Rockfax Description
1) From the starting col by the east peak, scramble easily along the crest and then down left past a tricky and exposed drop down over a hole in the ridge to a steeper and very exposed section.
2) Down-climb (or abseil) from a bolted abseil point to the continuation of the ridge. A further rocky section of ridge gains another abseil point.
3) A 20m abseil from here lands on some shelving, vegetated ledges near a large bay.
4) Scramble up a steep diagonal-weakness towards the crest of the ridge from where a long section of scrambling ends in a descent to a col with a distinct trio of vertical fins on its opposite side.
5) Walk up the slope next to the ridge-side fin and locate a line of closely spaced bolts on the smooth wall that lead up to its knife-edge top.
6) Climb the wall (4+) (or aid easily) to the knife-edge, then hand traverse this left (bolts) to a stance at a bolt.
7) Steep and slightly loose rock above (2+) gains another long section of ridge that once again ends in a steep descent to a broad col.
8) Ahead lies a long climb, past a number of false summits, to the true summit of the Bernia. Much of this final section is taken via the right flank of the ridge.
9) From the summit, descend the easy-angled ridge, past a short section with a hand-chain in place, to where the ridge starts to level out slightly and bends down to the right.
10) Keeping a close watch for the red dots, scramble left over the ridge and drop down and back left on rock and scree to a short scree-shoot.
11) Descend the scree-shoot and follow a path down to an old ruined fort. Continue along the path from the fort to a low wide col and take a good path that traverses the right side of a steep valley, around a spur to a track that leads easily back to the restaurant and parking. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
From the col to the west of the east summit, traverse the ridge from east to west. Fading red spots lead the way. The first section is exposed but bolted where it matters, ending with the only compulsory abseil. Other abseils can be easily avoided by scrambling down or around. Crux is a heavily bolted 4+. Probably best to take rock shoes just for this bit unless this is well within your grade. The second half of the ridge is mainly walking with a little bit of easy scrambling.

climbingxcat 19/Nov Lead
with Si and Di, Brian
tiga271 06/Nov AltLd

Led pitch

with Dave
Hidden 05/Nov 2nd
tobyk 28/Oct Lead O/S
with Emma Akam
iand394 23/Oct -

Long day but well worth the effort. Spectacular views from almost every point on the ridge and a great combination of various mountaineering techniques.

with Lornypoo, Lorna Vance, Vicky Jennings, Graham Jones
vix 23/Oct AltLd O/S
powelli 22/Oct Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Oct 2nd
Paul Hy 12/Oct -
theplacelives 12/Oct -
with Paul Hy
Garnham 12/Oct -
Hidden 03/May Solo
dicky79 22/Apr -
with Pete
CreepingExcellence. 12/Apr Solo O/S
Stanners 11/Apr Solo O/S
with the Orange house legends, Andy G
Tom.Priestley 27/Mar Solo O/S

Kept to the ridgeline as much as possible. Climbed along the crest at about british 4c instead of the polished bolt ladder.

Hidden 20/Mar AltLd
iancristie 20/Mar Solo

last day of holiday in spain. expected rain but woke at 630am to good day so we went for it. got back in the dark. fabulous day.easy scrambling but very enjoyable.

with aine o reilly, marie mc carty, liam mc carty
Hidden 18/Mar AltLd dnf
Hidden 06/Mar Lead
Jamiet297 06/Mar AltLd
with Andy Aiano, Steve Woollard, Steve Price
steveprice.exmouth ?/Mar AltLd
Lawrie Brand 27/Jan Solo O/S
with Sarah Laing
Hidden 27/Jan -
will_benfold 14/Jan Lead O/S

Pleasant day out! Didn't require trad gear or rock shoes - did the 4+ bit in approach shoes.

Tim Rodgers 29/Dec/14 Lead
with Ross Heron
Chris Manasseh 25/Nov/14 -

Led the 4+ climbing pitch. With John Armstrong, Alice Mason, Andy Conneely and Ste Spencer

jvarmstrong 25/Nov/14 -

andy, steve & alice

with Chris
BarrySW19 08/Nov/14 AltLd dnf

Slow going in wet conditions. Decided to bail off via just before the fins. Would like to come back in better weather and do the whole thing. Guidebook suggests 5-10 hours but most will take 10 I think.

