An excellent route. The final wall is surprisingly steep and the short ridge is delicate and exposed. Parties often move roped together, only pitching certain sections.
Start just left of the eastern gully which separates Grande Fermeda from Odla de Cisles.
1-4) III-, 200m. Climb easy ground leftwards, following a grassy ramp. Enter a gully in the same line and climb this to its end.
5-8) III, 100m. Follow ledges right, climbing a short chimney and reaching a stance on a grassy shoulder.
9-11) II, 150m. Follow a path left over ledges. Climb a short crack and ignore the chimney above. Continue left to reach a small stone barrier.
12) II, 20m. Move up then follow a ledge right. Climb a short wall with numerous threads.
13) II, 55m. Follow a ramp left, move back right towards a grassy ledge, then left again to an exposed stance.
14) III, 30m. Move further left then climb a crack direct, before traversing a compact and exposed slab left.
15) IV-, 30m. Move left then climb a steep pocketed face to a good stance.
16) III, 20m. Either climb a small bulge and a chimney (harder at IV-) or traverse left below a steep wall then move right to enter a gully.
17) II, 50m. Follow the gully right, passing a large boulder to a thread just before a prominent saddle by a plaque.
18) II, 30m. Move left, climbing red rock then follow a ledge left.
19) III, 40m. Ascend to a ridge, climb a short chimney then follow the ridge left to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start in the gully at the East side of the face and follow a grassy rake up L before breaking away to the ridge. The harder sections are well potected with bolts or simple natural gear.
Descend via old abseil rings into the East gully to reach the start-point or, preferably, by downclimbing/abseiling the line of the normal route.
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