Jeepers, that was hard graft. Took many attempts to finally get over the roof. Move up, cam, try, fall off, haul up try, fall off cam comes out, repeat! Plenty of 5b above and below the roof. Bring all your big cams - its a 5-10cm crack all the way. Misha followed by moonlight. Waded in via ford and nettles, waded out in the dark, finally on the path at 00.06....home 02.17! Ace fun.
philhilo - Lead dog - 12/Jun/14 with misha
What an adventure! Wade across deep ford (didn't find the weir on way in), jungle bash to the crag, at the crag just after 7pm, warm up on Anaconda. 9pm by the time Phil started this, lots of flailing around on the roof as dusk encroached but he got up it eventually to top out at 10.15pm in fading light. Couldn't hear anything due to the river, ropes a bit jammed, had to really about for Phil to take in. Brilliant crack climbing, three stars despite the easy start and a bit of grass to finish (less than on Anaconda though). Going through the roof is well hard, top end E3 5c, above and below is E1-E2 5b jamming. E2 is a sandbag for sure and I don't usually upgrade routes! Roof - jug, jam, jam for dead life, so-so jug, crucial knee bar with a high right foot, shake out, get the pointy spike thing with the right had to find it's a bit rubbish and not very pointy, get left foot up, breathe! All by head torch - fun! Then the abseil descent, wade out across the weir with sticks for balance and walk out, back at the car park just after midnight and home just after 2am! Save a red or yellow BD cam for the best belay gear. The abseil is a the other end I the pinnacle and needs new tat - 8 foot sling or better still take 5 - 10 metres of rope. Should have thought to bring.
Misha - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/14 with Phil
Fuck yeah! with tape on..
Hannes B - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Danny
Dave Turnbull, BMC - 2nd - 22/May/12 with Dominic Oughton
power failure on the crux. took a few goes but got there in the end. felt very strenuous for 5c but i suppose the holds are big enough
Alex@home - 2nd dog - 22/May/12 with The Doctor
Hidden - 2012
Great climb. There's no fist-jamming on it, but hand-jamming and then burly jug-hauling to stand up above the roof. Take all your hexes and big cams.
switch - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/10 with James
Hidden - Lead - 2010
Seymore Butt - 2010
Brown - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/09 with James T
porridgefan - Lead dnf - 27/Jun/09 with Niall Francis
andi turner - Lead O/S - Apr/07 with Martin Dearden
nickdonohue - Lead - Jun/04 with Jim Barradale
nickcanute - Lead - May/01
Got a Friend 3 stuck in the roof crack, grrrr
mikedelderfield - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/98 with Steven Delderfield
ste_d - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/98 with mik
Roget - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/93 with jon
Hidden - 1992
EagerAndy - Lead O/S - 1990 with Hugh Woodland
Hidden - 2nd β - 14/Aug/88
Gezzer - Lead O/S - 1983 with Merv Dudley