46m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 5a, 22m. Start at a shallow groove to the left of the toe of the buttress and climb this and enter the awkward left-facing groove above. Follow the continuation groove to the terrace and a belay.
2) 4c, 24m. Follow Mealy Bugs, but once in the scoop, traverse round the arete and finish up the wide crack that lurks there. This is awkward to start but soon eases. © Rockfax

FA. Bob Dearman, Rod Brown 1965

Andrew Sloan 27/Jun Lead O/S

The start of the first pitch is uber polished. My feet slipped and I fell off twice in the first 10 feet. Crampons would help. Finally managed a clean ground up ascent. Led both pitches. Warrants one star max.

with Tim
DanChad 25/Jun AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2. Really fun climb.

with Paul Deane
Andy Clarke 28/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Good climbing on both pitches, with fine exposure stepping round to the finishing crack. Led P2.

with Rob
FlavioL1989 31/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Rob Edwards
Hidden 16/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
sting 16/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Enjoyed the exposure high up, Good Route.

with kwaidy
rich_hw 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Matt
max_chan 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S


Graeme Hammond 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S

led both pitched, good route

with Pete aka Dad
jmills94 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S

found the fist pitch moving through the little roof and above it nails! fist limestone day of the year but surely i missed something here - have climbed easier e1's!

with colin
keith leonard 03/Jun/14 AltLd
Hidden 28/Sep/13 AltLd
Hidden 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Tamati 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
JRigby 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Alkis 30/Jul/12 Lead dog

Led pitch one, broke a hold at the crux, tried to rescue it using some sidepulls and came off. My hand skimmed the rope and ended up with quite bad ropeburn on palm. Had to finish the pitch with that little issue...

HB1 26/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with BB
cragtyke 07/Apr/12 AltLd

led P2

with john g
Falko 23/Oct/11 Lead rpt

First led this climb in the 1970s. Repeated it today after Medusa. Enjoyed this climb far more! First pitch (5a) was nicely sustained and required thought. Second pitch was a little chossy up to the traverse around the arete but thereafter was delightful - great exposure up the final groove. Good protection throughout (but there seem to be different spellings of the route name in this database and elsewhere).

with Al W.
Will Hunt 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Then finished up Mealy Bugs as it looked a bit better.

Hidden 14/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
biobuild 09/Aug/11 2nd
marcoleptic 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
mark20 14/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Whole thing a bit wobbly.

JRae 14/Jun/11 Lead

P1. Chossy fun.

with M Rankie, Molly G
Hidden ??/2011 -
Haszko 03/Jul/10 AltLd
with James Salter
peter myers ?/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Mat Dalby
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
nickcanute ??/2010 -
nickcanute ??/2010 -
Ketu 25/Aug/09 AltLd rpt
with Nigel
tri-nitro-toulumne 25/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Rob Truckle
Hidden 16/Aug/09 AltLd
bigphil 24/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Toby
Obi-Wan is lost... 24/May/09 AltLd
with Phil
MD 12/Apr/09 AltLd
with Misha
thomasadixon 26/Jan/09 2nd O/S

First pitch only.

with Alan
Reaver2k 26/Jan/09 Lead O/S

Hadn't climbed any limestone in quite some time so found it very tricky to read! All the holds which would be huge on grit are pretty worthless without friction! Pretty tricky for VS but what do I know eh? Tricky move through the overlap, and then the section above that is harder. Glad to get through this without scaring myself too much! Just presumed it should be easy as its VS and got on with it!

Hidden ??/2009 -
morganator 09/May/08 Lead O/S
with Peter Folkman
tatz45 24/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

Led the first (crux) pitch. Huge block came off about halfway up. Quentin managed to get out of the way but worrying moments.

with Quentin O'Brien
Different Steve 02/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

Led P1

with Simon Curtis
cem 06/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

Led p1

with Sally Dipple
colin milton 07/Jul/06 2nd
Ramon Marin ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Gavin Lim
rob.grafton 29/Sep/03 AltLd
with Bruce
Hidden 20/Aug/03 AltLd RP
Andy Edgar ??/2000 -
Hidden 24/Jul/99 2nd O/S
Chris the Tall ?/Aug/97 AltLd

I lead the first pitch - 5a

with Bill G
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 24/Jun/97 AltLd

Led the 1st pitch

with Richard Bower
Trobbo 18/Apr/97 2nd
with john blower
Rog Wilko ?/Jul/91 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
leathers 12/Oct/90 AltLd O/S

Led pitch one. Also led pitch two in march 1993 with Ron Caves

with Caroline Whitehead
Nick Rundall ??/1990 Lead O/S
steve prior ?/Jun/89 Lead
with Rob W
Andy Say 14/May/88 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1987 Lead
Hidden 29/Apr/84 2nd
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
charlesmfrench 12/Sep/82 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/82 2nd
MikeDowsett ??/1981 Lead
with Jon Sharpe
Mike C 04/Oct/80 2nd

Pitch 1 only

tapley 16/Aug/80 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Hidden 05/Apr/80 Lead
Bruce Kerr 04/Apr/80 Lead
with Dave Page
Nevil ??/1980 Lead
Nigel Bond 06/Jul/79 Lead
with Martin Crosby
Rob Davies 07/Jul/78 Lead
with Angus McLean
mikej 01/Sep/76 Lead
with E
mikej 04/Sep/71 Lead
with E
Dave Musgrove 18/Jul/71 AltLd
with Bob Knapton
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 20
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set