Restricted Access
These crags do not have agreed access. The landowner has concerns with climbing on his land, and any publicity about the crags, or an increase in use, will result in an immediate and enforced ban. Quiet, low-key use is currently tolerated - please do not do anything to jeopardise this. Be sensitive to the ecological features of the area and take all litter home with you.
Rockfax Description
Get stood on the ledge, then from a positive right hand edge reach to a poor sloper with the left hand then rock up (feet on a hold on Borg) to gain a backhand in the roof. From here find a stable position to gain the upper lip and victory. Really hard in warm weather. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Use the good holds to gain the sloper with the left hand. Use this to rock over right to gain good undercuts in the roof.
Ticklists
Magstone's Best , Flexibility dependant Grit 7s
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Montdawg | 9 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: What a banger !!!! The move to the undercut Gaston is fooking lovely, super psyched to get the tick today after it feeling super hard not long ago! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: What a banger !!!! The move to the undercut Gaston is fooking lovely, super psyched to get the tick today after it feeling super hard not long ago! |
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Logged Ascents
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Heart of Darkness
Grade: f7A+ ***
(Nearcliff Wood)