Gwynedd > Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy) >
 
White Slab*** E2 5c

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[White Slab - the whole thing, 2 kb]One of the great Welsh Classics. 1) 5a, 35m. Make a delicate traverse across the lip over the overhangs to a groove. 2) 4b, 20m. Climb to the base of the slab. 3) 5a, 30m. Move up with difficulty to the arete (Linnell's Leap in reverse). Climb the arete to a spike, move right then back left into a groove. Move up to a belay. 4) 5c, 15m. Pull round the arete and make a thin traverse across the slab, then move up to a belay. Alternatively, lasso a small spike and tension across then up to the same belay (making the route a great E1 5b). 5) 5a, 35m. Climb the edge of the slab, detour right then back left and up to a ledge. 6) 4c, 35m. Move left then up to a ledge (possible belay). Pull up steeply then move right to a chimney. This leads to easier ground and the top - as for Longland's. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Hard Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, MIA logbook must haves!, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Photo: White Slab - the whole thing © pneame
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 253 logbooks, and on 75 wishlists.

Frank the Husky - 2014

Neil - Lead O/S - 2014

pie_eater_pete - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/13 with bwestwood

5c pitch
bwestwood - AltLd - 21/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead - 20/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13

Grezza - AltLd - 20/Jul/13 with Paul E

Great route, only slightly traumatic. Went to far on pitch 2, was hard.
rbharries - 2nd - 19/Jul/13 with neils EW, ollie mentalz

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/13

Dan Mckinlay - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/13

great route. step down and go low on the traverse.
SGD - AltLd - 14/Jul/13 with phil wilkinson

Led P1 and crux slab
mark20 - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13

P3 only (!). Approached via Sheaf, then James spent a long time failing to lasso the spike before we bailed ignominiously. The climbing on P3 was good though!
victim of mathematics - 2nd dnf - 07/Jul/13 with James Oswald

Bailed after I failed (repeatedly)to lasoo the spike. If anyone removes the belay after pitch 3 it would be great if you could return it please!
James Oswald - Lead dnf - 07/Jul/13 with Colin Angus

My first mountain route, took around 10 hours due to a lot of wet rock and bad ropework. Went wrong due to not reading the description. At the spike on pitch three i continued up the arete (felt about 5c) to the lassoe ledge. A great route on a perfect day!
Ed morris - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Adam Bevan

nathanlee - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/13 with James Turnbull

jamesturnbull - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/13 with nathan lee

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13

The_Boy_ODwyer - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Colin Harvey

Col Kingshott - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13

Lenny - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Phil .N

Ollie B - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with D.Campbell

Drove over in the morning so didn't set out from Llanberis until midday and then set up camp for the weekend, so didn't start the route till 3pm. Took head torches just in case but in the end didn't need them! A perfect blue sky, nice and warm in the sun and only slightly chilly on the longer belays (didn't get any sun on the route). The crag was absolutely heaving with people - must have been over 25 teams there. We caught up with a team that was ahead of us after their leader took a while on the crux and then another team caught up with us. A great route with a memorable crux on P1 that I led (a few bold 5b traverse moves which are worryingly low down but high up enough for it to hurt if you do hit the ground, though not sure if you would, didn't try to find out!) and another memorable crux on P4 that Phil led (5c padding in a sea of chalk - part of the difficulty was figuring out which holds to use as there was too much choice but no really good holds! we both padded rightwards and then moved up into the groove but some of the other guys went straight up and right). A really good 5a slab/arete on P3 as well. The 5a slab on P5 is on the whole easier but has its moments as well. Spent a while on the crevasse stance at the bottom of P7 due to communication difficulties as Phil did a 50m pitch to just about get all the climbing out of the way. Led P1, 3, 5 and 6. Glad of taking the approach shoes for the descent! Had dinner at the tent while enjoying the orange glow of the sunset on the crag - magic. Didn't see any lassooable spikes (not that Phil needed it) - unless that's meant to be the large pointy flake miles away from the crux?!
Misha - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Phil

Soooo good.
philhilo - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/13 with misha

Hidden - Apr/13

Approached via Sheaf. Really struggled to lasoo the spike so ended up backing off! Massive failure! P3 was nice though!
James Oswald - Lead dnf - 2013 with Colin Angus

jcw - 2013

andybirtwistle - 2013

Tony Kartawick - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Caroline led P1 (5b traverse to flake), 3, 5, 7. I led P2 (up from flake onto slab), 4 (crux - entertaining), 6. Dry, excellent climbing, pretty sustained on the '5a' pitches I thought
theotherpetehill - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Caroline Culwick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12

Quite a serious first pitch which is probably the crux. The 5c pitch didn't seem bold, but when I reached the crack it was wet which added to the excitement.
Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Andy

