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|Staffordshire > Dovedale Church (Dovedale) >|
|Tales of the Riverbank|| E5 6a|
<< American Style
|28m. A superb sustained pitch, on which the gear is perfect, but hard work to place. A loose wall (old peg and good small wires) leads to the bulge that guards the crack, pull over this then press on rapidly up the soaring line. A couple of bridged rests are available for the long legged but the ability to press on will be found of more use.
FA. Steve Read, Roy Leeming, Derek Carnell, Phil Brown, Steve Hunt 1950s © ROCKFAX|
FA. Steve Read, Roy Leeming, D.Carnell, P.Brown, S.Hunt 1950s. FFA (nearly) John Fleming, Chris Calow (1pt) 1978. FFA. Ron Fawcett 1978 1955
Ticklists: 100 best limestone climbs in Britain.
This climb is in 10 logbooks, and on no wishlists.
One rest point.
Brown - Lead - 22/Apr/11 with Lily
Surprisingly difficult to stop and drop wires into the obvious cracks on the balancey middle section
switch - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/10 with James
This route is clean and doesn't rely on dodgy fixed gear. The peg at the initial overhang can be backed up with RPs.
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Bob Smith
mark s - Lead - 24/May/08 with andi t
Great route, systematically beaten into submission. Contains possibly the best nut placement I have ever used.
andi turner - Lead - 24/May/08 with Mark Sharratt
Cowflinger - TR O/S - Sep/94 with Andy Sharp
Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/90
shark - Lead O/S - 13/May/89
Hidden - Lead β - 14/Aug/88
Mike Owen - 27/Jul/86 with Elaine Owen, Gavin Peat