Spectacular and bold climbing up the impressive nose and headwall in the centre of the crag. Start in the corner below the right-hand side of a pinnacle known as 'The Wizard's Hat'..
1) 5b, 27m. Move up to the crack on the right side of the pinnacle and climb to its top. Follow ledges rightwards to a bolt, and move up to a hand-ledge directly above it. Mantle onto the ledge and step out toward the arete before moving up to the overhang and good wires. Climb the wall and crack on the left side of the arete to a stance. Bolts and nut belay..
2) 6a, 12m. Move out right onto the exposed hanging groove and climb it, bolts, to its end, bolt, where some fingery moves lead directly to the top. The original finish went direct at E4 6a but the gear is now old. © ROCKFAX
Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs.