Gwynedd > Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy) >
 
White Slab*** E2 5c

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[P3, the first slab, 1 kb]One of the great Welsh Classics. 1) 5a, 35m. Make a delicate traverse across the lip over the overhangs to a groove. 2) 4b, 20m. Climb to the base of the slab. 3) 5a, 30m. Move up with difficulty to the arete (Linnell's Leap in reverse). Climb the arete to a spike, move right then back left into a groove. Move up to a belay. 4) 5c, 15m. Pull round the arete and make a thin traverse across the slab, then move up to a belay. Alternatively, lasso a small spike and tension across then up to the same belay (making the route a great E1 5b). 5) 5a, 35m. Climb the edge of the slab, detour right then back left and up to a ledge. 6) 4c, 35m. Move left then up to a ledge (possible belay). Pull up steeply then move right to a chimney. This leads to easier ground and the top - as for Longland's. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Hard Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, MIA logbook must haves!.

Photo: P3, the first slab © David Lanceley
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 212 logbooks, and on 67 wishlists.

Martin Bennett - Apr/13

Martin Bennett - Apr/13

Hidden - 2013

Caroline led P1 (5b traverse to flake), 3, 5, 7. I led P2 (up from flake onto slab), 4 (crux - entertaining), 6. Dry, excellent climbing, pretty sustained on the '5a' pitches I thought
theotherpetehill - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Caroline Culwick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12

Quite a serious first pitch which is probably the crux. The 5c pitch didn't seem bold, but when I reached the crack it was wet which added to the excitement.
Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Andy

Did as 5 pitches (linked 1st 2 together). I climbed the 2 long 5a slab piches either side of the 5c pitch.Seconding the initial traverse on pitch 1 was serious and very scarey. We had a bit of a route finding issue at the top of pitch 2; the Clogwyn guide has a very poor desciption saying to go into Gecko groove for a metre or 2.....you need to climb 5m up this groove to bypass a very difficult bit of the slab. All in all a fantastic route. The 5c crux is ok and there is no need to lasso the spike.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Martin Haworth

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/12 with Debbie

Lead P1,P3,P5&6. amazing route P1 traverse is comitting and bold straight from the start, 2nd pitch is great slab climbing, P3 lassoo was difficult to lassoo so just climbed it which was less bold than I initially thought due to there being a massive letterbox foothold halfway across the traverse which i only noticed when i got to it, next 2 pitches are steady but great exposure and situation to be in so still really enjoyable, last pitch is fairly bold on questionable rock but no real problem.
vertically_challenged - AltLd O/S - Jun/12

frost - Lead O/S - 27/May/12 with Clare

E2 Really ?
mux - AltLd O/S - 26/May/12 with Dave Almond

Dave Almond - AltLd - 26/May/12 with Dave Garry

simonp - Lead O/S - May/12 with Annelies Sarrazyn

sgl - AltLd - 28/Mar/12 with Alex

Flair. P4 was probably the best of the bunch. Pretty sustained. Led P1, P3, P4+5.
Alex Winter - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/12 with Sam

AMac - AltLd - 2012 with Angus

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Stewart Armstrong - 2012

peterbeaumont - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Stone Idol - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

EagerAndy - Lead O/S - 2012

Coel Hellier - AltLd - 26/Jul/11 with Ben Tibbetts

marcushorgan - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Calum Cuthill, Andy Moles

Led P1 and P4 crux (free).
Andy Moles - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Marcus, Calum

Led 1st (which was terrifying, if not that hard, crux of route imo), 3rd and 5th + 6th pitches in one. First route on Cloggy.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/11 with Mike

Finally made it to Cloggy! Seconding traverse on pitch 1 was very dodgy, didn't want to take the gear out, but then it fell out so that was sorted! Amazing positions on the slabs above, right on the edge with the cliff just falling away beneath. Lassoing the spike on the crux pitch seemed unlikely, didn't even bother trying. Only a couple of 5c moves, but potential for a huge swinging lob! Top pitch unnervingly loose, need to be in a soloing mentality! Adventure!
AlexD - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/11 with Alasdair

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/11

david morse - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/11 with mark A, todd

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/11

markalmack - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/11

Dangerous Dave - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/11 with Wild Beast

al99 - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Ben Jones, Luke Hodson

Climbed as a 3, led p2 and p5. Great route.
lukehodson - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Ben Jones, Al Benson

we made a bit of a mess of this (6 hours) due to route finding and general fannying around. Totally freezing too. the crux move on pitch 4 felt doable but horribly commiting, backed off and seconded it instead. pitch 5 is one of the best E1 5a pitches I have ever done - just perfect and it lead to a massive belay ledge - better than the hanging belay at the top of the previous pitch. Epic Cloggy Adventure
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Remus Knowles