Did as 5 pitches (linked 1st 2 together). I climbed the 2 long 5a slab piches either side of the 5c pitch.Seconding the initial traverse on pitch 1 was serious and very scarey. We had a bit of a route finding issue at the top of pitch 2; the Clogwyn guide has a very poor desciption saying to go into Gecko groove for a metre or 2.....you need to climb 5m up this groove to bypass a very difficult bit of the slab. All in all a fantastic route. The 5c crux is ok and there is no need to lasso the spike.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Martin Haworth

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/12 with Debbie

Lead P1,P3,P5&6. amazing route P1 traverse is comitting and bold straight from the start, 2nd pitch is great slab climbing, P3 lassoo was difficult to lassoo so just climbed it which was less bold than I initially thought due to there being a massive letterbox foothold halfway across the traverse which i only noticed when i got to it, next 2 pitches are steady but great exposure and situation to be in so still really enjoyable, last pitch is fairly bold on questionable rock but no real problem.
vertically_challenged - AltLd O/S - Jun/12

frost - Lead O/S - 27/May/12 with Clare

E2 Really ?
mux - AltLd O/S - 26/May/12 with Dave Almond

Dave Almond - AltLd - 26/May/12 with Dave Garry

simonp - Lead O/S - May/12 with Annelies Sarrazyn

sgl - AltLd - 28/Mar/12 with Alex

Flair. P4 was probably the best of the bunch. Pretty sustained. Led P1, P3, P4+5.
Alex Winter - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/12 with Sam

AMac - AltLd - 2012 with Angus

Hidden - 2012

Stewart Armstrong - 2012

peterbeaumont - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Stone Idol - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

EagerAndy - Lead O/S - 2012

Coel Hellier - AltLd - 26/Jul/11 with Ben Tibbetts

marcushorgan - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Calum Cuthill, Andy Moles

Led P1 and P4 crux (free).
Andy Moles - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Marcus, Calum

Led 1st (which was terrifying, if not that hard, crux of route imo), 3rd and 5th + 6th pitches in one. First route on Cloggy.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/11 with Mike

Finally made it to Cloggy! Seconding traverse on pitch 1 was very dodgy, didn't want to take the gear out, but then it fell out so that was sorted! Amazing positions on the slabs above, right on the edge with the cliff just falling away beneath. Lassoing the spike on the crux pitch seemed unlikely, didn't even bother trying. Only a couple of 5c moves, but potential for a huge swinging lob! Top pitch unnervingly loose, need to be in a soloing mentality! Adventure!
AlexD - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/11 with Alasdair

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/11

david morse - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/11 with mark A, todd

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/11

markalmack - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/11

Dangerous Dave - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/11 with Wild Beast

One of the best.
DubyaJamesDubya - Lead O/S - Jun/11

al99 - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Ben Jones, Luke Hodson

Climbed as a 3, led p2 and p5. Great route.
lukehodson - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Ben Jones, Al Benson

we made a bit of a mess of this (6 hours) due to route finding and general fannying around. Totally freezing too. the crux move on pitch 4 felt doable but horribly commiting, backed off and seconded it instead. pitch 5 is one of the best E1 5a pitches I have ever done - just perfect and it lead to a massive belay ledge - better than the hanging belay at the top of the previous pitch. Epic Cloggy Adventure
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Remus Knowles

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11

missed out on the last pitch as just gunned for the top (and some sun) in a oner from the start of the easy pitch 5 without checking where to go properly - too late and too cold. crux felt quite hard with leaden fingers and toes - not doing stuff like this on cloggy again 'till it's red hot!
Ram MkiV - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Guy

lead pitch 2 and 4. first move on pitch 1 is terrying on second. crux pitch is a great slab move to karate chop safety jam, where is this spike!?
GuyVG - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Steve

Hidden - 2011

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JEP - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

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Hidden - 2011

led first, crux is probably that, aLEX led the 5c bit
alasdair19 - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

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mwatson - AltLd O/S - 2011

2nd,4th,6th
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/10 with ed-v12

Ed F - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/10 with Ewan

brian watson - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10 with scott titt

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Jun/10

Couldn't find the spike I think it has gone, so freed it. Wasn't even that hard, and no harder than the rest of the climb
roberto18 - AltLd - 14/Jun/10 with Conor Cussell

Hidden - AltLd RP - 02/Jun/10

What a briliant route. Lead the 2nd, 4th and 6th pitches; each of which deserve 3 stars in there own right. Matt took a terrifying fall off the crux, ending up several meters below me. On the next attempt he lasooed the spike first!
lrandall - AltLd - 02/Jun/10 with Matteusz

