These crags do not have agreed access. The landowner has concerns with climbing on his land, and any publicity about the crags, or an increase in use, will result in an immediate and enforced ban. Quiet, low-key use is currently tolerated - please do not do anything to jeopardise this. Be sensitive to the ecological features of the area and take all litter home with you.
Rockfax Description
From low, undercut up to the lip, then grab an overly positive crimp on the next lip, clench your teeth, throw a heel up left into the big holds on Dragon Fly, then continue to victory with a choice of finishes either right or left - right is probably better. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start low to a small undercut. Then to a painful crimp and a heel hook in the dragonfly jug. Can be finished right or left.
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Grade: f7B+ ***
(Wharncliffe Crags)