3 pitches.
A left-to-right traverse of the whole of the main crag in 3 pitches.
1) 5b. Start at far left of crag as for Numpty Dumpty. Move up 2m or so then right across a vegetated ledge to reach cleaner rock. Continue right then step down and move right on steeper ground (on Non-Secateur here) and then diagonally down (at the level of the 1st niche on Back in Business) into a bowl and easier climbing rightwards to the arête at the edge of the bowl where the route joins Walkabout/Katherine's Dilemma. Continue the traverse (balancy foot traverse – Walkabout crux) to reach a tree and arête. Step round the arête – good low foothold, followed by an awkward balancy move to easier ground crossing Anukshuk to reach a good block belay in the corner of Superstitious?.
2) 5b. Step down about 1.5m and traverse right round the arête (beware a loose looking block on the arête level with belay). Continue traversing beneath the large overhang of Badgered Buzzard with exciting airy moves round onto a small ledge and belay – this is on The Raven just below its upper V-groove.
3) 5c. Move right into the corner (Birds of a Feather) and step down about 2m to where ledges run out to the arête below an overhang. Move right round the arête, the overhang is split by a crack – climb this (hard but good finger jams and gear) to good holds above (Amber Nectar). The crack could probably be avoided by traversing round the arête at a higher level. Now move more easily up right to join Candle in the Wind at the tree (in-situ cable) and the arboreal finish of that route.
1) 5b. Start at far left of crag as for Numpty Dumpty. Move up 2m or so then right across a vegetated ledge to reach cleaner rock. Continue right then step down and move right on steeper ground (on Non-Secateur here) and then diagonally down (at the level of the 1st niche on Back in Business) into a bowl and easier climbing rightwards to the arête at the edge of the bowl where the route joins Walkabout/Katherine's Dilemma. Continue the traverse (balancy foot traverse – Walkabout crux) to reach a tree and arête. Step round the arête – good low foothold, followed by an awkward balancy move to easier ground crossing Anukshuk to reach a good block belay in the corner of Superstitious?.
2) 5b. Step down about 1.5m and traverse right round the arête (beware a loose looking block on the arête level with belay). Continue traversing beneath the large overhang of Badgered Buzzard with exciting airy moves round onto a small ledge and belay – this is on The Raven just below its upper V-groove.
3) 5c. Move right into the corner (Birds of a Feather) and step down about 2m to where ledges run out to the arête below an overhang. Move right round the arête, the overhang is split by a crack – climb this (hard but good finger jams and gear) to good holds above (Amber Nectar). The crack could probably be avoided by traversing round the arête at a higher level. Now move more easily up right to join Candle in the Wind at the tree (in-situ cable) and the arboreal finish of that route.
FA. Steve Burns, Mick Fowler 08/Jun/2011.
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Route of Interest
Delicatessen
Grade: E2 5c ***
(High Tor)