Gwynedd > Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy) >
 
Pigott's Climb** VS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Capricorn
 
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The original route of the East Buttress follows a series of huge stepped-corners. 1) 4a, 18m. Climb leftwards over ledges to follow a corner to a grassy ledge. 2) 4b, 15m. Head rightwards towards a corner which leads to another grass ledge. 3) 25m. Climb the corner and chimney above easily to belay on the large pillar. 4) 5a, 25m. The corner leads with difficulty to the top. An impressive pitch for the time. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, North Wales Rock Graded List.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 54 logbooks, and on 17 wishlists.

conorcussell - AltLd O/S - 27/May/12

solo 1st, lead 2nd and conor finished up capricorn
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 27/May/12 with Connor

soph - AltLd - 25/May/12 with Mandy Tee

The top pitch was quite exciting without any hexes or cams that fitted properly into it. Finished up the crack to the right.
RedFox - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Ron D

Roger Cruse - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Kris & Trevor

Abbed off before the last pitch, was so wet couldn't find the bottom of the climb in the mist finally found it was wet and muddy ended up taking a very long time.
Tom Seccombe - Lead dnf - 21/Aug/11 with Mark Robson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/11

Soloed upto 3rd pitch, largely wet. Then got a TR for the the final goppy corner, still have muddy hands from jamming it now.
Alex Mason - Solo O/S - 11/Jul/11

worth it for amazing top pitch. brutal but simple long crack. poss to abb of if defeated
dan ely - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with terry

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/11

Anthony Dixon - Lead - 04/Jun/11

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

2 in situ hexs can be threaded on the first corner of the last pitch, handy if you lack adequate large gear. the last corner looked horrendous with only a chockstone to protect so I followed the 5b crack. the offwidth reminded my of crew cut at millstone
alasdair19 - 2011

First pitch was wet, final pitch would get HVS 5a as a standalone. Hard laybacking and jamming up and intimidating crack. Excellent quality, bivi'd out the night before and climbed the route as a 3, finished as the sun set over an October Cloggy - Awesome.
evilweed - AltLd dog - 16/Oct/10 with Dan

Certainly harder than expected for a VS but a great, well protected climb none-the-less. Much of the excitement was provided by the greasy wet rock on which rock boots refused to smear. Sustained, lay-backing was the order of the day for much of the climb, and there's bomber protection all the way, provided you have enough medium Hexs/Cams (size 3/4 or larger). A good route, worthy of it's stars and probably a promotion to HVS. Pitches led as follows: P1-JL, P2-DL, P3-JL, P4- 1st 1/2 DL, 2nd 1/2 JL.
fragglerock - AltLd dog - 16/Oct/10 with Duncan Johnstone, Jon Lumb

No cams!
stuart34 - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/10 with Joe Shipcott

warning the climb is very dirty due to a large rock fall, the chimney pitch contains a new check stone and its big! Top pitch well hard for the grade more HVS.
martrin - AltLd - 18/Jun/10 with Colin Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/10

I did the final pitch. initial crack was very greasy and a fantastic traditional struggle. I turned the crag blue with my language. HVS anyone?
nigel pearson - AltLd O/S - 23/May/10 with Robin

Tom lead 1st, I seconded in trainers was so wet. Lead 2nd pitch (a two move wonder), Robin lead 3rd. 4th Pitch was corner crack slimefest and alas had to back off. After cloggy spat us off, we regroupped by swiming in the lake and bouldered in the evening sun. Rad
JonBrown - AltLd O/S - 22/May/10 with Robin Head, Tom Smart

last pitch was a slimefest so we decided it was safer to back off. I lead pitch number 3. Tom did the first one and Jon the 2nd pitch
Robin Head - AltLd O/S - 22/May/10 with Tom S, Jon Brown

Hidden - 2010

gritrash0 - 2010

TimPerkin - AltLd dog - 13/Sep/09 with Richard Harris

gregoritos - Lead O/S - Jun/09 with fox

Seymore Butt - 2009

VS 5a my arse
centurion05 - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/08 with chris thorne

I attempted fourth pitch. Very hard and sustained. Basically, totally wimped out. And I generally climb a good bit harder. Can't help but think that, whatever the protection, a sustained 5a crack like that is work HVS of anybody's money.
cmsg - AltLd dnf - 24/May/08 with Luke Gannarelli

Scruffy first pitch, hard and strenuous last pitch - well worth HVS
Andy Chubb - AltLd - 28/Aug/07 with Steve Goodman

P2,4 - trending right crack system on P4[4b variant]
OffshoreAndy - AltLd - 26/Aug/07 with NCC Kelvin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/07

mikelawrence aka jonnienomates - 2006

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/05 with rob geaves

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/02

WB - 1998

GuyM - 1996

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/90 with john roberts

Guy - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 14/May/88

Tom V - 1984

Ian Jones - AltLd O/S - 1983 with Dave Greenald, Billy Jones, Chris Gore, Tom Jones, Paul Stott, 'Flog'

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

granitbahn - AltLd - 1978

petemeads - Lead - 1976

Bolt Phobia - AltLd - 25/May/74

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Apr/74

Steve Woollard - Lead - 1974 with Doug Adams

Since done on several occasions
David Smith - AltLd - 25/Aug/73 with Dave Ellis

pneame - AltLd - 1973

'Quite hard for grade. Mark somewhat pressed, so I did all the leading.'
Gordon Stainforth - Lead - 26/Aug/70 with Mark --?

Campbell42 - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/68 with Kim Wainwright

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
MikeStuart26, runestone, Hidden, CM1992, Hidden, Katex, Hidden, Hidden, Sebastien Gastaud, augustus trout, Paul McCallum, Sianny, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, tomkhoward, clive-greenwood

Voting
Total votes cast 37
hard HVS0 of 12
HVS0 of 12
easy HVS10 of 12
hard VS1 of 12
VS1 of 12
easy VS0 of 12
hard HS0 of 12
HS0 of 12
easy HS0 of 12
hard 5b0 of 13
5b0 of 13
easy 5b0 of 13
hard 5a3 of 13
5a9 of 13
easy 5a1 of 13
hard 4c0 of 13
4c0 of 13
easy 4c0 of 13
3 Stars0 of 12
2 Stars12 of 12
1 Star0 of 12
0 Stars0 of 12
Bag of .....0 of 12
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 54 (1.9%)
Lead10 of 54 (18.5%)
Followed1 of 54 (1.9%)
Alt Leads30 of 54 (55.6%)
Unknown12 of 54 (22.2%)

'Climbed'28 of 54 (51.9%)
clean O/S21 of 54 (38.9%)
dogged3 of 54 (5.6%)
dnf2 of 54 (3.7%)