A complex line that weaves up the West Buttress at a relatively friendly grade. Start at the base of the Eastern Terrace, just above a wet and grassy crack.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb a crack to a small stance under the rib of White Slab. This can also be reached from the base of Longland's.
2) 4c, 12m. Move right, then pull round onto the slab. Move right again, then descend with difficulty (Linnell's Leap). To a belay at the bottom right of the slab.
3) 30m. Move down slightly and scramble rightwards then up grassy ledges and climb the short slab to a belay in a corner.
4) 4b, 20m. Climb the slab to the arete and pull round to a big shared belay on White Slab.
5) 4c, 20m. Move right then up the groove to an overhang. Swing round this to another groove and follow it to a small ledge and belay in the corner above.
6) 4c, 20m. Stride right across the corner, then pull round onto a narrow slab. Climb this more easily to a stance.
7) 30m. More broken scrambling up grassy ledges leads past one more possible stance to the top. © Rockfax
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Kate Edhouse||26/Jul/14||AltLd O/S||
Lead pitch 2, 4, 6, wonderful climbing intersprersed with lots of grassy and loose rock. But there is wonderful moves around the aretes.
Led all pitches. Was meant to be a quick warm up before White Slab but turned into an epic route finding nightmare. The good bits involve 3 extremely exposed steps round arÍtes straight off the belays, the best being the start of pitch 6 where you bridge across a chasm with 500 feet of exposure. Unfortunately I didn't feel that this made up for the horrific loose blocks, wet grass and generally untrustworthy rock which perpetuate the majority of the climb.
A long a complicated line to follow with 3 exciting committing moves which always revealed the required holds at the crucial moment! Quite tricky route finding which caused a slow accent of 7 hrs! Not gonna break any records with that one, but good day out in any case!
Couple of "out there" positions and 1 decent slab pitch, but otherwise overrated
2,L,2,L,2,L,2. Not a *** route. It's too vegetated and not harmonious, but amazing route finding.
|Jonny Nick||13/Jul/13||AltLd O/S||
Led pitches 2, half of 3, 5 and 7. Epic route with tricky route finding and 2 wild moves, overhang on pitch 5 and large step on pitch 6. A shame pitch 3 is a bit chossy.
|victim of mathematics||07/Jul/13||AltLd O/S||
Pitches 1 & 2 only to access White Slab avoiding the frightening-looking first pitch. Led P1 - not clear what level to traverse across, or where to belay. The possible stance just under the rib is very awkward, so belayed higher by some good spikes.
|James Oswald||??/2013||AltLd O/S||
Only p1 and p2 to skip the scary sounding traverse pitch on White Slab.Pretty cool
Led P2,P4,P6. Some amazing positions interspersed with a few chossy sections, P3 being particularly unpleasant.
Led pitches 1,3, 5 & 7. A classic route perhaps but not *** in my opinion
Led pitch 1,3,5,7 felt a bit run out in places, but climbing never too difficult.
Lead P1 P3 P5 & P7. Excellent route, would highly recommend.
|Andrew Sloan||27/Mar/12||AltLd O/S||
Fantastic mountain route. Led pitches 2,4,5 and 6.The rock was bone dry and had great friction.There were 3 very exposed 5a moves: the traverse on pitch 2, the overhang on pitch 5 and the 'long stride' on pitch 6.......that makes it solid HVS for me.I would grade route 4b,5a,4b,4c,5a,5a.Climbed with rucksacs.
|Bill Lawrence||01/Oct/11||AltLd O/S||
some scary moves for the grade. my ropework was turd on this, made it less enjoyable than it shouldve been due to the amount of faffing about. in reality this is a very good route, shame i didnt enjoy it as much. first route at cloggy!!
|dan ely||02/Jul/11||AltLd O/S||
Me P2, P4 & P6. Good moves through the overlaps. Traversed too high on P4 making a move that was at least 5a. Nearly fell off seconding P3 when a crimp crumbled to bits. Fell off seconding P7 when foot hold fell away.
We were on route the whole way. Go us. Tick!
thought this was pretty rubbish really, not a patch on great/bow combo.
Good route some amazingly commiting moves, bit spoilt by the 2 pitches with wet slippy grass
|Dr Caterpillar||25/Jun/09||AltLd O/S||
nearly died due to route finding rope drag gear ripping out ineptness, otherwise a lovely climb.
Led P2, P4, P6. Long run outs and ungraded pitches seemed more like 4a or b.
|Strange little creature||24/May/08||AltLd O/S||
Exposure fest. 3 scary crux pitches and met Steve Venables on the way up who was climbing Longland's
CC Cloggy guide doesn't have a picture of Pitch 1&2 so we followed Bow-shaped slab pitch 1&2. V12 guide shows it clearly. We ab'd off in the rain. Got the whole route still to do.
Guidebook description for first pitch is "Climb the grassy crack and its continuation" This does not bring you to the stance under the arete of white slab. In addition it is very grassy, greasy and unpleasant. Far better to descend from the first stance of Longland's - which you will almost certainly have to do anyway if you take the "guidebook" start. The route is currently very grassy and not receiving many ascents (likewise Narrow and the Old Girdle which take the same start).
|My Gravity||10/Jun/06||Lead β||
Easy HVS (because lots of climbers around telling us where all the holds were), but nice exposure on pitch 6
|Si dH||03/Jun/06||AltLd O/S||
|Owen W-G||21/Jul/05||2nd O/S||
Hard to locate start (had several false starts) although we had naff topos. Had an off day, so after leading a few early pitches, handed the lead to Jim. Topped out about 10.30pm after 5hs on route. Made it down to tents at foot of crag in almost zero light.
Outstanding, interesting route finding.
|michael burrows||25/Sep/97||AltLd O/S||
started with first pitch
I led the easy pitches
MTW & Howard
|Ian Jones||??/1983||AltLd O/S||
Dave Greenald, Billy Jones, Chris Gore, Tom Jones, Paul Stott, 'Flog'
Steve Foster, Dave Ellis