Phil's Route*** E2 5c

Rockfax Description
A magnificent line, great for aficionados of slippery limestone fist-jamming. Follow the crack-line throughout. The main difficulties are concentrated in passing the lip of the biggest roof. Marks will be deducted for shoddy style, use of knees and any squealing. © ROCKFAX

FA. Steve Read, Roy Leeming, D.Carnell, P.Brown, S.Hunt 1956 Done with 1 pt by Leeming in 1965
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This climb is in 24 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Hannes B - 2nd - 30/Aug/15 with Aidan

Jeepers, that was hard graft. Took many attempts to finally get over the roof. Move up, cam, try, fall off, haul up try, fall off cam comes out, repeat! Plenty of 5b above and below the roof. Bring all your big cams - its a 5-10cm crack all the way. Misha followed by moonlight. Waded in via ford and nettles, waded out in the dark, finally on the path at 00.06....home 02.17! Ace fun.
philhilo - Lead dog - 12/Jun/14 with misha

What an adventure! Wade across deep ford (didn't find the weir on way in), jungle bash to the crag, at the crag just after 7pm, warm up on Anaconda. 9pm by the time Phil started this, lots of flailing around on the roof as dusk encroached but he got up it eventually to top out at 10.15pm in fading light. Couldn't hear anything due to the river, ropes a bit jammed, had to really about for Phil to take in. Brilliant crack climbing, three stars despite the easy start and a bit of grass to finish (less than on Anaconda though). Going through the roof is well hard, top end E3 5c, above and below is E1-E2 5b jamming. E2 is a sandbag for sure and I don't usually upgrade routes! Roof - jug, jam, jam for dead life, so-so jug, crucial knee bar with a high right foot, shake out, get the pointy spike thing with the right had to find it's a bit rubbish and not very pointy, get left foot up, breathe! All by head torch - fun! Then the abseil descent, wade out across the weir with sticks for balance and walk out, back at the car park just after midnight and home just after 2am! Save a red or yellow BD cam for the best belay gear. The abseil is a the other end I the pinnacle and needs new tat - 8 foot sling or better still take 5 - 10 metres of rope. Should have thought to bring.
Misha - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/14 with Phil

Fuck yeah! with tape on..
Hannes B - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Danny

Dave Turnbull, BMC - 2nd - 22/May/12 with Dominic Oughton

power failure on the crux. took a few goes but got there in the end. felt very strenuous for 5c but i suppose the holds are big enough
Alex@home - 2nd dog - 22/May/12 with The Doctor

Hidden - 2012

Great climb. There's no fist-jamming on it, but hand-jamming and then burly jug-hauling to stand up above the roof. Take all your hexes and big cams.
switch - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/10 with James

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Seymore Butt - 2010

Brown - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/09 with James T

porridgefan - Lead dnf - 27/Jun/09 with Niall Francis

andi turner - Lead O/S - Apr/07 with Martin Dearden

nickdonohue - Lead - Jun/04 with Jim Barradale

nickcanute - Lead - May/01

Got a Friend 3 stuck in the roof crack, grrrr
mikedelderfield - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/98 with Steven Delderfield

ste_d - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/98 with mik

Roget - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/93 with jon

Hidden - 1992

uphillnow - Lead - 14/May/91 with Mark Gray

Andy Edgar - Lead O/S - 1990 with Hugh Woodland

Hidden - 2nd β - 14/Aug/88

TonyF - Lead - 1985 with Alistair Gordon, Dave McDowel, Paul Harrison, Tony Cox

Gezzer - Lead O/S - 1983 with Merv Dudley

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:

Total votes cast 17
hard E31 of 6
E30 of 6
easy E31 of 6
hard E23 of 6
E21 of 6
easy E20 of 6
hard E10 of 6
E10 of 6
easy E10 of 6
hard 6a0 of 6
6a0 of 6
easy 6a1 of 6
hard 5c3 of 6
5c2 of 6
easy 5c0 of 6
hard 5b0 of 6
5b0 of 6
easy 5b0 of 6
3 Stars2 of 5
2 Stars3 of 5
1 Star0 of 5
0 Stars0 of 5
Bag of .....0 of 5
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β