Rockfax Description
Judge, jury and harsh taskmaster. A magnificent climb; the best in the valley. From the toe of the buttress, trend up and left following good finger holds and a line of threads. Swing down and left to access a steep groove and sprint up this to an old peg at its top. Swing left and, before gravity takes over, layback up into the welcome shade of the capping yew tree. © Rockfax

FA. Jack Street, Geoff Birtles (one rest) 1969

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, World Graded List, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
Kipper-Phil Smith 30/Aug Lead
Hidden 07/Jun 2nd dog
jimbonfire 30/May -
spidey 30/May Lead O/S

Brilliant! had to fight a bit, almost came off when the foot slipped near the peg!!

benw681 ?/Sep/14 -

Very brilliant, cruised the traverse but tactical error coming off into the groove and peg , got pumped and lost psyche and lowered/fell onto peg. Still a long way to go from there but best climb in Peak for me so far.

david morse 24/Aug/14 Lead rpt

Fell off this two years ago but went fine today. I did get a bit pumped in the top groove though. Outstanding route

Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead
Adam Long 03/Aug/14 Lead
Ben Bransby
Duncan Campbell 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Tricky! A lot of good handholds but poor feet a lot of the time on the hard sections. Very well protected for the most part though and you get really good rests in between the hard sections. Have wanted to do this for a while, it didn't disappoint!

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 05/Jul/14 2nd
Chriswallis2 29/Jun/14 Lead RP

Fell off first crux a few weeks ago and lowered off there from the thread. Felt good this time despite the rain. Great route, worth the hype.

belay bunny turned bad 17/May/14 Lead O/S

Amazing :-)

Hidden 17/May/14 2nd
Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
masa-alpin 31/Aug/13 Lead dog

Super hard - a hard crux (6b?) followed by very sustained 5c. Fell off at the crux, when a tiny hold broken off. After getting up again and somehow managed the crux this time, I needed a rest at the peg. Utterly pumped. Hardest route for me to day among those I attempted onsight and topped out.

Aidan M, Rob G
robgixer 31/Aug/13 2nd
markalmack 27/May/13 Lead O/S
Si dH 25/May/13 Lead dog

So so hard. Fell off passing the peg to reach the top, not even on a very hard move. Was on the route about 2.5 hours. Gutted.

captain ??/2013 -
ejected ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Dizz 22/Jul/12 2nd dog

Fell off the traverse - much prussicing ... next time!

Hugh T
mwatson 16/Jul/12 Lead O/S

surprisingly good, went wrong way at first

Jake Young 12/Jul/12 2nd dog

next time, top notch route though with cool moves.

david morse 13/May/12 Lead dog

Missed the good bit by the peg. Nails hard to read this route! Classsssic.

Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Bob ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2012 2nd
Tim Hill
Hidden 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/11 Lead
HamishD ?/May/11 Lead

Great route but fell on last few metres- tried to go straight up instead of left.

Chris Clarke
Dizz 27/Apr/11 2nd dog
Hidden 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Brown 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
switch 05/Sep/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 05/Sep/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 16/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 22/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Alex Mason 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S

The best route i have ever done, amazing from start to finish even the easy moves provide interest :D

Tom Martin
switch 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Brian Rodgers 28/Aug/08 Lead O/S

By the end i was pumped and had no gear. It was getting dark and was raining. Memorable.

Luke Brooks 14/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Matt Dalby
willackers 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S

What a quality route.

Tom Mills
fizzy_elephant 01/Sep/07 Lead O/S

seemed to take quite a while over it but got there in the end!

Lloyd Betsworth
Apharri ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Dave Wharton
Toby Dunn ??/2007 -
Ram MkiV 07/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Good gear, never desperate, very enjoyable. semi-cruised.

Alex Mason
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
ian caton ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
steve w
tuftynick ??/2003 Lead O/S
ben winston
Hidden 21/Sep/02 Lead dog
skygodley 27/Jul/02 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Martin Peters, Ian Smith
Marti999 ?/Jun/00 Lead β
goi.ashmore 14/May/00 Lead O/S

Unquestionably superb. In a heatwave!

Iain Fisher
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2000 Lead
philhilo ??/2000 -
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 -
ste_d 17/Jul/97 Lead O/S
mikedelderfield 01/Jun/97 Lead O/S
phardman ??/1997 -
Dave Douglas 04/Aug/96 Lead O/S
Ed Morgan
Hidden 13/Jul/96 Lead
andy_pemberton 12/May/96 Lead


Hidden 29/Jun/95 Lead rpt
Ian Jones ??/1995 Lead O/S

Very good.

Karen Ghiselli
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
steve taylor ??/1995 -
Cowflinger ?/Aug/94 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/94 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/94 Lead
Hidden 05/Jun/94 2nd
shark ??/1994 Lead
Hidden 13/Jun/93 Lead
Rich Kirby 14/Aug/92 2nd O/S
Roget 28/Sep/91 Lead O/S
g1m147 21/Jul/91 Lead O/S
John Farry
Hidden 29/Jun/91 Lead
Steve Crowe ?/Jun/91 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 17/Mar/90 Lead
keefe ??/1990 -
Dave Musgrove 09/Aug/89 Lead O/S

Best climb on limestone this year!

Dave Musgrove Jnr 09/Aug/89 2nd
Stoney Boy 06/Aug/89 Lead O/S
Colin Hughes
shark 22/Jul/89 Lead
Stu Bolton
Hidden ?/Jul/89 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/89 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May/89 Lead
Johnny Baker ??/1989 -
Derek Toulalan
Hidden 01/Oct/88 Lead
Hidden 25/Jul/87 2nd
John Marsland 11/Jul/87 2nd
Dave Soles
Hidden 24/May/87 2nd
Billg ??/1987 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden 21/Sep/86 2nd
sadams 31/Aug/86 Lead
Kevin Edwards
Hidden 27/Jul/86 Lead dog
Hidden ??/1986 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/85 2nd
Hidden 09/Jun/85 Lead
TonyF 01/May/85 -
andy gittins ??/1985 -
andybirtwistle 07/Jul/84 2nd
Mike Arnold
charlesmfrench 12/Apr/84 2nd RP

Led clean 21-8-1984

Hidden ??/1984 -
Gezzer ??/1983 Lead O/S
Ivan Machin 26/Jul/82 -
Jon Mellor
steve L 03/Jul/82 Lead O/S
Alan Dance, Alun Richardson
Mike Owen 16/May/82 -
Phil Ralph
Hidden ?/Jun/81 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/81 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 11/Apr/81 2nd
Bill McKee
Andy Edgar ??/1981 Lead O/S

Excellent route, hard to avoid putting your toe on the top peg!

Hidden ?/Jul/80 -
redjerry ?/Jun/80 Lead O/S
Roy Williamson
Hidden 06/Apr/80 Lead
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Colin Binks
petemeads ?/Aug/78 Lead O/S

An early free ascent - Livesey had claimed the first some time before. Exquisite, meandering route with pockets & threads, strenuous around the crux. Climbed with no information as nobody I knew had done it, probably because of its reputation at the time.

Steve Taylor
Hidden ??/1973 -
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 31
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set