Rockfax Description
A brilliant combination of pitches taking the best line up this side of the buttress. Rope up and scramble up for about 40m, as far as the first way through the overhang, by a reddish slab.
1) 4c, 45m. Move up and left to spikes and blocks. Climb onto the slab and arrange gear on the right. Step down and left to the base a long groove. Follow this, on good holds, to a move left to a good ledge on the arete. Traverse left to a block belay.
2) 4a, 25m. Move right across exposed ledges to gain the rib. Climb this in a spectacular situation to a stance.
3) 5a, 35m. There are two options: hard or bold. The harder one is a low traverse to make a difficult pull up to gain the diagonal break. Option 2 is to go high, which is scarier, and foot traverse the break. Continue to a crack which leads to a ledge on the left edge of the slab.
4) 4b, 25m. Steady climbing up a thin crack in the slab edge to another well-positioned stance.
5) 35m. Pull right back onto Great Slab and climb the rib past a possible belay to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Hard Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, MIA logbook must haves!, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist, North wales road to ruins HVS.


ClimberDateStyle
Teappleby 03/Oct/15 AltLd

Perfect. Led pitches 3&5. Amazing line, route and climbing. There is just something about Cloggy....

Dawn_K_B 03/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Excellent, led P1,2,4. First time climbing at Cloggy and driving up for the day was 100% worth it; felt like a proper mountain route with nice moves. Rock was dry and got the route done before the mist fully came in, then Pete's Eats for tea!

spidermonkey09 16/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

What a great route, only led the average pitches (which were incidentally pretty bold!) but a great experience. First pitch the definite crux, particularly in the wet- I was gripped seconding!

Ellie Fuller 16/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Led p.1 and p.3/4 together. Scary wet, totally run-out start! Found the crux move on p.3 pretty hard, only just reaching the hold fully stretched out!

robpartridge 30/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Tom Nichols
Tom McCabe 11/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

First route on Cloggy! Led first, third and last; pitches... spectacular positions.

Rafal Malczyk 23/May/15 AltLd O/S
with Martin Bagshaw
Martin Bagshaw 23/May/15 AltLd O/S
with Rafal Malczyk
Stanners 21/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

P 1, crux and top. EPIC. Nearly didn't head up to cloggy but 'those that dare venture experience the greatest rewards' or something like that. Hiked in night before and bivvy'd under the stars ..brrr. After smashing the ice off our shoes we set off and putting up with the cold was worth it. Amazing position and a nice welcome to cloggy. Must go back in the morning or evening sun to do more.

with Giles
Hidden ??/2015 AltLd
Russell Lovett ??/2015 2nd O/S

Done in the early 1980,s cant remember name of the marine or exact date.

with Tim Dunsby and some marine
Pete_Frost 13/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Nice climb with a couple of tricky traverses. Good footwork and sticky rubber helps.

with Patric
Denry 11/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Amazing climb on a forboding crag. I led Pitch 2, Ollie led the rest. Such a spectacular climb. Next time take a camera!

with Ollie Mentz
sgl 10/Sep/14 AltLd
with will
Hidden 10/Sep/14 -
petrch 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Maarten Youngman
julesmckim 06/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Some good climbing lower down, otherwise a bit scrappy, mostly going at about V Diff. The position and the location though are brilliant.

David_Gledson 04/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

I led 1, 3 and 5. Lovely lovely route. Pitch 1 quite hard and bold. The second is exposed to big swings on both traverses.

Clay C 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

First time up at Cloggy, and it didn't disappoint! Led P2 & 4

with Jay
rockcat 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

An excellent route but didn't deserve 3 stars due to much grass on particularly the 3rd pitch and inconsistnt climbing.

with Mad Mag
magsb 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

First adventure on Cloggy, led pitches 2 & 4. Full on day out.

kenneM 26/Jul/14 AltLd
with Nick Murray
kelly_426 25/Jul/14 AltLd
with Caitlin Douglas, Sasha Doyle
caradoc 23/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Should have gone right,not straight up from the belay on pitch 2. Video here: http://youtu.be/lQA3A0AZcag

with Matt H.
Helen Gibson 12/Jul/14 AltLd

Led pitch 1, 3, 5. Brilliant!

