Purple Haze** E1 5b
46m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine climb with a good open finish, high on the wall. Start by the thorn tree under a left-facing flake, leading to an overhang.
1) 5b, 22m. A thin flake, overhang and groove above lead awkwardly to easier grooves and the terrace.
2) 5a, 24m. Follow the wide flake-crack from the terrace, then the fine steep wall and corner to finish. © ROCKFAX

FA. Bob Dearman, D.Riley (2 pts of aid) 1970
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This climb is in 108 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Robin Nichols - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/15 with Roger

Nice first pitch, found second pitch a bit too loose to be fun.
Roget - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/15 with robin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/15

Stupidly lead the bottom pitch of this then the crux pitch of Mephistopheles by accident which was a shock. Made for a really good route though, far more direct.
Jonathan Hall - Lead - 13/Sep/15 with Rob Middleton

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/15

A couple of stiff moves on the first pitch, with slippery feet but solid hands. A bit unsure of the line on P2 after the wide crack, but I went rightish of the tree, and seemed to make sense.
ChrisBrooke - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/15 with Duncan Bell

BTphonehome - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/15 with Tony

tmawer - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/15 with Bram

robgixer - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/15

I found the first pitch fairly straight forward, more like HVS 5a and easier than the polished first pitch of Mealystophyles!. I erroneously went right at the top of pitch 1 and had to back track over to the left. Really nice upper wall.
Andrew Sloan - Lead rpt - 27/Jun/15 with Tim

didn't do the second pitch, but need to record that I did the first pitch. Also did Mephistopholes again, did some gardening on the 2nd pitch which will help as they are the crux holds which had grassed over, no wonder it was difficult last time.
danielroymoss - TR - 08/Jun/15

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Sep/14

Good climbing and good gear on the crux
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 11/Sep/14 with phill ukc

the power - AltLd - 11/Sep/14 with Andy

James Oswald - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/14 with Clare Erskine

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/14

Sustained crux, only just kept it together. Led as one pitch.
Jim Slater - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/14 with Graeme Hammond

Did not see it as easy E1 myself but then not done that much trad recently. First pitch a bit goey, seconded second pitch
Gambit - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/14 with Royston

the power - Lead dnf - 08/Jun/14 with deacon

Hidden - Lead - 31/May/14

Mackie ran two pitches together as one, I thought the crux was in the second half?
dr_botnik - 2nd dog - 08/Aug/13 with Mackie, Adrian

in one top pitch of Mephistopheles I think
admackie - Lead - 08/Aug/13 with rob

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/13

JEP - Lead - 11/Jun/13

Led first pitch. Very soft at E1.
James Oakes - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Bill Lawrence

Bill Lawrence - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with oaksi2

P2. awsome route- think E1 is a better grade though.
john lynch - AltLd O/S - 18/Feb/13 with Lewis Andrew

Jake Young - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/12 with Nick

P1, in the dark
Nick1812P - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/12 with Jake

wonder if a more logical and consistent route would be to do 2nd pitch of mephistopheles? might have to go back and find out
Alex@home - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/12 with The Doctor

E1 in my opinion, 5b move at start of strenuous and steep extended crux sequence, great gear tho.
marcoleptic - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/12 with Alan

Led P2'. Think I need to lead the first pitch to get the proper tick.
Jim Slater - AltLd rpt - 15/Apr/12 with Chris Hindley

led P2/3
cragtyke - AltLd - 07/Apr/12 with john g

Joe led first pitch, i ended up leading most of the second pitch of mephistopheles as we weren't sure on the line and it seemed the best way to go. Couple of spicy moves then eases.
mattwyles1 - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/11 with Joe

Pitch 1 - E1 5b and not soft at that. Felt the belay on the terrace was a bit poor so used the tree above instead.
Joe Costello - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/11 with Matt

Luke lead 1st pitch, i lead 2nd.
aretherenoneleft - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/11 with Luke Addison

I led 2nd pitch, fantastic!
g1m147 - AltLd - 15/Jul/11 with Mick.

