Rockfax Description
The long standing Cheesewring classic. A serious route that requires good judgement and a cool head. The route seeps for long periods after rainfall, although the alternative direct variation on the second pitch does dry a little quicker but it is no less serious. Start at a large quarry-ring at the very base of the crag.
1) 4b, 10m. Climb up leftwards to a long chain which is used for protection but not as a means of ascent! Belay at the rock ring holding the chain.
2) 4c, 13m. Climb up onto a ledge and then step up to another ledge on the right below a leaning wall. Traverse out right along the ledge to a groove and a good small nut-placement. Move up the groove to good holds, and then traverse back left along a large vegetated ramp to its end and move up to a large belay ledge. Very bold.
2a) E1 5a, 8m. A variation takes the direct line to the second stance past a poor peg, also bold.
3) 4b, 12m. Move rightwards to the base of a line that cuts back left and up a diagonal crack to the top in a fine position. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Jelly Mould Surfer 18/Oct AltLd O/S

P1+P3. Top pitch is excellent. Seepage detracted from the middle pitch

with Mike Thorpe
ChristyCole 18/Jul AltLd O/S

Led P1/2a as one

with Dan
Hidden ?/Jul AltLd
Dilwat 27/Jun AltLd O/S

Lead P2. Plenty of nervous laughter.

with Dave P
darcan 20/Jun AltLd
with nick
nickstephens 20/Jun AltLd O/S
with Darcan
suds_01 ??/2015 -
Hidden 09/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/14 AltLd β
Hidden 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S
chrisdevon 08/Sep/14 2nd
with Mike
sam0000 ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S

With direct variation p1/2 as one

whiteexplorer 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with joe
minexplorer 11/Sep/13 AltLd

me 1st 2nd pitches as one.sam top pitch

with sam
Rassapotimus 11/Sep/13 AltLd β

Led top pitch, nice hand crack, had to think about the bridging move above the chain at first.

Hidden 01/Sep/13 Lead
Alex the Alex 24/Aug/13 AltLd dnf

Backed off the second pitch. I am a big girls blouse.

climber darlo 20/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with joe chandler, alex orr
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Solo rpt
callum brown 23/Jul/13 AltLd rpt
with Jack
Jackislav 23/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/13 AltLd rpt
eddy-on-the-rocks 10/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Did the route in a oner. The middle bit felt bold.

Hidden 27/Jun/13 Solo rpt
Hidden 21/Jun/13 AltLd
minexplorer 03/Jun/13 Lead

never tire of repeating this route

with ian
Ian Miller 03/Jun/13 2nd dog

Would have had this clean if it wasn't for a confidence shout of "take". I'll be back, nice route.

with Rad
neiloutdoors 18/May/13 2nd
tracyclimber 18/May/13 Lead

a lot less of the rusty belay hook now

Mark Kemball 18/Sep/12 2nd

Direct version of second pitch.

Hidden 06/Sep/12 Solo rpt
Michael Aylen 04/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Did top pitch great pitch ! second scary

with Kris
Hidden 04/Sep/12 AltLd dog
Danny_boulders ?/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
alice fuller 05/May/12 2nd O/S
climbhannahclimb 28/Mar/12 2nd O/S

watch out for the nest and the birds- scary and off putting!

Spearos 28/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Mike
Hidden 12/Sep/11 TR
Tom Seccombe 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
minexplorer 07/Aug/11 Lead
with pete campion
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead
Cheese Monkey 13/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Awesome route, delicate traverses. Hard move up from chain ledge. 3.5 friend fit perfect into the bore hole above. Final pitch was about as exposed as it gets I think, well good.

Jordon Fleming 13/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

lead 1st and 3rd pitch. 1st was easy and used the chain to qick draw. second pitch has a hard move which requres you to brigde right above the belayers face :( thanks ben lol but really enjoyed the last pitch as it had good hand holds but none for the feet and very exposes. definatly do it again.

