46m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine climb with a good open finish, high on the wall. Start by the thorn tree under a left-facing flake, leading to an overhang.
1) 5b, 22m. A thin flake, overhang and groove above lead awkwardly to easier grooves and the terrace.
2) 5a, 24m. Follow the wide flake-crack from the terrace, then the fine steep wall and corner to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Bob Dearman, D.Riley (2 pts of aid) 1970

Robin Nichols 27/Sep 2nd O/S
with Roger
Roget 27/Sep Lead O/S

Nice first pitch, found second pitch a bit too loose to be fun.

with robin
Hidden 26/Sep Lead O/S
Jonathan Hall 13/Sep Lead

Stupidly lead the bottom pitch of this then the crux pitch of Mephistopheles by accident which was a shock. Made for a really good route though, far more direct.

Hidden 13/Sep 2nd O/S
ChrisBrooke 06/Sep AltLd O/S

A couple of stiff moves on the first pitch, with slippery feet but solid hands. A bit unsure of the line on P2 after the wide crack, but I went rightish of the tree, and seemed to make sense.

with Duncan Bell
BTphonehome 30/Aug AltLd O/S
with Tony
tmawer 30/Aug AltLd O/S
with Bram
robgixer 25/Jul Lead O/S
Andrew Sloan 27/Jun Lead rpt

I found the first pitch fairly straight forward, more like HVS 5a and easier than the polished first pitch of Mealystophyles!. I erroneously went right at the top of pitch 1 and had to back track over to the left. Really nice upper wall.

with Tim
danielroymoss 08/Jun TR

didn't do the second pitch, but need to record that I did the first pitch. Also did Mephistopholes again, did some gardening on the 2nd pitch which will help as they are the crux holds which had grassed over, no wonder it was difficult last time.

Hidden 27/Sep/14 2nd
Andy Peak 1 11/Sep/14 Lead

Good climbing and good gear on the crux

with phill ukc
the power 11/Sep/14 AltLd
with Andy
James Oswald 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S


with Clare Erskine
Hidden 07/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Jim Slater 19/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Sustained crux, only just kept it together. Led as one pitch.

Gambit 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Did not see it as easy E1 myself but then not done that much trad recently. First pitch a bit goey, seconded second pitch

with Royston
the power 08/Jun/14 Lead dnf


with deacon
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead
dr_botnik 08/Aug/13 2nd dog

Mackie ran two pitches together as one, I thought the crux was in the second half?

with Mackie, Adrian
admackie 08/Aug/13 Lead

in one top pitch of Mephistopheles I think

with rob
Hidden 25/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
JEP 11/Jun/13 Lead


James Oakes 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch. Very soft at E1.

Bill Lawrence 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with oaksi2
john lynch 18/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

P2. awsome route- think E1 is a better grade though.

with Lewis Andrew
Jake Young 05/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with Nick
Nick1812P 05/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

P1, in the dark

with Jake
Alex@home 25/Jul/12 2nd O/S

wonder if a more logical and consistent route would be to do 2nd pitch of mephistopheles? might have to go back and find out

with The Doctor
marcoleptic 28/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

E1 in my opinion, 5b move at start of strenuous and steep extended crux sequence, great gear tho.

with Alan
Jim Slater 15/Apr/12 AltLd rpt

Led P2'. Think I need to lead the first pitch to get the proper tick.

cragtyke 07/Apr/12 AltLd

led P2/3

with john g
mattwyles1 04/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Joe led first pitch, i ended up leading most of the second pitch of mephistopheles as we weren't sure on the line and it seemed the best way to go. Couple of spicy moves then eases.

with Joe
Joe Costello 04/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1 - E1 5b and not soft at that. Felt the belay on the terrace was a bit poor so used the tree above instead.

with Matt
aretherenoneleft 01/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Luke lead 1st pitch, i lead 2nd.

g1m147 15/Jul/11 AltLd

I led 2nd pitch, fantastic!

with Mick.
Chi Cheng 05/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

P1: Chi, p2: Rachel

Rachel Slater 05/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 2

Hidden 15/May/11 AltLd O/S
Lxaddison 23/Apr/11 Lead RP

Led both pitches. Pretty spicy leaving the break on the first pitch! Had a bit of an epic getting lost on route whilst the light was fading. Superb final pitch.

