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|East Dumbarton > Craigmore >|
|Merlin|| f6C / V5|
<< Holly Tree Corner
The Beast >>
|4m. The wall between Holly Tree Corner and The Beast. Use blunt undercuts to stand on ledges and blindly find a poor crimp in the groove. Gain the LH pocket and step up . . . trickery allows a slap for a RH sloper on hanging blunt arete, step back right into groove and jump-off jugs. Excellent technical problem.|
John Watson 2007
This climb is in 6 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.
Inconspicuous problem but so much better than it looks.
Brendan - Sent x - 11/Apr/14
Fraser - Sent x - 09/Jun/13 with Kev
Hidden - Sent x - 31/Jul/12
Stingraypoindex - Sent - 28/Apr/12
Did this this at night with torches and lights (2am-5am). Stopped at Carbeth Inn by police who wanted to know what we were doing. (bouldering ... at 2am?!) The route shredded fingertips and the crux move was one of the best I've done at Craigmore. Fell off the crux slap hold 20-30 times before sticking it (and fell off after crux twice, before finishing right on my third go). Very good climbing from a pretty unassuming wall.
Kevin Woods - Sent - 25/Apr/12 with David Macmorris
JSWatson - 28/Sep/11
Users with this climb on their wishlist are: