Rockfax Description
A magnificent line, great for aficionados of slippery limestone fist-jamming. Follow the crack-line throughout. The main difficulties are concentrated in passing the lip of the biggest roof. Marks will be deducted for shoddy style, use of knees and any squealing. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Read, Roy Leeming, D.Carnell, P.Brown, S.Hunt 1956 Done with 1 pt by Leeming in 1965

Hannes B 30/Aug 2nd
with Aidan
philhilo 12/Jun/14 Lead dog

Jeepers, that was hard graft. Took many attempts to finally get over the roof. Move up, cam, try, fall off, haul up try, fall off cam comes out, repeat! Plenty of 5b above and below the roof. Bring all your big cams - its a 5-10cm crack all the way. Misha followed by moonlight. Waded in via ford and nettles, waded out in the dark, finally on the path at 00.06....home 02.17! Ace fun.

with misha
Misha 12/Jun/14 2nd O/S

What an adventure! Wade across deep ford (didn't find the weir on way in), jungle bash to the crag, at the crag just after 7pm, warm up on Anaconda. 9pm by the time Phil started this, lots of flailing around on the roof as dusk encroached but he got up it eventually to top out at 10.15pm in fading light. Couldn't hear anything due to the river, ropes a bit jammed, had to really about for Phil to take in. Brilliant crack climbing, three stars despite the easy start and a bit of grass to finish (less than on Anaconda though). Going through the roof is well hard, top end E3 5c, above and below is E1-E2 5b jamming. E2 is a sandbag for sure and I don't usually upgrade routes! Roof - jug, jam, jam for dead life, so-so jug, crucial knee bar with a high right foot, shake out, get the pointy spike thing with the right had to find it's a bit rubbish and not very pointy, get left foot up, breathe! All by head torch - fun! Then the abseil descent, wade out across the weir with sticks for balance and walk out, back at the car park just after midnight and home just after 2am! Save a red or yellow BD cam for the best belay gear. The abseil is a the other end I the pinnacle and needs new tat - 8 foot sling or better still take 5 - 10 metres of rope. Should have thought to bring.

with Phil
Hannes B 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Fuck yeah! with tape on..

with Danny
Dave Turnbull, BMC 22/May/12 2nd
with Dominic Oughton
Alex@home 22/May/12 2nd dog

power failure on the crux. took a few goes but got there in the end. felt very strenuous for 5c but i suppose the holds are big enough

with The Doctor
Hidden ??/2012 -
switch 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Great climb. There's no fist-jamming on it, but hand-jamming and then burly jug-hauling to stand up above the roof. Take all your hexes and big cams.

with James
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Brown 22/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with James T
porridgefan 27/Jun/09 Lead dnf
with Niall Francis
andi turner ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Martin Dearden
nickdonohue ?/Jun/04 Lead
with Jim Barradale
nickcanute ?/May/01 Lead
mikedelderfield 01/Jun/98 2nd O/S

Got a Friend 3 stuck in the roof crack, grrrr

ste_d 01/Jun/98 Lead O/S
with mik
Roget 27/Jun/93 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden ??/1992 -
uphillnow 14/May/91 Lead
with Mark Gray
Andy Edgar ??/1990 Lead O/S
with Hugh Woodland
Hidden 14/Aug/88 2nd β
TonyF ??/1985 Lead
with Alistair Gordon, Dave McDowel, Paul Harrison, Tony Cox
Gezzer ??/1983 Lead O/S
with Merv Dudley
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, philhilo
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 6
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 5
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set