with Paul Addison
metal arms 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2

Hidden 19/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
thomasadixon 12/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch, thought it felt a bit soft for E1... Good but probs not worth 2 star.

with Mike
smudge 08/Sep/10 Lead O/S

First pitch is definitely E1. Excellent climb, did top pitch in the rain...

with John St Leger
Graeme Hammond 23/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Excellent crux moves, clearly E1 but with good gear below you. led as one big pitch which made it even better 3 stars combination??? (only just enough rope with my not quite 50m rope)

with Jim
JRae 09/Jul/10 2nd


with Alan
Hidden 27/Jun/10 AltLd
PippaJ 27/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Dan
Hidden 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 25/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Somerset swede basher 21/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Dan Wicks
tom.e 24/Apr/10 AltLd O/S


with Pete
nickcanute ??/2010 -
Hidden 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Martin Haworth 20/Sep/09 Lead rpt


with scott
Hidden 11/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
jimbonfire 07/Sep/09 Lead O/S
duzinga 28/Jun/09 AltLd

found p1 very tough. rested on gear once.

with Pete
Hidden 27/Jun/09 AltLd
simonp ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Ivan Green
Adam1973 26/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Big Ian
Misha 12/Apr/09 Sent O/S

Very nice P1, definitely E1 though good gear. On P2 at the small break with a peg in it traversed left into the wide crack of Mealystopheles / Mephistopheles as thought the route went that way. This section (including getting to the small break) felt quite hard for 5a!

Tony Holdsworth 12/Apr/09 2nd rpt

Mick leads the first pitch and lead the second. + Nick. Lovely sunny afternoon.

with Mick Radford
Mick r 12/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

lead the first pitch and Tony lead the second. + Nick first multi pitch in years

with Tony and Nick
Martin Haworth 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Superb route, E1.

shaun walby 15/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Martin Haworth
Sankey 27/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with Luke
thebigfriendlymoose 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Stephen
Brown 17/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Bridget
bridget143 17/Aug/08 2nd O/S

Brown led it all as one. Took line of blunt arete on top pitch which goes at E1. Hold at top came off in my hand. Sustained route for me!

with Brown
Jim Slater 19/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Gavin Singleton, Steve Carty
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead RP
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
spacey 11/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Coel Hellier 24/Jul/07 AltLd
with Pat
Different Steve 02/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Very sustained crux section

with Simon Curtis
Nicos 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with rich mansfield
uphillnow ?/Sep/06 Lead
with Frank Horseman
Ben1983 ?/May/06 AltLd O/S
Chris the Tall 31/Jul/05 AltLd

I led first pitch (5b), Simon the second (5a). Bottom end E1

Neil Ireson ?/Jul/05 2nd
with Guy M
Ram MkiV ??/2005 Lead O/S

found this quite tough. fair bit harder than conclusor - worth E1, good though. top pitch suberb rock and position

with Tony Holdsworth
cem 22/Aug/04 AltLd O/S

Led p1

Hidden 17/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/May/03 2nd
Andy Edgar ??/2000 -
Andy Say 04/Sep/99 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 31/May/98 AltLd

Louise led the hard pitch

with Louise Pellett
Budge 12/Jun/97 AltLd O/S
with Mike Oates
Hidden 16/Jul/95 2nd
Guy ??/1993 -
Tony Little 07/Dec/91 AltLd O/S
with Sam
Rob Davies 22/Jun/91 Lead dnf

P1 only, then rain

with Angus McLean
steve prior ?/Jun/89 Lead β
with Rob W
Hidden 13/May/89 2nd
Hidden 09/Apr/89 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/85 AltLd
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Hidden 31/Oct/82 2nd
Nic Robinson 25/Jun/81 Solo O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/81 Lead
Andy Stephenson 31/Aug/80 Lead O/S
Chris Terrey 05/Jul/80 AltLd
with Pete Hevezi
Bruce Kerr 05/Apr/80 Lead
with Dave Page
Nigel Bond 21/Jul/79 Lead
with Tony Cuddy
Mark Kemball 22/Apr/79 AltLd
with Ian Grace
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
deacondeacon, mapperley samurai, Hoyes, Hidden, Hidden
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 54
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 50
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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