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Sheaf*** HVS 4c

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[Sheaf, finish, 3 kb]A complex line that weaves up the West Buttress at a relatively friendly grade. Start at the base of the Eastern Terrace, just above a wet and grassy crack. 1) 4c, 20m. Climb a crack to a small stance under the rib of White Slab. This can also be reached from the base of Longland's. 2) 4c, 12m. Move right, then pull round onto the slab. Move right again, then descend with difficulty (Linnell's Leap). 3) 30m. Scramble rightwards then up grassy ledges to a belay in a corner. 4) 4b, 20m. Climb the slab to the arete and pull round to belay on WBE. 5) 4c, 20m. Move right then up the groove to an overhang. Swing round this to belay in the corner above. 6) 4c, 20m. Stride across the corner, then pull round onto a narrow slab. Climb this more easily... 7) 25m. ...past one stance to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, MIA logbook must haves!, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

Photo: Sheaf, finish © caradoc
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 84 logbooks, and on 31 wishlists.

Lead pitch 2, 4, 6, wonderful climbing intersprersed with lots of grassy and loose rock. But there is wonderful moves around the aretes.
Kate Edhouse - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Neils PYB

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 12/Jul/14

Led all pitches. Was meant to be a quick warm up before White Slab but turned into an epic route finding nightmare. The good bits involve 3 extremely exposed steps round arÍtes straight off the belays, the best being the start of pitch 6 where you bridge across a chasm with 500 feet of exposure. Unfortunately I didn't feel that this made up for the horrific loose blocks, wet grass and generally untrustworthy rock which perpetuate the majority of the climb.
Dan724 - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Dan Jones

A long a complicated line to follow with 3 exciting committing moves which always revealed the required holds at the crucial moment! Quite tricky route finding which caused a slow accent of 7 hrs! Not gonna break any records with that one, but good day out in any case!
Danjones - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Dan Hale

Bob - 2014

Si - 2014

mike mo - 2014

frost - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/13 with Helen

Couple of "out there" positions and 1 decent slab pitch, but otherwise overrated
Grezza - AltLd - 20/Jul/13 with Paul E

2,L,2,L,2,L,2. Not a *** route. It's too vegetated and not harmonious, but amazing route finding.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Anette

Led pitches 2, half of 3, 5 and 7. Epic route with tricky route finding and 2 wild moves, overhang on pitch 5 and large step on pitch 6. A shame pitch 3 is a bit chossy.
Jonny Nick - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with eleytim

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13

Fred_Richard - Lead - 13/Jul/13 with Pete

Pitches 1 & 2 only to access White Slab avoiding the frightening-looking first pitch. Led P1 - not clear what level to traverse across, or where to belay. The possible stance just under the rib is very awkward, so belayed higher by some good spikes.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/13 with James Oswald

Only p1 and p2 to skip the scary sounding traverse pitch on White Slab.Pretty cool
James Oswald - AltLd O/S - 2013 with Colin Angus

jcw - 2013

Led P2,P4,P6. Some amazing positions interspersed with a few chossy sections, P3 being particularly unpleasant.
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Charles Moreton

Led pitches 1,3, 5 & 7. A classic route perhaps but not *** in my opinion
cem - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Kirill Spiridonov

Led pitch 1,3,5,7 felt a bit run out in places, but climbing never too difficult.
Dave89 - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12 with Paramedic Sam

Lead P1 P3 P5 & P7. Excellent route, would highly recommend.
jayrenegade - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Prav

Fantastic mountain route. Led pitches 2,4,5 and 6.The rock was bone dry and had great friction.There were 3 very exposed 5a moves: the traverse on pitch 2, the overhang on pitch 5 and the 'long stride' on pitch 6.......that makes it solid HVS for me.I would grade route 4b,5a,4b,4c,5a,5a.Climbed with rucksacs.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/12 with Steve Grove

Tony Kartawick - 2012

some scary moves for the grade. my ropework was turd on this, made it less enjoyable than it shouldve been due to the amount of faffing about. in reality this is a very good route, shame i didnt enjoy it as much. first route at cloggy!!
Bill Lawrence - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with andy lawrence

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11

dan ely - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with steve

Me P2, P4 & P6. Good moves through the overlaps. Traversed too high on P4 making a move that was at least 5a. Nearly fell off seconding P3 when a crimp crumbled to bits. Fell off seconding P7 when foot hold fell away.
hellboundblr - AltLd dog - 30/Apr/11 with Steve P

stevepotter - AltLd - 30/Apr/11 with Bryan

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Em66 - AltLd - 04/Jun/10 with Mat, Tom

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/May/10

We were on route the whole way. Go us. Tick!
dicky79 - AltLd O/S - 23/May/10 with James D

Hidden - AltLd - May/10

Hidden - AltLd - May/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Apr/10

zukator - Lead - 2010

thought this was pretty rubbish really, not a patch on great/bow combo.
saintlade - 2010

