Rockfax Description
The best line on the buttress, run-out in places.
1) 4b, 20m. Start at the toe of the buttress, climb up and right past a short corner, and onto slabs above. Continue to a grass ledge.
2) 15m. Move up and right to the main slab.
3) 20m - ish. Follow this past several ledges and belay where convenient.
4) 20m - ish. A similar pitch taking the line of best rock.
5) 15m. Continue to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Ultimate HS ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
Mark Salter 15/Aug AltLd O/S
with Chris Shorrock
divadsci 19/Jun 2nd O/S
mjackson 04/Jun 2nd
Jack2222 20/Apr Lead O/S

Great climb on mostly good rock. Bold for the grade after the first pitch but still enjoyable. Very loose top out.

Mike Roger ??/2016 -
richy85 30/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Great location but it was wet and green. Not the best climb. The only good pitch was the first one. The rest were unprotectable almost

with Sam from Bangor
Louishmouis 12/Aug/15 -
with finn
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
gingerking ?/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S
matt.stevenson 07/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 and then 4 & 5 as one. Fairly run out after the first pitch and very loose rock on the scramble to the top!

Mike Hale 07/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
kelly_426 25/Jul/14 AltLd
with Caitlin Douglas, Sasha Doyle
spenser 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Very good route, 4b is all in the first pitch. The latter pitches all have very run out sections of slab climbing. Belays on everything other than the first pitch are relatively tricky. Take hexes and several cams around size 0-3 and you should be able to tame the route a bit. Definitely more than we bargained for but a fantastic experience!

with Jon Cheetham
peterhubbard 16/Apr/14 AltLd

Climbed in 5 pitches. I led p2 and p4

with Neil Stutchbury
Bob ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
sopaz 25/Aug/13 AltLd
simonvand 12/Aug/13 AltLd
roberts1234567890 12/Aug/13 AltLd
with Simon Van Dam, Callum Bridger
tev 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Climbed as 4 pitches.

with Charlene
Double Knee Bar 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Andy lead first pitch. Surprising how little protection is on the upper slabs.

Hidden 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
rbharries 09/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Great day out, 2nd pitch onwards is easy climbing but with no gear, nice little adventure

with josie McG
francesanncavanagh 02/Jun/13 AltLd

Dovey lead first pitch.

with Ian Dovey
DOVEY 02/Jun/13 Lead
with Fran
maria85 25/May/13 AltLd O/S

First pitch is nice, the rest are mediocre. Not worth 2*.

with Amy
Hidden 03/Mar/13 AltLd
mike lawrence? ??/2013 Solo
Mark Young 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Roger Cruse, Kris
Roger Cruse 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Kris & Mark
stratandrew 07/Jul/12 AltLd

Me P1 & P3. Steve P2 & P4. fist pitch good traverse (as it was dry - would be v serious in wet) then good gear in greasy crack climbed on jams. P2 & P3 hardly any gear at all on the slabs but mostly easy angle.

Ollie B 27/May/12 Solo O/S

Nice first pitch. Scrappy therafter. Like Idwal without the polish

RoscoJB 27/May/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/May/12 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/12 Solo O/S
joe_lancs 25/Mar/12 Lead

Definitely did first pitch but not sure about the rest!

Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden 30/Jul/11 -
Archibald 14/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Very bad route. We just climb it in Cloggy, I prefere Gogarth, witch is a very good cliff.

Archibald ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Very bad route. We disliked. It's not difficult but never beautiful.

Alex.M-M. 14/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Julie Carroll 28/Apr/11 AltLd
with Ross
Stuart Hurworth 27/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Excellent. First pitch has one or two 4b moves, but after that its several pitches of delightful clean slab climbing!! Protection is tricky in places, need some micronuts lower down, but is a bit better above & the moves are easy. We belayed just above end of 2nd pitch in the gully & didn't find the belay for pitch 3 so belayed at the shattered spike/block/mini arete at the top of the gully. Think this was probably a little off route, missed out what looked like lovely clean climbing up the slabs on the left, if only for a few moves before the easy scramble over heather and loose rock. Done in 4 pitches with 60m doubles.