Great climb. Not enough clothing with us so had to retreat after completing the route.
DubyaJamesDubya - Lead - Jun/10 with Andrew Bevan

Classic?!?
dodfoster - AltLd O/S - 24/May/10 with sam farnsworth

Hidden - Lead - 24/Apr/10

Lead pitches 2,3 and 5. went off route on pitch 3 may have accidently onsighted the redhead direct. hard, thin, muddy and bold! Absolutely fantastic route!
Tomprusk - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Tom Ripley

Hidden - 2010

zukator - Lead - 2010

centurion05 - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

beci tointen - Lead β - Jul/09 with my uncle carl

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/09

Seymore Butt - 2009

Nicos - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08 with ginger ben

Sgt. Vest - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/08 with Andy Davies

Hidden - Lead rpt - 08/Jun/08

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 24/May/08

Got to second belay just before the lasso pitch and it pissed it down. Absolutely gutted! Amazing up to there though and what a crag. Indian Face . . . ahhhh, looks so good!
Ed Booth - AltLd O/S - 11/May/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/07

Rich Mayfield - AltLd - 09/Aug/07 with Mark Stevenson

Got rained off just before pitch 3 on an otherwise awesome summer day! The first pitch and belay weren't enjoyable at all - awesome climbing but thousands of flies everywhere. We'll be back!
ChalkBall - AltLd dnf - 10/Jun/07 with Luke Brooks

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/06

Stig - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/06 with Chris

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/06

rob1 - AltLd - 17/Jun/06 with andrew clark

Great day out, but turned into a typical Clarke-Gray epic when I totally failed to lasso spike. Eventually swopped places with Rob, who managed it 2nd or 3rd try. Unfortunately, didn't realise rope had actually jammed behind spike - all became clear when it unjammed as he attempted to swing across, resulting in inpressive unplanned plummet! Followed crux P3 clean - must come back and lead at some point. Gorgeous slab climbing on Ps 2&4. Led Ps 1,4,6.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/06 with Rob

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/06 with john nuttal

chrishedgehog - AltLd - Jun/06 with James Rees

Boy - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Safety Monkey - AltLd - 2006

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2006

The Pylon King - AltLd O/S - Aug/05 with Chris j

WB - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/05 with Jim

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/05

lassooed the spike
GPN - AltLd - Jun/05 with Tom Gilbert

Took a little fall on crux pitch
chris wyatt - AltLd - Jun/05 with barrie

Brian Rodgers - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Mike Grant

Dave Bond - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Simon Wren

dickypips - AltLd dog - 2005 with Steve Jones

marcoleptic - AltLd O/S - Aug/04 with Sion

Iggy_B - AltLd O/S - Aug/03 with John Arran

Tim W - AltLd O/S - Aug/03 with Gareth Tucker

nicholas Barrowclough - Lead - 15/Jul/03 with Mike Burrows

michael burrows - AltLd rpt - 15/Jul/03 with nicholas Barrowclough

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/03

RossG - 2002

Mark Riley - AltLd - Jun/01 with Bryn Jones

MjrTom - AltLd O/S - 2001 with M Reeves

NeilGriffiths - Lead - Sep/99 with James Hubbard

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/99

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/99

Dave Rumney - 1999

Ched - Lead O/S - 1998 with Glanfor

phardman - 20/Jul/97

Duncan I - Jul/97 with Myles Jordan

rob.grafton - Lead - 1997 with tony howard, Matthew Bransby, Simon Wood

Okecroak - AltLd - 24/Sep/96 with M Mercy

led p1,3,4 &5. Did p4 free
Pete Nugent - Lead - 27/Jul/96 with Ian Makin

mikej - AltLd - 14/Jun/96 with Nick Salmon

richparry - 1995

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Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/94

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/92

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd - May/92 with Paul Kallmes

4th route of the day, climbed the lasoo pitch free and finished the last pitch in the dark! George's first time at Cloggy!
Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd O/S - Jun/91 with George reah

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1991

John Carrol Lead
Jelly Mould Surfer - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/90

sadams - Lead - Jul/90 with Mark Bonham

MikeYouCanClimb - Lead - 06/May/90 with Bill

Nick Rundall - AltLd O/S - 1990

Steve Lenartowicz - 1990

cam1401 - AltLd - Jul/89 with Craig

Paul Evans - AltLd O/S - Jun/89 with Jim Hindley

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/89

Tim Sparrow - AltLd - May/89 with Ian Owen

Went off-route onto Redheads direct finish above the lasso point. Reversed with difficulty then recomposed and lassoed spike on 3rd go :) What a superb route.
Nick Biven - AltLd - 17/Aug/88 with Rich Whitwell

