Ian Lloyd-Jones 22/Mar/2012
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Wanted to get back on this and took the opportunity today. 1st time putting the clips in. crux is definately traversing left at b5 although moving back right is the pyscho crux.
1 rest/fall. Got to the 5th bolt and got knackered trying to go up and looking at the moves right. Finally decided to go left and had nothing left the came off. worked it out but ended up closer to the peg on jugs of mawr than the next bolt. wussed out of the move. Once the clip was in I did the move which was really nice and climbed to the top. Having now read the actual description and comments it seems I went the right way, it just felt a bit odd. Very good route though, unusual for slate.
Disappointing: you have to traverse into the route to the left leaving you feeling miles off-route if you haven't read the description. The bolting makes it look like doing this isn't right either and leaves you looking at an uncomfortable fall / pendulum back right. Needs another bolt to show the way, make it a bit friendlier.
|ian Ll-J||22/Mar/12||Lead RP||