160m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
HVS. A popular mini-expedition. There is some fixed gear where most needed, but take a rack. Approach by walking right (looking out) from the base of the ladders. Competent climbers will find the first 2 pitches solo-able however, if unsure, rope up.
1) 3, 25m. Traverse left to the arete and then left again, descending into a cave.
Walk/scramble left across ledges to the left edge of the cave and step around onto a good ledge.
2) 3, 10m. Climb the wide crack on the left to a ledge then drop down left into a hollow.
3) 4, 20m. Traverse left to the arete and climb round into a scoop. Pull past the overlap into a larger scoop. Old bolts.
4) 4, 25m. Traverse right to the arete and climb this, trending right at the top, to a ledge. Belay here or continue traversing right into the next cave, poor bolt and gear to belay.
5) 5, 40m. A fine exposed pitch - about HVS 5a. Climb right and up into the next cave then left onto the arete and up to a good ledge. Move right, climb the groove, moving right at its top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The abseil in is around 50m - double ropes needed, or leave a single rope in place and collect it later.

FA. R.Edwards 1986. Climbed solo, bolts placed later.

Ticklists: Costa Blanca in a Week Tick List, Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes.

t_smallbone 24/Nov 2nd O/S
Juliette Edwards 13/Nov Lead O/S

lead pitches 3, 4 and 5

A Mountain Journey 13/Nov AltLd
Hidden 09/Nov AltLd
tiga271 05/Nov AltLd

Led 3 and 5

with Dave
Tomp580 16/Sep AltLd
Juan Ruiz 26/Aug AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd and 4th pitches. 4th and 5th pitches fully bolted.

with Pablo Perea
Hidden 11/Apr 2nd
Stanners 10/Apr AltLd O/S
with Swedish Fred, Andy G
pdamann 17/Feb AltLd O/S

Joby and Ed went as the first pair. Nick and I followed. Of the last three proper pitches, I led P2. We just about got away with it: the rain came in as we climbed these pitches. The final pitch was absolutely drenched when we got to it. Ed lowered a rope for Nick to clip into. I seconded as normal. Climbed it fine, despite the conditions.

jamie ward 01/Feb AltLd O/S

Needed a few nuts for the unbolted top-out

with Shaun Blower
mes32 15/Jan AltLd O/S

Rest-day comedy - 4 people, 4 ropes, leaders rotating clockwise. Easy climbing, no rack needed. Great fun.

with Sally, Caroline, Will
Hidden 15/Jan AltLd O/S
will_benfold 15/Jan AltLd O/S

In a loop of four, rotating leads. Led P5

with Sally Fitton, Caroline Culwick, Mary
LeeWood 30/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

fine objective for a rest day!

Hidden 22/Dec/14 -
alpinismo.uk 12/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

Bizzarly arrived at the top with only one trainer!!! Had no recollection of seeing it en route or losing it?

with Graham
redshapedfriday 12/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
with Debs Climber
steveprice.exmouth 04/Dec/14 AltLd
with Steve Woollard
Hidden 02/Dec/14 AltLd
dmetcalfe 27/Nov/14 AltLd

Nice traverse and nice final pitch.

Chris Manasseh 27/Nov/14 AltLd

Led 2 & 4

with John Armstrong
Hidden 27/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
jvarmstrong 27/Nov/14 AltLd

led p1,3 &5

with Chris
Trev speariett 26/Nov/14 AltLd

first 2 and last pitch

nicnac67 24/Nov/14 2nd
with Kevin
nick ferro 20/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

Led Pitches 1, 2, 4, 5. Windy. Pitches 4 and 5 are stunning.

with Oli Birkill
mikestr555 10/Nov/14 Lead
A Mountain Journey 28/Oct/14 AltLd

Just the one bolt protects the initial easy pitch, then one more for the second pitch, then a good double bolt belay marks the start of the proper climbing. Thankfully the bolts have been placed sparingly so this still feels like a serious adventure. 3rd time on this route for me and still feels wonderful. Mid 30's C so sun / heatstroke going on by the time we were finished.

with Joe
Hidden 10/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
andyevans 09/Oct/14 2nd O/S

Great exposure on the sharp last pitch. First two can be solo'd as one move wonders. Take care as it's a real sun trap with 0% cover after the caves.

with cdpuk
cdpuk 09/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Solo P1,2, lead P3,4,5. Amazing scenery and exposure for the grade. No need for any trad gear any more. P1 and 2 have bolts where needed and the rest are fully bolted.

daveclarke5 19/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with Stephen
aliclarke99 19/Apr/14 2nd dog
mikestr555 26/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

solo piches 1 & 2 lead pitch 5

mrteale 22/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Wildstyle 11/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Pitched 3,4 and. 5 bolted. Found the traverse on 3 exposed, climb a little high after bolt three and had to down climb. Used a couple of pieces of trad to protect the top out! A great climb, but get there early to avoid any queues! Lead 1,3 and 5!

