Vía Valencianos** 5c (vs)
[Jon on Via Valencianos, 3 kb]245m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
VS. This famous route is too unbalanced and scrappy to be a real classic, but it is popular and takes an easy line up this magnificent big face. Although it is quite an expedition, retreat by abseil is fairly easy. There is a fair amount of fixed gear, but carry a light rack. The short crux pitch has become desperately polished - many use a bit of aid here.
1) 3, 35m. Climb first right, then back left and onto the base of the big white slab - loose. Belay bolts on the left or right.
2) 3, 45m. Walk left past bushes to gain a ledge running back right above the slab and belay directly above your second.
3) 5+, 35m. Climb the corner at the right-hand end of the ledge, then the tough slippery right-slanting crack (the crux, and very polished). The direct version straight up the corner is rumoured to be easier. Move left to belay below the upper slab.
4) 4, 20m. Climb left onto the slab to a bush belay.
5) 4, 30m. One pitch leads to a superb belay on the ridge.
6) 4+, 30m. Walk along the ridge then traverse to the left and climb a flake/crack to a bulge. Belay on bolts a little higher.
7) 20m. Climb rightwards by the easiest line. Belay in a notch.
8) 30m. Easy climbing leads to the summit. © ROCKFAX

FA. A.Martí, M.Gómez, A.Botella, A.Tebar 1958

Ticklists: Mountain Rock (big mid grade summit routes on rock!), Costa Blanca in a Week Tick List, Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes.

Photo: Jon on Via Valencianos © nick simons
View all 23 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 311 logbooks, and on 16 wishlists.

sibluer - AltLd - Jul/15

jon59 - Lead - 03/Apr/15

darrenpp - AltLd - Mar/15

jamie ward - Lead O/S - 05/Feb/15 with Ellis Blower

bob johnson - AltLd - 31/Dec/14 with Bram

Lyndsay Superclimber - AltLd O/S - 31/Dec/14 with Ryan

alpinismo.uk - Lead O/S - 24/Dec/14

As others have said, the crux us polished, but still well climbable clean. A very nice climb.
olekemi - AltLd O/S - 22/Dec/14 with Heike P

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Nov/14

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Nov/14

Led last pitch
SteChappie - 2nd - 25/Nov/14

MP. Mainly trad (very spaced bolts). Really good climbing especially P4-6. Hard crux at polished crack but well protected by a bolt so no real danger as you squirm up! - needed the tat!
Hotcake - AltLd - Nov/14

Alex 74 - AltLd O/S - 21/Oct/14 with Hannah

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/14

natlavender - Sep/14 with Toby Ernster

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead - 24/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/14

hayden cook - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/14

daveclarke5 - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/14 with Stephen

Hidden - Lead - 02/Apr/14

Ive lead this a few times now over the years with different people, the 5+ pitch is ridiculously polished far more than i remember. The polish spoils the route to the point of un-climbability, i won't be doing this route again theres far better about with far less polish.
jon59 - Lead - 25/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Mar/14

Jonny Harrison - 2014

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Dec/13

Great climb with exposed positions, the 5+ section is like climbing glass. There is literally no way, to climb this section with finesse. Salmon out of water techniques needed!
scott mayled - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/13 with A student

JonesJ - AltLd - 12/Nov/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Nov/13

SHONAJONES - 2nd O/S - 10/Nov/13 with Zaheer

Andrew Lester - Lead - 07/Nov/13

Teaching Gary for his RCI, under 3 hours bottom to top!
Zoomer - AltLd O/S - 01/Nov/13 with Gary Mitchell

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Nov/13

Led 1st, crux and 4+ pitch. Climbed as a three. Great belay on the ridge.
ashsleight - AltLd O/S - 01/Nov/13 with Tom doyle, Student

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Oct/13

Climbed with Mick Barraclough, Ray Peace, Chris Hambly
Christian_S85 - 2nd rpt - 10/May/13

Hidden - Apr/13

JohnMetcalfe - 2nd - 28/Mar/13 with Jose Garcia, Alex Metcalfe

crampy11 - Lead rpt - 27/Mar/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/13

