The Troach*** E2 5b
[Start of P2 of Troach (looks slabbier than perhaps it is!), 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
A magnificent bold wall-climb giving open and exposed climbing on good holds with spaced protection.
1) 4c, 10m. Climb the large flake onto the pedestal and belay, as for Curving Crack.
2) 5b, 45m. Move out right passing a narrow corner, then head up via a hard move to a small quartz ledge. Move up and left gaining a small groove and follow it for 13m past an old peg. Move right and head up with difficult to an overlap and more ageing ironmongery. Go right to gain better holds and a short groove leading to a large flake. Traditionally the belay is here, but continuing up left onto the arete makes for a better pitch and a more comfortable belay.
3) 5a, 12m. Finish easily up the arete as for Curving Crack. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist.

Photo: Start of P2 of Troach (looks slabbier than perhaps it is!) © chrishedgehog
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 165 logbooks, and on 36 wishlists.

Hidden - 2015

Hidden - 2015

P1. Leon linked P2 & P3 - great lead. Some tough moves on P2 esp. at start.
Gudge - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/14 with Leon Winchester

Lenny - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/14 with Chris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/14

Andrew Wilson - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/14 with Matt Nuttall

Lead P2
mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/14 with Andy Wilson

Wonderful climb, lovely big jugs, big moves between each hold. At 5 foot 2, the move from the first belay onto the jug was fairly tricky.
Kate Edhouse - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Neils PYB

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14

Lead the great main pitch. Bold.
Callum_Johnson - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/14 with Uisdean

Uisdean hawthorn - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/14 with Callum_Johnson

P1: JR, P2: CH, P3: JR. I was happy to really attack the starting moves up the quartz because the first runners were very encouraging. Lovely, open, run-out climbing. We debated if it is bold or just run-out. Not run-out on the hard bits. Thought the top pitch had a bit of an E1 4c thing going on...
chrishedgehog - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/14

Stig - AltLd rpt - 30/Jun/14 with Chris

P1+2 after Alex backed off the reachy move at the start of P2. Run out and fun. Arrived at the crag bathed in sunshine at 7.30am, but it was mostly gone from the Troach when we set off at 8.
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/14 with AlexD

Backed off start of second pitch (crux?) didn't fancy the swing onto the belay ledge if i couldn't make the reach. Led pitch 3, terrifying moment when the block i was holding halfway up with my only gear on it wobbled as I pulled up on it!
AlexD - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/14 with Ed

Led P2 and P3 (ran together). No gear on P3!
GPN - AltLd - 21/Jun/14 with Misha

Misha - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/14 with George

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/14

mega, dont bother with the belay at the end of the main pitch, do it in a oner. Belay would be uncomfortable and no gear on the 5a pitch so a fall would be straight on the belay. ropes reach too so no point. amazing route
jamesturnbull - Lead - 16/Jun/14 with tom grant

Felt like 5c move gaining the quartz ledge. Third pitch was scary.
MONKEY78 - 15/Jun/14 with adam ellwood

Hidden - 2014

ejected - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

bold and brilliant
Ginger McGrath - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/13 with rob, pete abernethy

Led P1&3. Hard start on P2 and bold up to the arete on P3
Mattlamb90 - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Ryan

spidey - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13 with mat lamb

Really great and with actually quite well protected crux on P2.
Grezza - Lead - 20/Jul/13 with Paul E

Fantastic face climbing with a surprising number of juggy holds for an E2. Lovely finish up the arÍte after the strenuous face.
Palindrome - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Jul/13

drysori - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/13

Dan Mckinlay - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/13

Strung the main and last pitches togeather. Pretty damn bold... But juggy all the way
dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Darren McMaster

Took first pitch of curving crack, tried to practice jamming but not a chance. Good fun moving between big jugs on the rest, looked like a very bold though!
shed_hed - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Dougie Swanson-Low

ian caton - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Abi

Superb! Led pitches 2 & 3 - both bold but all the holds are there.
climbingpixie - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Maria

Led first (VS jamming) pitch, seconded 2nd and 3rd pitches.
maria85 - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Julie

Backed off 5b pitch - led final pitch only
Abi Chard - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Ian

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/13

Seconded main pitch
Stig - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/13 with Simon

Fantastic second pitch. The hardest part was the starting corner of Curving Crack!
Andrew Barker - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/13 with Si

1st and 3rd pitch
Speeddemonsi - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/13

Good. Bold but relatively easy.
Duncan Campbell - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Ollie B

Amazing perfect line. Top pitch more like E3
Sardien - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Noddy

Lead P2. Bold start, awesome moves, there is decent gear after that, a little spaced but it allows the climbing to 'flow' which makes the route so good.
Olli-C - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Rachel Slater

Lead pitch 1 and 3. Lovely wall climbing.
Rachel Slater - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Olli Crudge

5a top pitch. No real gear. needs a pretty solid leader.
wolverine - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Chris Coleman

Ollie B - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with D.Campbell

The Grist - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/13 with Sam Simpson

Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/13 with Mark Grist

Led pitches 1 and 3.
georgedunton - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/13 with Stuart Lade

jcw - 2013

Lead P1 - crack/corner. Found this difficult but I expected it. Well protected with cams. Good fun. Seconded P2 which seemed a bit beyond me - sustained , technical climbing. Well done Jan. didn't have energy left for P3 so abseiled off and went home.
DaveMo - AltLd dnf - 26/May/12 with Jan

Bob - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 12/Jul/11 with Gareth E

Had P1 and P3, committing long reach to start off the crux pitch..3rd is bold but fine, had a sling around a wobbly jug a few meters above the belay!
chriscarroll - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/11 with Owain

