Rockfax Description
The original route of the East Buttress. It follows a series of huge stepped-corners. Start to the right of the main crack/corner of Sunset Crack at a stepped left-facing groove leading up to the base of the main part of the cliff.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb leftwards over ledges and follow a corner to a grassy ledge.
2) 5a, 15m. The rib on the right leads to a break-line that leads right to below a short steep corner. Tricky moves up this gain The Conservatory - a large grassy ledge.
3) 4a, 25m. Climb the corner past a ledge on the right and enter the chimney above - generally easy but steep and intimidating - to belay on the large pillar.
4) 5a, 25m. The stepped corner on the right leads with difficulty to the top. An impressive pitch for its time. © Rockfax

Ticklists: 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs.

Hidden 11/Sep Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
jezb1 04/Sep/14 AltLd

Hard, not VS for me... Especially slimy!

Palindrome 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S
davewsargent 21/Jun/14 AltLd

pitches 1,2,and 4

with andy neath
CurlyStevo 21/Jun/14 AltLd dnf

What a sandbag at vs I've heard it's now hvs. Most the pitches bar the last one are vegetated and not worth stars! The last pitch is narrow hands with few jams you can get your hands in to or your feet properly jammed in and there are few foot holds. The gear is nearly the same size for 20 meters. If there wasn't a few old hexes in the crack given the average leaders mountain rack this would be solid e1 and is worth atleast mid grade hvs with the right gear. After the pig hard narrow hands thumb jamming crack you have an off width to contend with, with crux moves you'd hit a ledge on if you messed it up unless you carry a huge cam! The guide book needs to explain the gear issues for this to be fair for hvs and tell the leader about the off hands and off width climbing so they can decide before going up if they want to do that style of climbing! Not pleasant! We abbed off from the offwidth. Beware the turd some total twat did on the second pitch ledge I stepped in this abbing off to add insult to injury - it's quite near the edge of the ledge and in a place many people would stand :( I did my best to scrape it back from the edge and cover it with a flat rock and place leaves over it!

with Rob
rbharries 14/Jun/14 AltLd dog

aided my way up it chasing the setting sun! nails!

with Danger olly
mike mo ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
dan gibson 19/Jul/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
demarcation86 12/Jul/13 Lead dog

My jamming needs work.

with Paul
James Oswald 12/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

The hardest VS ever... Sarah accidentally strung P1 and P2 together but fell off the 1st crux initially hitting the ledge..She then did it fine. I lead P3 and P4 together, getting pumped on the bold (unless you have lots of hexes/ cams) upper pitch. Because I didn't have the right cams I had to run it out on the jamming crack at the start of p3. Really thuggy but good climbing

with Sarah Ridgway
francesanncavanagh 08/Jun/13 2nd
with George Maxwell, Jake Holland
MartF 25/May/13 AltLd

With Ash Green. Led P1 & P3, Ash led 2 & 4 (the hard bits).

with Ash
sprout3099 ?/May/13 -
with Freeman
jcw ??/2013 -
Hidden 27/May/12 AltLd O/S
Ewan Russell 27/May/12 AltLd O/S

solo 1st, lead 2nd and conor finished up capricorn

with Connor
soph 25/May/12 AltLd
with Mandy Tee
RedFox 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

The top pitch was quite exciting without any hexes or cams that fitted properly into it. Finished up the crack to the right.

with Ron D
Roger Cruse 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with Kris & Trevor
Tom Seccombe 21/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Abbed off before the last pitch, was so wet couldn't find the bottom of the climb in the mist finally found it was wet and muddy ended up taking a very long time.

with Mark Robson
Hidden 13/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Alex Mason 11/Jul/11 Solo O/S

Soloed upto 3rd pitch, largely wet. Then got a TR for the the final goppy corner, still have muddy hands from jamming it now.

dan ely 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

worth it for amazing top pitch. brutal but simple long crack. poss to abb of if defeated

with terry
Hidden 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd
Anthony Dixon 04/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
alasdair19 ??/2011 -

2 in situ hexs can be threaded on the first corner of the last pitch, handy if you lack adequate large gear. the last corner looked horrendous with only a chockstone to protect so I followed the 5b crack. the offwidth reminded my of crew cut at millstone

evilweed 16/Oct/10 AltLd dog

First pitch was wet, final pitch would get HVS 5a as a standalone. Hard laybacking and jamming up and intimidating crack. Excellent quality, bivi'd out the night before and climbed the route as a 3, finished as the sun set over an October Cloggy - Awesome.

