|Black Holes and Revelations||7a|
|75m, 2 pitches. A great two-pitch expedition up the full height of the south wall. Start below a well-bolted slanting groove.|
1) 6b, 25m. Climb up the groove heading for the hanging ladder. From a good foothold, jump for the ladder or make a traverse across on boreholes. Scamper up the ladder to a bolt belay by the tunnel.
2) 7a, 50m. A beast of a pitch. Head up towards the wavy groove capped by a square block. Some traditional thrutching up this leads to easier ground and the base of a square-cut groove. This proves trickier than it appears. Belay on a bolt/thread on the viewing platform above. © ROCKFAX
An entertaining 2 pitch slate adventure from the very bottom of the ‘Twll Mawr’ hole topping out on the viewing platform adjacent to the track. The route can be accessed through the Twll Mawr / Peregrine Wall Tunnels and walking down the scree slope to the bottom of the hole, or alternatively a multiple abseil if you have a spare rope. Start just left of ‘In the Line of Fire’ (left of Supermassive Black Hole) by an obvious and well bolted slanting groove below the hanging ladder. Pitch 1 -25m (6b) ‘The Wobbly Ladder Pitch’ - climb the bolted series of grooves to gain a small ledge on the main face level with the bottom of the hanging ladder. From a good foothold it is possible to launch / dyno / fly / fall rightwards to gain the ladder – a unique and fun move! The faint hearted i.e. those refusing to fly can gain the same point by traversing along a series of bore holes. Run up the ladder via 2 bolts to a bolt belay by the tunnel. Pitch 2 – 50m (7a) ‘the big pitch’ - head up towards the incredibly smooth wavy groove capped by a huge square chock stone (solid). Squirm up the frictionless groove and if successful carry on up over easier ground to gain the bottom of a square cut groove. The final groove proves trickier than it looks; bolt / thread belay on the viewing platform above. Note: Both pitches can be climbed separately due to the easily accessible bolt belay by the tunnel, which allows you to walk in or out if you’re not doing both pitches. The route should clean up well with time / wind / rain and traffic...
FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sion McGuinness (Pitch 1) 25/Nov/2011
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