UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

40m.

Rockfax Description
On the left-hand side of the face is a right-trending overlap giving good climbing and which would be worth a star if it wasn't for the approach. Start up Brutus then traverse left above the tree root to the overlap - loose, dirty and difficult to protect but easy moves. Follow the overlap until you can make a hard pull back left onto a grass ledge. Climb cracks above to the big niche, then trend up rightwards to the crest. © Rockfax

FA. Paul Nunn, Ken Jones 1970.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alan James - Rockfax 25 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: A desperate thrash to gain the start but then some good climbing up the right-trending flake and wall above. Could be a decent route but the start is awful.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A desperate thrash to gain the start but then some good climbing up the right-trending flake and wall above. Could be a decent route but the start is awful.

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
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Low HVS
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High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
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High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
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Route of Interest
Desperation

Grade: E1 6a ***
(Stanage Popular)

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