UKC

26m. The route follows an impressive corner just left of the obvious undercut section in the middle of the front face. The route is both technical and strenuous. Climb the corner with increasing difficulty until below the overhang. Hard moves left lead to a ledge and a rest. The overhanging upper crack will test your belief in your own immortality, with the crux where it should be at the top in a very exposed position. The belay totally relies on the turf above the route being hard frozen. This is the only possible belay, Warthogs essential.

The route has been climbed in summer, however, those mad enough to consider doing it are urged to think about their impact. The first recorded ascent of this was as a winter route. Cleaning and removing the moss unnecessarily destroys the character of one of Northumberland's few dedicated standout winter lines.

Tim Catterall, Richard Pow 07/Feb/2003.

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