with Dan
fragglerock 16/Oct/10 AltLd dog

Certainly harder than expected for a VS but a great, well protected climb none-the-less. Much of the excitement was provided by the greasy wet rock on which rock boots refused to smear. Sustained, lay-backing was the order of the day for much of the climb, and there's bomber protection all the way, provided you have enough medium Hexs/Cams (size 3/4 or larger). A good route, worthy of it's stars and probably a promotion to HVS. Pitches led as follows: P1-JL, P2-DL, P3-JL, P4- 1st 1/2 DL, 2nd 1/2 JL.

with Duncan Johnstone, Jon Lumb
stuart34 21/Jun/10 Lead O/S

No cams!

martrin 18/Jun/10 AltLd

warning the climb is very dirty due to a large rock fall, the chimney pitch contains a new check stone and its big! Top pitch well hard for the grade more HVS.

with Colin Smith
Ed Booth 25/May/10 Lead O/S
nigel pearson 23/May/10 AltLd O/S

I did the final pitch. initial crack was very greasy and a fantastic traditional struggle. I turned the crag blue with my language. HVS anyone?

with Robin
JonBrown 22/May/10 AltLd O/S

Tom lead 1st, I seconded in trainers was so wet. Lead 2nd pitch (a two move wonder), Robin lead 3rd. 4th Pitch was corner crack slimefest and alas had to back off. After cloggy spat us off, we regroupped by swiming in the lake and bouldered in the evening sun. Rad

with Robin Head, Tom Smart
Robin Head 22/May/10 AltLd O/S

last pitch was a slimefest so we decided it was safer to back off. I lead pitch number 3. Tom did the first one and Jon the 2nd pitch

DubyaJamesDubya 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bevan
Hidden ??/2010 -
gritrash0 ??/2010 -
TimPerkin 13/Sep/09 AltLd dog
with Richard Harris
gregoritos ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with fox
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
centurion05 24/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

VS 5a my arse

with chris thorne
cmsg 24/May/08 AltLd dnf

I attempted fourth pitch. Very hard and sustained. Basically, totally wimped out. And I generally climb a good bit harder. Can't help but think that, whatever the protection, a sustained 5a crack like that is work HVS of anybody's money.

with Luke Gannarelli
Andy Chubb 28/Aug/07 AltLd

Scruffy first pitch, hard and strenuous last pitch - well worth HVS

with Steve Goodman
OffshoreAndy 26/Aug/07 AltLd

P2,4 - trending right crack system on P4[4b variant]

with NCC Kelvin
Hidden 08/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
mike lawrence? ??/2006 -
michael burrows 12/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
with rob geaves
Hidden 21/Sep/02 AltLd O/S
WB ??/1998 -
GuyM ??/1996 -
Rob Davies ?/May/95 2nd
michael burrows 17/Jun/90 AltLd O/S
with john roberts
michaelb1 ?/Jun/90 Lead O/S
with Al T
Guy ??/1990 -
Hidden 14/May/88 Lead
Tom V ??/1984 -
Ian Jones ??/1983 AltLd O/S
with Dave Greenald, Billy Jones, Chris Gore, Tom Jones, Paul Stott, 'Flog'
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
sharpie ?/Jun/77 Solo
Hidden 19/Apr/76 AltLd
petemeads ??/1976 Lead
Bolt Phobia 25/May/74 AltLd
Hidden 14/Apr/74 AltLd
Hidden ??/1974 Lead
Hidden ??/1974 AltLd
uphillnow 25/Aug/73 AltLd

Since done on several occasions

with Dave Ellis
pneame ??/1973 AltLd
rockofades ?/Sep/72 AltLd
with LB
mikej 17/Oct/70 AltLd

When we got back down to the bottom of the crag E advised us that a climber had died high up on Great Slab and that he was being lowered to the base of the west buttress by other climbers. E then donated my old cagoule to cover up the body pending the arrival of a helicopter. RIP

with Geoff Williams
eroica64 30/Aug/70 AltLd
with Barry Cooper, Roger Everett
Gordon Stainforth 26/Aug/70 Lead

'Quite hard for grade. Mark somewhat pressed, so I did all the leading.'

with Mark --?
Campbell42 25/Aug/68 AltLd O/S
with Kim Wainwright
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Dan0Me, peteJ23, ms26g10, alaster tonge, Hidden, Hidden, runestone, Hidden, CM1992, Hidden, Katex, Hidden, Hidden, Sebastien Gastaud, Paul McCallum, Sianny, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, tomkhoward, clive-greenwood
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 18
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set