Judge, jury and harsh taskmaster. A magnificent climb; the best in the valley. From the toe of the buttress, trend up and left following good finger holds and a line of threads. Swing down and left to access a steep groove and sprint up this to an old peg at its top. Swing left and, before gravity takes over, layback up into the welcome shade of the capping yew tree. © Rockfax
FA. Jack Street, Geoff Birtles (one rest) 1969
Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, World Graded List, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Ultimate E3 ticklist.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Brilliant! had to fight a bit, almost came off when the foot slipped near the peg!!
Very brilliant, cruised the traverse but tactical error coming off into the groove and peg , got pumped and lost psyche and lowered/fell onto peg. Still a long way to go from there but best climb in Peak for me so far.
|david morse||24/Aug/14||Lead rpt||
Fell off this two years ago but went fine today. I did get a bit pumped in the top groove though. Outstanding route
|Duncan Campbell||05/Jul/14||Lead O/S||
Tricky! A lot of good handholds but poor feet a lot of the time on the hard sections. Very well protected for the most part though and you get really good rests in between the hard sections. Have wanted to do this for a while, it didn't disappoint!
|Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing||05/Jul/14||2nd|
Fell off first crux a few weeks ago and lowered off there from the thread. Felt good this time despite the rain. Great route, worth the hype.
|belay bunny turned bad||17/May/14||Lead O/S||
Super hard - a hard crux (6b?) followed by very sustained 5c. Fell off at the crux, when a tiny hold broken off. After getting up again and somehow managed the crux this time, I needed a rest at the peg. Utterly pumped. Hardest route for me to day among those I attempted onsight and topped out.
Aidan M, Rob G
|Si dH||25/May/13||Lead dog||
So so hard. Fell off passing the peg to reach the top, not even on a very hard move. Was on the route about 2.5 hours. Gutted.
Fell off the traverse - much prussicing ... next time!
surprisingly good, went wrong way at first
|Jake Young||12/Jul/12||2nd dog||
next time, top notch route though with cool moves.
|david morse||13/May/12||Lead dog||
Missed the good bit by the peg. Nails hard to read this route! Classsssic.
|Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing||??/2012||2nd||
Great route but fell on last few metres- tried to go straight up instead of left.
|Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor||??/2011||-|
|Alex Mason||25/Jul/09||Lead O/S||
The best route i have ever done, amazing from start to finish even the easy moves provide interest :D
|Brian Rodgers||28/Aug/08||Lead O/S||
By the end i was pumped and had no gear. It was getting dark and was raining. Memorable.
|Luke Brooks||14/Jul/08||Lead O/S||
What a quality route.
seemed to take quite a while over it but got there in the end!
|Ram MkiV||07/Aug/06||Lead O/S||
Good gear, never desperate, very enjoyable. semi-cruised.
|ian caton||?/Jun/03||Lead O/S||
Martin Peters, Ian Smith
Unquestionably superb. In a heatwave!
|Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe||??/2000||Lead|
|Dave Douglas||04/Aug/96||Lead O/S||
|Ian Jones||??/1995||Lead O/S||
|Rich Kirby||14/Aug/92||2nd O/S|
|Steve Crowe||?/Jun/91||Lead O/S||
|Dave Musgrove||09/Aug/89||Lead O/S||
Best climb on limestone this year!
|Dave Musgrove Jnr||09/Aug/89||2nd|
|Stoney Boy||06/Aug/89||Lead O/S||
|William Robertson||??/1987||Lead O/S||
Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Led clean 21-8-1984
|steve L||03/Jul/82||Lead O/S||
Alan Dance, Alun Richardson
|Andy Edgar||??/1981||Lead O/S||
Excellent route, hard to avoid putting your toe on the top peg!
An early free ascent - Livesey had claimed the first some time before. Exquisite, meandering route with pockets & threads, strenuous around the crux. Climbed with no information as nobody I knew had done it, probably because of its reputation at the time.