Dorset > Blacknor Beach >
Avoid the Crack** HVD 4a

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10m. On the end of the seaward face of triple slabs is a large diagonal crack . Climb verticaly up the face avoiding 'walking' up the crack, crossing it about 1/3 of the way up, and then head for a seaward edge, and continue to the sumit where an old bolt offers some protection, but a sling around the peak of the slab would be better. The crack offers good protection with a set of larger cams at the base. A good looking horizontal crack half way up the slab above the crack looks from the bottom to offer good protection, but the top layer seems to have cope loose, however there are a few small areas for micro nuts towards the top - this lack of protection towards the top gives it the higher trad grade, while the tech grade is reasonably low - a good climb to a good view point noless. - Decent is either by 'walking' off the rear of lowing off the top of 'The Bolt Factory' next door
J Cronin 21/Aug/2011

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This climb is in 2 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

tom parsons - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/12 with James Barry

First Ascent - little protection at the top as I found out, and just had to 'push on'
jamescronin - Lead O/S - 2011

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