Polvos mágicos** 6a+
[Penon de Fach, 3 kb]210m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
E1. A neat direct version of Valencianos with a great line. Escape onto Valencianos is an option at several points. Take a rack.
1) 3, 35m. Pitch 1 of Valencianos.
2) 6a+, 25m. The long slippery corner has the crux at the top.
3) 5+, 30m. Pitch 3 of Valencianos.
4) 4, 20m. Meander up easy ground to gain the right edge of the upper slab, beneath the steeper headwall. Belay in a recess.
5) 5, 30m. Follow the pleasant corner above to the main ridge.
6) 4, 20m. Climb a groove then move left to easy ground.
7) & 8) 50m. The last two pitches of Valencianos. © ROCKFAX


FA. Pablo Rosa, Miguel Devesa, Roy de Valera 1960s 1965

Photo: Penon de Fach © Trangia
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 43 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Did via P3 of Lopez de Sancho (6b) and P4 Los Miserables (6b). JJ's screwgate got stuck on P4 chains so had to abseil back down and cut the sling with a shoe lace. Good day out if not a little eventful.
Dan Hostford - Lead O/S - 19/Dec/14 with JJ

Took a couple of falls on pitch 2, lowered out and finally got it. Felt sustained E1 5b for the last third, no harder than 6a+ though. Fifth pitch is a stunner, simple at f5 but pretty sustained but the holds keep coming. Leading a novice on Ex Spanrock.
Zoomer - Lead G/U - 25/Nov/14 with A Student

Rest on pitch 3, small slip on polished pitch 4. Misses third star due to polish.
tom0french - AltLd dog - 25/Nov/14

I took pitch 2 (crux) and had a stupid foot slip on the glass like slab on the left.
Jonny Nick - AltLd dog - 29/Oct/14

natlavender - Sep/14 with Toby Ernster

spidermonkey09 - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/14 with Jack Knight

Jack93 - AltLd dog - 25/Apr/14 with Jim Hulbert

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Dec/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Dec/13

Awesome day out. Topping out the 5+ pitch to that amazing view is really good. Happy to lead the 6a+ pitch but shame about the fall. Thoroughly unconvinced by the E1 grade which is a shame as once I was up there couldn't really have wussed out.
Maddie - AltLd dog - 18/Dec/13 with remus

Lead pitches 3 & 6
pimpy - AltLd - 05/Dec/13 with Pete A, Graham

2nd pitch has polished slab and sustained crack climbing, mistakenly carried on a 6b on 3rd pitch and abseiled back, 5th pitch has some delightful climbing , deserves 3*
zadurrani - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/13

Second and third pitch! Mixed in with via valencianos
SHONAJONES - 2nd - 10/Nov/13 with Zaheer

Running_Board - Lead - 08/Nov/13

ukinio - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/13

6b!
ashtond6 - Lead - 24/Dec/12

Very slippery but great. L1 3º, L2 6b, L3 6a, L4 4º. Beware with loose rocks. I recomend taking the two worthwhile pitches of Virginia Diez to get the top.
Biggo - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Juan-Sol, Marta, Braulio, Berta

second pitch is bolted but beware of the slippy footholds.
steve2006 - Lead dog - 10/Feb/12 with david moore(13)

we continued up the face above the second pitch. 6a+ or 6b? Felt hard.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 30/Dec/11 with Anette

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Dec/11

chiverstom - Lead O/S - 30/Dec/10 with Alice

ambrooker - 2nd O/S - 30/Dec/10 with Tom

Hidden - AltLd dog - 05/Nov/09

whiting.jp - AltLd - 05/Nov/09 with jamesca

Mark Fairhurst - AltLd O/S - 02/May/09

Missed out pitch 2, but the 5th pitch is stunning and would be worth 3 stars on its own. The lower 3 pitches are very prone to rock fall even from seagulls!
craig h - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/09 with Janet Hannah

sdht - 2009

Hidden - AltLd dog - 16/Feb/08

pauelo - AltLd dog - 26/Nov/06 with Carles Solís, Miguelón

Injured shoulder
carriegold - 2nd dog - 07/Apr/05

Hidden - 2004

dan gibson - Lead O/S - Dec/02 with karing

chrishedgehog - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/02 with Joe Thompson

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Dec/00

alpinismo.uk - AltLd - 2000

Hidden - AltLd - 1999

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Nov/98

Hidden - AltLd - 1998

Shaw Brown - AltLd - 13/Mar/97 with cliff brown

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Dec/96

kevp - Lead O/S - Dec/96 with Welbeck

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/95

Would be more than 2* if it weren't so polished
dsgibson - AltLd O/S - Mar/93

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
HumphreyJ20, Valentino, badgerspoke

Voting
Total votes cast 28
hard 6b0 of 14
6b0 of 14
easy 6b2 of 14
hard 6a+7 of 14
6a+5 of 14
easy 6a+0 of 14
hard 6a0 of 14
6a0 of 14
easy 6a0 of 14
3 Stars2 of 14
2 Stars9 of 14
1 Star2 of 14
0 Stars0 of 14
Bag of .....1 of 14
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