PaulHarris - AltLd - 08/Aug/09 with Simon, Micheal

Good route some amazingly commiting moves, bit spoilt by the 2 pitches with wet slippy grass
Flibble - AltLd - 07/Aug/09 with Simon

Wild!
lukehodson - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/09 with Loz

nearly died due to route finding rope drag gear ripping out ineptness, otherwise a lovely climb.
Dr Caterpillar - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/09 with Luke

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Apr/09

Led P2, P4, P6. Long run outs and ungraded pitches seemed more like 4a or b.
liz77 - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/08 with HRC

Exposure fest. 3 scary crux pitches and met Steve Venables on the way up who was climbing Longland's
Strange little creature - AltLd O/S - 24/May/08 with Scott Cramp

CC Cloggy guide doesn't have a picture of Pitch 1&2 so we followed Bow-shaped slab pitch 1&2. V12 guide shows it clearly. We ab'd off in the rain. Got the whole route still to do.
dicky79 - Lead dnf - 11/May/08 with Nicola

Hidden - AltLd - 2008

Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 08/Jun/07 with Dad

Guidebook description for first pitch is "Climb the grassy crack and its continuation" This does not bring you to the stance under the arete of white slab. In addition it is very grassy, greasy and unpleasant. Far better to descend from the first stance of Longland's - which you will almost certainly have to do anyway if you take the "guidebook" start. The route is currently very grassy and not receiving many ascents (likewise Narrow and the Old Girdle which take the same start).
zukator - 2nd O/S - 07/Jun/07 with Owain

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/07

rob1 - AltLd - 22/Jul/06 with Jonny Martin

ferdia - 15/Jun/06 with Andrew Wielochowski

Easy HVS (because lots of climbers around telling us where all the holds were), but nice exposure on pitch 6
My Gravity - Lead β - 10/Jun/06 with Simon S

Si dH - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/06 with Kane Chandler

mike lawrence? - 2006

Hard to locate start (had several false starts) although we had naff topos. Had an off day, so after leading a few early pitches, handed the lead to Jim. Topped out about 10.30pm after 5hs on route. Made it down to tents at foot of crag in almost zero light.
Owen W-G - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/05 with Jim

Outstanding, interesting route finding.
caradoc - AltLd - 12/Jul/05 with john b

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

WB - 1998

started with first pitch
michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/97 with richard parry

Trobbo - AltLd - 07/Jul/96 with john blower

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Sep/90

I led the easy pitches
Babika - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/90 with Mark Jones

babymoac - Lead - 05/May/90 with MTW & Howard

Ian Jones - AltLd O/S - 1983 with Dave Greenald, Billy Jones, Chris Gore, Tom Jones, Paul Stott, 'Flog'

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 24/Jul/82

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 25/Apr/82 with Rodger Edenborough

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Sean Kelly - Lead - Jul/78 with Gavin Anderson

granitbahn - AltLd - 1978

steve L - 1977

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 04/Jun/76 with Mark Pearce

pneame - AltLd - 1975

RichardMc - AltLd - 03/Aug/74 with Ian Carter

tapley - Lead - 21/Jul/74 with Alex George

sharpie - Lead O/S - Jun/74 with Phill Thomas

RichardMc - AltLd - 26/Aug/73 with Alastair Gordon

Hidden - AltLd - 1973

Hidden - AltLd - 1973

David Smith - AltLd - 11/Sep/71 with Steve Foster, Dave Ellis

mikej - AltLd - 06/Jun/70 with Bill Church

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ms26g10, hutchay, sting, Hidden, Hidden, Edvenables, Hidden, Hidden, Will Sheaff, thomaspomfrett, pryan300, j4kub, Sebastien Gastaud, gianpaolo, Hidden, andy dunn, Alex.M-M., Hidden, Hidden, tompilgrem, Alan100, LozM, stemill, twright180, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Warren Earle, Tom Grindey1, Hidden, dicky79

Voting
Total votes cast 47
hard E10 of 16
E10 of 16
easy E10 of 16
hard HVS2 of 16
HVS6 of 16
easy HVS7 of 16
hard VS1 of 16
VS0 of 16
easy VS0 of 16
hard 5a0 of 15
5a0 of 15
easy 5a5 of 15
hard 4c6 of 15
4c4 of 15
easy 4c0 of 15
hard 4b0 of 15
4b0 of 15
easy 4b0 of 15
3 Stars7 of 16
2 Stars4 of 16
1 Star2 of 16
0 Stars1 of 16
Bag of .....2 of 16
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Style of ascent

Lead15 of 84 (17.9%)
Followed3 of 84 (3.6%)
Alt Leads51 of 84 (60.7%)
Unknown15 of 84 (17.9%)

'Climbed'46 of 84 (54.8%)
clean O/S34 of 84 (40.5%)
clean β1 of 84 (1.2%)
dogged1 of 84 (1.2%)
dnf2 of 84 (2.4%)