Restricted Access
The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
Climb John Peel for 4m then head up the wall to a break and traverse right to the solid tree runner. Step back left and climb straight up to the stance on John Peel. Abseil off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
It is unclear where this route actually went. The description in the 1981 Staffordshire guide says, "Traverse right to a sturdy tree runner on Yew Tree Wall, then move back left slightly and climb direct to the stance on John Peel". There are no holds left of Yew Tree Wall so this is impossible. Crazy Horse manages to climb the wall further left at a claimed 5c but is undoubtedly closer to 6a/b and that uses the only hold.
The most likely real line for Wild Bill is that is joined Yew Tree Wall from the tree to the small flake and then pulled left to the John Peel belay. This would actually be possible at the grade claimed and would be an okay, if slightly pointless line.
FA. John Codling, D Wiggan 1978.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovedale
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Five Finger Exercise
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Cratcliffe Tor)