Original Route HS 4a

Rockfax Description
Poor, but the easiest way up the tower, and one of the earliest limestone routes in the Peak. From the col at the back of the tower, traverse left and climb the loose grassy wall. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Poor - but the easiest way up the tower and one of the earliest limestone routes in the Peak. From the col at the back of the tower step on to the left (north) face and climb the loose grassy wall staying right of the deep crack at the top. The exposure at the top of the pitch and the view makes up for the gardening required. Easiest abseil is back down the route from the chain.

FA. Samuel Turner 1903 (aid from a top rope) FFA. Seigfreid Herford 1914

Ticklists: Peak Rock/1/ The 1st Peak District Tigers..

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This climb is in 28 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

As wet as wet can be glad i was on second:-)
Andy Peak 1 - 2nd - 30/Oct/14

Gopping wet and almost dark. Very tRAD!
Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/14 with Offshore Andy (from bamford)

gkrgeorge - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/14

Climbed to retrieve gear from last weekend. Nice to be on top of the rock again. Route was not as bad as expected. Well protected and not too loose.
gavinpeach - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/14 with Hellen

helin - 2nd - 25/Jul/14 with gavin

climbed this by myself which was foolish to say the least got stuck on a ledge for a long time which then began to crumble so had to back climb and traverse to get to another ledge was trying to put protection in off slings but wasn't always available, I actually fell at one point just lucky at the time I had some protection in,but then because it was stuck from the fall I had to disconnect from this to climb rest without protection very scary Abseiled back down my advise take someone to belay you.think this grade may have changed due to the loose rock.
craggy dave - Solo O/S - 05/May/13

sopaz - 2nd - 11/Aug/12

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Oct/11

climbingsteph - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Kibblewhite

Poor quality rock but worth doing if you're not an extreme leader to get a stupendous view up Dovedale and have a bit of fun. Felt very scary with the loose rock, vegetation and exposure at the top. However plent of gear opportunities.... I took them all!
Babika - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Jason Parker and Sue Jackson

GF - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/May/07

Loose but well protected slab. Felt quiet like a multi-pitch as had to arrange belay to stop second being pulled off ledge. Sense of exposure impressive as top is approximately 120' above river. Lots of difficulties getting rope back down! (involved another climb to free rope)
climbingrev - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/03

Hidden - Lead - 2003

Budge - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/00 with Nicky, Rich, Mike Oates

Hidden - Lead - May/98

sdht - 1998

DerwentDiluted - Lead - 11/Aug/96 with Laurie Smith

Ian Archer - Lead O/S - 17/May/95 with CDW

chris d williams - 17/May/95 with Ian Archer

Roget - 2nd O/S - 24/Mar/91 with casper

SimonN - Lead - May/90

Done to rescue Richards rope from Easter Island - led to party on the summit and moonlight abseil
Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - Oct/86

Ian Clare - 1985

Dave Musgrove - 14/Apr/68 with Paul Long, Dennis Gray, Bob Knapton

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Total votes cast 18
hard VS0 of 6
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hard 4a0 of 6
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hard 3c0 of 6
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S