Bernia Ridge*** 4c
[Bernia ridge traverse, 3 kb]1126m.

Rockfax Description
1) From the starting col by the east peak, scramble easily along the crest and then down left past a tricky and exposed drop down over a hole in the ridge to a steeper and very exposed section.
2) Down-climb (or abseil) from a bolted abseil point to the continuation of the ridge. A further rocky section of ridge gains another abseil point.
3) A 20m abseil from here lands on some shelving, vegetated ledges near a large bay.
4) Scramble up a steep diagonal-weakness towards the crest of the ridge from where a long section of scrambling ends in a descent to a col with a distinct trio of vertical fins on its opposite side.
5) Walk up the slope next to the ridge-side fin and locate a line of closely spaced bolts on the smooth wall that lead up to its knife-edge top.
6) Climb the wall (4+) (or aid easily) to the knife-edge, then hand traverse this left (bolts) to a stance at a bolt.
7) Steep and slightly loose rock above (2+) gains another long section of ridge that once again ends in a steep descent to a broad col.
8) Ahead lies a long climb, past a number of false summits, to the true summit of the Bernia. Much of this final section is taken via the right flank of the ridge.
9) From the summit, descend the easy-angled ridge, past a short section with a hand-chain in place, to where the ridge starts to level out slightly and bends down to the right.
10) Keeping a close watch for the red dots, scramble left over the ridge and drop down and back left on rock and scree to a short scree-shoot.
11) Descend the scree-shoot and follow a path down to an old ruined fort. Continue along the path from the fort to a low wide col and take a good path that traverses the right side of a steep valley, around a spur to a track that leads easily back to the restaurant and parking. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
From the col to the west of the east summit, traverse the ridge from east to west. Fading red spots lead the way. The first section is exposed but bolted where it matters, ending with the only compulsory abseil. Other abseils can be easily avoided by scrambling down or around. Crux is a heavily bolted 4+. Probably best to take rock shoes just for this bit unless this is well within your grade. The second half of the ridge is mainly walking with a little bit of easy scrambling.

Photo: Bernia ridge traverse © A Mountain Journey
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This climb is in 108 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Hidden - Solo - 03/May/15

dicky79 - 22/Apr/15 with Pete

CreepingExcellence. - Solo O/S - 12/Apr/15 with Rob Stanfield

Stanners - Solo O/S - 11/Apr/15 with the Orange house legends, Andy G

Kept to the ridgeline as much as possible. Climbed along the crest at about british 4c instead of the polished bolt ladder.
Tom.Priestley - Solo O/S - 27/Mar/15

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Mar/15

last day of holiday in spain. expected rain but woke at 630am to good day so we went for it. got back in the dark. fabulous day.easy scrambling but very enjoyable.
iancristie - Solo - 20/Mar/15 with aine o reilly, marie mc carty, liam mc carty

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 18/Mar/15

Hidden - Lead - 06/Mar/15

Jamiet297 - AltLd - 06/Mar/15 with Andy Aiano, Steve Woollard, Steve Price

steveprice.exmouth - AltLd - Mar/15 with Jamiet297

Lawrie Brand - Solo O/S - 27/Jan/15 with Sarah Laing

Hidden - 27/Jan/15

Pleasant day out! Didn't require trad gear or rock shoes - did the 4+ bit in approach shoes.
will_benfold - Lead O/S - 14/Jan/15 with Sally Fitton

Tim Rodgers - Lead - 29/Dec/14 with Ross Heron

Led the 4+ climbing pitch. With John Armstrong, Alice Mason, Andy Conneely and Ste Spencer
Chris Manasseh - 25/Nov/14

andy, steve & alice
jvarmstrong - 25/Nov/14 with Chris

Slow going in wet conditions. Decided to bail off via just before the fins. Would like to come back in better weather and do the whole thing. Guidebook suggests 5-10 hours but most will take 10 I think.
BarrySW19 - AltLd dnf - 08/Nov/14

Trad gear not necessary. 4+ pitch a bit tricky in the rain but still a lovely long mountain day out.
BeckyS - 08/Nov/14

A big mountain day lasting 9.5hours in low visibility, lead the technical climb in rain. Carried trad gear for no use. a 50m rope & 10 quick draws would have been sufficient.
zadurrani - Sent O/S - 08/Nov/14

