UKC

28m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the cracks, the crux bulge is at 20m. © Rockfax

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User Date Notes
cragtyke 2 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Good route, fairly steady. Bolts a bit spaced but adequate.
βeta?
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βeta: Good route, fairly steady. Bolts a bit spaced but adequate.
StuartinFife 7 Jan, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The route now appears to go straight up after the crux bulge and a lower off has been placed just left of the slab on Winter at 25-30m approx. I guess other longer variations may still be possible!
βeta?
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βeta: The route now appears to go straight up after the crux bulge and a lower off has been placed just left of the slab on Winter at 25-30m approx. I guess other longer variations may still be possible!
VNT 11 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Good lower-off at 25+ meters, the route is not 40m, it's less then 30m.
βeta?
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βeta: Good lower-off at 25+ meters, the route is not 40m, it's less then 30m.
gibsond 12 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: This route has a grade of 5+ painted on the wall at the bottom and I thought this was a fairer grade for the crux moves. The lower route is easy in comparison. It looks like a couple of new bolts have been placed after the bulge and these lead you away from the lower-off at 25m. This then makes the moves to this lower-off tricky. I used the lower-off at 25m which was a bit rusty but seemed solid.
βeta?
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βeta: This route has a grade of 5+ painted on the wall at the bottom and I thought this was a fairer grade for the crux moves. The lower route is easy in comparison. It looks like a couple of new bolts have been placed after the bulge and these lead you away from the lower-off at 25m. This then makes the moves to this lower-off tricky. I used the lower-off at 25m which was a bit rusty but seemed solid.
TRNovice 9 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The top lower off consisted of two bits of tat in November 2004. The move over the bulge at 20m is harder than 4+, 5 at least.
βeta?
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βeta: The top lower off consisted of two bits of tat in November 2004. The move over the bulge at 20m is harder than 4+, 5 at least.

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Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour

Grade: 5a ***
(Sierra de Toix)

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