Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour** 5a
[Magic indeed, 3 kb]160m, 5 pitches. A popular trip. There is some fixed gear, including ENPs (see page 20) to mark the line but take a full rack. Approach by walking west from the ladders. Competent climbers will find the first 2 pitches solo-able however, if unsure, rope up. 1) 3, 25m. Traverse left to the arete and then left again, descending into the Candelabra del Sol cave. 40m. Walk/scramble left across ledges to the left edge of the left and step around left onto a good ledge. 2) 3, 10m. Climb the wide crack on the left to a ledge then drop down left into a hollow. 3) 4, 20m. Traverse left (old peg) to the arete and climb round into scoop (poor bolt). Pull up over the overlap into a larger scoop. Belay on old bolts and/or ENPs. 4) 4, 25m. Traverse right to the arete (old bolt) and climb this, trending right at the top, to a ledge with 2 ENPs; or continue traversing right into the next cave, poor bolt and gear to belay. 55, 40m. Climb right and up into the next cave then left onto the arete (poor bolt) and go direct to a good ledge. Move right and climb the groove, moving right at its top. © ROCKFAX
FA. R.Edwards 1986. Climbed solo, bolts placed later.

Ticklists: Costa Blanca in a Week Tick List, Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes.

Photo: Magic indeed © Chris Manasseh
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 100 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

Bizzarly arrived at the top with only one trainer!!! Had no recollection of seeing it en route or losing it?
alpinismo.uk - AltLd O/S - 12/Dec/14 with Graham

steveprice.exmouth - AltLd - 04/Dec/14 with Steve Woollard

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Dec/14

Nice traverse and nice final pitch.
dmetcalfe - AltLd - 27/Nov/14

Led 2 & 4
Chris Manasseh - AltLd - 27/Nov/14 with John Armstrong

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Nov/14

led p1,3 &5
jvarmstrong - AltLd - 27/Nov/14 with Chris

first 2 and last pitch
Trev speariett - AltLd - 26/Nov/14

Led Pitches 1, 2, 4, 5. Windy. Pitches 4 and 5 are stunning.
nick ferro - AltLd O/S - 20/Nov/14 with Oli Birkill

mikestr555 - Lead - 10/Nov/14

Just the one bolt protects the initial easy pitch, then one more for the second pitch, then a good double bolt belay marks the start of the proper climbing. Thankfully the bolts have been placed sparingly so this still feels like a serious adventure. 3rd time on this route for me and still feels wonderful. Mid 30's C so sun / heatstroke going on by the time we were finished.
A Mountain Journey - AltLd - 28/Oct/14 with Joe

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/14

Great exposure on the sharp last pitch. First two can be solo'd as one move wonders. Take care as it's a real sun trap with 0% cover after the caves.
andyevans - 2nd O/S - 09/Oct/14 with cdpuk

Solo P1,2, lead P3,4,5. Amazing scenery and exposure for the grade. No need for any trad gear any more. P1 and 2 have bolts where needed and the rest are fully bolted.
cdpuk - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/14 with Andrew Evans

daveclarke5 - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Stephen

aliclarke99 - 2nd dog - 19/Apr/14

solo piches 1 & 2 lead pitch 5
mikestr555 - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/14

mrteale - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/14

Pitched 3,4 and. 5 bolted. Found the traverse on 3 exposed, climb a little high after bolt three and had to down climb. Used a couple of pieces of trad to protect the top out! A great climb, but get there early to avoid any queues! Lead 1,3 and 5!
lgp81 - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/14 with Caroline 2010

Caroline 2010 - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/14 with lgp81

craig naylor - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/14 with Tony

You really don't need a full rack as the first 2 pitches are really just a walk but the last pitch makes up for it! A gd day out! Although a few bolts where needed it still has the HVS feel :-) gd star to the year.
Felix Ottey - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/14

Lots of shiny new bolts no need for a rack. A great situation for a climb.
mot1 - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/14 with Lucy

balloo1791 - 2014

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Dec/13

Hidden - Lead dnf - 08/Nov/13

Led 1, 3 & 5. Awesome fun.
BenedictIEP - AltLd O/S - 11/Oct/13 with Tom Hobbs

Disappointingly easy and well bolted, only two wires placed. Only roped for final 3 pitches. Nice and sunny though.
Alex Thompson - AltLd O/S - 11/Oct/13 with JonnyO

J25 - AltLd O/S - 11/Oct/13 with Alex Thompson

Lead pitches 1, 3 and 5. Exposed sea cliff fun:-)
vix - AltLd O/S - 11/Oct/13 with chris

EllieWoods - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/13 with Adam, Lucy

Bit loose in places but an amazing adventure
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/13 with ah

2nd time round for me, showing Kate the delights of these amazing sea cliffs. Climbed previously with Susan Guest as an A/L Loads of fun on both occasions
A Mountain Journey - Lead - Feb/13 with Kate