P1: Chi, p2: Rachel
Chi Cheng - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Rachel Stater

lead pitch 2
Rachel Slater - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Chi Huo Cheng

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/May/11

Led both pitches. Pretty spicy leaving the break on the first pitch! Had a bit of an epic getting lost on route whilst the light was fading. Superb final pitch.
Lxaddison - Lead RP - 23/Apr/11 with Paul Addison

Pitch 2
metal arms - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/11

Lead second pitch, thought it felt a bit soft for E1... Good but probs not worth 2 star.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 12/Mar/11 with Mike

First pitch is definitely E1. Excellent climb, did top pitch in the rain...
smudge - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/10 with John St Leger

Excellent crux moves, clearly E1 but with good gear below you. led as one big pitch which made it even better 3 stars combination??? (only just enough rope with my not quite 50m rope)
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/10 with Jim

JRae - 2nd - 09/Jul/10 with Alan

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jun/10

PippaJ - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/10 with Dan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/10

Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/10 with Dan Wicks

tom.e - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Pete

nickcanute - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/09

Martin Haworth - Lead rpt - 20/Sep/09 with scott

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/09

jimbonfire - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/09

found p1 very tough. rested on gear once.
duzinga - AltLd - 28/Jun/09 with Pete

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jun/09

simonp - Lead O/S - Jun/09 with Ivan Green

Adam1973 - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Big Ian

Very nice P1, definitely E1 though good gear. On P2 at the small break with a peg in it traversed left into the wide crack of Mealystopheles / Mephistopheles as thought the route went that way. This section (including getting to the small break) felt quite hard for 5a!
Misha - Sent O/S - 12/Apr/09

Mick leads the first pitch and lead the second. + Nick. Lovely sunny afternoon.
Tony Holdsworth - 2nd rpt - 12/Apr/09 with Mick Radford

lead the first pitch and Tony lead the second. + Nick first multi pitch in years
Mick r - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/09 with Tony and Nick

Superb route, E1.
Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09 with Shaun Walby

shaun walby - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/09 with Martin Haworth

Sankey - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Luke

thebigfriendlymoose - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Stephen

Brown - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/08 with Bridget

Brown led it all as one. Took line of blunt arete on top pitch which goes at E1. Hold at top came off in my hand. Sustained route for me!
bridget143 - 2nd O/S - 17/Aug/08 with Brown

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/08 with Gavin Singleton, Steve Carty

Hidden - Lead RP - Jun/08

daveagriff - 2nd - 2008

spacey - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/07 with paul evans

Coel Hellier - AltLd - 24/Jul/07 with Pat

Led P1. Very sustained crux section
Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/07 with Simon Curtis

Nicos - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/07 with rich mansfield

uphillnow - Lead - Sep/06 with Frank Horseman

Ben1983 - AltLd O/S - May/06

I led first pitch (5b), Simon the second (5a). Bottom end E1
Chris the Tall - AltLd - 31/Jul/05 with Simon Shaw

Neil Ireson - 2nd - Jul/05 with Guy M

found this quite tough. fair bit harder than conclusor - worth E1, good though. top pitch suberb rock and position
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 2005 with Tony Holdsworth

Led p1
cem - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/04 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - 2nd - 27/May/03

Andy Edgar - 2000

Andy Say - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/99

Louise led the hard pitch
Chris Ellis - AltLd - 31/May/98 with Louise Pellett

Budge - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/97 with Mike Oates

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Jul/95

Guy - 1993

Tony Little - AltLd O/S - 07/Dec/91 with Sam

steve prior - Lead β - Jun/89 with Rob W

Hidden - 2nd - 13/May/89

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/89

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jun/85

andy gittins - 1985

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Oct/82

Nic Robinson - Solo O/S - 25/Jun/81

Hidden - Lead - 30/Mar/81

Andy Stephenson - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/80

Chris Terrey - AltLd - 05/Jul/80 with Pete Hevezi

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 05/Apr/80 with Dave Page

Nigel Bond - Lead - 21/Jul/79 with Tony Cuddy

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 22/Apr/79 with Ian Grace

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
deacondeacon, mapperley samurai, Hoyes

Total votes cast 155
hard E20 of 54
E20 of 54
easy E20 of 54
hard E10 of 54
E15 of 54
easy E139 of 54
hard HVS6 of 54
HVS4 of 54
easy HVS0 of 54
hard 5c0 of 51
5c0 of 51
easy 5c0 of 51
hard 5b29 of 51
5b20 of 51
easy 5b0 of 51
hard 5a1 of 51
5a1 of 51
easy 5a0 of 51
3 Stars5 of 50
2 Stars38 of 50
1 Star7 of 50
0 Stars0 of 50
Bag of .....0 of 50
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP