12 pitches.
5a obl. A great easy route. The top section of 2 - 3a seems to go on forever.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| jogle03 | 11 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: A lovely climb, much more of an alpine route than a multi-pitch sport climb. Never too hard but some nice technical moves, mostly on slab, with fantastic protection. The second pitch after the grass ledge is the crux (5b) with a technical slab move, only 10m or so. All other pitches are true to their grades. Even the earlier 4b pitches still Have interesting climbing on them. Towards the top however there is a lot of lose rock and the grade 4/3 pitches aren’t quite 3 star. One thing to be aware of is the length of the summit ridge, once the last pitch is finished (hard to pin point where exactly) you can expect a good hour of exposed ridge climbing before the summit. For this I recommend bringing a number of slings in order to move together alpine style as there are no bolts. The best descent is off the west ridge followed by 2 abseils of 25m. Be aware that if there is snow at the base it can be tricky to descend safely. It took us a relaxed 6 hours to the summit and 2 hours to descend to the hut moving quickly. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: A lovely climb, much more of an alpine route than a multi-pitch sport climb. Never too hard but some nice technical moves, mostly on slab, with fantastic protection. The second pitch after the grass ledge is the crux (5b) with a technical slab move, only 10m or so. All other pitches are true to their grades. Even the earlier 4b pitches still Have interesting climbing on them. Towards the top however there is a lot of lose rock and the grade 4/3 pitches aren’t quite 3 star. One thing to be aware of is the length of the summit ridge, once the last pitch is finished (hard to pin point where exactly) you can expect a good hour of exposed ridge climbing before the summit. For this I recommend bringing a number of slings in order to move together alpine style as there are no bolts. The best descent is off the west ridge followed by 2 abseils of 25m. Be aware that if there is snow at the base it can be tricky to descend safely. It took us a relaxed 6 hours to the summit and 2 hours to descend to the hut moving quickly. |
||||
Logged Ascents
20 users have logged this
Guidebooks for Wiwanni
Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 19 users have this on their wishlist
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Route of Interest
Marguerite
Grade: 5c ***
(Vionnaz)