Hidden 11/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
redshapedfriday 11/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Matt Harris, Owen Pearce
James Oswald ?/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Colin Angus
Hidden 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
R0bbie 24/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with leighn, Taba
myoung 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Helen
Hidden 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Tommy Moore 20/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Nice. 1pt aid on the traverse, couldn't be bothered with whichever move it was.

john lynch 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Nice and long, a really good adventure and the sun hit us on the top couple of pitches.

with Tommy
rbruce 16/Jun/14 AltLd

Outstanding and historic route

with andy kirk
Hidden 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
rbharries 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

awe some

with Danger olly
alooker 13/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

P3,5

with Alex, Ed
mrteale 13/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with alook
JamesWilliams 12/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

P1,P3,P5. First time at cloggy and its totally amazing! Awesome 3* climbing fantastic views on a lovely sunny day :) thanks for letting me lead the crux pitch dan

Dan724 12/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Amazing rock and gear and straightforward route finding. What a brilliant climb, one of the best climbing days of my life :D

Rob Evans ?/Jun/14 AltLd
BushwackerBritz ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Welly Matt ?/May/14 AltLd O/S

cold.

ripper 20/Apr/14 AltLd

First time on Cloggy - cold, windy, big and awesome! we somehow did the route in four pitches instead of five - think we went too high on p2, then the traverse on p3 was in the wrong place (and very sketchy!), then continued to the end of what should have been p4. Still a great route.

with Matt Chap
BenRyle 16/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
rustaldo 15/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with Matt
Hidden ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
Rob84 28/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Rob Adie
sparkass 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Top class, very exposed and adventurous. Rob's impression of Sharma on Dreamcatcher at the crux traverse made up for the disappointing climbing.

with Rob Lovatt
Julian Prieto 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1, 3, 5

cliffy 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
TomMorgan 23/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Sam Wainwright
Chris Manasseh 21/Jul/13 AltLd

Led pp 3,4 + 5

with Ste Millington
stemill 21/Jul/13 AltLd

Led P1+2

joese7en 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
drysori 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with brannock
cathymiller 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Sabrina Wong
Brannock 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
mjeffery 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Rob
dan gibson 19/Jul/13 Solo O/S
alpinismo.uk 18/Jul/13 AltLd

tried to do the crux, difficult 2+meter section that was very problematic, not much for feet/ hands, partner took over and managed fine, should of led it as would of been less scary a fall!

Mr Tickle 18/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1, P3 and P5. Did the lower hand traverse which was ok, probably easier for the tall.

with davenev
davenev 18/Jul/13 AltLd

Led p2 & p4 - p3 required extendable arms which I forgot to bring!!!

with luke
Samuel Wainwright 15/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Tom Morgan
ianstevens 15/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Friggin awesome.

ad111 15/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Colin Scotchford 13/Jul/13 AltLd
kdalzell 12/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 10/Jul/13 AltLd
Palindrome 07/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Easy for HVS with maybe 10m of 5a traversing. We took an unplanned variation in P2 into the groove on the left rather than up the pillar. A bit dirty but interesting climbing (possibly 5a).

Martin Haworth 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
victim of mathematics 06/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2 & 4. Brilliant route. James unreasonably went for the low, hard and well-protected option on the traverse, so I had to follow that way to get the gear back. Tough!

stratandrew 05/Jul/13 AltLd

Led P2 and P4. Traverse on P3 v hard. out of balance with far too heavy sac and fell off trying the foot traverse version - don't bother - come at it from underneath!

with Colin Maddison
dawp4810 26/Jun/13 2nd

Climbed with Justin from Clip up Climbing. Great day out!

piersnewton 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

pitch 2 and 4 lead

ollyroberts 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1,3+5

John Nuttall 09/Jun/13 AltLd
with Andy H
Hidden 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/13 AltLd
Julesthe1st 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Guy
Hidden 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
cem 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led p 1, 3 & 5. Good route but perhaps ** rather than ***?

Hidden 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
guy757 07/Jun/13 -
Hidden 02/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/13 -
andybirtwistle ??/2013 -
adie84 ??/2013 -
jcw ??/2013 -
Dizz 09/Sep/12 AltLd

Thought the traverse was desperate but might have been a reach issue :-) Got stupid flash pumped and rested on an rp! Doh!

with David B
mes32 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

P1 and P3. Bold traverses, fun.

with Will
Stone Muppet 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with tl
will_benfold 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and P4

with Mary
jack01 08/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with francis
mrginna 06/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1, and 3. Rolled pitches 3 and 4 into one pitch. Great route!!

with Duncan
Hidden 11/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 27/May/12 AltLd
Hidden 27/May/12 AltLd O/S
McGuinness 27/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Dafydd
Dafydd Llywelyn 27/May/12 AltLd O/S
DaveMo 26/May/12 AltLd O/S

Beautiful weather. Gorgeous setting. Loved this route - first experience of Cloggy and first HVS lead. Lead P1 and P3. P3 was really long and great quality all the way. Delicate moves with good protection. Awkward stance though with strong wind which didn't help.

with Jan
highclimber 25/May/12 AltLd O/S

did P1 and 4. excellent introduction to Cloggy.

Cardi 25/May/12 AltLd O/S

First Cloggy experience. Led P2,3,5

with Anthony
cheeky 25/May/12 AltLd O/S
mark4344 25/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Matt Payne
Danjones 22/May/12 AltLd rpt

Great route, slightly damp in places and bit polished on 1st pitch. Tricky traverse on 1st and 3rd pitches but both well protected. Alternate leads, 1st,3rd, 5th pitches.

with Gerallt
Gerallt Owain 22/May/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Mar/12 AltLd
A Downing ??/2012 -
Stewart Armstrong ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Andy Edgar ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Ketu 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with Kirill
Kirill 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

led p1, p3, p5

PaulTanton ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Anita Grey
Hidden 13/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
pebbles 03/Jul/11 2nd

walked in over the side of the llanberis pass, over rationalised our gear and left our guidebook behind too! so followed another team up the route

with guido
Hidden 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
dan ely 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with steve
Hidden 19/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
robertmichaeladams 04/Jun/11 AltLd

very nice

with Tom
jayrenegade 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Nice route, not as hard as I expected, climbed scratch at tremadog the next day and thought it was much harder.

with Prav
tomdude 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with rob
Smelly Fox 03/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

A bit of a let down really. Quite chossy and vegetated considering its "classic" status. A nice line though.

with Steve Addy
Ollie B 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

vember was wet so this became my first cloggy experience.

with S.Bennett
jamesh 29/Apr/11 2nd
with Jim Unwin
Hidden 27/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Apr/11 AltLd
Pete Nugent 21/Apr/11 AltLd rpt

led p1 & p3. Excellent clear day, fantastic views from the top!

with John Nuttall
Hidden ??/2011 -
rob_small ??/2011 AltLd β
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
alasdair19 ??/2011 -

swung leads with Ruairdh F

Hidden ??/2011 -
alisonsmigova 02/Sep/10 2nd
Laurence Everitt 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Cocky
adam coxsell 15/Aug/10 2nd
david morse 27/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with lole
Hidden 27/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
J1PEF 26/Jun/10 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Abi Chard 25/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Anna, Alex
Hidden 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
andybenham 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Great route. Interesting starting moves and an exellent super exposed crux on pitch three. I would agree with others that the rest is not that hard but the scale and situations make this an awesome day out. Good times.

Gareth 19/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Great day out. Rock dry as a bone. Loved the belay at the end of pitch 4.

with Andrew
brian watson 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with scott titt
Hidden 18/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
lrandall 04/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st, 3rd and 5th pitches. Brilliant route, with a great crux traverse, a fantastically fun 1st pitch and a LONG, rambling and run-out VDiff pitch to finish.

Jennyvs 25/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/May/10 -
Hidden 24/May/10 AltLd O/S
Sophie Nunn 22/May/10 AltLd O/S
Tomprusk 18/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
zukator ??/2010 Lead
Dave Rumney ??/2010 -
with Tanya Milner
gritrash0 ??/2010 -
soph ??/2010 -
theotherpetehill 17/Sep/09 AltLd

Led P1, 3, 5

chrisallan 17/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Misha 12/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

A bit disappointing as, although there is some nice climbing, it's not at all sustained at 4c / 5a, so I'd give this only one star. The holds on the crux traverse were a bit damp and some of the non-essential cracks on the easier sections were outright slimy, despite over a week of dry, fine weather. Led P1, 3 and 5.

MD 12/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with Misha
reg_measures ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with timmy & tom
esther ?/Aug/09 AltLd
thompson1000 02/Jun/09 -
with Olly
Tanya Savage 30/May/09 2nd

Super scary 5a traverse

Neil Pacey 30/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/09 AltLd
Hidden 27/Sep/08 AltLd
Hidden 27/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Tim Sparrow ?/Aug/08 AltLd
with Geoff Thomas
jcurley 16/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd & 4th.Mike led the 5a pitch. Excellent day

Hidden 15/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Chriswallis2 15/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Jim
Hidden 08/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
ChalkBall 01/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Luke Brooks 01/Jun/08 Lead O/S
irish paul 31/May/08 AltLd
with Sarah Joyce
centurion05 14/May/08 Lead O/S
with ginge
Bob 11/May/08 AltLd O/S

Got caught in a downpour just after the crux.