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Dec/12

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Nov/12

chris smith - AltLd O/S - 28/Oct/12

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Apr/12

Very,very hot!
Shaw Brown - Lead - 30/Mar/12 with Judith Neaves

Wild abseil into space (they aren't lying about the ladders) sets the tone. Took about 4 hours
BelleVedere - 2nd - 13/Jan/12 with Mark Eddy

Sam_Marsland - Lead O/S - 13/Jan/12 with Mark Eddy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Nov/11

Very nice abb into it.
Ash_Johnson - Lead - Nov/11

A fantastic adventure, exciting abseil, great views, sparse rusty gear, it has it all! Last two pitches are bolted where needed but a full rack was used, could not see any ENP's on the route, be careful not to tangle the ropes like I did around the rusty old ladders next to the abseil point! A must do.
rgd1977 - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/11

beckybray1 - 2nd - 20/Mar/11

brilliant day out, the ab in sets the scene for the rest of the route.
stvredmond - AltLd - 14/Nov/10 with Dan

trad leads 2/5
bigdan050 - AltLd - 14/Nov/10 with steve R, oz

take plenty of water and make sure its not in the 30,s. fine position fine last pitch.abseil.wow
stanman - AltLd O/S - Sep/10 with si rackley

Hidden - Lead - May/10

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 02/Apr/10

seeroo - 2nd O/S - 20/Jan/10 with Scone

used the ENPs for belaying at one point (couldn't see much else there) and the top pitch is a lot shorter than stated
auld al - AltLd O/S - Jan/10

Hidden - 2010

Really good climb, worth the visit to Calpe.
hedgehog77 - Lead O/S - Dec/09

JWB - AltLd O/S - 04/Nov/09 with Charles

Hidden - Lead RP - 26/Dec/08

Hidden - Lead - Dec/08

TonyP - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Nic

barni - AltLd O/S - 01/May/08 with tom machine

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/08

Easy to run the two pitches after the traverse together in order to reach the cave before the crux. Seem to be some new bolts on the 5 section of this before reaching the prominent recess.
Peter Metcalfe - AltLd - 29/Jan/08 with Jenn Burt

When scorchio.....take water!
Jakey4060 - AltLd O/S - Sep/07 with Tom Silsbury

Julie Carroll - AltLd - May/07 with Rich Mayfield, Carole Dawson

SteveM - AltLd O/S - 31/Dec/06 with Corky

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Dec/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Nov/06

Soloed the first 2 pitchs (both 3), led 3rd (4) and 5th (5), Nick led 4th (4). A fine way to finish the trip
Chris the Tall - AltLd - 23/Nov/06 with Nick Smith

Sylvi - 2nd - 17/Nov/06 with Andy L

Neill led first proper pitch, Ines led P2 and I led P3.
CJE - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/06 with Ines Clergue & Neill McMullan

Hidden - Lead - 24/Mar/06

Hidden - AltLd β - Jan/06

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Oct/05

Shaw Brown - 2nd - 29/Apr/05 with peter metcalfe

Move together or solo the first three pitches. Watch out for the homicidal gulls in April!
Peter Metcalfe - Lead - 29/Apr/05 with Kim Mason, Shaw Brown

An eventful climb, done in difficult circumstances. Will repeat on future visit.
erica - 2nd - 17/Mar/05 with John

Bit of an epic after the abseil incident
John Brayshaw - Lead rpt - 17/Mar/05 with Erica

Good fun but shorter than we expected.
220bpm - AltLd O/S - 04/Nov/04 with Dave

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Oct/04

led the top pitch VS5a
shaun walby - Lead - 22/Mar/04

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jan/04

Mark Adams - Lead - 2004

TimPerkin - AltLd O/S - 25/Nov/03 with Mark Perkin, Richard Harris, Dave Green

Spillers - Lead - Sep/03 with Randy

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Mar/03

whispering nic - Lead O/S - Mar/03 with The Wife

Mark Riley - AltLd O/S - Mar/03 with Sandra Evans

Goody - 2nd O/S - 22/Feb/03 with Mark Jarvis

Hidden - AltLd - 2003

chrishedgehog - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/02 with Joe Thompson

John Brayshaw - AltLd O/S - 20/Mar/02 with Chris

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Dec/00

cem - AltLd O/S - 01/Dec/00 with Miles Butteriss

Shaw Brown - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/00 with cliff brown

charlesmfrench - AltLd dog - 28/Apr/98

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Apr/98

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Dec/97

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Dec/97

craig h - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/97 with Janet Hannah

BobbyMotherwell - Apr/97 with Colin Donnelly, Eric Horne

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Adam_42, madguernseyboy, vix, Sianny, Sparrowmonkey, ben_250, Alan100

Voting
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Style of ascent

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