UKC

Restricted Access

The Beeston Tor caves at the right-hand side of the crag are an important archaeological site and the landowner (The National Trust) do not want any disturbance to the caves themselves. The Trust has requested that if climbers at the crag notice any suspicious activity around the caves (eg digging, metal detecting, carrying equipment or bags to/from the caves etc), that they call 01335 350503 and leave a message with any details.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies from Flying Doctor The Thorn to Central Wall / Cleo's Mood inclusive (depending on which guidebook you are using).

68m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A reasonable start and finish are linked by some poor rock and a lot of vegetation in the upper half of the first pitch.
1) 5b, 28m. Climb the crack in the left wall of the slabby groove to bulges, then traverse left to easier rock. Graze up the rib and grotty terrain to a belay below cleaner rock. A tough pitch.
Direct Start, E2 5c - climb the vegetated crack to the left.
2) 5a, 14m. Trend left up the wall to a niche, then head up and slightly leftwards to belay in the cave.
3) 4c, 15m. Finish leftwards, as for West Wall Climb. © Rockfax

FA. Des Hadlum G.Smith (3 points) 1968.

Feedback

User Date Notes
GeorgT 18 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: WARNING: The first 15 metres of pitch 1 is climbed on rock. The rest of pitch one is a series of loose mud ledges with very little gear placements and solid ground to hold onto or stand on. Shame, as pitches 2 and 3 are climbable and enjoyable. Consider whether they are worth navigating loose rock and mud to access however.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: WARNING: The first 15 metres of pitch 1 is climbed on rock. The rest of pitch one is a series of loose mud ledges with very little gear placements and solid ground to hold onto or stand on. Shame, as pitches 2 and 3 are climbable and enjoyable. Consider whether they are worth navigating loose rock and mud to access however.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Beeston Tor

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 15
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Sloth

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Roaches Upper Tier)

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