Caroline 2010 11/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
with lgp81
craig naylor 03/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
with Tony
RobSimpson 19/Jan/14 2nd
Felix Ottey 01/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

You really don't need a full rack as the first 2 pitches are really just a walk but the last pitch makes up for it! A gd day out! Although a few bolts where needed it still has the HVS feel :-) gd star to the year.

mot1 01/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Lots of shiny new bolts no need for a rack. A great situation for a climb.

with Lucy
balloo1791 ??/2014 -
Rich ??/2014 -
Hidden 16/Dec/13 AltLd
Hidden 08/Nov/13 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Nov/13 Lead
BenedictIEP 11/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Led 1, 3 & 5. Awesome fun.

with Tom Hobbs
Alex Thompson 11/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Disappointingly easy and well bolted, only two wires placed. Only roped for final 3 pitches. Nice and sunny though.

with JonnyO
J25 11/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
vix 11/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1, 3 and 5. Exposed sea cliff fun:-)

with chris
EllieWoods 19/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Adam, Lucy
Stone Muppet 11/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Bit loose in places but an amazing adventure

with ah
A Mountain Journey ?/Feb/13 Lead

2nd time round for me, showing Kate the delights of these amazing sea cliffs. Climbed previously with Susan Guest as an A/L Loads of fun on both occasions

with Kate
KateA ?/Feb/13 2nd
Hidden 06/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Nov/12 2nd
chris smith 28/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/12 AltLd
Shaw Brown 30/Mar/12 Lead

Very,very hot!

BelleVedere 13/Jan/12 2nd

Wild abseil into space (they aren't lying about the ladders) sets the tone. Took about 4 hours

Sam_Marsland 13/Jan/12 Lead O/S
A Mountain Journey 13/Jan/12 Lead
Hidden 17/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
1918hasti 15/Nov/11 AltLd
Ash_Johnson ?/Nov/11 Lead

Very nice abb into it.

rgd1977 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S

A fantastic adventure, exciting abseil, great views, sparse rusty gear, it has it all! Last two pitches are bolted where needed but a full rack was used, could not see any ENP's on the route, be careful not to tangle the ropes like I did around the rusty old ladders next to the abseil point! A must do.

beckybray1 20/Mar/11 2nd
stvredmond 14/Nov/10 AltLd

brilliant day out, the ab in sets the scene for the rest of the route.

with Dan
bigdan050 14/Nov/10 AltLd

trad leads 2/5

with steve R, oz
stanman ?/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

take plenty of water and make sure its not in the 30,s. fine position fine last pitch.abseil.wow

with si rackley
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead
Hidden 02/Apr/10 2nd dnf
seeroo 20/Jan/10 2nd O/S
with Scone
auld al ?/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

used the ENPs for belaying at one point (couldn't see much else there) and the top pitch is a lot shorter than stated

Hidden ??/2010 -
hedgehog77 ?/Dec/09 Lead O/S

Really good climb, worth the visit to Calpe.

JWB 04/Nov/09 AltLd O/S
with Charles
Hidden 26/Dec/08 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Dec/08 Lead
TonyP 10/May/08 Lead O/S
with Nic
barni 01/May/08 AltLd O/S
with tom machine
Hidden 26/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
Peter Metcalfe 29/Jan/08 AltLd

Easy to run the two pitches after the traverse together in order to reach the cave before the crux. Seem to be some new bolts on the 5 section of this before reaching the prominent recess.

with Jenn Burt
Jakey4060 ?/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

When scorchio.....take water!

Julie Carroll ?/May/07 AltLd
with Rich Mayfield, Carole Dawson
SteveM 31/Dec/06 AltLd O/S
with Corky
Hidden 28/Dec/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Nov/06 AltLd O/S
Chris the Tall 23/Nov/06 AltLd

Soloed the first 2 pitchs (both 3), led 3rd (4) and 5th (5), Nick led 4th (4). A fine way to finish the trip

Sylvi 17/Nov/06 2nd
with Andy L
CJE 16/Oct/06 AltLd O/S

Neill led first proper pitch, Ines led P2 and I led P3.

with Ines Clergue & Neill McMullan
Hidden 24/Mar/06 Lead
Hidden ?/Jan/06 AltLd β
Hidden 17/Oct/05 AltLd
Shaw Brown 29/Apr/05 2nd
Peter Metcalfe 29/Apr/05 Lead

Move together or solo the first three pitches. Watch out for the homicidal gulls in April!

with Kim Mason, Shaw Brown
erica 17/Mar/05 2nd

An eventful climb, done in difficult circumstances. Will repeat on future visit.

with John
John Brayshaw 17/Mar/05 Lead rpt

Bit of an epic after the abseil incident

with Erica
220bpm 04/Nov/04 AltLd O/S

Good fun but shorter than we expected.

with Dave
Hidden ?/Oct/04 AltLd O/S
shaun walby 22/Mar/04 Lead

led the top pitch VS5a

Hidden 24/Jan/04 AltLd
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
TimPerkin 25/Nov/03 AltLd O/S
with Mark Perkin, Richard Harris, Dave Green
Spillers ?/Sep/03 Lead
with Randy
Hidden 20/Mar/03 2nd
whispering nic ?/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with The Wife
Mark Riley ?/Mar/03 AltLd O/S
with Sandra Evans
Goody 22/Feb/03 2nd O/S
with Mark Jarvis
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd
chrishedgehog 25/Apr/02 AltLd O/S
with Joe Thompson
John Brayshaw 20/Mar/02 AltLd O/S
with Chris
Hidden 05/Dec/00 AltLd
cem 01/Dec/00 AltLd O/S
with Miles Butteriss
Shaw Brown 15/Mar/00 Lead O/S
with cliff brown
charlesmfrench 28/Apr/98 AltLd dog
Hidden 14/Apr/98 AltLd
Hidden 24/Dec/97 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Dec/97 AltLd
craig h 17/Apr/97 AltLd O/S
with Janet Hannah
BobbyMotherwell ?/Apr/97 -
with Colin Donnelly, Eric Horne
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
jordangolding, Adam_42, Hidden, madguernseyboy, Hidden, vix, Hidden, Sianny, Sparrowmonkey, ben_250, Alan100, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 30
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set