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11

missed out on the last pitch as just gunned for the top (and some sun) in a oner from the start of the easy pitch 5 without checking where to go properly - too late and too cold. crux felt quite hard with leaden fingers and toes - not doing stuff like this on cloggy again 'till it's red hot!
Belier - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Guy

lead pitch 2 and 4. first move on pitch 1 is terrying on second. crux pitch is a great slab move to karate chop safety jam, where is this spike!?
GuyVG - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Steve

Hidden - 2011

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JEP - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

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Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - 2011

led first, crux is probably that, aLEX led the 5c bit
alasdair19 - 2011

Hidden - 2011

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mwatson - AltLd O/S - 2011

2nd,4th,6th
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/10 with ed-v12

Ed Feldman - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/10 with Ewan

brian watson - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/10 with scott titt

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/10

Amazing! Didn't lead any of the hard pitches, but pitch 4 was run out and pretty thin at 5a! Crux didn't feel 5c.
conorcussell - AltLd - 15/Jun/10 with Bert

Couldn't find the spike I think it has gone, so freed it. Wasn't even that hard, and no harder than the rest of the climb
roberto18 - AltLd - 14/Jun/10 with Conor Cussell

Hidden - AltLd RP - 02/Jun/10

What a briliant route. Lead the 2nd, 4th and 6th pitches; each of which deserve 3 stars in there own right. Matt took a terrifying fall off the crux, ending up several meters below me. On the next attempt he lasooed the spike first!
lrandall - AltLd - 02/Jun/10 with Matteusz

Classic?!?
dodfoster - AltLd O/S - 24/May/10 with sam farnsworth

Hidden - Lead - 24/Apr/10

Lead pitches 2,3 and 5. went off route on pitch 3 may have accidently onsighted the redhead direct. hard, thin, muddy and bold! Absolutely fantastic route!
Tomprusk - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Tom Ripley

Hidden - 2010

zukator - Lead - 2010

centurion05 - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

beci tointen - Lead β - Jul/09 with my uncle carl

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/09

Seymore Butt - 2009

Nicos - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08 with ginger ben

Sgt. Vest - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/08 with Andy Davies

Hidden - Lead rpt - 08/Jun/08

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 24/May/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/May/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/07

Rich Mayfield - AltLd - 09/Aug/07 with Mark Stevenson

Got rained off just before pitch 3 on an otherwise awesome summer day! The first pitch and belay weren't enjoyable at all - awesome climbing but thousands of flies everywhere. We'll be back!
ChalkBall - AltLd dnf - 10/Jun/07 with Luke Brooks

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/06

Stig - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/06 with Chris

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/06

rob1 - AltLd - 17/Jun/06 with andrew clark

Great day out, but turned into a typical Clarke-Gray epic when I totally failed to lassoo spike. Eventually swopped places with Rob, who managed it 2nd or 3rd try. Unfortunately, didn't realise rope had actually jammed behind spike - all became clear when it unjammed as he attempted to swing across, resulting in inpressive unplanned plummet! Followed crux P3 clean - must come back and lead at some point. Gorgeous slab climbing on Ps 2&4. Led Ps 1,4,6.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/06 with Rob

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/06 with john nuttal

chrishedgehog - AltLd - Jun/06 with James Rees

Boy - 2006

mikelawrence aka jonnienomates - 2006

Safety Monkey - AltLd - 2006

The Pylon King - AltLd O/S - Aug/05 with Chris j

WB - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/05 with Jim

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/05

lassooed the spike
GPN - AltLd - Jun/05 with Tom Gilbert

Took a little fall on crux pitch
chris wyatt - AltLd - Jun/05 with barrie

Brian Rodgers - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Mike Grant

Dave Bond - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Simon Wren

dickypips - AltLd dog - 2005 with Steve Jones

marcoleptic - AltLd O/S - Aug/04 with Sion

Iggy_B - AltLd O/S - Aug/03 with John Arran

Tim W - AltLd O/S - Aug/03 with Gareth Tucker

nicholas Barrowclough - Lead - 15/Jul/03 with Mike Burrows

michael burrows - AltLd rpt - 15/Jul/03 with nicholas Barrowclough

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/03

RossG - 2002

Mark Riley - AltLd - Jun/01 with Bryn Jones

MjrTom - AltLd O/S - 2001 with M Reeves

NeilGriffiths - Lead - Sep/99 with James Hubbard

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/99

Dave Rumney - 1999

Ched - Lead O/S - 1998 with Glanfor

phardman - 20/Jul/97

Duncan I - Jul/97 with Myles Jordan

Okecroak - AltLd - 24/Sep/96 with M Mercy

led p1,3,4 &5. Did p4 free
Pete Nugent - Lead - 27/Jul/96 with Ian Makin

richparry - 1995

Hidden - 1995

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Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/94

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/92

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd - May/92 with Paul Kallmes

4th route of the day, climbed the lasoo pitch free and finished the last pitch in the dark! George's first time at Cloggy!
Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd O/S - Jun/91 with George reah