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/88 with ket

Mike Owen - 23/Jun/88 with Paul Mills

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Jun/88

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jun/88

Can't remember who I did this with
PaulTanton - AltLd O/S - Jul/86

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1986 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Couldn't see the spike to lassoo so just leant across and did it free.
Bob - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/85 with J. Topping

Did dirct finish
neilh - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/84 with kevin glass

Free, Longland's direct finish.
Mark Kemball - AltLd - 16/Jul/83 with Dave Abbey

Free. Easy, delicate crux.
Ian Jones - Lead rpt - Jul/83 with Robert Kieske ('Flog')

Done first time in 83 when the peg on first pitch was in good order. Last done 2003. The peg had rusted out making the intitial travers that bit more interesting. Thin move with a thin wire for pro with a nasty potential landing. After the climbing does not deserve E2 unless you miss out the lassoo. The traverse to the lassoo spike is not too hard if slab climbing is your thing. If it isn't, lassoo (gather a big load of rope and lob it at the spike then take in gently. If you try to lassoo it like a cowboy you'll be there all day) the spike then get your second to pay out one rope while taking in the one round the spike and do the traverse. See, not that hard was it. Anyway, the two higher slab pitches are some of the finest most exposed such pitches anywhere at about 5a/b. The top pitch is more grunty but juggy. It is an absolute classic and especially entertaining if climbed as a party of three.
lycraintheloft - AltLd O/S - Jun/83

David Smith - Lead - 18/Sep/82 with kate harper

Led all except last 2 pitches.
charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/82

babymoac - Lead - 02/Aug/81 with MTW

Ian Jones - AltLd O/S - 1980 with Little Pete from Aber Uni.

Climbed this in the early 80's with Angus [BOB] Take note that Angus is left handed and this is a pitch for the right handed climber to make that lasso ! spent ages trying to get the damn thing before I took over.
AMac - AltLd - 1980 with Angus

Chris Craggs - 1980

Pete Nugent - AltLd - 27/Jul/79 with Simon Harry

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jul/79

Used the lasso method. Got the spike first time
Ken Taylor - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/79 with Chris Terrey

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd - Jul/79 with Alan Walmsley

Hidden - AltLd - 28/May/78

Hidden - AltLd - 28/May/78

granitbahn - AltLd - 1978

Nic Robinson - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/77 with Paul Greenland

Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - AltLd - Jun/77 with Phil Smith

sharpie - AltLd O/S - 1977 with Steve lewis

ian caton - AltLd O/S - 1977 with dave roberts

Nic Robinson - AltLd O/S - 1977 with Paul Greenland

steve691 - 1977

GeoffG - AltLd - 17/Jul/76 with tony bowker

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 04/Jul/76 with Dave "Hamish" Wilkinson

GeoffG - AltLd - Jul/76 with tony bowker

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/76

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 27/Jun/76 with Andy Wild

Used the lasoo - pendulum
pneame - AltLd O/S - 1976

Hidden - 1976

The first hot, dry summer when Cloggy was the perfect crag. White Slab and Black Cleft on the same day, for a bit of contrast.
petemeads - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/75

Bolt Phobia - 2nd - 21/May/75 with Dave Williams

Entry pitch is the most technical and quite bold. Took ages to get the lasso, 40+ go's!
Sean Kelly - AltLd - Jun/73 with Martin Cox

Tom V - 1973

1st climb on Cloggy, had to hitch home to Sheffield the next day to think about it. Got the lasso 3rd go - cowboy!
Chris Craggs - Lead O/S - Jun/72 with Steve Warwick

mikej - AltLd - 15/Jun/68 with Geoff Williams

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Voting
Total votes cast 149
hard E30 of 51
E30 of 51
easy E31 of 51
hard E22 of 51
E236 of 51
easy E25 of 51
hard E17 of 51
E10 of 51
easy E10 of 51
hard 6a0 of 51
6a0 of 51
easy 6a0 of 51
hard 5c2 of 51
5c22 of 51
easy 5c13 of 51
hard 5b14 of 51
5b0 of 51
easy 5b0 of 51
3 Stars37 of 47
2 Stars9 of 47
1 Star0 of 47
0 Stars1 of 47
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Style of ascent

Lead40 of 253 (15.8%)
Followed5 of 253 (2.0%)
Alt Leads127 of 253 (50.2%)
Unknown81 of 253 (32.0%)

'Climbed'137 of 253 (54.2%)
clean O/S105 of 253 (41.5%)
clean β1 of 253 (0.4%)
clean rpt4 of 253 (1.6%)
clean RP1 of 253 (0.4%)
dogged1 of 253 (0.4%)
dnf4 of 253 (1.6%)