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|Gwynedd > Twll Mawr >
|Black Holes and Revelations|| 7a |
<< Black Holes and Revelations - The Wobbly Ladder Pitch
In the Line of Fire >>
|75m, 2 pitches. An entertaining 2 pitch slate adventure from the very bottom of the ‘Twll Mawr’ hole topping out on the viewing platform adjacent to the track.
The route can be accessed through the Twll Mawr / Peregrine Wall Tunnels and walking down the scree slope to the bottom of the hole, or alternatively a multiple abseil if you have a spare rope. Start just left of ‘In the Line of Fire’ (left of Supermassive Black Hole) by an obvious and well bolted slanting groove below the hanging ladder.
Pitch 1 -25m (6b) ‘The Wobbly Ladder Pitch’ - climb the bolted series of grooves to gain a small ledge on the main face level with the bottom of the hanging ladder. From a good foothold it is possible to launch / dyno / fly / fall rightwards to gain the ladder – a unique and fun move! The faint hearted i.e. those refusing to fly can gain the same point by traversing along a series of bore holes. Run up the ladder via 2 bolts to a bolt belay by the tunnel.
Pitch 2 – 50m (7a) ‘the big pitch’ - head up towards the incredibly smooth wavy groove capped by a huge square chock stone (solid). Squirm up the frictionless groove and if successful carry on up over easier ground to gain the bottom of a square cut groove. The final groove proves trickier than it looks; bolt / thread belay on the viewing platform above.
Both pitches can be climbed separately due to the easily accessible bolt belay by the tunnel, which allows you to walk in or out if you’re not doing both pitches.
The route should clean up well with time / wind / rain and traffic...
FA Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sion McGuinness (Pitch 1) 25/Nov/2011
Ticklists: Twll Mawr Sporting Challenge, Dinorwic Slate - Multi Pitch Sport Climbs.
This climb is in 6 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.
1 pitch. after wobbling the ladder from the top before starting it gave the impression it would in no way hold me if I flew 2m through the air to grab it, so I bailed and traversed to it.. 1st pitch was super dirty. 2nd pitch is awkward but all there, really interesting climbing on the smoothest rock possible. Really fun near the top.
dswansonlow - AltLd O/S - 02/May/14 with Darren McMaster
Led pitch 2. First pitch felt a bit dirty and esoteric but the wobbly ladder was cool and seemed more secure than it felt. Pitch 2 was tricky to start in the groove but eased shortly after and was great to keep going all the way to the top.
shed_hed - AltLd O/S - 02/May/14 with Dougie Swanson-Low
guy757 - 21/Apr/14
Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/13
lead the 2nd Wavey groove pitch of this thinking it was supermassive black hole. found it tricky to read and just about hung on.
willoates - Lead O/S - 08/May/12 with John Oooooore
ian Ll-J - Lead RP - 25/Nov/11
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
AndrewJamesCherry, rustaldo, Hidden