Hard, not VS for me... Especially slimy!
jezb1 - AltLd - 04/Sep/14
pitches 1,2,and 4
davewsargent - AltLd - 21/Jun/14 with andy neath
What a sandbag at vs I've heard it's now hvs. Most the pitches bar the last one are vegetated and not worth stars! The last pitch is narrow hands with few jams you can get your hands in to or your feet properly jammed in and there are few foot holds. The gear is nearly the same size for 20 meters. If there wasn't a few old hexes in the crack given the average leaders mountain rack this would be solid e1 and is worth atleast mid grade hvs with the right gear. After the pig hard narrow hands thumb jamming crack you have an off width to contend with, with crux moves you'd hit a ledge on if you messed it up unless you carry a huge cam! The guide book needs to explain the gear issues for this to be fair for hvs and tell the leader about the off hands and off width climbing so they can decide before going up if they want to do that style of climbing! Not pleasant! We abbed off from the offwidth. Beware the turd some total twat did on the second pitch ledge I stepped in this abbing off to add insult to injury - it's quite near the edge of the ledge and in a place many people would stand :( I did my best to scrape it back from the edge and cover it with a flat rock and place leaves over it!
CurlyStevo - AltLd dnf - 21/Jun/14 with Rob
aided my way up it chasing the setting sun! nails!
rbharries - AltLd dog - 14/Jun/14 with Danger olly
mike mo - 2014
Allanfairfechan - 2014
dan gibson - Solo O/S - 19/Jul/13
P1 & P3 Chris
P2 & P4 Me
Hard work on the top pitch.
slacky - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Chris Saunders
My jamming needs work.
demarcation86 - Lead dog - 12/Jul/13 with Paul
The hardest VS ever...
Sarah accidentally strung P1 and P2 together but fell off the 1st crux initially hitting the ledge..She then did it fine.
I lead P3 and P4 together, getting pumped on the bold (unless you have lots of hexes/ cams) upper pitch. Because I didn't have the right cams I had to run it out on the jamming crack at the start of p3. Really thuggy but good climbing
James Oswald - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Sarah Ridgway
francesanncavanagh - 2nd - 08/Jun/13 with George Maxwell, Jake Holland
With Ash Green. Led P1 & P3, Ash led 2 & 4 (the hard bits).
MartF - AltLd - 25/May/13 with Ash
sprout3099 - May/13 with Freeman
jcw - 2013
DubyaJamesDubya - 2013
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/May/12
solo 1st, lead 2nd and conor finished up capricorn
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 27/May/12 with Connor
soph - AltLd - 25/May/12 with Mandy Tee
The top pitch was quite exciting without any hexes or cams that fitted properly into it. Finished up the crack to the right.
RedFox - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Ron D
Roger Cruse - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Kris & Trevor
Abbed off before the last pitch, was so wet couldn't find the bottom of the climb in the mist finally found it was wet and muddy ended up taking a very long time.
Tom Seccombe - Lead dnf - 21/Aug/11 with Mark Robson
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/11
Soloed upto 3rd pitch, largely wet. Then got a TR for the the final goppy corner, still have muddy hands from jamming it now.
Alex Mason - Solo O/S - 11/Jul/11
worth it for amazing top pitch. brutal but simple long crack. poss to abb of if defeated
dan ely - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with terry
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11
Hidden - AltLd - Jul/11
Anthony Dixon - Lead - 04/Jun/11
Hidden - 2011
PAJames - 2011
PAJames - 2011
2 in situ hexs can be threaded on the first corner of the last pitch, handy if you lack adequate large gear. the last corner looked horrendous with only a chockstone to protect so I followed the 5b crack.
the offwidth reminded my of crew cut at millstone
alasdair19 - 2011
First pitch was wet, final pitch would get HVS 5a as a standalone. Hard laybacking and jamming up and intimidating crack.
