Pigott's Climb** HVS 5a

Rockfax Description
The original route of the East Buttress. It follows a series of huge stepped-corners. Start to the right of the main crack/corner of Sunset Crack at a stepped left-facing groove leading up to the base of the main part of the cliff.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb leftwards over ledges and follow a corner to a grassy ledge.
2) 5a, 15m. The rib on the right leads to a break-line that leads right to below a short steep corner. Tricky moves up this gain The Conservatory - a large grassy ledge.
3) 4a, 25m. Climb the corner past a ledge on the right and enter the chimney above - generally easy but steep and intimidating - to belay on the large pillar.
4) 5a, 25m. The stepped corner on the right leads with difficulty to the top. An impressive pitch for its time. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs.

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This climb is in 79 logbooks, and on 22 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/15

Hidden - 2015

Hard, not VS for me... Especially slimy!
jezb1 - AltLd - 04/Sep/14

Palindrome - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/14

pitches 1,2,and 4
davewsargent - AltLd - 21/Jun/14 with andy neath

What a sandbag at vs I've heard it's now hvs. Most the pitches bar the last one are vegetated and not worth stars! The last pitch is narrow hands with few jams you can get your hands in to or your feet properly jammed in and there are few foot holds. The gear is nearly the same size for 20 meters. If there wasn't a few old hexes in the crack given the average leaders mountain rack this would be solid e1 and is worth atleast mid grade hvs with the right gear. After the pig hard narrow hands thumb jamming crack you have an off width to contend with, with crux moves you'd hit a ledge on if you messed it up unless you carry a huge cam! The guide book needs to explain the gear issues for this to be fair for hvs and tell the leader about the off hands and off width climbing so they can decide before going up if they want to do that style of climbing! Not pleasant! We abbed off from the offwidth. Beware the turd some total twat did on the second pitch ledge I stepped in this abbing off to add insult to injury - it's quite near the edge of the ledge and in a place many people would stand :( I did my best to scrape it back from the edge and cover it with a flat rock and place leaves over it!
CurlyStevo - AltLd dnf - 21/Jun/14 with Rob

aided my way up it chasing the setting sun! nails!
rbharries - AltLd dog - 14/Jun/14 with Danger olly

mike mo - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

dan gibson - Solo O/S - 19/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13

My jamming needs work.
demarcation86 - Lead dog - 12/Jul/13 with Paul

The hardest VS ever... Sarah accidentally strung P1 and P2 together but fell off the 1st crux initially hitting the ledge..She then did it fine. I lead P3 and P4 together, getting pumped on the bold (unless you have lots of hexes/ cams) upper pitch. Because I didn't have the right cams I had to run it out on the jamming crack at the start of p3. Really thuggy but good climbing
James Oswald - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Sarah Ridgway

francesanncavanagh - 2nd - 08/Jun/13 with George Maxwell, Jake Holland

With Ash Green. Led P1 & P3, Ash led 2 & 4 (the hard bits).
MartF - AltLd - 25/May/13 with Ash

sprout3099 - May/13 with Freeman

jcw - 2013

DubyaJamesDubya - 2013

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/May/12

solo 1st, lead 2nd and conor finished up capricorn
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 27/May/12 with Connor

soph - AltLd - 25/May/12 with Mandy Tee

The top pitch was quite exciting without any hexes or cams that fitted properly into it. Finished up the crack to the right.
RedFox - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Ron D

Roger Cruse - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Kris & Trevor

Abbed off before the last pitch, was so wet couldn't find the bottom of the climb in the mist finally found it was wet and muddy ended up taking a very long time.
Tom Seccombe - Lead dnf - 21/Aug/11 with Mark Robson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/11

Soloed upto 3rd pitch, largely wet. Then got a TR for the the final goppy corner, still have muddy hands from jamming it now.
Alex Mason - Solo O/S - 11/Jul/11

worth it for amazing top pitch. brutal but simple long crack. poss to abb of if defeated
dan ely - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with terry

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/11

Anthony Dixon - Lead - 04/Jun/11

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

2 in situ hexs can be threaded on the first corner of the last pitch, handy if you lack adequate large gear. the last corner looked horrendous with only a chockstone to protect so I followed the 5b crack. the offwidth reminded my of crew cut at millstone
alasdair19 - 2011

First pitch was wet, final pitch would get HVS 5a as a standalone. Hard laybacking and jamming up and intimidating crack. Excellent quality, bivi'd out the night before and climbed the route as a 3, finished as the sun set over an October Cloggy - Awesome.
evilweed - AltLd dog - 16/Oct/10 with Dan

