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Simanon Direct** HVS 4c

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The long standing Cheesewring classic. A serious route that requires good judgement and a cool head. The route seeps for long periods after rainfall, although the alternative direct variation on the second pitch does dry a little quicker but it is no less serious. Start at a large quarry-ring at the very base of the crag.. 1) 4b, 10m. Climb up leftwards to a long chain which is used for protection but not as a means of ascent! Belay at the rock ring holding the chain.. 2) 4c, 13m. Climb up onto a ledge and then step up to another ledge on the right below a leaning wall. Traverse out right along the ledge to a groove and a good small nut-placement. Move up the groove to good holds, and then traverse back left along a large vegetated ramp to its end and move up to a large belay ledge. Very bold.. 2a) E1 5a, 8m. A variation takes the direct line to the second stance past a poor peg, also bold.. 3) 4b, 12m. Move rightwards to the base of a line that cuts back left and up a diagonal crack to the top in a fine position. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 84 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

With direct variation p1/2 as one
sam0000 - Lead O/S - Jul/14

whiteexplorer - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with joe

me 1st 2nd pitches as one.sam top pitch
minexplorer - AltLd - 11/Sep/13 with sam

Led top pitch, nice hand crack, had to think about the bridging move above the chain at first.
Rassapotimus - AltLd β - 11/Sep/13 with minexplorer

Unfortunately became a bit psyched by the lack of protection on pitch 2 so waited patiently on the ledge for a top rope to a standing ovation from the gathered 30 strong crowd of onlookers!
andybrown114 - Lead - 01/Sep/13 with Jim Watchorn

Backed off the second pitch. I am a big girls blouse.
Alex the Alex - AltLd dnf - 24/Aug/13

climber darlo - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/13 with joe chandler, alex orr

Hidden - Solo rpt - 11/Aug/13

callum brown - AltLd rpt - 23/Jul/13 with Jack

Jackislav - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 12/Jul/13

Did the route in a oner. The middle bit felt bold.
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/13 with David Coley

Hidden - Solo rpt - 27/Jun/13

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Jun/13

never tire of repeating this route
minexplorer - Lead - 03/Jun/13 with ian

Would have had this clean if it wasn't for a confidence shout of "take". I'll be back, nice route.
Ian Miller - 2nd dog - 03/Jun/13 with Rad

neiloutdoors - 2nd - 18/May/13

a lot less of the rusty belay hook now
tracyclimber - Lead - 18/May/13 with neiloutdoors

Direct version of second pitch.
Mark Kemball - 2nd - 18/Sep/12 with Matt Thompson

Hidden - Solo rpt - 06/Sep/12

Did top pitch great pitch ! second scary
Michael Aylen - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/12 with Kris

Hidden - AltLd dog - 04/Sep/12

Danny_boulders - AltLd O/S - Sep/12

alice fuller - 2nd O/S - 05/May/12 with george coiley

watch out for the nest and the birds- scary and off putting!
climbhannahclimb - 2nd O/S - 28/Mar/12 with Tim Exley

Spearos - Lead O/S - 28/Jan/12 with Mike

Hidden - TR - 12/Sep/11

Tom Seccombe - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with tj murry

minexplorer - Lead - 07/Aug/11 with pete campion

Hidden - Lead - 30/Jul/11

Awesome route, delicate traverses. Hard move up from chain ledge. 3.5 friend fit perfect into the bore hole above. Final pitch was about as exposed as it gets I think, well good.
Cheese Monkey - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/11 with jordon fleming

lead 1st and 3rd pitch. 1st was easy and used the chain to qick draw. second pitch has a hard move which requres you to brigde right above the belayers face :( thanks ben lol but really enjoyed the last pitch as it had good hand holds but none for the feet and very exposes. definatly do it again.
Jordon Fleming - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/11 with ben darby

first time i lead middle pitch with robin frazer started to rain so finished on T/R GUTTED this time rob 1st me 2nd john 3rd finshed in the dark. middle pitch still freaked me out. but good route
mike hooper - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/11 with john martin, robin frazer

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/11

awsome second pitch
pielander - 2nd - 09/Apr/11 with rad

just as satisfying third time round
minexplorer - Lead - 09/Apr/11

Pricey06 - Lead β - Apr/11

pete3685 - Solo O/S - 25/Mar/11

Awesome route, pushes you backwards slightly and requires sloping holds. We snapped a micro nut as the second fell and pendulumed across to the gear above! Combined 1st and 2nd pitch which was a mistake as there was loads of rope drag. Awesome finish
chris687 - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/11

I took the lead for the second pitch. The route was very wet, particularly at the start. In fact the route was a slimy succession of puddles, drips and seeps. On the crux move of the second pitch, the foothold was green and slimy, and after a couple of false starts and one fall on a(bomber) No 3 wire in the base of the crux groove, I made the move. I think we finished a couple of hours after we started.
petecallaghan - AltLd - 2011 with Ben Devenish

