Rockfax Description
A bit harder than its left-hand companion, it features a superb, bold and exposed traverse across the face.
1) 4c, 15m. As for Left Edge.
2) 5a, 30m. A committing move gains the gently-rising traverse line which leads delicately rightwards for about 10m. A further heart-in-mouth move gains another slightly higher traverse in a similar vein. A final move up gains a stance just left of the corner.
3) 5a, 15m. Move up and right into the corner of The Black Cleft then pull up left and around the overhang above to a belay.
4) 40m. The slabby gully leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist.

UncleMephisto 03/Oct AltLd dnf

Abbed off after traverse pitch due to nightfall. Traverse is bold!

with Kin Choi
Hidden ??/2015 -
Andrew Wilson 10/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Matt Nuttall
mattnuttall 09/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Wet on Andy's P2...

with Andy Wilson
wi11 24/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

P1&2 in one. Steady climbing but bold

with Will S
Bob ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 AltLd
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
Nicole Almond 21/Jul/13 AltLd

Good traverse with nice moves. Good for gear placement practise on the top pitch.

with Dad
Dave Almond 21/Jul/13 AltLd
Diggler 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with andyob
andyob 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Great climb, takes less gear than I thought it would, very grassy at the end of second pitch and belay placement are few, and lots of loose rocks around.

with Diggler
Julesthe1st 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Mike
dan gibson 19/Jul/13 Solo O/S
alasdair19 ?/Jul/13 AltLd
jcw ??/2013 -
Alex Mason 11/Jul/11 Solo O/S

Reached a wet section on the traverse pitch a few metres from belay, scary.

Hidden 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S
tim newton 21/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with dan ely
dan ely 21/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with tim
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Owain Llewelyn 03/Sep/10 Lead

Climbing straightforward but you don't want to fall off!

with Dad
barni 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Comrad, luke
Luke Brooks 19/Jun/10 AltLd
with Konrad Doyle, Barni
Hidden 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Duncan Campbell 26/May/10 AltLd O/S

Bubbles got crux pitch :( I got cold belaying him then he got more outes done after :( cool route though!

with Bubbles
Hidden 23/May/10 2nd O/S
tomhull 23/May/10 Lead O/S

scary traverse and lots of loose on the steep second pitch, great climb

with matt harris
reg_measures ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with timmy elson
Hidden ?/May/09 AltLd
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Nicos 31/May/08 Lead O/S
with frazer
Joe Dove 29/May/08 Lead

L pitch 1 & 3

with kev
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
chris j 04/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Ben Bradford
Andy Clarke 01/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Led P2&4. John did the Moscow Variation for P3. Afterwards, walking back down the Eastern Terrace, we both detected a strong smell of pipe tobacco... but no one else was around. Longland's ghost?

with Johnny
frost ?/Aug/05 AltLd
with D Garry
mike lawrence? 01/Jul/05 -
with Alex B
BenTiffin ?/May/05 AltLd
with Andy Bissell
Hidden ?/Jul/01 AltLd O/S
NeilGriffiths ??/2000 Lead
with James Hubbard
zero six ??/1998 AltLd O/S
michael burrows 25/Sep/97 AltLd rpt

led 1st pitch

with richard parry
rob.grafton ??/1997 Lead
with tony howard, Matthew Bransby, Simon Wood
biggianthead 14/Sep/96 -
with C
Duncan I ?/Jul/96 -
with Myles Jordan
Hidden ?/Jul/96 AltLd
uphillnow 29/Jun/95 Lead
Hidden 25/Jun/95 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/91 AltLd
Hidden ??/1990 2nd
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Jun/89 Lead O/S
with Jean Williamson
Hidden 27/May/89 AltLd
Hidden 19/Jun/88 AltLd
michael burrows 23/Jun/87 AltLd O/S
with karl harrison
howifeel ??/1987 AltLd

Nice fall at the top overlap gave me more oompa.

with Morgan
Hidden ??/1985 -
charlesmfrench 14/Aug/83 AltLd O/S
with Nick
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Ian Jones ??/1979 AltLd O/S

Massively over-hyped.

with Little Pete from Aber Uni.
granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
mikej 14/Aug/76 Lead
with Mike Byles
Mark Kemball 10/Jul/76 2nd
with Dave "Hamish" Wilkinson
Bolt Phobia ?/Apr/76 2nd dnf
with Martyn Hurn
paul59 05/Jul/75 2nd dnf
with Geoff Read
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 19
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set