Bit windy, bit loose and a bit polished, but great positions and two or three good pitches towards the top. The two pitches leading up to ridge are nice (especially the long pitch) and the steep flake crack (final technical pitch) was great. The polished chimney pitch is exactly what it says on the tin! No tat/fixed gear, as mentoned in guide, but shouldn't be needed. It's tricky, but well protected. We climbed as a 3, with John Makin & me alternating pitches (and with Tony Myers in the middle). We had the route to ourselves, which was fantastic. A good first route for 2013! Make sure you stop for a beer and sign the logbook at the Dracular cafe afterwards! :)
carlh - AltLd O/S - 20/Jan/13

Nick Biven - 2013

Hidden - AltLd - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - Lead dog - 10/Dec/12

Duncan Hardy - AltLd - 05/Dec/12 with Si Burrows

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Dec/12

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/12

Sam_Marsland - AltLd O/S - Dec/12 with Andy Hills

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Nov/12

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Nov/12

Polished Chimney(!!!!) Went up HVS pitch straight up slab to chimney rather than the VS pitch by the bushes! Awesome.
akhutton88 - 2nd - 28/Nov/12 with SPANROCK

Led pitches 1,3,5,7. Pitch 3 very polished, used chockstones in crack. Pitch 5 awesome peering over the ridge is amazing.
simon mitchie - AltLd O/S - 21/Nov/12

Moved together on first 2 pitches.
charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12 with Alex

Multi Pitch
adamsandy1 - 2nd O/S - 14/Nov/12

aproach upto start and once there at 12ish was busy, (need early start to avoid traffic) turned out after 3rd pitch we were on us own, this route is a corker, one hard polished pitch 3rd, every other was fine, plenty of gear placements, and odd bolt and bits of tat, last two pitches linked up with 60m run out of rope to top, top day to top off a great week, thanks to master howes! take plenty of water! and descent footwear for walk down other side,
k2blow - AltLd - 02/Nov/12 with john howes

The Bad Cough - AltLd rpt - 12/Oct/12 with John Nesbitt

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/12

Teaching 1 student. Tried the direct but realised it was a no go with a novice. Loads of seagulls/nests/chicks. Avoided being pecked all the way up, got to the top, took my helmet off and promptly got shat on!
Zoomer - Lead - 25/May/12 with A Student

rovers777 - 2nd O/S - 25/May/12 with gingergeorge

gingergeorge - Lead - 25/May/12 with rovers777

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/May/12

mdg skidmore - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/12 with joe penfold, clive dean

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/12

Alt leads
mike_hough_uk - AltLd - 12/Apr/12 with chri55ie

Lead Pitches 1, 3 and 6
chri55ie - AltLd - 12/Apr/12 with Mike Hough

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/12

Lev - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Helen Ross, Adrian Ross, Emma Ross

Westcorkman - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/12 with Bob Dawson

richyg - 03/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/12

A longish day carting a pack up this climb past a number of angry gulls. Some great positions and great climbing, and a very satisfying "big" climb to round off the trip. I led the odd pitches
simonwaters5 - AltLd O/S - Apr/12 with Gavin Edwards

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Mar/12

Climbed the 6a+ pitch of Polvos Magicos as a variation, had to resort to a rest on a bolt :-( good slippery fun.
Shaw Brown - Lead - 19/Mar/12 with Judith Neaves

jev - AltLd O/S - Mar/12 with Sian, Flo

HodgePL - AltLd - Mar/12

Valentino - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/12

My first "serious" multi-pitch climb! Awesome views on a sunny day and good climbing. We did the 2nd pitch as the 6a+ direct corner pitch variation (and one fall on this pitch).
chriisu - Lead O/S - 18/Feb/12

I led P1 p3 and p5...had to have quite a few attempts at p3 though, downclimbed all bar one. Climbed last 3 pitches in the dark, 7 & 8 on toprope provided by Charley and Kev. Amazing how much you can see without a head torch. On the descent path we were met by a "sky-runner" policeman who had been sent to investigate as our headtorches had been spied from the town!!! :D Epic!!
valentinesbabe - AltLd - 17/Feb/12 with Steven Fletcher

