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|Devon > Daddyhole Main Cliff >|
|The Bead|| VS 4c|
|60m. 1st pitch 150ft.follow chimney/cleft and continuation crack on right side of the block at foot of gates of eden.then climb the crack above an scramble to the pink coloured slab.climb this by the arete to a white ledge.leave this rightwards(peg runner)an traverse delicately along a slab for 20ft(or climb the centre of the wall directly).before climbing direct to belay on a ledge at a large block.2nd pitch 30ft climb the broken wall on the left which leads to the arete and a small broken overhang before the top.a good belay (no.1 and 3 cams & large nuts)can also be made 15ft lower than the belay ledge.|
This climb is in 5 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.
Not a bad route actually, moves on the slab are really good. Loose rock at start and finish though.
Mr Tickle - 11/Jul/13 with Will
Luke belayed from the top of the chimney and I lead In one pitch. Good fun with some nice moves on pockets in the middle. Loose at start and finish.
Motown - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/13 with Luke
lead in 1 pitch , chossy out to the arete.superb moves across the slab on the right of the arete past pockets to good holds then an awkward and loose finish which should bump the grade up to hvs.A great adventure !
misterb - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/12 with bob
one of the lesser known routes at daddyhole was actually quite adventerous an ok protection.def worth a go
minexplorer - Lead - 05/Dec/11 with dave88
Split into 2 pitches to stay in contact and avoid drag. Loved the traverse before the belay and the chimneying at the start. Very cool route, get on it.
Dave 88 - 2nd O/S - 05/Dec/11 with minexplorer
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