Rockfax Description
A complex line that weaves up the West Buttress at a relatively friendly grade. Start at the base of the Eastern Terrace, just above a wet and grassy crack.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb a crack to a small stance under the rib of White Slab. This can also be reached from the base of Longland's.
2) 4c, 12m. Move right, then pull round onto the slab. Move right again, then descend with difficulty (Linnell's Leap). To a belay at the bottom right of the slab.
3) 30m. Move down slightly and scramble rightwards then up grassy ledges and climb the short slab to a belay in a corner.
4) 4b, 20m. Climb the slab to the arete and pull round to a big shared belay on White Slab.
5) 4c, 20m. Move right then up the groove to an overhang. Swing round this to another groove and follow it to a small ledge and belay in the corner above.
6) 4c, 20m. Stride right across the corner, then pull round onto a narrow slab. Climb this more easily to a stance.
7) 30m. More broken scrambling up grassy ledges leads past one more possible stance to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, MIA logbook must haves!, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
Kate Edhouse 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2, 4, 6, wonderful climbing intersprersed with lots of grassy and loose rock. But there is wonderful moves around the aretes.

Neils PYB
Hidden 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/14 AltLd dnf
Dan724 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Led all pitches. Was meant to be a quick warm up before White Slab but turned into an epic route finding nightmare. The good bits involve 3 extremely exposed steps round arÍtes straight off the belays, the best being the start of pitch 6 where you bridge across a chasm with 500 feet of exposure. Unfortunately I didn't feel that this made up for the horrific loose blocks, wet grass and generally untrustworthy rock which perpetuate the majority of the climb.

Dan Jones
Danjones 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S

A long a complicated line to follow with 3 exciting committing moves which always revealed the required holds at the crucial moment! Quite tricky route finding which caused a slow accent of 7 hrs! Not gonna break any records with that one, but good day out in any case!

Dan Hale
Bob ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
frost 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Grezza 20/Jul/13 AltLd

Couple of "out there" positions and 1 decent slab pitch, but otherwise overrated

Paul E
charlesmfrench 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

2,L,2,L,2,L,2. Not a *** route. It's too vegetated and not harmonious, but amazing route finding.

Jonny Nick 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2, half of 3, 5 and 7. Epic route with tricky route finding and 2 wild moves, overhang on pitch 5 and large step on pitch 6. A shame pitch 3 is a bit chossy.

Hidden 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Fred_Richard 13/Jul/13 Lead
victim of mathematics 07/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1 & 2 only to access White Slab avoiding the frightening-looking first pitch. Led P1 - not clear what level to traverse across, or where to belay. The possible stance just under the rib is very awkward, so belayed higher by some good spikes.

James Oswald ??/2013 AltLd O/S

Only p1 and p2 to skip the scary sounding traverse pitch on White Slab.Pretty cool

Colin Angus
jcw ??/2013 -
Kirill 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2,P4,P6. Some amazing positions interspersed with a few chossy sections, P3 being particularly unpleasant.

cem 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1,3, 5 & 7. A classic route perhaps but not *** in my opinion

Dave89 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Led pitch 1,3,5,7 felt a bit run out in places, but climbing never too difficult.

jayrenegade 26/May/12 Lead O/S

Lead P1 P3 P5 & P7. Excellent route, would highly recommend.

Andrew Sloan 27/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Fantastic mountain route. Led pitches 2,4,5 and 6.The rock was bone dry and had great friction.There were 3 very exposed 5a moves: the traverse on pitch 2, the overhang on pitch 5 and the 'long stride' on pitch 6.......that makes it solid HVS for me.I would grade route 4b,5a,4b,4c,5a,5a.Climbed with rucksacs.

Steve Grove
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Bill Lawrence 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

some scary moves for the grade. my ropework was turd on this, made it less enjoyable than it shouldve been due to the amount of faffing about. in reality this is a very good route, shame i didnt enjoy it as much. first route at cloggy!!

andy lawrence
Hidden 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
dan ely 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
hellboundblr 30/Apr/11 AltLd dog

Me P2, P4 & P6. Good moves through the overlaps. Traversed too high on P4 making a move that was at least 5a. Nearly fell off seconding P3 when a crimp crumbled to bits. Fell off seconding P7 when foot hold fell away.

stevepotter 30/Apr/11 AltLd
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Em66 04/Jun/10 AltLd
Mat, Tom
Hidden 24/May/10 AltLd O/S
dicky79 23/May/10 AltLd O/S

We were on route the whole way. Go us. Tick!

