UKC

Restricted Access

There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.

In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.  

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act),  some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.

 

Rockfax Description
Climb the wall past two bolts to a double-bolt lower-off. A long reach is required to start the sequence. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Takes the wall left of The Mosquito passing two bolts to a double bolt lower off. A long reach is required to start the sequence.

Phil Targett and Tony Hughes 05/Nov/2011.

Ticklists

All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 6c & 6c+

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Gideon Quarries

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High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Style of Ascent
Lead
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Last of the Summer Wine

Grade: 6c ***
(Tyddyn Hywel Quarry)

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