Polvos mágicos* 6a+
[ Polvos Magicos Penon de Ifach, 3 kb]210m, 8 pitches. A direct version of Valencianos. It is possible to escape onto Valencianos at several points on the route should the going get too tough. Take a full rack of gear. 1) 2+, 35m. Pitch 1 of Valencianos. 2) 6a+, 25m. Climb the sustained and slippery corner direct. The final section is the hardest. 3) 5+, 30m. Pitch 3 of Valencianos. 4) 4, 20m. Meander up easy ground to gain the right edge of the upper slab, beneath the steeper headwall. Belay in a recess. 5) 5, 30m. Follow the pleasant corner above to the ridge. 6) 4, 20m. Climb a groove to the ridge and then move left to easy ground. 7) & 8) 50m. The last two pitches of Valencianos. © ROCKFAX
FA. Pablo Rosa, Miguel Devesa, Roy de Valera 1960s 1965

Photo: Polvos Magicos Penon de Ifach © SHONAJONES
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 40 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Took a couple of falls on pitch 2, lowered out and finally got it. Felt sustained E1 5b for the last third, no harder than 6a+ though. Fifth pitch is a stunner, simple at f5 but pretty sustained but the holds keep coming. Leading a novice on Ex Spanrock.
Zoomer - Lead G/U - 25/Nov/14 with A Student

Rest on pitch 3, small slip on polished pitch 4. Misses third star due to polish.
tom0french - AltLd dog - 25/Nov/14

spidermonkey09 - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/14 with Jack Knight

Jack93 - AltLd dog - 25/Apr/14 with Jim Hulbert

I took pitch 2 (crux) and had a stupid foot slip on the glass like slab on the left.
Jonny Nick - AltLd dog - 2014

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Dec/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Dec/13

Awesome day out. Topping out the 5+ pitch to that amazing view is really good. Happy to lead the 6a+ pitch but shame about the fall. Thoroughly unconvinced by the E1 grade which is a shame as once I was up there couldn't really have wussed out.
Maddie - AltLd dog - 18/Dec/13 with remus

Lead pitches 3 & 6
pimpy - AltLd - 05/Dec/13 with Pete A, Graham

2nd pitch has polished slab and sustained crack climbing, mistakenly carried on a 6b on 3rd pitch and abseiled back, 5th pitch has some delightful climbing , deserves 3*
zadurrani - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/13

Second and third pitch! Mixed in with via valencianos
SHONAJONES - 2nd - 10/Nov/13 with Zaheer

Running_Board - Lead - 08/Nov/13

ukinio - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/13

6b!
ashtond6 - Lead - 24/Dec/12

Very slippery but great. L1 3, L2 6b, L3 6a, L4 4. Beware with loose rocks. I recomend taking the two worthwhile pitches of Virginia Diez to get the top.
Biggo - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Juan-Sol, Marta, Braulio, Berta

second pitch is bolted but beware of the slippy footholds.
steve2006 - Lead dog - 10/Feb/12 with david moore(13)

we continued up the face above the second pitch. 6a+ or 6b? Felt hard.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 30/Dec/11 with Anette

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Dec/11

chiverstom - Lead O/S - 30/Dec/10 with Alice

ambrooker - 2nd O/S - 30/Dec/10 with Tom

Hidden - AltLd dog - 05/Nov/09

whiting.jp - AltLd - 05/Nov/09 with jamesca

Mark Fairhurst - AltLd O/S - 02/May/09

Missed out pitch 2, but the 5th pitch is stunning and would be worth 3 stars on its own. The lower 3 pitches are very prone to rock fall even from seagulls!
craig h - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/09 with Janet Hannah

sdht - 2009

Hidden - AltLd dog - 16/Feb/08

pauelo - AltLd dog - 26/Nov/06 with Carles Solís, Miguelón

Injured shoulder
carriegold - 2nd dog - 07/Apr/05

Hidden - 2004

dan gibson - Lead O/S - Dec/02 with karing

chrishedgehog - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/02 with Joe Thompson

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Dec/00

Hidden - AltLd - 1999

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Nov/98

Hidden - AltLd - 1998

Shaw Brown - AltLd - 13/Mar/97 with cliff brown

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Dec/96

kevp - Lead O/S - Dec/96 with Welbeck

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/95

Would be more than 2* if it weren't so polished
dsgibson - AltLd O/S - Mar/93

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
HumphreyJ20, Valentino, badgerspoke

Voting
Total votes cast 28
hard 6b0 of 14
6b0 of 14
easy 6b2 of 14
hard 6a+7 of 14
6a+5 of 14
easy 6a+0 of 14
hard 6a0 of 14
6a0 of 14
easy 6a0 of 14
3 Stars2 of 14
2 Stars9 of 14
1 Star2 of 14
0 Stars0 of 14
Bag of .....1 of 14
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