BeckyS 08/Nov/14 -

Trad gear not necessary. 4+ pitch a bit tricky in the rain but still a lovely long mountain day out.

zadurrani 08/Nov/14 Sent O/S

A big mountain day lasting 9.5hours in low visibility, lead the technical climb in rain. Carried trad gear for no use. a 50m rope & 10 quick draws would have been sufficient.

ChrisB.19 07/Nov/14 -
alibyrnie 07/Nov/14 -
with Zaheer Durrani
Hidden 03/Nov/14 Solo
Celia Watson 03/Nov/14 Solo
Thoms6974 26/Oct/14 2nd O/S

Dave led the two roped pitches. 5 hours car to car. Got stuck for about an hour and a half behind two guided groups of 5 spaniards each with a full 65 litre rucksack, doing all kinds of fish impressions on the f4+ section...

with Dave S, Matt
radioshed 26/Oct/14 2nd O/S
David Stevens 26/Oct/14 Lead
tiga271 18/Oct/14 -
with Dave
cdpuk 06/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

7.5h car to car. One of the best days out ever. Rockfax has you taking more gear than necessary. Trad gear not required. We carried double 60m ropes but only used one. We had a moment of stunning efficiency during the 4+ section, rarely seen in SAKMC, with all 7 of us chained on to the rope to get up the pitch. Clear skies except for when we reached the summit :(

with John, Amanda Redvers, Jamie Skinner, Nick Tammik, John Hammond, Andrew Evans
andyevans 06/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

7.5 hours with 7 of us. Great views and route, unfortunately the peak was in cloud when we arrived, otherwise brilliant romp.

with cdpuk
Hidden 06/Oct/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Oct/14 -
Hidden 06/Oct/14 -
davidanthony ?/May/14 Lead O/S

8.5 hours with sub-club

davidanthony ?/May/14 -
Hidden 24/Apr/14 -
PilarMartinez 24/Apr/14 Solo O/S

Good long walk, nothing hard or technical apart from one pictch grade 4 fully bolted and very polish at the start of it. A couple of abseils but one rope of 50 is enough. Very enjoyable

with StweRat Walker
spidermonkey09 23/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Neil Howett, Jack Knight, Amy Rose Mason, Tom Bullock
Hidden 23/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Jack93 23/Apr/14 -

Had a bit of a drama due to some snappy holds on some down climbing....

with Amy Mason, Neil Howett, Tom Bullock, Jim Hulbert
Hidden 05/Apr/14 AltLd
lottiec 05/Apr/14 -

Absolutely fantastic day out, 7.5 hours with 4 of us and 1 rope.

with Andrew Porter, Marion, Mikey P
Hidden 05/Apr/14 -
Matt_C9716 01/Apr/14 -
Hidden 01/Apr/14 Lead
99bolivar 21/Mar/14 -
Hidden 20/Mar/14 -
jwpil 25/Feb/14 -
with Ben
pdamann 19/Feb/14 -

Great day out, with lovely weather.

with Ed Russell
Hidden 19/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
mountaindavet 25/Jan/14 Solo

3 hours 36 minutes from car to car including the far summit where you start. It will go in under 3 hours and i am interested in what Spanish local has the fastest time?

GPN 31/Dec/13 -

Great day out (new years eve). Just under 5hrs car to car.

with Annette
net 31/Dec/13 -

Marvellous finish to 2013. In no danger of being being benighted!

with George
Jonny M 30/Dec/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Dec/13 2nd O/S
mrteale 22/Dec/13 -

Great day out, ignore the UKC description... you definitely don't need to be climbing anywhere near 6b to enjoy this. Short rope and some quickdraws needed for the 4+ section though. great views.

alooker 22/Dec/13 -

Great day out to give the arms a rest. 6b comment in the description is bizarre, no way. Abseils are mostly avoidable, longest would be fine on a 50. 4+ crux has more bolts than Frankenstein

with Ed
Hidden 04/Dec/13 Lead
islandlynx ?/Dec/13 -

went from east to west. the first bit is by far the best so savour it. once you have done the 4+ pitch its pretty much walking and easy scrambling from then on. 7.5 hours car to car

with Amy
Hidden 15/Nov/13 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Nov/13 Lead
Hidden 30/Oct/13 -
Hidden 25/Oct/13 -
blue-icefox 25/Oct/13 2nd dnf

Were a group of 6. I bailed at the fins with 2 others as not being fast enough and suffering from the heat.

with Nicky, Graham
2010_graham 25/Oct/13 Lead O/S
jacobfinn 24/Oct/13 -

Included the east peak. Top day out. One 20m abseil and short 4+ climb. Lots and lots of scrambling!