Led every pitch apart from pitch 2 and 7. Definitely more trad then sport. First 3 pitches were quite poor (first two were rubbish), the crack on the crux pitch is let down by the amount of polish but the next 3 pitches were good fun, especially climbing up to the ridge. Not sure I did the correct climb on pitch 6, didn't see the flake, went up a slab instead but did go over a small roof/bulge. Felt hard and bit scary but that was probably due to the monster rope drag I had going on then the actual climbing. Did the final scramble pitch in the dark.
charley - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/12 with Steve Fletcher, Ange, Kev

Lead 2 and 7 clean, 5 dogged, rest clean with charley leading.
Tithe Technique - AltLd dog - 17/Feb/12 with Charley Fell

chumleywarner - AltLd - 17/Feb/12 with Angela Paul

Jonny M - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/12 with Karen Chalmers

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Feb/12

khumbu-Kid - AltLd O/S - Feb/12 with Valentino

Sam_Marsland - Lead O/S - 05/Jan/12 with Mark Eddy

Led evens. Pitch 3...polished is not the word...
FrancescaFord - AltLd - 02/Jan/12 with MN

Hidden - 2012

A Mountain Journey - 2012

Richard P Coates - AltLd O/S - 19/Dec/11 with Brad

Steve13 - AltLd O/S - 06/Dec/11 with Aurelia, Craig Lukins

clukins - Lead O/S - Dec/11 with Steve Holland

Apart from the slab going to the ridge belay this is shit do your self a favour climb something a little harder and enjoy yourself.
ST3V10 - AltLd - Dec/11

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/11

Awsome Climb very nice day done in 3 hours with 2 other partners
stevens744 - Lead O/S - 16/Nov/11 with Andy Span rock

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Nov/11

Will Gordon - Lead rpt - 11/Nov/11 with Novice

1918hasti - AltLd - 11/Nov/11

antonymcphillips - AltLd - Nov/11

SamStokes - AltLd O/S - 28/Oct/11 with Emily Stokes

Liz Wakelin - AltLd - 26/Oct/11 with Rich Mayfield

Crux felt more like a 6a especially as it was damp
herrettscott - 2nd O/S - 23/Oct/11

6 pitches - climbed with Jon
AmandaJG - 2nd - 17/Oct/11

skiswan - 2nd - 17/Oct/11

Pete_Hamlin - 2nd β - 17/Oct/11

3 pitches of rock-avalanching, ant-infested, polished choss followed by 4 really good pitches. andrew got the luxury of the ridge belay to make up for having to lead the polished chimney (really the only bit deserving of F5+; the rest is about F4+). the descent takes ages along the highly polished uneven rock slide of a tourist route; beach and ice cream at the bottom though. Climbed with Mark & Anna on the other rope.
katherinesydney - AltLd O/S - 12/Oct/11 with andrew funnell

AndyFunnell - AltLd - 12/Oct/11 with katherinesydney

Tried Piratas but backed off 4th pitch as nasty and continued up VV
Marq - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/11 with Anna N

LukeyG - AltLd - Oct/11

P1 Alan, P2 Me etc... P7 & P8 Alan
Rowan Mitchell - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/11 with Alan Murray

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/11

JohnBear - AltLd - 07/Sep/11 with Steve, Pete

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Apr/11

First climb with Ian. John & Sheldon went first. Me P1, P3, P5 & P7. Ian P2(of Direct de UBSA - due to nesting bird) P4, P6 & P8. Shit on three times by birds. Very slow, 8 hours car to car.
hellboundblr - AltLd - 11/Apr/11 with Ian Wilkinson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/11

Substituted the second pitch of Direct de USBA [5] and pitches 4 [f4] and 5 [f5] of Polvos Magicos. 2nd climbed with sac but hauled it on the slippery crux pitch3 and on pitch5. Bryan & Ian W climbed behind. Led pitch1 but mistakengly belayed at left belay intended for Direct de UBSA. Sheldon led P2 up slab of Direct de UBSA to avoid nests on Via path, slab was very thin leading/seconding [cheated & stood on peg/bolt]. Threw in an extra half pitch then to traverse/walk across & belay immediately below Via chimney, inserting gear to protect 2nds. Lots of loose stones there, glad we were only 4 on route. P3 crux was polished as stated by many & with no grip on slab have to haul up on the jammed chockstones. Sheldon led pitch4 of Polvos, loose in places then I led pitch 5 up the corner which has more jugs above than you'd suspect. Belayed 10m below ridge so could haul up sac after Sheldon. Sheldon led to ridge then I led the nice pitch up to belay bolts. Final 2 pitches are a scramble.
john_ni - AltLd - 11/Apr/11 with Sheldon Webb

