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Vía Pany* 5a

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[Lou on the traverse on Pitch 3, 2 kb]220m, 7 pitches. The most popular route on this face has a fair bit of shrubbery although the climbing higher up is worthwhile. Take a full rack. The stances are mostly geared. 1) 4, 25m. Climb the chimney in the right-hand side of the bay, then move right over a bulge to a good ledge on the right. 2) 3, 50m. Bush-bash up to the top of the buttress on the right. 3) 3, 20m. Climb the rib above then traverse 8m left to a belay. 4) 5, 35m. Climb straight up the chimney to a ledge and continue to a stance on the top of the second buttress. Take great care with loose rock on this pitch! 5) 4+, 30m. Step around the corner to the right and up an easy low-angled broad ramp to the top of the buttress. 6) 4, 30m. Climb the slab slightly leftwards to reach a crack falling from the summit. Follow this in a fine position to a stance and belay about 15m up the crack system. 7) 4+, 30m. Follow the crack - it is awkward low down but the angle and the difficulties ease as height is gained. Where it becomes vegetated pull out left onto the rib (bolt) and follow this eventually moving left into another groove that leads to the cliff top and a belay on easy ground. © ROCKFAX
FA. Panyella, Salas 1955

Photo: Lou on the traverse on Pitch 3 © Tarquin
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 53 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

jon59 - Lead - 23/Mar/14

Horribly grotty first pitch which I led cleanly to the first belay. I took ages, getting stuck wiht bag on my back, and not spotting the way out the chimney. We lost motivation after that (Joby decided not to follow), so we retreated.
pdamann - Lead dnf - 20/Feb/14 with Ed Russell

Michael Haywood - AltLd - 12/Feb/14 with Tim Chamberlain

P1,3,5,7 Uncle Bill P2,4,6 me Climbed in a 3 in 3:15hrs (5:20 door to door)
UnkArl - AltLd O/S - 03/Feb/14 with Uncle Bill, Dad

JonesJ - AltLd - 15/Nov/13

Great route, easy climbing with plenty of trad gear. Went a little off route on the last two pitches. Soft at grade but excellent belays and views.
Zoomer - 2nd O/S - 01/Nov/13 with Gary Mitchell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/13

Jess Mills - 2nd - 24/Aug/13

Very spaced out bolts. Beware seagulls.
ColinVern - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/13 with Mike Thomson

the ant hill mob - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/13

Tarquin - Lead - 26/Nov/12 with Louise

Louvet - 2nd - 26/Nov/12 with Tarquin

daveyji - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/12 with Linda Williamson

LardClimber - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/12 with matt grange

Could do with more cleaning and less undergrowth, but a fine easy expedition anyway
mattgrange - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/12

jon clayton - AltLd - Apr/12 with sasha

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Dec/11

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Nov/11

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Nov/11

First two pitches were pretty overgrown and slippy. Improves alot as we gained height. Very Very windy.
execlimber - Lead O/S - Nov/11

Tenko - AltLd - 12/Oct/11 with Guy Williams

joscott - 2nd - Sep/11 with Sun and Rock

P1 Charlie, P2 Me, P3 C, P4 Me, P5 & P6 C, P7 Me
Rowan Mitchell - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Charlie Jeynes

All the climb was in the shade - got a bit cold
KDW - 2nd O/S - 14/Jan/11 with David Bagley

3+ 50m scramble, what a mess
seeroo - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/11 with Scone

Not sucha great route! Lots of vegetation that was sharp and nasty.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 2011 with Alex, Anette

Tarquin - Lead - 14/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 03/Jan/10

Excellent route, good rock. Discripion in the guide was alittle out. Pitch 5 was about 20m and pitch 4 felt as though it was streigh up, climb directly above the bolt to the stance.
John Roe - AltLd - 27/Mar/09 with Connor Roe

lead the 1st 3rd 5th 7th.
konna - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/09 with John Roe

anyes P2-3
anyes varenne - AltLd - 08/Mar/09 with suzanne

sdht - 2009

Zara_92 - 2nd - Oct/08

crisaitken - AltLd - Nov/07 with gordonhend

gordon henderson - AltLd - Nov/07 with Chris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Nov/06

mikelaing - 2006

Hidden - AltLd β - 15/Dec/05

7 pitches.
Will Gordon - AltLd O/S - Dec/05

dan gibson - Solo O/S - Nov/05

DerwentDiluted - AltLd - 22/Aug/05 with Nicola Pettit

Mark Adams - Lead - 2004

hayleylouise - 2nd - 06/Sep/03 with Holly Adamthwaite, Mike Pohl

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/03

Tarquin - 2003

Tarquin - 2001

Tarquin - 1999

Tarquin - 1997

Good route as a committing scramble, probably a bit scrappy to climb in pitches
EddieA - Solo O/S - Nov/95 with Simon W

steve prior - Lead - Jan/94

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Pluto, Sianny, clairepoppett, badgerspoke, Alan100

Voting
Total votes cast 9
hard 5c0 of 5
5c0 of 5
easy 5c0 of 5
hard 5a0 of 5
5a3 of 5
easy 5a1 of 5
hard 4c0 of 5
4c0 of 5
easy 4c1 of 5
3 Stars0 of 4
2 Stars4 of 4
1 Star0 of 4
0 Stars0 of 4
Bag of .....0 of 4
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 53 (3.8%)
Lead11 of 53 (20.8%)
Followed9 of 53 (17.0%)
Alt Leads24 of 53 (45.3%)
Unknown7 of 53 (13.2%)

'Climbed'29 of 53 (54.7%)
clean O/S21 of 53 (39.6%)
clean β1 of 53 (1.9%)
clean rpt1 of 53 (1.9%)
dnf1 of 53 (1.9%)