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Queer Lodgings E1 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Galadriel's Gash
 
Pippin Variations >>
10m. The face to the right of the chimney (Galadriel's Gash) gives some good climbing protected by small wires and with only a little suspect rock near the start. Bridge/layback up the short corner on the right, then swing left to gain a foot ledge. Move up the small slab to gain holds high on the right. Rock up leftwards onto an obvious foothold on the steeper headwall, stretching left to gain a hidden finger slot. Finish straight up to block/thread belays. Alternatively climb the groove and crack on the right to finish (easier, probably HVS 5a but still good). Descend by scrambling right and dropping down an easy gully.
M.S.Davies/B Mullan (both led) 15/Mar/2012
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This climb is in 6 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Couldnt see anything obvious on the headwall, so moved right and up.
Mayaculpa - 2nd - 14/Nov/13 with Peter

Didn't see how to do the E1 headwall (couple of bomber wires below and on it, but no holds), so went out slightly right to do what is probably the HVS version. Quite nice I thought. --- Reading the description now, I started from the left instead of from the right at the bottom of the climb. And the description given for the headwall would have been useful to have. Next time...
pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 14/Nov/13 with Mike

I rather enjoyed it for the fun moves on the head wall.
Poco Loco - Lead O/S - 29/May/12 with Bald Eagle

BALD EAGLE - 2nd - 29/May/12 with James Pomeroy

FA
The Pylon King - Lead RP - 15/Mar/12 with bpmclimb

Some nice technical moves on the diminutive "headwall"
bpmclimb - Lead β - 15/Mar/12 with Mark

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
pheotleyr

Voting
Total votes cast 6
hard E20 of 2
E20 of 2
easy E20 of 2
hard E10 of 2
E10 of 2
easy E12 of 2
hard HVS0 of 2
HVS0 of 2
easy HVS0 of 2
hard 5c0 of 2
5c0 of 2
easy 5c0 of 2
hard 5b0 of 2
5b2 of 2
easy 5b0 of 2
hard 5a0 of 2
5a0 of 2
easy 5a0 of 2
3 Stars0 of 2
2 Stars0 of 2
1 Star0 of 2
0 Stars2 of 2
Bag of .....0 of 2
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