An expedition; allow 5-6 hours for the trip. Start as for J to X.
1 to 6) 105m. As for Journey to Xanadu.
7) 2, 18m. Cross the gully to ledges and traverse to a belay.
8) & 9) Traverse left at either of two levels for 50m; the lower is harder (4,4+) and can be damp; higher is easier (3, 3+). The stance here can also be reached by two long abseils.
10) 3+, 20m. Move left into the next groove and climb the left-hand side of the pillar to a thread belay.
11) 6b, 30m. Climb to the top of the pillar and then move right and climb direct. Continue leftwards to a thread and on to a hanging stance. Bolt belays.
12) 6a, 25m. Head left past a pocket then go direct to a ledge.
13) 6a+, 45m. Climb the wall on the right to a leaning buttress then climb the front of the this to slabs and a short wall to finish. © Rockfax
FA. R.Edwards, M.Edwards, R.Mayfield, T.Phillips 2000
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This is E3 and an expedition. On the long traverse after where Journey from Xanadu goes up, make sure you belay on the far arete (good threads) so that you can see your partner on the traverse. The traverse is easy enough (E1 5a) but committing and serious (especially if you're unsighted). The rock is snappy and it would be difficult to get out the water if you went in, as the rock is undercut at it's base. The F6b pitch has 3 bolts but E3 5c is more realistic.