with C Chaloner
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Marcus ??/2008 -
Hidden 15/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
bullwinkle 26/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 2 & 4

with John
Hidden 12/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Rich Mayfield 12/Aug/07 AltLd
spacey 08/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
Paddy_The_Fascist 28/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Andy Morris
Hidden 08/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
rob1 10/Jun/06 AltLd
Andy Clarke 10/Jun/06 AltLd O/S

Led Ps 1,3,5.

with Rob
DavidR 06/May/06 AltLd O/S
with John Marston
Hidden 29/Apr/06 AltLd
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
with Carol Emmons
Hidden 27/Jun/05 AltLd
mike lawrence? 01/Jun/05 -
with Alex B
Hidden ?/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
tom.e ?/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
with Charlie Everett
lithos ?/Jul/04 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/04 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/02 AltLd O/S
Urgles ?/Aug/02 AltLd
with Fiend (on multipitch!?!)
Urgles ?/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with Fiend
Just Another Dave 01/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Chris Bird
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2002 -
with Naomi Walker, Martin Flint
Mark Riley ?/May/00 AltLd
with Stuart Greenall
IanGilbertJones 10/Jul/99 AltLd O/S
dickypips ??/1999 AltLd O/S

john led crux traverse

with john richards
Ched ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
WB ??/1998 AltLd O/S
with Nicola
alan moore ??/1998 -

Not bad. A bit shambly.

zero six ??/1998 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/97 2nd O/S
phardman 20/Jul/97 -
Paul Boardman 12/Jun/97 AltLd O/S
with Iain Boardman
timreynolds 15/Jun/96 AltLd
with John Burnip
steveboote ??/1995 AltLd

With Mike Pritchard

Babika 30/May/94 Lead O/S
with Sean Toms
nai 01/Sep/93 AltLd
with Roger Devy
Budge ??/1992 AltLd
with Brian Ottewell
lithos ??/1992 AltLd
Hidden 01/Jun/91 AltLd
AndrewP 19/Jul/90 AltLd O/S

It was VS when I did it!

Nick Rundall ??/1990 AltLd O/S
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 AltLd
Hidden ??/1990 AltLd
scree ?/Jun/89 -
charlesmfrench 29/May/89 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/May/89 Lead
michael burrows 21/May/89 AltLd O/S
with pete roberts
Hidden 17/May/89 Lead
Nick Biven 08/Aug/88 AltLd
with Ray Jenkins
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd
Hidden 06/Jul/87 AltLd O/S
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Jun/87 AltLd O/S
with Andy Heald
andyblain ?/Jun/86 AltLd O/S

first hard rock route

William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden 07/Jul/85 AltLd
JamieAyres ?/Aug/84 AltLd O/S
with Mark Hopkins
neilh 06/Jul/84 Lead

One of two teams on Cloggy,atmospheric

with dave croker
Nevil ?/Apr/84 2nd
with Bob
Pete Nugent 18/Jun/83 AltLd

IM led p1 of Great, I led most of Bow (p4,5 -5a,7), VS,4c in 1976 guide!

with Ian Makin
Hidden ??/1983 -
Mike Owen 25/Jul/82 Solo O/S

solo

JEP ??/1981 AltLd
babymoac 24/May/80 AltLd
with MTW
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
andy gittins ??/1980 -
robinsi197 ??/1980 -
with Barbara
Brian Wilderspin 14/Oct/78 AltLd
with Dave Winter
Hidden 19/Jun/78 AltLd
Chris Terrey 14/Jun/78 Lead
with Roger Wilson
granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
uphillnow ?/Sep/77 AltLd

Had done Great Slab in 1963. Seem to recall I got the link pitch

with George Wilson
Mark Kemball 12/Aug/77 2nd
with Sarah Bridge, George Mumford
GeoffG 10/Jul/77 AltLd
with tony bowker
GeoffG ?/Jul/77 AltLd
with tony bowker
Dave Musgrove 21/Aug/76 AltLd

3rd big route of the day.

with Jim Worthington
mikej 08/Aug/76 AltLd
with Mike Byles
Rob Davies 01/Jul/76 Lead
with John Davies
Hidden 29/Jun/76 AltLd
Bolt Phobia 04/Jun/76 Lead
steve L 19/Apr/76 Lead O/S
with Steve Bonus
Marcus ??/1976 -
Nigel Bond 28/Jun/75 Lead
with Robert Lloydd
pneame ??/1974 Solo

Fabulous route - great position

RichardMc 25/Aug/73 AltLd
with Betty Seifert
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 54
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 53
Votes cast 53
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set