Hidden 18/Oct/13 -
Louvet 18/Oct/13 -
with Tarquin
ChrisB.19 14/Oct/13 TR

Joined the ridge just before the fins and completed second part of ridge including technical pitch.

chancer 09/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Truly stunning day out.

with Bob Stones
hotfeet 09/Oct/13 Lead
bobstones 09/Oct/13 Solo
Ian MK 09/Oct/13 2nd
with Alan
Hidden 09/Oct/13 2nd O/S
GOS 20/May/13 Lead O/S

ca 8.5 hours for circuit; managed to lead fins clean (in walking boots)

with John Higgs, Majella Diskin
DrJon 10/May/13 -

Great, long day out on a great, long ridge.

with Henry, John
Christian_S85 08/May/13 2nd rpt

With Mal Thomas and the Crouching Tigers

Malpractise 08/May/13 Lead
Hidden 06/Apr/13 2nd dnf
amyrosemason 06/Apr/13 2nd dnf

Started the day out on Bernia ridge early but did not proceed as quickly as anticipated. Bailed off just before the fins in view of deteriorating weather and limited daylight.

alcrosby 06/Apr/13 2nd dnf

Bailed at the fins

with Amy Mason, Neil Howett, Laura Millard, Nick Owens, Becky Crosby
Hidden 06/Apr/13 AltLd dnf
Theeni 02/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant route, plenty of walking. 8 hours car to car. Led the crux bolted pitch (10 bolts for about 10m of climbing) and soloed everything else.

with Jo
Alex 74 27/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Dave m
Dave Mountford 27/Mar/13 Lead
with alex thackaway
Binder 08/Jan/13 Lead

Brilliant, even if we did start at the end and do half of it in the wrong direction! The better half (1st half) is not possible in the wrong direction so we walked round and through the hole in the ridge!

with Dave J
alpinebutterfly 05/Jan/13 -
with S Guest, K Ayres, M Eddy
BelleVedere 04/Jan/13 Lead

The ridge was heavenly - the way down holey as we took the "Via Gorso"

Peter Metcalfe 04/Jan/13 -
A Mountain Journey 04/Jan/13 2nd
KateA 04/Jan/13 Lead O/S
theo.mooney ??/2013 -
Hidden 14/Dec/12 -
Hidden 23/Oct/12 Lead O/S
georgenvk 15/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/12 -
Shaw Brown 29/Mar/12 -

Included east peak, a great day out. Be prepared for tired feet if you include the west peak too.

Hidden 14/Mar/12 Lead
Luke Dawson 22/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
with Poppy Henson, Mike Adams, Ed Mabon, James Mabon, Charles Dawson, Peter Dawson
A Mountain Journey ??/2012 -
joscott ?/Sep/11 2nd
with Sun and Rock
Mike-W-99 11/Nov/10 Solo

A superb day out. Pitched the bolted section.

with Fiona
Hidden 29/Oct/10 Lead
Shelley_Watson 29/Oct/10 2nd
Celia Watson 29/Oct/10 2nd
crowberry gully 11/Nov/05 Solo

What a great ridge, it goes on and on and on, with firm sections with grippy rock, loose sections, an exciting abseil and well protected crux. Some rock climbing ability needed even if it is graded 3S

with Ross McGibbon
Hidden ??/2004 -
lithos ?/Mar/03 -

Jules, 10 days after the first go !

lithos ?/Feb/03 -

brilliant fun s- so good did it again the next week !

with carmen, Pete Evans, Simon C
abbeywall ?/Oct/99 -
with K
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Gary Coggon, jordangolding, nickstephens, HJSmith, Will AKA Dave, Tony Ryland
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 23
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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