10m. The face to the right of the chimney (Galadriel's Gash) gives some good climbing protected by small wires and with only a little suspect rock near the start. Bridge/layback up the short corner on the right, then swing left to gain a foot ledge. Move up the small slab to gain holds high on the right. Rock up leftwards onto an obvious foothold on the steeper headwall, stretching left to gain a hidden finger slot. Finish straight up to block/thread belays. Alternatively climb the groove and crack on the right to finish (easier, probably HVS 5a but still good). Descend by scrambling right and dropping down an easy gully.

M.S.Davies/B Mullan (both led) 15/Mar/2012

Mayaculpa 14/Nov/13 2nd

Couldnt see anything obvious on the headwall, so moved right and up.

with Peter
pheotleyr 14/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Didn't see how to do the E1 headwall (couple of bomber wires below and on it, but no holds), so went out slightly right to do what is probably the HVS version. Quite nice I thought. --- Reading the description now, I started from the left instead of from the right at the bottom of the climb. And the description given for the headwall would have been useful to have. Next time...

with Mike
Poco Loco 29/May/12 Lead O/S

I rather enjoyed it for the fun moves on the head wall.

BALD EAGLE 29/May/12 2nd
with James Pomeroy
Urgles 15/Mar/12 Lead RP


bpmclimb 15/Mar/12 Lead β

Some nice technical moves on the diminutive "headwall"

with Mark
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