Staffordshire > Beeston Tor (Manifold Valley) >
 
Patience* HVS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Enough Time
 
The Beest >>
68m, 3 pitches. A reasonable start and finish are linked by some rock and a lot of vegetation in the upper half of the first pitch. 1) 5b, 28m. Climb the crack in the left wall of the slabby groove to bulges, then traverse left to easier rock. Graze up the rib and grotty terrain to a belay below cleaner rock. A tough pitch. The wall to the left gives a harder variant - The Direct Start, E2 5c. 2) 5a, 14m. Trend left up the wall to a niche, then climb up and slightly leftwards to belay in the cave. 3) 4c, 15m. Finish leftwards, as for West Wall Climb. © ROCKFAX
FA. Des Hadlum G.Smith (3 points) 1968
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 38 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Top half of the first pitch is horrible. Really loose and overgrown with not much bomber gear. Which is a shame as 2 nd are 3rd pitch are awesome!
chris smith - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/14

Hidden - 13/Apr/14

Climbed all the proper rock on P1, moved L and up round the arete to be confronted by a vertical field with embedded loose stones and disposable ivy stems. I did this route years ago and don't remember it being this bad. Found some good gear below the field, downclimbed from this to the thread with maillon where Patience leaves The Beest, lowered off this and abseiled later for the gear.
harold walmsley - Lead dnf - 27/Jun/13 with Colin Struthers

chrisbussell - 2nd - 08/May/13 with Tim O'Neill

climbed thorn then ab to pitch 2 belay, missed vertical grass section
keith leonard - AltLd - 08/May/13

mark20 - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/12

Jake Young - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Mark R

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Nov/11

Noodles30 - Lead rpt - 22/Sep/11

The first pitch was harder than expected then chossier than expected. We arrived at the belay to find peregrines nesting so gave up and built a lower off a bit off to the right. Probably best to avoid this til the birds have gone
sgl0jd - 14/Jul/11

JEP - AltLd - 22/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Nightmare first pitch. Was expexting 5a after The Thorn and got 5c. Getting to the second pitch was a nightmare with all the grass, but pitch two was fantastic..led p1 and p3
richardhopton - AltLd dog - 11/Sep/09 with Martin Cleaver

Martin Cleaver - 10/Sep/09 with Richard Hopton

Mark Dennison - Lead - 17/Jun/09

This is hard, the starting groove is 5c and the 2nd part of P1 is dangerous! P2 is delightful though....glad I did P2 not P1
SGD - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Rob Gray

rob1 - AltLd dog - 22/Mar/09 with Stu Day

horrendous finish to 1st pitch - mud & grass
nickdonohue - AltLd - 06/Apr/03 with Jim Barradale

Led p2
cem - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/01 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 2000

Duncan Bourne - 2nd - 09/Apr/95 with P Smalley

Colin Edwards - Lead - 07/Apr/95

1990?
Gary Coggon - AltLd O/S - 1990 with Mike Block

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/89

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/89

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Apr/86

5c direct start.
Mark Kemball - 2nd - 09/Feb/84 with Hugh Stuart

L,2,2.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/83

Gezzer - 1983 with Merv Dudley

David Smith - Lead - 1983

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Jul/82

Nic Robinson - AltLd O/S - 07/May/82 with Irish George

neilh - Lead - 1981

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/79

Hidden - AltLd - 13/May/79

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/77

Hidden - AltLd - Nov/75

mikej - AltLd - 06/Oct/73 with Geoff Williams

Voting
Total votes cast 23
hard E10 of 9
E10 of 9
easy E10 of 9
hard HVS2 of 9
HVS7 of 9
easy HVS0 of 9
hard VS0 of 9
VS0 of 9
easy VS0 of 9
hard 5b0 of 7
5b0 of 7
easy 5b6 of 7
hard 5a1 of 7
5a0 of 7
easy 5a0 of 7
hard 4c0 of 7
4c0 of 7
easy 4c0 of 7
3 Stars0 of 7
2 Stars0 of 7
1 Star3 of 7
0 Stars3 of 7
Bag of .....1 of 7
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Style of ascent

Lead12 of 38 (31.6%)
Followed5 of 38 (13.2%)
Alt Leads17 of 38 (44.7%)
Unknown4 of 38 (10.5%)

'Climbed'20 of 38 (52.6%)
clean O/S13 of 38 (34.2%)
clean rpt2 of 38 (5.3%)
dogged2 of 38 (5.3%)
dnf1 of 38 (2.6%)