A Midsummer Night's Dream*** E6 6a
[Sean the Belgian, A Midsummer Night's Dream, Cloggy., 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
A long and challenging route with three big pitches up the Great Wall. Like Right Wall and Lord, the route is considered easier when someone has done the hard work and chalked it up for you. Start on a small grassy ledge halfway between Great Wall and November.
1) 6a, 26m. Trend up and left making your way towards ledges and a peg. Move up and slightly right to a wire looped over an old bolt. Move up and slightly left to a peg hidden in a flake/groove on the left (easy to miss). A hard laybacking type move and reach lead over a bulge to where a line of holds lead leftwards to just above the belay of Great Wall, step down and belay.
2) 6a, 23m. Follow Great Wall up the groove for about 10m, to a move left onto a tiny ledge on the wall. A thin and technical wall above leads to holds that track left to the belay on Daurigol.
3) 6a, 28m. Easy climbing leads up and left towards Chimney Route - stop just before this. Head up to the steep arete - a side-runner to the right protects the initial steep section. A powerful series of moves up this leads to an easing in both angle and difficulty. Collapse onto the ledge above knowing you have just completed one of the best E6s in the country. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Super Route E6's, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff.

Photo: Sean the Belgian, A Midsummer Night's Dream, Cloggy. © alex
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This climb is in 25 logbooks, and on 22 wishlists.

I lead 1st and 3rd pitches. First pitch felt like the meat of the E6, although apparently an E5 pitch. Very spaced in situ gear. Second pitch run out but safe, 3rd pitch safe with good gear and just a short hard sequence. Annoyingly fell off the top pitch. Cool route!
morganator - AltLd - 03/Jul/15 with Sophie Whyte

soph - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/15 with jon morgan

Hidden - 2015

P1 only. Will be back. One of the best pitches I've ever done without doubt. Without ever being desperate its also never easy, immaculate!
nathanlee - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Anna Gilyeat

P1 only. Class. Bold. Felt same as the Cad and Rainbow of Recalcitrance.
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/14 with Angus Kille, Nick Dixon

just awesome, great to do it on a midsummer night with clog-master general Nick. P1 only. perfect delicate moves run-out up the slab. love!
anguskille - Lead β - 23/Jun/14 with Nick Dixon, Ed Booth

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Jul/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/May/12

Led all three pitches
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - Lead O/S - May/12 with Helena Robinson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10

1st and second
barni - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10 with luke

On Misummer's day! Led 1 and 3.
Luke Brooks - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Barni

Led second pitch. Sustained route with all pitches being E5, except maybe the top which is just about E6 in its own right, maybe. Brilliant, found first pitch thin and sustained, Second pitch had a good fun run-out. And the third has a scary steep section to finish.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 26/May/10 with George Ullrich

1st pitch only. Mad! Fantastic weather...shorts on cloggy!
Rich Kirby - 2nd O/S - 22/May/10 with Ed Brown

First pitch only with Rich Kirby
edinbed - Lead O/S - 22/May/10

first pitch. Hard E5 or soft E6
lukehunt - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/09 with The Master!, Tom Brookes

soft E5, not E6 by a long shot
IOAN D - Lead O/S - 24/May/08 with Mills

1st Pitch Only
Steve Crowe - Lead β - 17/Apr/03 with KM

sharpie - 2nd O/S - Aug/01 with Martyn

Pitch 1 only (E5)
jfletcher - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/90 with Graham Baxter

wearing size 7 fires - 1 size too big with thick football socks - not the best... awesome route
mark mcgowan01 - AltLd O/S - Jul/86 with Andy Popp

Hidden - 1985

Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/83 with Al Simpson

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Jul/77

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
wi11, jamestaylor92, theomoore, richiebongo, CM1992, dominic lee, McGuinness, samrad, Mike Goldthorp, Dan Lane, obyrnechris, Ian Jones, datoon, fennerz, Ed Booth, nicholas Barrowclough

Total votes cast 16
hard E70 of 5
E70 of 5
easy E70 of 5
hard E60 of 5
E62 of 5
easy E63 of 5
hard E50 of 5
E50 of 5
easy E50 of 5
hard 6b0 of 6
6b0 of 6
easy 6b0 of 6
hard 6a4 of 6
6a2 of 6
easy 6a0 of 6
hard 5c0 of 6
5c0 of 6
easy 5c0 of 6
3 Stars5 of 5
2 Stars0 of 5
1 Star0 of 5
0 Stars0 of 5
Bag of .....0 of 5
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β