Via Vita* E1 5c
48m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine finish via the hanging prow out in space is the highlight. Short-lived but thrilling and very exposed.
1) 4b, 26m. Follow the slippery flake of Medusa to the shattered wall, then continue up the steep groove to reach a cramped stance on the slabby gangway. The way on is where you don't want it to be; out into space.
2) 5c, 22m. Climb up the ramp a little way then swing right and up to a tiny ledge. Gain the undercut crack on the right with difficulty and follow it to the top. Well protected but wild.
The Sinister Finish, E1 5b - From the small ledge it is also possible to head left to a crack. Even more exposed. © ROCKFAX

FA. John Loy, D Mellor (1 pt. of aid) 1960. FFA. (Direct Finish) Chris Jackson 1976

Ticklists: The Peak: past and Present, World Graded List, Peak Rock/10/White Life.

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This climb is in 89 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/15

Hidden - 2nd dog - 13/Sep/15

theotherpetehill - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/15 with Chris Allan

chrisallan - AltLd dog - 04/Aug/15

pulseroom - 2nd - 23/Jul/15 with MarcinGobczynski

sgl - AltLd - 24/Jun/15 with Bart

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/15

bullwinkle - 2nd dog - 07/Sep/14 with Jon

Lead P2, the final section is brilliant. Amazing climbing and exposure.
James Oswald - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/14 with Clare Erskine

Linked to two pitches. Great exposure over a quite awkward to gain crack. Really cool climb.
DanielGyi - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/13 with Hamish Legge

Dan linked both pitches. The awkward move right off the small ledge was scary and hard, but satisfying
hlegge - 2nd O/S - 07/Aug/13 with Dan Gyi

Led P2. Amazing exposure.
James Oakes - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Brad Cowley

braders94 - 2nd O/S - 06/Jul/13 with James Oakes

Second attempt at this route. Clean first time this time. Very good route.
jayrenegade - AltLd RP - 15/Sep/12 with Prav

Jake Young - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/12 with Nick

P2, Direct
Nick1812P - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/12 with Jake

Dale P1 Me P2. Well this kicked my butt. Finnshed up medusa after falling on the peg a few times. Tried it on top rope afterwards and think that I probably needed more laybacking less face holds... I'll be back.
jayrenegade - AltLd dnf - 01/Sep/12 with Dale

nice climbing and good positions but only 1 remotely hard move (5b - just need to be able to jam) which is very well protected. not sure that makes it worth e1
Alex@home - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/12 with The Doctor

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jun/12

Excellent wild 2nd pitch (led) seemed tough E1 5b*** rather than 5c
Graeme Hammond - AltLd O/S - 13/May/12 with Richard Williams

Fragmod - AltLd dog - 04/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12

Thrillingly exposed. lead pitch 1
disturbed_one51 - AltLd - 04/Jun/11 with Wee man

Lead P2, felt pretty wild.
Jonathan Hall - AltLd - 04/Jun/11 with Mark Williams

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/11

Superb, cracking exposure adds spice on the crux moves. Shame that the difficulties are short lived.
smudge - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/10 with John St Leger

rikbattye - 2nd - 31/Aug/10

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/10 with Rik

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jun/10

Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/10 with Dan Wicks

Hard sequence up from the laced cracked roof, which is best done as a runout. Required some quick thinking to avoid dogging
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 24/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/May/10

direct, led p1
tom.e - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Pete

nickcanute - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/09

Weighted the rope twice
MD - 2nd dog - 19/Sep/09 with Ian B, Misha

Pumped out after placing gear so couldn't quite do the rockover move onto the right foot and had to have a rest (small fall). Did it easily after a rest on the ledge.
Misha - Lead dog - 19/Sep/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/09

Very Good. More HVS
IanJackson - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/07 with Luke Hunt

Very bold crux to Via Vita. Had to back off as I spent far too long hanging on one arm trying to find the right size friend and got pumped to hell. The 5b alternative finish wasn't too bad and managed to finish! TBC...
Barney - Lead dnf - 29/Apr/07 with MGrist

sinister finish
Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - Oct/06 with Richard

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - Apr/06 with Andy

Neil Ireson - Lead - Jul/05 with Guy M

cem - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/04 with Graham Dolman

Couldn't commit to the crux groove, so tension traversed back to Medusa & finished up that. Chris dropped a hex into the nettles below & we couldn't find it. Bumbled off to the pub.
Phil West - AltLd dnf - 31/May/03 with Chris Tan

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 2003 with john d

Brown - Lead O/S - Jul/00

The Sinister Finish
cem - Lead O/S - 06/May/00 with James Gregory

Failed on normal finish but did Sinister finish at E1 5b.
marcoleptic - Lead β - 2000

Andy Edgar - 2000

Louise led the hard pitch
Chris Ellis - AltLd - 22/Aug/98 with Louise Pellett

Pitch 2
Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/98 with Mark Walker

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Jun/97

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Nov/96

craig h - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/96 with Rick W and Janet Hannah

Budge - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/96 with Mike Oates

went off route near the top and got too knackered
brady - 2nd dog - 1996 with John Cameron, Dave Greenway

AlanLittle - AltLd - Jul/95 with Carl Blakeley

Hidden - 1995

mark-abz - Lead - 21/May/90 with Phil R

steve prior - AltLd - Jun/89 with Rob W

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/89

AndrewP - Lead - 1989

John Marsland - 2nd - 11/Jun/88 with Darrell Small

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/88

Did the Direct Finish
KRB - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/86 with Mike Bridges

Hidden - Lead - 07/Jul/85

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Jul/85

Steve Lenartowicz - 1985

andy gittins - 1985

Ian Clare - 1984

direct finish
Mark Kemball - 2nd - 12/Apr/83 with Dave Kenyon

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/82

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Sep/82

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1982 with Rich Lewis

Mark Kemball - Lead - 15/Nov/81 with Nevil Hewitt

Nic Robinson - Solo O/S - 25/Jun/81

tapley - Lead - 16/May/81 with Alison Tapley

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jan/81

Hidden - Lead - 1981

Chris Terrey - AltLd - 05/Jul/80 with Pete Hevezi

Hidden - Lead - 05/Apr/80

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 04/Apr/80 with Dave Page

Nigel Bond - Lead - 26/Jun/76 with Andy Brown

petemeads - Lead - 05/Nov/75

mikej - Lead - 31/Oct/71 with E

uphillnow - 1970

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:

Total votes cast 69
hard E20 of 23
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hard E13 of 23
E116 of 23
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean RP