mike hooper 12/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

first time i lead middle pitch with robin frazer started to rain so finished on T/R GUTTED this time rob 1st me 2nd john 3rd finshed in the dark. middle pitch still freaked me out. but good route

with john martin, robin frazer
Legs 06/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Simon O'Hara
pielander 09/Apr/11 2nd

awsome second pitch

with rad
minexplorer 09/Apr/11 Lead

just as satisfying third time round

Pricey06 ?/Apr/11 Lead β
pete3685 25/Mar/11 Solo O/S
chris687 04/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Awesome route, pushes you backwards slightly and requires sloping holds. We snapped a micro nut as the second fell and pendulumed across to the gear above! Combined 1st and 2nd pitch which was a mistake as there was loads of rope drag. Awesome finish

petecallaghan ??/2011 AltLd

I took the lead for the second pitch. The route was very wet, particularly at the start. In fact the route was a slimy succession of puddles, drips and seeps. On the crux move of the second pitch, the foothold was green and slimy, and after a couple of false starts and one fall on a(bomber) No 3 wire in the base of the crux groove, I made the move. I think we finished a couple of hours after we started.

with Ben Devenish
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
callum brown ??/2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/10 Lead O/S
minexplorer 09/Sep/10 Lead

this climb is such fun.2nd time ive led it properly.find v easy now but the care u have to take because of the run outs makes it exciting

with grant newcombe
Paragonthewise 09/Sep/10 2nd

bailed the first time we did this, but this time did it. the crux's were not as hard as i first thought, some very delicate traverses. and the seepage was fun to cope with, try and go when it has been dry for a while

Hidden 03/Sep/10 AltLd
Bristoldave 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Mark
DCIGadget 01/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Wow even as a second a fairly bold experience well led Dr Dave

with Dr Dave
minexplorer 16/Aug/10 Lead

2nd attempt.sussed the correct(bridging)way to get up from the chain ledge.v ok.def climb again

luke sherratt 16/Aug/10 2nd
El3ctroFuzz 16/Jun/10 Solo rpt

Fuck, i Nearly Fell Off!

Rowansb 14/Jun/10 Solo O/S

It feels like a really epic scramble on the ledges below the flake

with me
rockjedi12345 09/Apr/10 AltLd dnf

bailed on the belay of pitch 2 started very late and ended up in the dark wth no torch! good climbing by nigel..

with Neil Parry, Nigel Kerr
jack adams ??/2010 Lead O/S
with andrew
Hidden ??/2010 -
andrew hammond ??/2010 AltLd O/S
Tom Last 04/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

In two pitches, Led last short and easy, but beautiful pitch. Very exposed, a bit like climbing on Sea Walls at Avon. Very good route.

with Chester
crobinson 03/Oct/09 AltLd

Fantastic route, Linked P1 and P2 together, gears a bit sparse for my liking but very enjoyable, last pitch is exciting!!!

Hidden 22/Jun/09 2nd O/S
El3ctroFuzz 20/Jun/09 AltLd rpt

Ian Did P2 i did P1. I had to show him it :P

with Ian Luscombe
Lummy41 20/Jun/09 AltLd
with Tom Bunn
El3ctroFuzz 09/May/09 AltLd rpt

Did P1 and P2 this Time, as one pitch.. Alex did P3. Sick

with Alex Orrrrrrr - Green giant
The Green Giant 09/May/09 AltLd O/S

Lead P3!! SicK!

with Fiila
El3ctroFuzz 28/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Hard Variation - 5a. Me first Multi-pitch lead. I Seconded the first pitch, and lead the second. Did the route in 2 pitches, put the belay at half height, Climbed up, then lead the second pitch. Really good top section, Amazing crack!

with Tom Thorpe
JonHarvey 14/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Fantastic last pitch!

with Jay Jackson, Jayne Bulbeck
Hidden 14/Sep/08 AltLd rpt
Hidden 14/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Marti999 02/Sep/07 AltLd
with Tom Thorp
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
rockjedi12345 ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Phil Mathews
Hidden ?/Sep/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/03 Lead O/S
BenTiffin ?/Apr/03 Lead

Unseconded. Done in one go.

howlers 17/Aug/02 2nd
Mark Kemball 17/Jun/00 Lead
with Joel Dyer
Roget 21/Aug/99 Solo O/S
migs493 19/Jun/99 AltLd O/S
tomkhoward ??/1997 AltLd O/S
with John Spear
Hidden 27/Aug/95 Lead
ellie macpherson ?/Aug/95 Lead RP
with Bob Smith
FATBOYFAT ??/1995 -
colin milton 10/Oct/93 Lead
with eric milton
beaumap 26/Jul/89 AltLd
with Tim Waddington
Nigel Coe 28/May/89 -
Hidden 19/Nov/83 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/78 2nd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, robertrocks, Kate Edhouse, SimonMarcYoung, Hidden, Master Chief, Hidden, Warren Earle
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 17
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 14
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set