Mick Riley - 28/Mar/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/11

Did pitch two of Polvos magicos(6a+) by accident oops, it was a good pitch but I was a bit out of my depth with a rucksack on! I know everyone mentions the polished crack on pitch 3 but it really is bad, slipperiest thing I've ever climbed, I'm sure it was easier and more fun years ago but spoils the route a bit now really. Many thanks go out to a German couple we met who give me a drink of beer as I topped out, tasted fantastic and just what I needed!
rgd1977 - Lead - 16/Mar/11

beckybray1 - 2nd - 16/Mar/11

did pitch 2 of Polvos mágicos which made things more "interesting". pitch 3 very polished. rest was lovely. really good day.
jas128 - 2nd β - 23/Feb/11

Hidden - 2nd β - 23/Feb/11

tmawer - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/11 with John

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Feb/11

tom169 - AltLd O/S - 14/Jan/11 with George

btc - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/11 with Bob Workman

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jan/11

RossT - AltLd - 2011 with Guy R

Hidden - 2011

Xmas Day route, blazing sunshine. Bit of polish about (the crux, ha ha) but also enjoy the exposed move up on the 6th(?) pitch before the scrambling starts. Best Xmas ever!
Zoomer - Lead - 25/Dec/10 with Julia Bloomer

Jules 210681 - 2nd - 25/Dec/10 with glenn bloomer

jw231 - 2nd O/S - 15/Dec/10

Bottom 2 pitches poor. Pitch 3 VERY polished. Pitches 4 & 5 excellent.
timcedwards - 2nd - 18/Nov/10 with Andrew Edwards

trad leads 2/4/6
bigdan050 - AltLd - 12/Nov/10 with steve H, steve R

stvredmond - AltLd - 11/Nov/10 with Dan

Could have done without the polished section! Partially bolted but a few wires & cams still useful.
Mike-W-99 - AltLd - 08/Nov/10 with Fiona

Led the odd pitches. Pitch 3 is a polished horror. No idea how I got up this but I never wish to encounter rock like that again. The rest of the climb is lovely and you end up in a stunning position on the ridge.
Fiona Reid - AltLd - 08/Nov/10 with Mike

P1 J. (Did P2 of Direct de UBSA - mistake! very hard and polished) P3 J. P4 M, P5 J (dog). P6 M. P7,8 J simul climbing. Lots of fixed gear take a very light rack only. Extremely tired after taking too much gear and starting around 1pm in winter sun. Steep climb up rubbishy ground got us off to a bad start, still have fun and made the top (and pub) before sunset.
JimBee - AltLd dog - Nov/10 with Matt Ellis

pamvdb17 - 21/Oct/10

Graham Pearson - 2nd dog - 21/Oct/10 with Pam van de Brug

thankfully someone was kind enough to place a bolt as a foothold on the slippery chimney of death (would have been rude not to use it)
melville18 - AltLd rpt - 22/Sep/10 with claire melville

Lead pitches 1, 3 (slippery chimney of death, 5, 6 (sting in the tail) and 8
jacobfinn - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/10 with jjax

led pitches 2, 4 and 7. got horrendously stuck at she slippery chimney on pitch 3 as no chalk on a swelteringly hot day. sweaty palms and polished limestone dont mix. Got sunburned as took us a lot longer than we accounted for.
jjax - Lead - 22/Sep/10 with jason

First three pitches climbed successfully. Went off route on the fourth pitch and had to retreat
gpcomps - Lead dnf - 09/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd - 28/May/10

31770 - Lead O/S - 28/May/10 with Sam Crookshank, Fiona Bangs

Epic enchainment with a route on Toix using public transport and shank's pony.
Shaw Brown - Lead - 15/Apr/10 with Earl Gray Larty

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/10

Lead pitches 1, 3, 5, 6 and 8
chri55ie - AltLd - 12/Apr/10 with Niel Stevens

Crux very polished and no "tat" in situ. Becoming a polished horror!
rogerskews - AltLd - 12/Apr/10 with Martin Coward, Nigel Bond