Excellent quality, bivi'd out the night before and climbed the route as a 3, finished as the sun set over an October Cloggy - Awesome.
evilweed - AltLd dog - 16/Oct/10 with Dan
Certainly harder than expected for a VS but a great, well protected climb none-the-less. Much of the excitement was provided by the greasy wet rock on which rock boots refused to smear. Sustained, lay-backing was the order of the day for much of the climb, and there's bomber protection all the way, provided you have enough medium Hexs/Cams (size 3/4 or larger).
A good route, worthy of it's stars and probably a promotion to HVS.
Pitches led as follows:
P1-JL, P2-DL, P3-JL, P4- 1st 1/2 DL, 2nd 1/2 JL.
fragglerock - AltLd dog - 16/Oct/10 with Duncan Johnstone, Jon Lumb
stuart34 - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/10 with Joe Shipcott
warning the climb is very dirty due to a large rock fall, the chimney pitch contains a new check stone and its big!
Top pitch well hard for the grade more HVS.
martrin - AltLd - 18/Jun/10 with Colin Smith
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 25/May/10
I did the final pitch. initial crack was very greasy and a fantastic traditional struggle. I turned the crag blue with my language. HVS anyone?
nigel pearson - AltLd O/S - 23/May/10 with Robin
Tom lead 1st, I seconded in trainers was so wet. Lead 2nd pitch (a two move wonder), Robin lead 3rd. 4th Pitch was corner crack slimefest and alas had to back off. After cloggy spat us off, we regroupped by swiming in the lake and bouldered in the evening sun. Rad
JonBrown - AltLd O/S - 22/May/10 with Robin Head, Tom Smart
last pitch was a slimefest so we decided it was safer to back off. I lead pitch number 3. Tom did the first one and Jon the 2nd pitch
Robin Head - AltLd O/S - 22/May/10 with Tom S, Jon Brown
Hidden - 2010
gritrash0 - 2010
TimPerkin - AltLd dog - 13/Sep/09 with Richard Harris
gregoritos - Lead O/S - Jun/09 with fox
Seymore Butt - 2009
VS 5a my arse
centurion05 - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/08 with chris thorne
I attempted fourth pitch. Very hard and sustained. Basically, totally wimped out. And I generally climb a good bit harder. Can't help but think that, whatever the protection, a sustained 5a crack like that is work HVS of anybody's money.
cmsg - AltLd dnf - 24/May/08 with Luke Gannarelli
Scruffy first pitch, hard and strenuous last pitch - well worth HVS
Andy Chubb - AltLd - 28/Aug/07 with Steve Goodman
P2,4 - trending right crack system on P4[4b variant]
OffshoreAndy - AltLd - 26/Aug/07 with NCC Kelvin
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/07
mike lawrence? - 2006
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/05 with rob geaves
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/02
WB - 1998
GuyM - 1996
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/90 with john roberts
Guy - 1990
Hidden - Lead - 14/May/88
Tom V - 1984
Ian Jones - AltLd O/S - 1983 with Dave Greenald, Billy Jones, Chris Gore, Tom Jones, Paul Stott, 'Flog'
Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980
granitbahn - AltLd - 1978
sharpie - Solo - Jun/77
Hidden - AltLd - 19/Apr/76
petemeads - Lead - 1976
Bolt Phobia - AltLd - 25/May/74
Hidden - AltLd - 14/Apr/74
Hidden - Lead - 1974
Paul Clarke - AltLd - 1974 with FMC
Since done on several occasions
David Smith - AltLd - 25/Aug/73 with Dave Ellis
pneame - AltLd - 1973
rockofades - AltLd - Sep/72 with LB
When we got back down to the bottom of the crag E advised us that a climber had died high up on Great Slab and that he was being lowered to the base of the west buttress by other climbers. E then donated my old cagoule to cover up the body pending the arrival of a helicopter. RIP
mikej - AltLd - 17/Oct/70 with Geoff Williams
eroica64 - AltLd - 30/Aug/70 with Barry Cooper, Roger Everett
'Quite hard for grade. Mark somewhat pressed, so I did all the leading.'
Gordon Stainforth - Lead - 26/Aug/70 with Mark --?
Campbell42 - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/68 with Kim Wainwright