Rockfax Description
II, 200m, 1 - 2 hours. Cross the bergschrund at its narrowest point (midway along its length, can be difficult in late summer) and climb the 50 degree snow slope, which is difficult to protect. The face splits to go around a rock buttress - climb the right-hand gully, the difficulty varies greatly with conditions (usually around Scottish III) with some rock protection available. When completely dry it is loose and should be avoided by traversing left into a wide, snowy gully which is followed to rejoin the main route. Crest the ridge to join the Northwest Face route. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
From the Turino hut, head down the glacier, go around the lip of Aiguille de Toule, cross over the large bergschrund and head straight up the north face.
The route sits at 65 degrees, head around the rock outcrop to the right and summit.
head down the east face
Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming , Intro to Alpine , Cham Sep 24
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
arvinw | 9 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Final pitch looks 55-60 degree steep with bit of ice. Bring snow picket and ice screw for protection. Bergschrund crossing could be tricky with fresh snow. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Final pitch looks 55-60 degree steep with bit of ice. Bring snow picket and ice screw for protection. Bergschrund crossing could be tricky with fresh snow. |
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Grade: AD 4a ***
(Les Perrons de Vallorcine)