Hidden 27/Apr/11 AltLd
dan_o_b ?/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
tedburt 25/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Very cold!

with Aaron Burdett
stuart34 21/Jun/10 2nd
Tomprusk 06/Jun/10 Solo O/S

quite loose at the top of the climb

with Nick
Nick Nitro 05/Jun/10 Solo O/S
Haszko 04/Jun/10 Lead

Clean, no loose rock, very sparse protection, excellent climbing

Hidden ?/May/10 AltLd
alancash100 ??/2010 AltLd

This route is great if you like 25 metre run outs, poor belays on sloping grassy ledges and massess of loose, head sized rocks - no mention of this in the ground up guide, it describes the route as "delightful"!

peter myers ?/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
with Ralph Heath
willoates ?/Sep/09 Lead dog

poor route... slid 20m head first down the fourth pitch (foot slipped in the wet) onto the only cam I took with me.

Od 25/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Jill Reinsch
Bennykr 25/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Jonny
adam06 01/Jun/09 AltLd

very run-out after the first pitch, and last pitch is dodgy - feels like the flakes gonna break-off. other than that, nice intro to clogy

hils theaker 01/Jun/09 AltLd

some awkward sections on 1st pitch, rest is run-out but easy climbing

with Adam
stevemcg 31/May/09 AltLd
with Liz
fizzychewitt 31/May/09 AltLd
with Steve
Tanya Savage 30/May/09 AltLd

First pitch good and thought-provoking, loses the plot after that

Neil Pacey 30/May/09 AltLd O/S

Poor route. One pitch followed by easy poorly protected slabs. No stars

Conan 30/May/09 Lead O/S

Very average route. Certainly not 2 stars!

Hidden 30/May/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/May/09 AltLd O/S
Shaw Brown 25/May/09 Lead
with Joanne Larty
steve prior ?/May/09 AltLd
with Andy C
Hidden 15/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
Ed Booth 15/Mar/09 AltLd
rob1 20/Sep/08 Lead
dicky79 13/Jul/08 -
with Nicola
Ben Griffiths 12/Jul/08 2nd

multi-pitch

Hidden 30/Jun/08 AltLd
Hidden 30/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/May/08 AltLd O/S
Rog Wilko 12/May/08 Lead

A disappointing route, not worth 3 stars. First pitch is solid VS 4c. The rest is easy but with huge runouts and an easy gully a step away most of the time. Last pitch loose and unpleasant.

with Debbie Wilkinson
jiles ??/2008 -
jiles ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Wilbur 26/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Lead P2+4 (we ran 5 pitches into 4). First Cloggy experience and i imagine typical of most people's - i.e. difficult route finding! Easy climbing but VERY run out.

with Caine
naine 26/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

stupid slab at the beginning-had frozen feet. great after that

with nick
viking ?/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

particularly enjoyed the 40ft runs outs

with wilbur
My Gravity 09/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with Paul N
Strange little creature 09/May/07 Lead O/S

felt like a 4a Severe, but lovely aspect and views a nice climb

with Andy Longwill
TRNovice 21/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Jenn
Jenn 21/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Moniawl 22/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with rich
richw2k2 22/Jul/06 AltLd
with Monika
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2006 Solo

Overrated.

Hidden ?/May/05 Lead
Ed Booth ??/2000 Lead O/S
Just Another Dave ??/2000 -
with Laura
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Jun/91 AltLd
with Sarah Keekus, Nick Keekus
RichardMc 15/Jul/79 Lead
with Harry Woodbridge
Bolt Phobia 08/Jun/76 AltLd
with Wil Hurford
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ed Hastings, Trevers, Jack Manfredi, GeorgeR, BarrySW19, ms26g10, Kate Edhouse, RyanOsborne, CM1992, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, sting, j4kub, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Alan100, Jimb0, Warren Earle, Hidden, Simon Caldwell
Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 26
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 23
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set