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1991

John Carrol Lead
Jelly Mould Surfer - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/90

sadams - Lead - Jul/90 with Mark Bonham

Nick Rundall - AltLd O/S - 1990

Steve Lenartowicz - 1990

cam1401 - AltLd - Jul/89 with Craig

Paul Evans - AltLd O/S - Jun/89 with Jim Hindley

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/89

Tim Sparrow - AltLd - May/89 with Ian Owen

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/88 with ket

Mike Owen - 23/Jun/88 with Paul Mills

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Jun/88

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jun/88

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1986 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Couldn't see the spike to lassoo so just leant across and did it free.
Bob - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/85 with J. Topping

Did dirct finish
neilh - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/84 with kevin glass

Free, Longland's direct finish.
Mark Kemball - AltLd - 16/Jul/83 with Dave Abbey

Free. Easy, delicate crux.
Ian Jones - Lead rpt - Jul/83 with Robert Kieske ('Flog')

Done first time in 83 when the peg on first pitch was in good order. Last done 2003. The peg had rusted out making the intitial travers that bit more interesting. Thin move with a thin wire for pro with a nasty potential landing. After the climbing does not deserve E2 unless you miss out the lassoo. The traverse to the lassoo spike is not too hard if slab climbing is your thing. If it isn't, lassoo (gather a big load of rope and lob it at the spike then take in gently. If you try to lassoo it like a cowboy you'll be there all day) the spike then get your second to pay out one rope while taking in the one round the spike and do the traverse. See, not that hard was it. Anyway, the two higher slab pitches are some of the finest most exposed such pitches anywhere at about 5a/b. The top pitch is more grunty but juggy. It is an absolute classic and especially entertaining if climbed as a party of three.
lycraintheloft - AltLd O/S - Jun/83

David Smith - Lead - 18/Sep/82 with kate harper

Led all except last 2 pitches.
charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/82

babymoac - Lead - 02/Aug/81 with MTW

Ian Jones - AltLd O/S - 1980 with Little Pete from Aber Uni.

Climbed this in the early 80's with Angus [BOB] Take note that Angus is left handed and this is a pitch for the right handed climber to make that lasso ! spent ages trying to get the damn thing before I took over.
AMac - AltLd - 1980 with Angus

Chris Craggs - 1980

Pete Nugent - AltLd - 27/Jul/79 with Simon Harry

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jul/79

Used the lasso method. Got the spike first time
Ken Taylor - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/79 with Chris Terrey

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd - Jul/79 with Alan Walmsley

Hidden - AltLd - 28/May/78

Hidden - AltLd - 28/May/78

granitbahn - AltLd - 1978

Nic Robinson - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/77 with Paul Greenland

ian caton - AltLd O/S - 1977 with dave roberts

Nic Robinson - AltLd O/S - 1977 with Paul Greenland

steve691 - 1977

GeoffG - AltLd - 17/Jul/76 with tony bowker

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 04/Jul/76 with Dave "Hamish" Wilkinson

GeoffG - AltLd - Jul/76 with tony bowker

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/76

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 27/Jun/76 with Andy Wild

Used the lasoo - pendulum
pneame - AltLd O/S - 1976

Hidden - 1976

The first hot, dry summer when Cloggy was the perfect crag. White Slab and Black Cleft on the same day, for a bit of contrast.
petemeads - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/75

Bolt Phobia - 2nd - 21/May/75 with Dave Williams

Entry pitch is the most technical and quite bold. Took ages to get the lasso, 40+ go's!
Sean Kelly - AltLd - Jun/73 with Martin Cox

Tom V - 1973

1st climb on Cloggy, had to hitch home to Sheffield the next day to think about it. Got the lasso 3rd go - cowboy!
Chris Craggs - Lead O/S - Jun/72 with Steve Warwick

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Voting
Total votes cast 114
hard E30 of 39
E30 of 39
easy E31 of 39
hard E21 of 39
E226 of 39
easy E25 of 39
hard E16 of 39
E10 of 39
easy E10 of 39
hard 6a0 of 39
6a0 of 39
easy 6a0 of 39
hard 5c1 of 39
5c13 of 39
easy 5c11 of 39
hard 5b14 of 39
5b0 of 39
easy 5b0 of 39
3 Stars29 of 36
2 Stars6 of 36
1 Star0 of 36
0 Stars1 of 36
Bag of .....0 of 36
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Style of ascent

Lead29 of 212 (13.7%)
Followed3 of 212 (1.4%)
Alt Leads100 of 212 (47.2%)
Unknown80 of 212 (37.7%)

'Climbed'124 of 212 (58.5%)
clean O/S80 of 212 (37.7%)
clean β1 of 212 (0.5%)
clean rpt4 of 212 (1.9%)
clean RP1 of 212 (0.5%)
dogged1 of 212 (0.5%)
dnf1 of 212 (0.5%)