UKC Logbook - 'Parle'

60m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An amazing classic which takes you to places not usually found on a 6a+. The route is very exposed and intimidating but technically relatively straightforward but don't underestimate it! Unfortunately the bolts are already showing their age.
1) 5+. Follow the steep (sometimes greasy) rock up the left-hand wall above the deep slot. Belay on bolts on the bridge.
2) 6a+. Climb direct above the belay on good-but-hidden holds - spaced bolts. Hand traverse right to a hanging stance.
3) 6a. Make a tricky move up left then revel in the superb position rising up leftwards to the exit hole. © Rockfax

Rich Mayfield.

Ticklists

Costa Blanca in a Week Tick List , ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50 , Costa Blanca 25 by 2025 , Adventure ticklist 2018 , Costa blanca 2022 , Costa Blanca 2022 , Costa Blanca 2023

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User	Date		Notes
Edshakey	16 Apr	Show βeta βeta: Horribly greasy when no wind or sun to burn it off. Like climbing soap. Probs not one for climbers without a couple grades in hand? A light rack was useful for P2 when the runout on greasy holds was a bit much.
Show beta βeta: Horribly greasy when no wind or sun to burn it off. Like climbing soap. Probs not one for climbers without a couple grades in hand? A light rack was useful for P2 when the runout on greasy holds was a bit much.
Edshakey	16 Apr	Show βeta βeta: Without a breeze or a day's sun, the route gets very slimy - don't try if this is your limit grade, unless you're prepared to be very scared at times! Nuts can ease the runouts in a few places, although P2 is quite compact generally.
Show beta βeta: Without a breeze or a day's sun, the route gets very slimy - don't try if this is your limit grade, unless you're prepared to be very scared at times! Nuts can ease the runouts in a few places, although P2 is quite compact generally.
Katie2401Tron	11 Feb, 2023	Show βeta βeta: Led pitches 1 and 3. Amazing route, nerve-wracking belay setup but only because first time hanging and very exposed	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Led pitches 1 and 3. Amazing route, nerve-wracking belay setup but only because first time hanging and very exposed
Tall Oak	15 Jan, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Good lord. The exposure and drop into the bottom was something else. Looking up and seeing that roof I could not feel that it was all going to crash down on me. My engineering brain cannot work out how such a roof is still withstanding. The abb in cut away at my confidence. Not much in the way of climbing experience to call upon to settle the nerves. Brilliant sun and hot against the rocks, which was lovely considering its 2 degrees in UK today and about 22 in Costa. P3 is 100% harder than P2. The bolts are high but protect the main parts and cruxes to the climb. Not sure why the belay station for P2 is hanging when one could have added the belay station 4 foot higher and on a better ledge? How knows, however I get that\'s part of the experience. Well done \'The Swan\' for his can do attitude and joining me on this nuts sport adventure. Definitely worthy of a Top 50 place. Absolutely bonkers with the setting and landscape. Bolts were tug tested as I did see rust on some of them. All seem fine. If I was being super cautious I would take a small rack of wires or cams with me. Generally though you can climb without them. Its user preference.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Good lord. The exposure and drop into the bottom was something else. Looking up and seeing that roof I could not feel that it was all going to crash down on me. My engineering brain cannot work out how such a roof is still withstanding. The abb in cut away at my confidence. Not much in the way of climbing experience to call upon to settle the nerves. Brilliant sun and hot against the rocks, which was lovely considering its 2 degrees in UK today and about 22 in Costa. P3 is 100% harder than P2. The bolts are high but protect the main parts and cruxes to the climb. Not sure why the belay station for P2 is hanging when one could have added the belay station 4 foot higher and on a better ledge? How knows, however I get that's part of the experience. Well done 'The Swan' for his can do attitude and joining me on this nuts sport adventure. Definitely worthy of a Top 50 place. Absolutely bonkers with the setting and landscape. Bolts were tug tested as I did see rust on some of them. All seem fine. If I was being super cautious I would take a small rack of wires or cams with me. Generally though you can climb without them. Its user preference.
alex505c	25 Jul, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Make sure you read the beta on the abseil -- you need to leave a 60m rope fixed at the top, and there is a redirect anchor just below the lip of the hole to keep the rope from rubbing on the sharp edge. Also, the start was VERY greasy -- probably worth protecting the initial moves (risk of falling into a chasm) by tying belayer to the fixed abseil line.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Make sure you read the beta on the abseil -- you need to leave a 60m rope fixed at the top, and there is a redirect anchor just below the lip of the hole to keep the rope from rubbing on the sharp edge. Also, the start was VERY greasy -- probably worth protecting the initial moves (risk of falling into a chasm) by tying belayer to the fixed abseil line.
miksmith	6 Feb, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Stunning exposure and the second pitch is swell! Third pitch I found harder than the grade suggestse
Show beta βeta: Stunning exposure and the second pitch is swell! Third pitch I found harder than the grade suggestse
RosieGann	25 Dec, 2019	Show βeta βeta: P3 has the trickiest move.
Show beta βeta: P3 has the trickiest move.
Tim Broughtonshaw	3 Mar, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Very Very nice route. Great position. You wouldn't think you could get out of that position for only 6a+. Some pictures currently on http://www.theorangehouse.net/news.htm.
Show beta βeta: Very Very nice route. Great position. You wouldn't think you could get out of that position for only 6a+. Some pictures currently on http://www.theorangehouse.net/news.htm.