Hidden - Lead - 2011

callum brown - AltLd O/S - 2011 with Jack Reed

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/10

this climb is such fun.2nd time ive led it properly.find v easy now but the care u have to take because of the run outs makes it exciting
minexplorer - Lead - 09/Sep/10 with grant newcombe

bailed the first time we did this, but this time did it. the crux's were not as hard as i first thought, some very delicate traverses. and the seepage was fun to cope with, try and go when it has been dry for a while
Paragonthewise - 2nd - 09/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Sep/10

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/10 with Mark

Wow even as a second a fairly bold experience well led Dr Dave
DCIGadget - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/10 with Dr Dave

2nd attempt.sussed the correct(bridging)way to get up from the chain ledge.v satisfying.rest easy.pro ok.def climb again
minexplorer - Lead - 16/Aug/10

luke sherratt - 2nd - 16/Aug/10

Fuck, i Nearly Fell Off!
El3ctroFuzz - Solo rpt - 16/Jun/10

It feels like a really epic scramble on the ledges below the flake
Rowansb - Solo O/S - 14/Jun/10 with me

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 09/Apr/10

jack adams - Lead O/S - 2010 with andrew

Hidden - 2010

andrew hammond - AltLd O/S - 2010 with jack adams

In two pitches, Led last short and easy, but beautiful pitch. Very exposed, a bit like climbing on Sea Walls at Avon. Very good route.
Tom Last - AltLd O/S - 04/Oct/09 with Chester

Fantastic route, Linked P1 and P2 together, gears a bit sparse for my liking but very enjoyable, last pitch is exciting!!!
crobinson - AltLd - 03/Oct/09 with Queequeg

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/09

Ian Did P2 i did P1. I had to show him it :P
El3ctroFuzz - AltLd rpt - 20/Jun/09 with Ian Luscombe

Lummy41 - AltLd - 20/Jun/09 with Tom Bunn

Did P1 and P2 this Time, as one pitch.. Alex did P3. Sick
El3ctroFuzz - AltLd rpt - 09/May/09 with Alex Orrrrrrr - Green giant

Lead P3!! SicK!
The Green Giant - AltLd O/S - 09/May/09 with Fiila

Hard Variation - 5a. Me first Multi-pitch lead. I Seconded the first pitch, and lead the second. Did the route in 2 pitches, put the belay at half height, Climbed up, then lead the second pitch. Really good top section, Amazing crack!
El3ctroFuzz - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Tom Thorpe

Fantastic last pitch!
JonHarvey - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/08 with Jay Jackson, Jayne Bulbeck

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 14/Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/08

Marti999 - AltLd - 02/Sep/07 with Tom Thorp

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/03

Unseconded. Done in one go.
BenTiffin - Lead - Apr/03

howlers - 2nd - 17/Aug/02

Mark Kemball - Lead - 17/Jun/00 with Joel Dyer

Roget - Solo O/S - 21/Aug/99

tomkhoward - AltLd O/S - 1997 with John Spear

Hidden - Lead - 27/Aug/95

ellie macpherson - Lead RP - Aug/95 with Bob Smith

colin milton - Lead - 10/Oct/93 with eric milton

beaumap - AltLd - 26/Jul/89 with Tim Waddington

Nigel Coe - 28/May/89 with Gordon Jenkin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/83

JohnHutch - 2nd - 16/Sep/78 with CR

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
robertrocks, Kate Edhouse, SimonMarcYoung, Hidden, Master Chief, Hidden, Warren Earle

Voting
Total votes cast 40
hard E10 of 14
E10 of 14
easy E10 of 14
hard HVS2 of 14
HVS10 of 14
easy HVS1 of 14
hard VS1 of 14
VS0 of 14
easy VS0 of 14
hard 5a0 of 14
5a0 of 14
easy 5a2 of 14
hard 4c2 of 14
4c8 of 14
easy 4c2 of 14
hard 4b0 of 14
4b0 of 14
easy 4b0 of 14
3 Stars5 of 12
2 Stars6 of 12
1 Star1 of 12
0 Stars0 of 12
Bag of .....0 of 12
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Style of ascent

Soloed7 of 84 (8.3%)
Lead28 of 84 (33.3%)
Followed14 of 84 (16.7%)
Toproped1 of 84 (1.2%)
Alt Leads31 of 84 (36.9%)
Unknown3 of 84 (3.6%)

'Climbed'32 of 84 (38.1%)
clean O/S36 of 84 (42.9%)
clean β2 of 84 (2.4%)
clean rpt9 of 84 (10.7%)
clean RP1 of 84 (1.2%)
dogged2 of 84 (2.4%)
dnf2 of 84 (2.4%)