ChrisB.19 - 07/Nov/14 with Allan FW

alibyrnie - 07/Nov/14 with Zaheer Durrani

Hidden - Solo - 03/Nov/14

Celia Watson - Solo - 03/Nov/14 with stuart watson

Dave led the two roped pitches. 5 hours car to car. Got stuck for about an hour and a half behind two guided groups of 5 spaniards each with a full 65 litre rucksack, doing all kinds of fish impressions on the f4+ section...
Thoms6974 - 2nd O/S - 26/Oct/14 with Dave S, Matt

radioshed - 2nd O/S - 26/Oct/14 with dave s, andy t

David Stevens - Lead - 26/Oct/14 with Matt Craig, Andy Thompson

tiga271 - 18/Oct/14 with Dave

7.5h car to car. One of the best days out ever. Rockfax has you taking more gear than necessary. Trad gear not required. We carried double 60m ropes but only used one. We had a moment of stunning efficiency during the 4+ section, rarely seen in SAKMC, with all 7 of us chained on to the rope to get up the pitch. Clear skies except for when we reached the summit :(
cdpuk - AltLd O/S - 06/Oct/14 with John, Amanda Redvers, Jamie Skinner, Nick Tammik, John Hammond, Andrew Evans

7.5 hours with 7 of us. Great views and route, unfortunately the peak was in cloud when we arrived, otherwise brilliant romp.
andyevans - AltLd O/S - 06/Oct/14 with cdpuk

Hidden - Solo O/S - 06/Oct/14

Hidden - 06/Oct/14

Hidden - 06/Oct/14

8.5 hours with sub-club
davidanthony - Lead O/S - May/14

davidanthony - May/14

Hidden - 24/Apr/14

Good long walk, nothing hard or technical apart from one pictch grade 4 fully bolted and very polish at the start of it. A couple of abseils but one rope of 50 is enough. Very enjoyable
PilarMartinez - Solo O/S - 24/Apr/14 with StweRat Walker

spidermonkey09 - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/14 with Neil Howett, Jack Knight, Amy Rose Mason, Tom Bullock

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/14

Had a bit of a drama due to some snappy holds on some down climbing....
Jack93 - 23/Apr/14 with Amy Mason, Neil Howett, Tom Bullock, Jim Hulbert

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Apr/14

Absolutely fantastic day out, 7.5 hours with 4 of us and 1 rope.
lottiec - 05/Apr/14 with Andrew Porter, Marion, Mikey P

Hidden - 05/Apr/14

Matt_C9716 - 01/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead - 01/Apr/14

99bolivar - 21/Mar/14

Hidden - 20/Mar/14

jwpil - 25/Feb/14 with Ben

Great day out, with lovely weather.
pdamann - 19/Feb/14 with Ed Russell

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/14

3 hours 36 minutes from car to car including the far summit where you start. It will go in under 3 hours and i am interested in what Spanish local has the fastest time?
mountaindavet - Solo - 25/Jan/14

Great day out (new years eve). Just under 5hrs car to car.
GPN - 31/Dec/13 with Annette

Marvellous finish to 2013. In no danger of being being benighted!
net - 31/Dec/13 with George

Jonny M - Lead O/S - 30/Dec/13 with Karen Chalmers

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Dec/13

Great day out, ignore the UKC description... you definitely don't need to be climbing anywhere near 6b to enjoy this. Short rope and some quickdraws needed for the 4+ section though. great views.
mrteale - 22/Dec/13

Great day out to give the arms a rest. 6b comment in the description is bizarre, no way. Abseils are mostly avoidable, longest would be fine on a 50. 4+ crux has more bolts than Frankenstein
alooker - 22/Dec/13 with Ed

Hidden - Lead - 04/Dec/13

went from east to west. the first bit is by far the best so savour it. once you have done the 4+ pitch its pretty much walking and easy scrambling from then on. 7.5 hours car to car
islandlynx - Dec/13 with Amy

Hidden - Solo O/S - 15/Nov/13

Hidden - Lead - Nov/13

Hidden - 30/Oct/13

Hidden - 25/Oct/13

Were a group of 6. I bailed at the fins with 2 others as not being fast enough and suffering from the heat.
blue-icefox - 2nd dnf - 25/Oct/13 with Nicky, Graham