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 12/Apr/10 with Martin Coward, Roger Skews

Lead all pitches. One very short section of 5/5+ climbing, otherwise very easy going. Bolts are pretty spaced, but not really comparable to VS climbing in my opinion. Nice, relaxing climb, with some nice climbing in pleasent positions.
lrandall - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/10 with Flo

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Mar/10

Had to be recued from the ledge below the 6th pitch.
WRMusall - AltLd dnf - 17/Mar/10 with Stephenie, Derick

toby2000 - Mar/10

Hidden - 2nd - Mar/10

Will Gordon - Lead rpt - Mar/10 with Chris Jose

Will Gordon - Lead rpt - Mar/10 with John Abbot

Lead all except crux pitch, which was very polished. The route was quite vegitated and loose in places, but overall a great day out.
Elsier - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/10 with Mary, Stuart

beautifull sunny day in shorts and teashirt great start to year.
steve2006 - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/10 with Ann Blandford

Justin led pitch 1 & 4, Chips led 5 and I led pitch 2 of "Direct de UBSA" and pitches 3 & 5 of Valencianos
John Roe - AltLd - 14/Nov/09 with Justin (Ratty) Burgoyne, Paul (Chips) Rafferty

dani.harris - 2nd - 11/Nov/09

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Nov/09

whiting.jp - AltLd - 05/Nov/09 with jamesca

Malpractise - Nov/09

2 seconds.
GScot38 - Lead - Nov/09

Obviously a great route but could it not take a varient on the crux to avoid the polish and go up the left crack instead of the right?
richardhopton - AltLd - 21/Oct/09 with d.endicott1

Alt leads with Si, I led even pitches. Top of pitch 5 over the ridge to Calpe the most memorable climd so far! The walk along the ridge to start pitch 6 almost as memorable.
steveadkinson - AltLd O/S - 08/May/09 with Si & Simmo

Mark Fairhurst - AltLd O/S - 02/May/09

jacoob81 - AltLd O/S - May/09

Not the classic route I was expecting, the first 3 pitches are very exposed to any rockfall from seagulls or anyone above you, lots of rocks/stones on all the ledges for a rope to dislodge. Added a short pitch - wander between pitch 2&3 as the slope was full of rocks and had climbers below. Pitch 3 was very much out of place, bit of a polished grunt (my holiday bug did kick in on this pitch though). We finished up Polvos Mágicos after this, and the following 2 pitches are fantastic, and my wife prefered them to following Vía Valencianos (she's done it before). For me they were some of the best multi-pitches I've done in the Costa Blanca, and would balance the 3rd pitch out to give a good VS.
craig h - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/09 with Janet Hannah

matty123 - AltLd rpt - 09/Apr/09 with Tom Breakell

RobSteere - Lead O/S - Apr/09 with Jason

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Feb/09

ldadams - Lead O/S - Feb/09 with Tor Pitts

barrington1978 - Feb/09

2 hours 33 minutes. Straight after doing Diedro UBSA in the morning. Pitch 1 - Dave; Pitch 2 - Hol; Pitch 3 - Dave; Pitch 4 - Hol; Pitch 5 - Dave; Pitch 6 - Hol; Pitch 7 - Dave; Pitch 8 - Dave.
DavidR - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/09 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 02/Jan/09

sdht - 2009

chris.mac - 2009 with gordon

Abbed off after crux pitch as one of the students was struggling, alot!
eldre070 - Lead dnf - 25/Nov/08 with 2 students

The classic of the crag, mega 45m slab pitch. Crux is real pollished at 5+, rest of climb pure luxury.
Tenko - AltLd - 24/Nov/08 with Wayne Elliott

Tenko - AltLd - 24/Nov/08

climbingxcat - AltLd - Nov/08 with Brian

tomcoomber - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/08 with Dan Swift

mr.alex - 2nd - Oct/08 with Rich Mayfield

melville18 - Lead O/S - Sep/08 with claire melville

Ken Taylor - AltLd - 26/Apr/08 with Andy Chadwick

Start was pants. Slab was great despite being dive bombed by the locals!
Conan - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/08 with Lindsay

