UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is owned and managed by Natural England and located in the Derbyshire Dales National Nature Reserve.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

2024 - From 29th February onwards the restriction is in place for the whole crag due to nesting Peregrines (and Ravens). If possible the restriction will be reduced once the Peregrine's nest site can be confirmed. Please check back here for further updates.

48m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine finish via the hanging prow out in space provides the highlight. Short-lived but thrilling and very exposed.
1) 4b, 26m. Follow the slippery flake of Medusa to the shattered wall, then continue up the steep groove to reach a cramped stance on the slabby gangway. The way on is where you don't want it to be; out into space.
2) 5c, 22m. Climb up the ramp a little way then swing right and up to a tiny ledge. Gain the undercut crack on the right with difficulty and follow it to the top. Well protected but wild. © Rockfax

FA. John Loy, D Mellor (1 pt. of aid) 1960. FFA. (Direct Finish) Chris Jackson 1976.

Ticklists

The Peak: Past and Present , World Graded List , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Definitive *** Peak Lime , On Peak Rock , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
MatthewK 29 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Peg safely held a fall from the crux :-)
Show beta
βeta: Peg safely held a fall from the crux :-)
Al Evans 15 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A great effort by John in 1960 with one point of aid. The crag was virttually unclimbed on at that time.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A great effort by John in 1960 with one point of aid. The crag was virttually unclimbed on at that time.
roger whetton 22 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I'd say that you've got The Sinister Finish right at mild E1 5b (and I'd also say, if I dare, that its better than the ordinary finish!)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'd say that you've got The Sinister Finish right at mild E1 5b (and I'd also say, if I dare, that its better than the ordinary finish!)
Mick B 5 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Glad to see it upgraded here.The step right never felt like HVS 5b.
Show beta
βeta: Glad to see it upgraded here.The step right never felt like HVS 5b.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 29
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
George

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Dovedale)

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