P2, great climbing! Committing start to pitch 2 and bold final pitch
owain86 - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/11 with Chris

4c, 5b, 5a - led P2
givemetea - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/11 with Dan Gibson

dan gibson - 2nd rpt - 04/Jul/11 with roslyn mckendry

2nd Pitch, good moves.
mynyddresident - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with gareth

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11

NickJH - 2nd - Jul/11 with LiamG

david morse - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/11 with mark A, todd

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/11

markalmack - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/11

Ram MkiV - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Guy

false start trying main pitch, handed ropes over to Rammo. first move turned out to be easy, the rest not so. Heroically lead the arete to the top for my pitch. . .
GuyVG - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Steve

great route, the thin part of the second pitch is also bold, but not too hard. the third pitch is also bold straight from the belay. Great route, not a pushover
centurion05 - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11

Led 1st and 3rd. Weight just came onto the rope seconding crux pitch, but I did have the rucksack. 3rd pitch was my boldist lead yet. Great climbing.
HIGHTOWER - AltLd - 09/Apr/11 with Andy Woolston

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

phil64 - 2011

Committing moves at the start of P2. Thereafter pretty steady. P1 was sopping wet - made it pretty tough!
gforce - Lead - 15/Aug/10 with Kath

tallsop - 25/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Jun/10

Led 2nd (crux) pitch.
dave657 - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Mike

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/10 with Graham Charman

Graham C - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/10 with Marti

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/10

Lead 3rd pitch only. Won the toss for the crux pitch but couldn't commit to the initial long reach. Traversed back and forth from the belay to the move atleast three time before handing the ropes over to Mat, who ofcourse lead it in great style. Pissed off that I backed off such a fantastic pitch. Will be back to lead it, but that sour taste will always be there when I see the name!
lrandall - AltLd - 03/Jun/10 with Matteusz

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/May/10

dodfoster - Lead O/S - 24/May/10 with sam farnsworth

awesome, glad to have a grade or two in hand!?
phil64 - Lead - May/10

I led the main pitch. Brilliant pitch of climbing. Quite bold, but alot of good holds, thinlk it would be hard if E2 was your limit.
Ed Booth - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/10

Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Ed Booth

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/10

ed lead the crux pitch. Me 1 and 3.
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/10 with ed-v12

zukator - Lead - 2010

Rob Greenwood - UKC - Lead O/S - 2010

the juicy dangler - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/09 with rob greenwood

nutallovertheface - AltLd O/S - Jun/09 with Steve

gregoritos - Lead O/S - Jun/09 with fox

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09

Seymore Butt - 2009

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/08 with sam read

ChalkBall - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/08 with Luke Brooks

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/08 with Ryan Brooks

Nicos - Lead O/S - 31/May/08 with frazer

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

Hidden - 2nd - 2008

Marcus - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/07

a_radiohead_fan - Sep/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/06

chris j - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/06 with Ben Bradford

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/06

Bold but technically easy and a classic at the grade.
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - Jun/06 with Jo

mike lawrence? - 2006

frost - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with D Garry

one of the best routes i have ever done
WB - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/05 with Jim

nicholas Barrowclough - Lead - May/05 with Mike Doyle

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/04

Pylon King Against Capit@lism - AltLd O/S - Jul/03 with Fed up

D Tempest - AltLd O/S - 2000 with Chris, Rick

Hidden - Lead - 1998

rob.grafton - Lead - 1997 with tony howard, Matthew Bransby, Simon Wood

sadams - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/96 with John Boyle

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/95 with Nick Ashton

Mark led crux
David Smith - AltLd - 29/Jun/95 with Mark Gray

Hidden - AltLd - 06/May/95

Campbell42 - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/94 with Chris Wilson

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/94

Billg - Lead O/S - 1991 with Jon Barton, Dave Gregory

Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 05/May/90 with Andy Mackay

mik1miller - Lead O/S - 1990 with bernie bradbury

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Jun/89

craig d - 1989

MikeYouCanClimb - Lead O/S - 1989 with Graham Evans

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Jun/88

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Jun/88

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead O/S - 14/May/88 with Luke Steer

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Jun/86

Hidden - 1985

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 10/Jul/83 with Charlie Leverton

I think Kim led the big pitch.
Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 25/Jul/82 with Kim Greenald

Mike Owen - 03/Jun/82 with Bill Young, Al Simpson

Pedro50 - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/81 with Steve White

Nic Robinson - Lead O/S - 24/May/80 with John Tout

Hidden - 2nd - 02/May/80

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Nic Robinson - Lead O/S - 1980 with John Tout

robinsi197 - 1980 with Barbara

Hidden - AltLd - 28/May/78

Hard on a cold day. Compared to other upgrades I am surprised this isn't awarded E3 now.
Ian Jones - 2nd O/S - 1978 with Dave Greenald

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 14/Aug/77 with Paul Clark

steve L - Lead O/S - 28/May/77 with sharpie

petemeads - Lead - 1976

sharpie - 2nd O/S - Apr/74 with Phill Thomas

mikej - AltLd dnf - 13/Jun/70 with Bill Church

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
EyebrowTom, hutchay, Ash Sayers, andycash, Graham C, Edvenables, Col Kingshott, slacky, JonmapDL, Owen W-G, Alan100, CM1992, Just Another Dave, andy dunn, leon, mattmurphy, rustaldo, Mr Powly, alexanderjwatts, Ropeboy, Siderunner, samrad, Mike Goldthorp, Ched

Total votes cast 122
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