Certainly harder than expected for a VS but a great, well protected climb none-the-less. Much of the excitement was provided by the greasy wet rock on which rock boots refused to smear. Sustained, lay-backing was the order of the day for much of the climb, and there's bomber protection all the way, provided you have enough medium Hexs/Cams (size 3/4 or larger). A good route, worthy of it's stars and probably a promotion to HVS. Pitches led as follows: P1-JL, P2-DL, P3-JL, P4- 1st 1/2 DL, 2nd 1/2 JL.
fragglerock - AltLd dog - 16/Oct/10 with Duncan Johnstone, Jon Lumb

No cams!
stuart34 - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/10 with Joe Shipcott

warning the climb is very dirty due to a large rock fall, the chimney pitch contains a new check stone and its big! Top pitch well hard for the grade more HVS.
martrin - AltLd - 18/Jun/10 with Colin Smith

Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 25/May/10

I did the final pitch. initial crack was very greasy and a fantastic traditional struggle. I turned the crag blue with my language. HVS anyone?
nigel pearson - AltLd O/S - 23/May/10 with Robin

Tom lead 1st, I seconded in trainers was so wet. Lead 2nd pitch (a two move wonder), Robin lead 3rd. 4th Pitch was corner crack slimefest and alas had to back off. After cloggy spat us off, we regroupped by swiming in the lake and bouldered in the evening sun. Rad
JonBrown - AltLd O/S - 22/May/10 with Robin Head, Tom Smart

last pitch was a slimefest so we decided it was safer to back off. I lead pitch number 3. Tom did the first one and Jon the 2nd pitch
Robin Head - AltLd O/S - 22/May/10 with Tom S, Jon Brown

Hidden - 2010

gritrash0 - 2010

TimPerkin - AltLd dog - 13/Sep/09 with Richard Harris

gregoritos - Lead O/S - Jun/09 with fox

Seymore Butt - 2009

VS 5a my arse
centurion05 - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/08 with chris thorne

I attempted fourth pitch. Very hard and sustained. Basically, totally wimped out. And I generally climb a good bit harder. Can't help but think that, whatever the protection, a sustained 5a crack like that is work HVS of anybody's money.
cmsg - AltLd dnf - 24/May/08 with Luke Gannarelli

Scruffy first pitch, hard and strenuous last pitch - well worth HVS
Andy Chubb - AltLd - 28/Aug/07 with Steve Goodman

P2,4 - trending right crack system on P4[4b variant]
OffshoreAndy - AltLd - 26/Aug/07 with NCC Kelvin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/07

mike lawrence? - 2006

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/05 with rob geaves

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/02

WB - 1998

GuyM - 1996

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/90 with john roberts

michaelb1 - Lead O/S - Jun/90 with Al T

Guy - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 14/May/88

Tom V - 1984

Ian Jones - AltLd O/S - 1983 with Dave Greenald, Billy Jones, Chris Gore, Tom Jones, Paul Stott, 'Flog'

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

granitbahn - AltLd - 1978

sharpie - Solo - Jun/77

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Apr/76

petemeads - Lead - 1976

Bolt Phobia - AltLd - 25/May/74

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Apr/74

Hidden - Lead - 1974

Hidden - AltLd - 1974

Since done on several occasions
uphillnow - AltLd - 25/Aug/73 with Dave Ellis

pneame - AltLd - 1973

rockofades - AltLd - Sep/72 with LB

When we got back down to the bottom of the crag E advised us that a climber had died high up on Great Slab and that he was being lowered to the base of the west buttress by other climbers. E then donated my old cagoule to cover up the body pending the arrival of a helicopter. RIP
mikej - AltLd - 17/Oct/70 with Geoff Williams

eroica64 - AltLd - 30/Aug/70 with Barry Cooper, Roger Everett

'Quite hard for grade. Mark somewhat pressed, so I did all the leading.'
Gordon Stainforth - Lead - 26/Aug/70 with Mark --?

Campbell42 - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/68 with Kim Wainwright

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Dan0Me, peteJ23, ms26g10, alaster tonge, runestone, CM1992, Katex, Sebastien Gastaud, Paul McCallum, Sianny, tomkhoward, clive-greenwood

Total votes cast 50
hard E10 of 17
E10 of 17
easy E10 of 17
hard HVS2 of 17
HVS1 of 17
easy HVS11 of 17
hard VS2 of 17
VS1 of 17
easy VS0 of 17
hard 5b0 of 17
5b2 of 17
easy 5b0 of 17
hard 5a4 of 17
5a10 of 17
easy 5a1 of 17
hard 4c0 of 17
4c0 of 17
easy 4c0 of 17
3 Stars2 of 16
2 Stars13 of 16
1 Star1 of 16
0 Stars0 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
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