|293m, 13 pitches. |
An expedition; allow 5-6 hours for the trip. Start as for J to X.
1 to 6) 105m. As for Journey to Xanadu.
7) 2, 18m. Cross the gully to ledges and traverse to a belay.
8) & 9) Traverse left at either of two levels for 50m; the lower is harder (4,4+) and can be damp; higher is easier (3, 3+). The stance here can also be reached by two long abseils.
10) 3+, 20m. Move left into the next groove and climb the left-hand side of the pillar to a thread belay.
11) 6b, 30m. Climb to the top of the pillar and then move right and climb direct. Continue leftwards to a thread and on to a hanging stance. Bolt belays.
12) 6a, 25m. Head left past a pocket then go direct to a ledge.
13) 6a+, 45m. Climb the wall on the right to a leaning buttress then climb the front of the this to slabs and a short wall to finish. © ROCKFAX
FA. R.Edwards, M.Edwards, R.Mayfield, T.Phillips 2000