Mealystopheles* VS 5a
46m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 5a, 22m. Start at a shallow groove to the left of the toe of the buttress and climb this and enter the awkward left-facing groove above. Follow the continuation groove to the terrace and a belay.
2) 4c, 24m. Follow Mealy Bugs, but once in the scoop, traverse round the arete and finish up the wide crack that lurks there. This is awkward to start but soon eases. © ROCKFAX

FA. Bob Dearman, Rod Brown 1965
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This climb is in 73 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

The start of the first pitch is uber polished. My feet slipped and I fell off twice in the first 10 feet. Crampons would help. Finally managed a clean ground up ascent. Led both pitches. Warrants one star max.
Andrew Sloan - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/15 with Tim

Led pitch 2. Really fun climb.
DanChad - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/15 with Paul Deane

Good climbing on both pitches, with fine exposure stepping round to the finishing crack. Led P2.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/14 with Rob

FlavioL1989 - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/14 with Rob Edwards

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/14

Enjoyed the exposure high up, Good Route.
sting - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/14 with kwaidy

rich_hw - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Matt

max_chan - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Richard Williams

led both pitched, good route
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/14 with Pete aka Dad

found the fist pitch moving through the little roof and above it nails! fist limestone day of the year but surely i missed something here - have climbed easier e1's!
jmills94 - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/14 with colin

keith leonard - AltLd - 03/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/13

Tamati - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13

JRigby - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/13

Led pitch one, broke a hold at the crux, tried to rescue it using some sidepulls and came off. My hand skimmed the rope and ended up with quite bad ropeburn on palm. Had to finish the pitch with that little issue...
Alkis - Lead dog - 30/Jul/12 with Chris Aslin

HB1 - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/12 with BB

led P2
cragtyke - AltLd - 07/Apr/12 with john g

First led this climb in the 1970s. Repeated it today after Medusa. Enjoyed this climb far more! First pitch (5a) was nicely sustained and required thought. Second pitch was a little chossy up to the traverse around the arete but thereafter was delightful - great exposure up the final groove. Good protection throughout (but there seem to be different spellings of the route name in this database and elsewhere).
Falko - Lead rpt - 23/Oct/11 with Al W.

Then finished up Mealy Bugs as it looked a bit better.
Will Hunt - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Dan Matthewman

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/11

biobuild - 2nd - 09/Aug/11

marcoleptic - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/11 with Andy Shep

Led P2. Whole thing a bit wobbly.
mark20 - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/11

P1. Chossy fun.
JRae - Lead - 14/Jun/11 with M Rankie, Molly G

Hidden - 2011

Haszko - AltLd - 03/Jul/10 with James Salter

peter myers - AltLd O/S - Jun/10 with Mat Dalby

Ken Taylor - 2010

nickcanute - 2010

nickcanute - 2010

Ketu - AltLd rpt - 25/Aug/09 with Nigel

tri-nitro-toulumne - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/09 with Rob Truckle

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Aug/09

bigphil - AltLd O/S - 24/May/09 with Toby

Obi-Wan is lost... - AltLd - 24/May/09 with Phil

MD - AltLd - 12/Apr/09 with Misha

First pitch only.
thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 26/Jan/09 with Alan

Hadn't climbed any limestone in quite some time so found it very tricky to read! All the holds which would be huge on grit are pretty worthless without friction! Pretty tricky for VS but what do I know eh? Tricky move through the overlap, and then the section above that is harder. Glad to get through this without scaring myself too much! Just presumed it should be easy as its VS and got on with it!
Reaver2k - Lead O/S - 26/Jan/09 with Tom Dixon

Hidden - 2009

morganator - Lead O/S - 09/May/08 with Peter Folkman

Led the first (crux) pitch. Huge block came off about halfway up. Quentin managed to get out of the way but worrying moments.
tatz45 - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/07 with Quentin O'Brien

Led P1
Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/07 with Simon Curtis

Led p1
cem - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/06 with Sally Dipple

colin milton - 2nd - 07/Jul/06 with pep & graham

Ramon Marin - Lead O/S - 2005 with Gavin Lim

rob.grafton - AltLd - 29/Sep/03 with Bruce

Hidden - AltLd RP - 20/Aug/03

Andy Edgar - 2000

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/99

I lead the first pitch - 5a
Chris the Tall - AltLd - Aug/97 with Bill G

Led the 1st pitch
Le Chevalier Mal Fet - AltLd - 24/Jun/97 with Richard Bower

Trobbo - 2nd - 18/Apr/97 with john blower

Rog Wilko - Lead - Jul/91 with Debbie Wilkinson

Led pitch one. Also led pitch two in march 1993 with Ron Caves
leathers - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/90 with Caroline Whitehead

Nick Rundall - Lead O/S - 1990

steve prior - Lead - Jun/89 with Rob W

Andy Say - Lead O/S - 14/May/88

Hidden - Lead - 1987

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Apr/84

Ian Clare - 1984

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/82

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Sep/82

MikeDowsett - Lead - 1981 with Jon Sharpe

Pitch 1 only
Mike C - 2nd - 04/Oct/80 with Brian Wilderspin

tapley - Lead - 16/Aug/80 with Alison Tapley

Hidden - Lead - 05/Apr/80

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 04/Apr/80 with Dave Page

Hidden - Lead - 1980

Nigel Bond - Lead - 06/Jul/79 with Martin Crosby

mikej - Lead - 01/Sep/76 with E

mikej - Lead - 04/Sep/71 with E

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 18/Jul/71 with Bob Knapton

Total votes cast 56
hard HVS0 of 20
HVS0 of 20
easy HVS4 of 20
hard VS10 of 20
VS6 of 20
easy VS0 of 20
hard HS0 of 20
HS0 of 20
easy HS0 of 20
hard 5b0 of 18
5b0 of 18
easy 5b0 of 18
hard 5a4 of 18
5a14 of 18
easy 5a0 of 18
hard 4c0 of 18
4c0 of 18
easy 4c0 of 18
3 Stars2 of 18
2 Stars6 of 18
1 Star8 of 18
0 Stars2 of 18
Bag of .....0 of 18
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