James D
Hidden ?/May/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
zukator ??/2010 Lead
saintlade ??/2010 -

thought this was pretty rubbish really, not a patch on great/bow combo.

PaulHarris 08/Aug/09 AltLd
Simon, Micheal
Flibble 07/Aug/09 AltLd

Good route some amazingly commiting moves, bit spoilt by the 2 pitches with wet slippy grass

lukehodson 25/Jun/09 AltLd O/S


Dr Caterpillar 25/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

nearly died due to route finding rope drag gear ripping out ineptness, otherwise a lovely climb.

Hidden 26/Apr/09 AltLd
liz77 06/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Led P2, P4, P6. Long run outs and ungraded pitches seemed more like 4a or b.

Strange little creature 24/May/08 AltLd O/S

Exposure fest. 3 scary crux pitches and met Steve Venables on the way up who was climbing Longland's

Scott Cramp
dicky79 11/May/08 Lead dnf

CC Cloggy guide doesn't have a picture of Pitch 1&2 so we followed Bow-shaped slab pitch 1&2. V12 guide shows it clearly. We ab'd off in the rain. Got the whole route still to do.

Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Owain Llewelyn 08/Jun/07 Lead
zukator 07/Jun/07 2nd O/S

Guidebook description for first pitch is "Climb the grassy crack and its continuation" This does not bring you to the stance under the arete of white slab. In addition it is very grassy, greasy and unpleasant. Far better to descend from the first stance of Longland's - which you will almost certainly have to do anyway if you take the "guidebook" start. The route is currently very grassy and not receiving many ascents (likewise Narrow and the Old Girdle which take the same start).

Hidden 05/May/07 AltLd O/S
rob1 22/Jul/06 AltLd
Jonny Martin
ferdia 15/Jun/06 -
Andrew Wielochowski
My Gravity 10/Jun/06 Lead β

Easy HVS (because lots of climbers around telling us where all the holds were), but nice exposure on pitch 6

Simon S
Si dH 03/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Kane Chandler
mike lawrence? ??/2006 -
Owen W-G 21/Jul/05 2nd O/S

Hard to locate start (had several false starts) although we had naff topos. Had an off day, so after leading a few early pitches, handed the lead to Jim. Topped out about 10.30pm after 5hs on route. Made it down to tents at foot of crag in almost zero light.

caradoc 12/Jul/05 AltLd

Outstanding, interesting route finding.

john b
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
WB ??/1998 -
michael burrows 25/Sep/97 AltLd O/S

started with first pitch

richard parry
Trobbo 07/Jul/96 AltLd
john blower
Hidden 16/Sep/90 AltLd
Babika 21/Jun/90 AltLd O/S

I led the easy pitches

Mark Jones
babymoac 05/May/90 Lead
MTW & Howard
Ian Jones ??/1983 AltLd O/S
Dave Greenald, Billy Jones, Chris Gore, Tom Jones, Paul Stott, 'Flog'
Dave Musgrove 24/Jul/82 AltLd
Nigel Bond 25/Apr/82 AltLd
Rodger Edenborough
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Sean Kelly ?/Jul/78 Lead
Gavin Anderson
granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
Mark Kemball 04/Jun/76 AltLd
Mark Pearce
pneame ??/1975 AltLd
RichardMc 03/Aug/74 AltLd
Ian Carter
tapley 21/Jul/74 Lead
Alex George
sharpie ?/Jun/74 Lead O/S
Phill Thomas
RichardMc 26/Aug/73 AltLd
Alastair Gordon
Hidden ??/1973 AltLd
Hidden ??/1973 AltLd
uphillnow 11/Sep/71 AltLd
Steve Foster, Dave Ellis
mikej 06/Jun/70 AltLd
Bill Church
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 16
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set