Rob Hirst - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/08 with Mark Ross

RichardMc - AltLd - 30/Mar/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/08

Will Gordon - AltLd O/S - Mar/08 with Steve Baker

Will Gordon - AltLd O/S - Mar/08 with Steve Baker, Novice

8 pitch climb 35m, 36m, 30m, 20m, 44m, 30m, 20m 30m. Start is a bit of an overgrown scramble. Mid section has a difficult crux followed by impressive slabs. Great climb and a great day out. Easy walk off. A 'must do' climb.
Johnny B Diggerman - 2nd O/S - 08/Feb/08 with Paul G

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jan/08

A lovely day out. We did the direct variation up the thin but well-protected slab above P1 which involved some falling off and swearing, not necessarily in that order. 5+? 6a+ more like. Got off the Hill in time for beers at the Spanish / Brit bar by the marina. Here tapas = Walkers Salt and Vinegar crisps... lovely.
Peter Metcalfe - AltLd - 28/Jan/08 with Jenn Burt

Shaw lead most of it!
net - AltLd - 25/Jan/08 with Shaw Brown

Shaw Brown - AltLd - 25/Jan/08 with annette

Hidden - 2008

Phil PBC - 2008

I lead even-numbered pitches
lyneux - AltLd O/S - 25/Nov/07 with Chris Glasson

haydng - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/07 with Rachel

ioboy - AltLd - 07/Nov/07 with Dave

Jon Pilling - Lead β - Jun/07 with Giles Penn

kitkat78 - AltLd - 31/May/07 with Sarah C

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/May/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/07

I lead P1, Ross lead P2, then it started raining and Ross dropped his belay device down the face so we decided to retreat. We abseiled back down (lovely abseil down slab!) in the rain and got bombarded by angry seagulls. A fun morning!
HamishD - Lead dnf - Apr/07 with Ross Overhead

roverhead - 2nd dnf - Apr/07 with Hamish Dunn

and Graham Meigh. Climbed pitch 2 of Polvos magicos at 6a+.
Chesh - AltLd - 05/Mar/07 with Phil B

Hidden - Solo - Mar/07

steve mee - AltLd - 24/Feb/07 with Mike Frith

Weedyskid - 2nd O/S - Feb/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/07

SteveM - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/07 with Corky

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jan/07

auld al - AltLd O/S - Jan/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Dec/06

What a horrible shiney crux pitch. Slab and view over ridge great!
BruceW - AltLd O/S - 28/Dec/06 with Becca

jl - Lead O/S - 16/Dec/06 with Penny

pennyb - 2nd O/S - 16/Dec/06 with Jon

Instructing on Tarquin's Exped 2 x students
John HW - Lead O/S - Dec/06 with 2 x Students

featuresforfeet - AltLd O/S - 26/Nov/06 with Angel

Sylvi - AltLd - 16/Nov/06 with Andy L

rilem - 01/Nov/06

The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/06 with John Nesbitt

andy mcc - Lead - Sep/06 with Arifa Chakera, Jason King & Kirsty Hogg

DerwentDiluted - Lead - 07/Aug/06 with Nicola Pettit

Huw P1,3,5,7+8; Tim P2,4,6
timstyles - AltLd O/S - 11/May/06 with Huw Howells

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Apr/06

Hidden - Apr/06

antroy - AltLd - 23/Mar/06

Allan Young - AltLd dog - 20/Mar/06 with Liz Kay

Various types of wildlife encountered
Gustav - AltLd O/S - Mar/06 with Rich H

WRMusall - AltLd - 18/Jan/06 with Chris R and Gary

Hidden - 2nd β - Jan/06

mikelaing - 2006

Hidden - 2006

dfbpdave - AltLd - 2006

steve mee - AltLd - 08/Dec/05 with Mich Mee

Adrian Daniels - AltLd - 30/Sep/05 with Steve Webster

A Downing - Lead O/S - Sep/05 with Ben Monkton

Hidden - AltLd - 20/May/05

Would get HS 4+ if not for the horrendously polished crack. Homicidal gulls can make life interesting.
Peter Metcalfe - AltLd - 25/Apr/05 with David Hudson

