UKC

26m.

Rockfax Description
The superb and photogenic arete. It is probably 6c+ if you climb direct past the second bolt although most folks go right here. © Rockfax

FA. Jens Muenchberg 1990s 1995.

Ticklists

Costa Blanca in a Week Tick List , Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes , ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50 , Costa Blanca 25 by 2025 , Costa Blanca 2022

Feedback

User Date Notes
LucaC 18 Dec, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: There’s a good bolted anchor contrary to the 2020 comment below. Spaces bolts on the route, not a contender for your first 6b!
βeta?
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βeta: There’s a good bolted anchor contrary to the 2020 comment below. Spaces bolts on the route, not a contender for your first 6b!
napoleon_dynamite 18 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Old school bolting
βeta?
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βeta: Old school bolting
Ben_Roberts 28 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Be careful with the anchor at the top, the route’s anchor is a single bolt with a locking carabiner that’s heavily rope warn. You’re other choice is another anchor to the left, which really isn’t much better. Two large staples ‘equalised’ by an oval snapgate isn’t confidence filling. From the top I could see a lot of other anchors with a single bolt. Use your judgement.
βeta?
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βeta: Be careful with the anchor at the top, the route’s anchor is a single bolt with a locking carabiner that’s heavily rope warn. You’re other choice is another anchor to the left, which really isn’t much better. Two large staples ‘equalised’ by an oval snapgate isn’t confidence filling. From the top I could see a lot of other anchors with a single bolt. Use your judgement.
AWalker96 13 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route, but the ring on the top bolt is very worn through.
βeta?
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βeta: Excellent route, but the ring on the top bolt is very worn through.
Kyuzo 9 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Worthy of 3 stars, very nice climb with an amazing view. Starts easy, then gets more technical and slabby, then eases off at the finish.
βeta?
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βeta: Worthy of 3 stars, very nice climb with an amazing view. Starts easy, then gets more technical and slabby, then eases off at the finish.
cem 2 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I would agree that it's 6b, not 6b+. Certainly a 3 star route, though.
βeta?
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βeta: I would agree that it's 6b, not 6b+. Certainly a 3 star route, though.
The Gimp 4 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This route is a really nice 3 star 6b. Its not 6b+ at all. It is however a classic 6b 3 star route and as a result, some people find it harder than a loose nasty 6b, which is not as sustained, etc.
βeta?
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βeta: This route is a really nice 3 star 6b. Its not 6b+ at all. It is however a classic 6b 3 star route and as a result, some people find it harder than a loose nasty 6b, which is not as sustained, etc.
derekm 19 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I loved this route, for me very thin and technical climbing on my own limit, so I would agree with 6b+. The situation is very exposed for a single pitch route, and of course the photos look great with the Penon in the distance!
βeta?
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βeta: I loved this route, for me very thin and technical climbing on my own limit, so I would agree with 6b+. The situation is very exposed for a single pitch route, and of course the photos look great with the Penon in the distance!

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 96
Votes cast 106
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Vía Missing Link

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Sierra de Toix)

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