UKC

Rockfax Description
One of the great Welsh Classics, with the other of Cloggy's great lasso/pendulums. Start about 30m right of the base of Eastern Terrace, where a small broken pinnacle leans against an overhang.
1) 5b, 25m. Climb up and off the pinnacle and make a delicate
traverse across the lip of the overhangs to a groove. Move left again into an often-wet groove and follow this to a ledge and flake belay. Quite a serious pitch so place all the limited runners you can find - your second will need them! It is possible to leave a sling on a low spike to back-rope the second.
2) 4b, 20m. Climb the groove and slab to the base of the main upper slab.
3) 5a, 30m. Move up the slab briefly and then make a diagonal traverse with difficulty to the arete (Linnell's Leap in reverse). Climb the arete to a spike, move right and take a thin crack up to a flake. Head left round the rib to a groove and move up to a belay.
4) 5c, 15m. Pull up and right round the arete, from here there are several options. The original is to lasso a small spike over in the groove - you'll need good eyesight and the precision aim of a cowboy plus about 12m of rope. You can then either pendulum across or free climb the thin traverse (this is also possible without the spike lassoed of course). A third option, which requires bravery and an extra E point, is climbing the extremely bold blunt rib direct at E3 5c before moving right to the belay.
5) 5a, 35m. Climb the edge of the slab up to a ledge.
6) 4a, 12m. Climb easily up behind the belay to a crevassed stance on the right.
7) 4c, 30m. P5 of Longland's. Pull up steeply then move right to a chimney. This leads to easier ground and the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Hard Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , MIA logbook must haves! , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2 , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Alex's Wales ticklist , The Road to Shibboleth , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Hard Rock 2020 , Hard Rock & Other Classics , 2021 , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , North Wales To Do List

Feedback

User Date Notes
ed edwards 30 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Exciting if the crux slab is wet (at the lasso the spike bit-which I didn’t, because I’m a rotten shot.) if wet, a higher line across the slab goes at abt 5c/6a but bold.
βeta?
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βeta: Exciting if the crux slab is wet (at the lasso the spike bit-which I didn’t, because I’m a rotten shot.) if wet, a higher line across the slab goes at abt 5c/6a but bold.
ircelapillship 16 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The top is pretty loose so go easy!
βeta?
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βeta: The top is pretty loose so go easy!
DWMT 3 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Repeated 5 years later, peg in first pitch, numerous runner placements on top slab pitch broken, outside finish on top slab far easier than Walsh\'s groove ! Not E2 etc the way I did it..
Show beta
βeta: Repeated 5 years later, peg in first pitch, numerous runner placements on top slab pitch broken, outside finish on top slab far easier than Walsh's groove ! Not E2 etc the way I did it..
Ariegeois 23 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: There's a way of getting the lasso right every time. Just pull a few loose coils of rope through and instead of wasting time aiming for the spike, toss it into the groove above the spike, and it invariably hooks behind the spike as it comes tumbling down. Then you gently pull it tight, and away you go! Enjoy!
βeta?
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βeta: There's a way of getting the lasso right every time. Just pull a few loose coils of rope through and instead of wasting time aiming for the spike, toss it into the groove above the spike, and it invariably hooks behind the spike as it comes tumbling down. Then you gently pull it tight, and away you go! Enjoy!
Tom Fullen 15 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: In situ nut at the start of the first pitch. You can leave a draw to back rope the second and then collect it when you get back down
βeta?
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βeta: In situ nut at the start of the first pitch. You can leave a draw to back rope the second and then collect it when you get back down
treesrockice 10 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Would recommend the top pitch is worthwhile for the wild 4c moves through the over hang, very easy and not that dirty or loose (for a mountain crag) higher up.
βeta?
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βeta: Would recommend the top pitch is worthwhile for the wild 4c moves through the over hang, very easy and not that dirty or loose (for a mountain crag) higher up.
LucaC 1 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Top pitch is loose, dirty and gruesome. Better to ab from the in situ sling and maillion at the top of the penultimate pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top pitch is loose, dirty and gruesome. Better to ab from the in situ sling and maillion at the top of the penultimate pitch.

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 80
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 78
Votes cast 78
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Bogeyman

Grade: E2 5a ***
(Y Caban)

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