2010_graham - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/13

Included the east peak. Top day out. One 20m abseil and short 4+ climb. Lots and lots of scrambling!
jacobfinn - 24/Oct/13

Hidden - 18/Oct/13

Louvet - 18/Oct/13 with Tarquin

Joined the ridge just before the fins and completed second part of ridge including technical pitch.
ChrisB.19 - TR - 14/Oct/13 with Allan FW

Truly stunning day out.
chancer - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/13 with Bob Stones

hotfeet - Lead - 09/Oct/13 with Ian Routledge, Mac

bobstones - Solo - 09/Oct/13 with Alex Pond

Ian MK - 2nd - 09/Oct/13 with Alan

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Oct/13

ca 8.5 hours for circuit; managed to lead fins clean (in walking boots)
GOS - Lead O/S - 20/May/13 with John Higgs, Majella Diskin

Great, long day out on a great, long ridge.
DrJon - 10/May/13 with Henry, John

With Mal Thomas and the Crouching Tigers
Christian_S85 - 2nd rpt - 08/May/13

Malpractise - Lead - 08/May/13 with Christian Storey

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 06/Apr/13

Started the day out on Bernia ridge early but did not proceed as quickly as anticipated. Bailed off just before the fins in view of deteriorating weather and limited daylight.
amyrosemason - 2nd dnf - 06/Apr/13

Bailed at the fins
alcrosby - 2nd dnf - 06/Apr/13 with Amy Mason, Neil Howett, Laura Millard, Nick Owens, Becky Crosby

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 06/Apr/13

Brilliant route, plenty of walking. 8 hours car to car. Led the crux bolted pitch (10 bolts for about 10m of climbing) and soloed everything else.
Theeni - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/13 with Jo

Alex 74 - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/13 with Dave m

Dave Mountford - Lead - 27/Mar/13 with alex thackaway

Brilliant, even if we did start at the end and do half of it in the wrong direction! The better half (1st half) is not possible in the wrong direction so we walked round and through the hole in the ridge!
Binder - Lead - 08/Jan/13 with Dave J

alpinebutterfly - 05/Jan/13 with S Guest, K Ayres, M Eddy

The ridge was heavenly - the way down holey as we took the "Via Gorso"
BelleVedere - Lead - 04/Jan/13 with Claire Roff, Kate Ayres, Mark Eddy

Peter Metcalfe - 04/Jan/13 with Cath Sullivan

theo.mooney - 2013

Hidden - 14/Dec/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/12

georgenvk - Lead O/S - 15/May/12

Hidden - 29/Mar/12

Included east peak, a great day out. Be prepared for tired feet if you include the west peak too.
Shaw Brown - 29/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead - 14/Mar/12

Luke Dawson - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/12 with Poppy Henson, Mike Adams, Ed Mabon, James Mabon, Charles Dawson, Peter Dawson

A Mountain Journey - 2012

joscott - 2nd - Sep/11 with Sun and Rock

A superb day out. Pitched the bolted section.
Mike-W-99 - Solo - 11/Nov/10 with Fiona

Hidden - Lead - 29/Oct/10

Shelley_Watson - 2nd - 29/Oct/10 with Stuart Watson

Celia Watson - 2nd - 29/Oct/10 with stuart watson

What a great ridge, it goes on and on and on, with firm sections with grippy rock, loose sections, an exciting abseil and well protected crux. Some rock climbing ability needed even if it is graded 3S
crowberry gully - Solo - 11/Nov/05 with Ross McGibbon

Hidden - 2004

Jules, 10 days after the first go !
lithos - Mar/03

brilliant fun s- so good did it again the next week !
lithos - Feb/03 with carmen, Pete Evans, Simon C

abbeywall - Oct/99 with K

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Tooticki, Gary Coggon, jordangolding, nickstephens, HJSmith, Will AKA Dave, Tony Ryland

Total votes cast 39
hard 3S13 of 16
3S2 of 16
easy 3S1 of 16
3 Stars17 of 23
2 Stars6 of 23
1 Star0 of 23
0 Stars0 of 23
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat