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Magical Mystery Tour** 5

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[Topping out of Magical Mystery Tour, 3 kb]160m, 5 pitches. A popular trip. There is some fixed gear, including ENPs (see page 20) to mark the line but take a full rack. Approach by walking west from the ladders. Competent climbers will find the first 2 pitches solo-able however, if unsure, rope up. 1) 3, 25m. Traverse left to the arete and then left again, descending into the Candelabra del Sol cave. 40m. Walk/scramble left across ledges to the left edge of the left and step around left onto a good ledge. 2) 3, 10m. Climb the wide crack on the left to a ledge then drop down left into a hollow. 3) 4, 20m. Traverse left (old peg) to the arete and climb round into scoop (poor bolt). Pull up over the overlap into a larger scoop. Belay on old bolts and/or ENPs. 4) 4, 25m. Traverse right to the arete (old bolt) and climb this, trending right at the top, to a ledge with 2 ENPs; or continue traversing right into the next cave, poor bolt and gear to belay. 55, 40m. Climb right and up into the next cave then left onto the arete (poor bolt) and go direct to a good ledge. Move right and climb the groove, moving right at its top. © ROCKFAX
FA. R.Edwards 1986. Climbed solo, bolts placed later.

Ticklists: Costa Blanca in a Week Tick List.

Photo: Topping out of Magical Mystery Tour © Shaw Brown
View all 23 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 64 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

EllieWoods - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/13 with Adam, Lucy

Bit loose in places but an amazing adventure
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/13 with ah

Great sunny day. No1 and no 2 nuts are very handy for EMP.
emmit21 - AltLd O/S - 06/Dec/12 with Ian Nevin and Darren Mitchell

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Nov/12

chris smith - AltLd O/S - 28/Oct/12

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead - 30/Mar/12

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jan/12

smarsy_93 - Lead O/S - 13/Jan/12 with Mark Eddy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Nov/11

Very nice abb into it.
Ash_Johnson - Lead - Nov/11

A fantastic adventure, exciting abseil, great views, sparse rusty gear, it has it all! Last two pitches are bolted where needed but a full rack was used, could not see any ENP's on the route, be careful not to tangle the ropes like I did around the rusty old ladders next to the abseil point! A must do.
rgd1977 - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/11

beckybray1 - 2nd - 20/Mar/11

brilliant day out, the ab in sets the scene for the rest of the route.
stvredmond - AltLd - 14/Nov/10 with Dan

trad leads 2/5
bigdan050 - AltLd - 14/Nov/10 with steve R, oz

take plenty of water and make sure its not in the 30,s. fine position fine last pitch.abseil.wow
stanman - AltLd O/S - Sep/10 with si rackley

Hidden - Lead - May/10

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 02/Apr/10

seeroo - 2nd O/S - 20/Jan/10 with Scone

used the ENPs for belaying at one point (couldn't see much else there) and the top pitch is a lot shorter than stated
auld al - AltLd O/S - Jan/10

Hidden - 2010

Really good climb, worth the visit to Calpe.
hedgehog77 - Lead O/S - Dec/09

JWB - AltLd O/S - 04/Nov/09 with Charles

Hidden - Lead RP - 26/Dec/08

Hidden - Lead - Dec/08

TonyP - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Nic

barni - AltLd O/S - 01/May/08 with tom machine

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/08

Easy to run the two pitches after the traverse together in order to reach the cave before the crux. Seem to be some new bolts on the 5 section of this before reaching the prominent recess.
Peter Metcalfe - AltLd - 29/Jan/08 with Jenn Burt

When scorchio.....take water!
Jakey4060 - AltLd O/S - Sep/07 with Tom Silsbury

Julie Carroll - AltLd - May/07 with Rich Mayfield, Carole Dawson

SteveM - AltLd O/S - 31/Dec/06 with Corky

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Dec/06

Soloed pitches 1 & 2, lead pitch 4. Brilliant, exposed climbing, but it was very, very hot!
Nick Smith - UKC - AltLd O/S - 23/Nov/06 with Chris Moor

Soloed the first 2 pitchs (both 3), led 3rd (4) and 5th (5), Nick led 4th (4). A fine way to finish the trip
Chris the Tall - AltLd - 23/Nov/06 with Nick Smith

Sylvi - 2nd - 17/Nov/06 with Andy L

Neill led first proper pitch, Ines led P2 and I led P3.
CJE - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/06 with Ines Clergue & Neill McMullan

Hidden - AltLd β - Jan/06

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Oct/05

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Apr/05

Move together or solo the first three pitches. Watch out for the homicidal gulls in April!
Peter Metcalfe - Lead - 29/Apr/05 with Kim Mason, Shaw Brown

An eventful climb, done in difficult circumstances. Will repeat on future visit.
erica - 2nd - 17/Mar/05 with John

Bit of an epic after the abseil incident
John Brayshaw - Lead rpt - 17/Mar/05 with Erica

Good fun but shorter than we expected.
220bpm - AltLd O/S - 04/Nov/04 with Dave

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Oct/04

led the top pitch VS5a
shaun walby - Lead - 22/Mar/04

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jan/04

TimPerkin - AltLd O/S - 25/Nov/03 with Mark Perkin, Richard Harris, Dave Green

Spillers - Lead - Sep/03 with Randy

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Mar/03

whispering nic - Lead O/S - Mar/03 with The Wife

Mark Riley - AltLd O/S - Mar/03 with Sandra Evans

Goody - 2nd O/S - 22/Feb/03 with Mark Jarvis

Hidden - AltLd - 2003

chrishedgehog - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/02 with Joe Thompson

John Brayshaw - AltLd O/S - 20/Mar/02 with Chris Heald

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Dec/00

cem - AltLd O/S - 01/Dec/00 with Miles Butteriss

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/00

charlesmfrench - AltLd dog - 28/Apr/98

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Dec/97

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Dec/97

craig h - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/97 with Janet Hannah

BobbyMotherwell - Apr/97 with Colin Donnelly, Eric Horne

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Sianny, Sparrowmonkey, ben_250, Alan100, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 36
hard 5+0 of 18
5+0 of 18
easy 5+0 of 18
hard 510 of 18
56 of 18
easy 52 of 18
hard 4+0 of 18
4+0 of 18
easy 4+0 of 18
3 Stars8 of 18
2 Stars7 of 18
1 Star1 of 18
0 Stars1 of 18
Bag of .....1 of 18
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Style of ascent

Lead16 of 64 (25.0%)
Followed12 of 64 (18.8%)
Alt Leads34 of 64 (53.1%)
Unknown2 of 64 (3.1%)

'Climbed'27 of 64 (42.2%)
clean O/S32 of 64 (50.0%)
clean β1 of 64 (1.6%)
clean rpt1 of 64 (1.6%)
clean RP1 of 64 (1.6%)
dogged1 of 64 (1.6%)
dnf1 of 64 (1.6%)