Rockfax Description
E1. A neat direct version of Valencianos with a great line. Escape onto Valencianos is an option at several points. Take a rack.1) 3, 35m. Pitch 1 of Valencianos.2) 6a+, 25m. The long slippery corner has the crux at the top.3) 5+, 30m. Pitch 3 of Valencianos.4) 4, 20m. Meander up easy ground to gain the right edge of the upper slab, beneath the steeper headwall. Belay in a recess.5) 5, 30m. Follow the pleasant corner above to the main ridge.6) 4, 20m. Climb a groove then move left to easy ground.7) & 8) 50m. The last two pitches of Valencianos. © Rockfax
FA. Pablo Rosa, Miguel Devesa, Roy de Valera 1960s 1965.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Ewan | 17 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: This is a nice alternative to Valencianos. The second pitch has only a couple of moves at 6a+ near the top, but can be avoided by escaping onto Valencianos. The corner is a nice alternative to the slab, and avoides the polish. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: This is a nice alternative to Valencianos. The second pitch has only a couple of moves at 6a+ near the top, but can be avoided by escaping onto Valencianos. The corner is a nice alternative to the slab, and avoides the polish. |
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Grade: 6a+ ***
(Sierra de Toix)