UKC

20m.

Rockfax Description
Climb to the tree then tackle the thin finger-crack (poor footholds and perfect runners) then the easier groove above. © Rockfax

FA. Bob Dearman (4 points) 1969. FFA. Steve Worthington, Jim Worthington, Giles Barker 1977.

Ticklists

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User Date Notes
PaulJepson 2 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Be careful with the tree at the start; the 'grabable' branch is broken and hanging on by a thread. Didn't notice until I'd slung it and climbed past it. There is also A LOT of big wobbly blocks at the top. Be very careful what you pull on. The block mentioned in the comments below has clearly gone but the ones below where it was could prove equally fatal.
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βeta: Be careful with the tree at the start; the 'grabable' branch is broken and hanging on by a thread. Didn't notice until I'd slung it and climbed past it. There is also A LOT of big wobbly blocks at the top. Be very careful what you pull on. The block mentioned in the comments below has clearly gone but the ones below where it was could prove equally fatal.
meggies 30 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: LOOSE BLOCK Big block at top has moved and is no longer held in by mud. Now wedged/perched across finishing groove and still wobbling. We tried to trundle it but couldn't - too heavy and will need tools. Probably securer than before but still very dangerous.
βeta?
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βeta: LOOSE BLOCK Big block at top has moved and is no longer held in by mud. Now wedged/perched across finishing groove and still wobbling. We tried to trundle it but couldn't - too heavy and will need tools. Probably securer than before but still very dangerous.
samt 25 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Very Loose (and large) block at the top of the route, needs gardening really as it'll only take one nudge. Potential to kill anyone on the ground.
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βeta: Very Loose (and large) block at the top of the route, needs gardening really as it'll only take one nudge. Potential to kill anyone on the ground.
Tom Woolgar 25 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose blocks at the start of the exit arĂȘte near the top
βeta?
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βeta: Loose blocks at the start of the exit arĂȘte near the top
Andrew Barker 10 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: A great route, I don't know whether I was happy or sad that the crack was over so quickly! Hardest moves are getting into the crack and leaving it.
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βeta: A great route, I don't know whether I was happy or sad that the crack was over so quickly! Hardest moves are getting into the crack and leaving it.
NickAL 26 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Harder than Cathy's Clown and Liquid Courage too for my money!
βeta?
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βeta: Harder than Cathy's Clown and Liquid Courage too for my money!
Chris the Tall 27 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Much harder than BRM, and although well protected it was still hard to commit to the moves.
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βeta: Much harder than BRM, and although well protected it was still hard to commit to the moves.

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 68
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
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High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 63
Votes cast 60
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Original Route Direct Start

Grade: E1 5b ***
(High Tor)

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