Stuart Macfarlane - AltLd - 11/Apr/05 with John D

Great route, wouldn't recomend it though as the crux is extremely dangerous
timharrison - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/05 with Dominic Holdem

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/05

matty123 - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/05 with Fred Salt

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/05

WRMusall - 2nd - 16/Jan/05 with Shaun Burton

Hidden - 2005

tapley - Lead - 26/Nov/04 with Alison Tapley

Hidden - Lead - 24/Oct/04

Celia Watson - 2nd - 24/Oct/04 with stuart watson

I led 1st, 3rd, 5th & 7th(Scramble) pitches.
Phil West - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/04 with Shaun Walby

shaun walby - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/04 with Phil West

Chased off by ferocious seagulls. The excellent sushi restaurant nearby made up for it though.
Katex - AltLd dnf - Jun/04 with Simon Edwards

Jason Gotel - Lead - May/04 with Pippa Lansdown

Hidden - 2004

HansStuttgart - 2004

TimPerkin - AltLd O/S - 28/Nov/03 with Mark Perkin

hayleylouise - 2nd - 16/Sep/03 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/03

dave o - Lead O/S - Mar/03 with Julia H

Awesome day out- may have gone slightly off route once or twice. A mini adventure!
Matt Rowat - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/03 with owen

Goody - 2nd O/S - 24/Feb/03 with Jon Edwards, Jim Dewhurst

Ander - AltLd - 26/Jan/03 with Kev

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2003

Hidden - 2003

dan gibson - Lead O/S - Dec/02 with karing

Allan Young - AltLd O/S - 30/Oct/02 with Andrew Robinson

MikeC59 - 2nd - 22/May/02

chrishedgehog - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/02 with Joe Thompson

Howard J - Lead rpt - 28/Feb/02 with Steve Astley

Climbed first 3 pitches, got lost on 4th pitch
WRMusall - AltLd dnf - 17/Feb/02

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Dec/01

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/01

John Brayshaw - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/01 with Chris

Aided the shiny crux pitch
Simon Caldwell - AltLd rpt - 2001 with Carmen and Mike

We pulled on the gear in the sweaty crack (who doesn't?)
Howard J - AltLd dog - 02/Mar/00 with Julie Wassell

Simon Caldwell - AltLd O/S - 31/Jan/00 with Ian A and Mike

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Dec/99

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Nov/99

Nigel R Lewis - AltLd - 23/Mar/99 with Pete Bennett

Howard J - 2nd - 24/Feb/99 with Paul Barker

Hidden - 1999

tjekel - 1999

Hidden - Lead - 1999

Failed on the crux pitch 3. Retreated to Calpe for beer.
Richard Alderton - AltLd dnf - 20/Dec/98 with Travis

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Nov/98

nige pacer - AltLd O/S - Apr/98

dickypips - AltLd - Feb/98 with john richards

stugreen75 - AltLd O/S - 1998 with The Youth

chris sm - AltLd O/S - Dec/97 with Nick Wheeler

steve prior - Lead - Jan/97 with Roz C

Hidden - 1997

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/96

I got the polished crack pitch
EddieA - AltLd O/S - Nov/95 with Simon W

Neil Conway - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/95 with Steve Hardy

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/95

Yourlead - Lead - Oct/94 with Ric Gregory

Steve led slab pitch of UBSA direct. Long hot day, but great positions.
Scott McRae - AltLd O/S - Apr/94 with Steve Lucas

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Nov/93

lithos - AltLd - Mar/92

Chris Ellis - AltLd O/S - 15/Dec/91 with Ernie Horrocks, Andy Barker

1hr 45mins
Chris Craggs - Lead - May/88 with Sherri Davy

Hidden - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
zebidee, BenedictIEP, ravedave1806, ravedave1806, RobertFeakin, badgerspoke, Alan100, Alan100, Strange little creature, petellis

Total votes cast 84
hard 6a0 of 43
6a0 of 43
easy 6a3 of 43
hard 5c20 of 43
5c10 of 43
easy 5c9 of 43
hard 5a1 of 43
5a0 of 43
easy 5a0 of 43
3 Stars6 of 41
2 Stars21 of 41
1 Star10 of 41
0 Stars3 of 41
Bag of .....1 of 41
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat