/71 with Bob Knapton

mikej - Lead - 28/Mar/71 with John Bickerdyke, E

lump'o'lead - 1971

bob@daysmill - AltLd O/S - 1970

David Smith - 1970

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
nrhardy, DanChad, Hidden, vix, Jon Pilling, Hidden, alexei.nicholas, Richard Alderton, Hidden, Hidden, tobydunford, Hidden, PanzerHanzler, Hidden, barrylong

Voting
Total votes cast 181
hard HVS0 of 62
HVS0 of 62
easy HVS0 of 62
hard VS1 of 62
VS55 of 62
easy VS6 of 62
hard HS0 of 62
HS0 of 62
easy HS0 of 62
hard 4c0 of 58
4c1 of 58
easy 4c5 of 58
hard 4b15 of 58
4b31 of 58
easy 4b6 of 58
hard 4a0 of 58
4a0 of 58
easy 4a0 of 58
3 Stars24 of 61
2 Stars22 of 61
1 Star10 of 61
0 Stars3 of 61
Bag of .....2 of 61
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 280 (0.7%)
Lead92 of 280 (32.9%)
Followed38 of 280 (13.6%)
Alt Leads123 of 280 (43.9%)
Unknown25 of 280 (8.9%)

'Climbed'126 of 280 (45.0%)
clean O/S141 of 280 (50.4%)
clean β2 of 280 (0.7%)
clean rpt10 of 280 (3.6%)
dogged1 of 280 (0.4%)