UKC

Restricted Access

The Beeston Tor caves at the right-hand side of the crag are an important archaeological site and the landowner (The National Trust) do not want any disturbance to the caves themselves. The Trust has requested that if climbers at the crag notice any suspicious activity around the caves (eg digging, metal detecting, carrying equipment or bags to/from the caves etc), that they call 01335 350503 and leave a message with any details.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies from Flying Doctor The Thorn to Central Wall / Cleo's Mood inclusive (depending on which guidebook you are using).

52m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A wandering outing up the left flank of the cliff requires a bit of bushwhacking early on, although it improves with some nice climbing higher up. Start by a tree on the approach path.
1) 4a, 20m. Follow the cleaned line between vegetation to the second tree on the wall.
2) 4b, 15m. Trend right across the wall to a niche. Step right out of this, then climb the wall past a bulge to a good, sheltered stance at the break.
3) 4c, 15m. Step left and climb the awkward crack, then slabby rock leftwards to easy ground. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Peak Rock/10/White Life

Feedback

User Date Notes
NickAL 21 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent. Very few routes in the Peak provide this sort of position/exposure at this grade,(applies especially to the middle pitch). Nick Learmont
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent. Very few routes in the Peak provide this sort of position/exposure at this grade,(applies especially to the middle pitch). Nick Learmont

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Beeston Tor

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 28
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 29
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Central Climb

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Hen Cloud)

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